Author Topic: DualShock 4 Controller PCB scans (Read 375774 times)

stratoside · « **Reply #60 on:** July 07, 2016, 02:43:25 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 10, 2016, 05:12:09 PM

Yes and No.

You'll need to first gently remove the coating from the contacts first to expose the copper pad, then you can solder to it.

The DS4 uses 3 different button configurations also, so you'll need to wire up all of your buttons accordingly and install a couple of Resistors to take the place of the existing Daughter boards that will no longer be installed.

The D-pad, X, O, [ ] and /\ buttons all use Ground for their common. Also the PS, Touchpad, Share and Option buttons use Ground for common.

The L1, R1, L3 and R3 buttons all use 3.2v as the common.

The L2 and R2 are where it gets to be a little more work. First you'll need to install a Pull-Up Resistor from 3.2v to the L2 and R2 lines, one for each side. The value is ~7.5k, but 10k will work just as well in this case. Then you'll connect your new L2 and R2 buttons wires to the L2/2L spots for L2, and R2/2R spots for R2.

If you have the room, just leave the Sticks installed on the board, as you don't want to tear up any traces there and have that mess to deal with.

o wow, sorry for asking redundant questions, just join the forum
thanks for the explanation once again lol

Roblane · « **Reply #61 on:** July 26, 2016, 11:00:14 AM »

Hi guys, new to all of this so any help is greatly appreciated!

Basically started work on my JDM 030 board and want to add 2 back buttons for X and O. Just wondered where i solder my the ground is for X and O on the JDM 030.

Thanks a bunch!

RDC · « **Reply #62 on:** July 26, 2016, 01:52:21 PM »

Any ground will work. Use one of the mounting lugs for the sticks.

Roblane · « **Reply #63 on:** July 27, 2016, 03:46:37 AM »

Okay thanks but which ground specifically? I dont know where any of the grounds are

RDC · « **Reply #64 on:** July 27, 2016, 04:56:40 AM »

Ground is ground, there are no multiple grounds in the controller. Battery negative, USB shield, and again the mounting lugs for the sticks, they're all connected and are all ground. The very first page of this thread, Reply #20, shows what and where they are.

Roblane · « **Reply #65 on:** July 27, 2016, 07:13:59 AM »

Thanks for the reply, ive just been trying to solder the X and O points and exposed the copper pads and everything. But the solder wouldnt stick to the points and everytime i tried to solder a waxy type product was forming on the top of the PCB board. Any idea if i have scratched off to much of the copper?

http://tinypic.com/r/2m45bat/9

RDC · « **Reply #66 on:** July 27, 2016, 12:46:36 PM »

Can't really tell from that pic, but the ring for the X via looks gone to me, while the one for O looks alright.

You may want to consider using a set of the Simple Flex that I designed for that version of board, as it just takes out any soldering to the PCB itself. https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43753.0.html

jerkwagon · « **Reply #67 on:** November 15, 2016, 11:48:55 PM »

Is there anyway to savalge this controller? I guess i didnt expose it properly and form what i read now theres a ground all around? i tried to expose tri and X. Now i neither work. please let me know if you have any tips? i dont care to get the actual buttons to work, i just want to be able to install my own switches..

RDC · « **Reply #68 on:** November 16, 2016, 05:23:53 AM »

If the buttons are acting pressed all of the time, then they are shorted and there is some hope, but I'd forget all about getting any alternate buttons working again until you can get the thing to just work normally. As deep as some of that scraping looks, I'd be surprised if you haven't torn into the inner layers and possibly wrecked it.

Take some flux and solder braid and clean all of that up first, then see if you can even get it working normally. If any of the buttons are still dead, then you have damaged them internally and will have to try tracing out the lines to find spots farther back to use for the alternate ones. I have not done that, so no idea where they would be or if they are even accessible since the controller has blind vias. This is why I designed the SFX, so that kind of thing there would never happen or even need to be done to the controller. https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43753.0.html

jerkwagon · « **Reply #69 on:** November 16, 2016, 09:53:51 AM »

THanks, i am actually an idiot for doing this.. and i made it worst. I figured since i bridged the ground, i would take my toon and circle around the contact so nothing would be touching it.. needless to say its toasted..

So i am guessing you can only expose the tiny dot and not beyond the circle around the dot? there for it would mess things up..

You little thing you made says no soldering needed.. but how come in your photo, you Mobo looks like its been soldered a ton?

RDC · « **Reply #70 on:** November 16, 2016, 11:26:56 AM »

Yeah, you're at least 2 or 3 layers deep into that board now.

Because I didn't bother to clean the flux from the PCB for those pics. That PCB was first used to make scans of the board, hence the resoldering around the sticks, and then it was used to test my RemappeD out on, hence the soldering around the Vias, and since I didn't have the SFX here yet, I had to solder everything to it, which was done correctly and why that controller still works to this day - http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/miniDSm4pper/Beta1_zpsnpoyezsi.jpg

It's only the Via that needs to be prepped. The actual dead center of it is noting, that's a hole, it's the tiny ring around that hole that you remove the mask (green coating) from to expose the copper underneath to solder to.

The SFX requires no soldering to install, but then you do have to solder your wire for your new buttons to it. But then you have nice large pads that are labeled to solder to, there's no touching the controller board at all with the X-acto blade or an iron.

jerkwagon · « **Reply #71 on:** November 16, 2016, 01:56:56 PM »

@rdc, do you have a photo showing the points i can solder so i can remap my X, /\ to say Up and Left? (i plan on doing the remapping in the playstation) i just need to move the Up and Left to the new buttons.

RDC · « **Reply #72 on:** November 16, 2016, 02:16:22 PM »

That information is already in this thread - https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43542.msg326641.html#msg326641 all you have to do is flip the board over and the Vias are right there in the same spots.

If you need the spots for the damaged ones on your board, I've no idea where they are as I have not traced the entire board out, as you literally have to destroy one of these things now to figure out where everything goes.

jerkwagon · « **Reply #73 on:** November 16, 2016, 05:59:59 PM »

what about from the opposite side? i think if i use this side, the rest of the buttons wont make contacts on the plastic ribbon..

RDC · « **Reply #74 on:** November 16, 2016, 06:22:27 PM »

That's why I said "flip the board over".

jerkwagon · « **Reply #75 on:** November 17, 2016, 03:36:14 PM »

So Im not sure if this relevant to this thread but i thought i would post something that i have done that might help others. This might work on X,O, [], /\ but i decided to use it on U,D,L,R and it works great so you just need to bind your keys on the PS4. Yes a pain in the butt, but works.

My method was glue the wire to the side of the dpad 1st, then press the freyed wire on the contact, Add a tiny amount of glue, then press on the glue with your fingers, It might take a few tries, then just test the contact, press the other end of the wire on a ground. Bingo..

moyherrera · « **Reply #76 on:** December 05, 2016, 05:43:59 PM »

hi guys i have a question the news model of the ps4 controller JDM-040 (1-981-330-31) do y'all know the locations for the X, O square and triangle, i didn't see it on the pics and I'm not sure if y'all know the locations or not just wondering. i bought the new and wanted to remap the x and o on it.
thank you

RDC · « **Reply #77 on:** December 05, 2016, 06:20:28 PM »

I have not looked into tracing out the JDM-040, it's on the list to eventually get around to, but it was easier to just make the SFX for it so the controller doesn't need to be soldered on at all. https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44001.0.html

Macs_wrx · « **Reply #78 on:** December 09, 2016, 06:16:35 AM »

Hi, have read through all pages of this and am very impressed

I was just wondering if you would happen to know if the main board is totally destroyed by getting charged with phone fast chargers ? I have received all 3 versions of controllers and all with the same problem of no light on with ps button pressed or when use the usb cable to ps4 console. I have changed batteries and charger ports and ribbons but still nothing from controllers. Totally dead. If there was any other suggestion you may have I'd be very grateful. Thanks

jdjlr · « **Reply #79 on:** January 10, 2017, 10:40:52 PM »

Is there any chance to know which version of JDM and JDS the control has without disassemble? Maybe the serial on the back of the controller or something?

RDC · « **Reply #80 on:** January 11, 2017, 01:46:20 AM »

Possibly, though I haven't been keeping any track at all of those numbers on the back. The model number is always the same, just like the DS3 days, so that one is useless for telling what it may be. You would also need the very first one at every stage they changed it, so you knew the exact numbers, or there would still be overlap with what you were getting.

If you're planning on doing anything to it internally, then you'll be taking it apart anyway, and then you'll know what it is for sure.

jdjlr · « **Reply #81 on:** January 11, 2017, 07:39:26 AM »

Quote from: RDC on January 11, 2017, 01:46:20 AM

Possibly, though I haven't been keeping any track at all of those numbers on the back. The model number is always the same, just like the DS3 days, so that one is useless for telling what it may be. You would also need the very first one at every stage they changed it, so you knew the exact numbers, or there would still be overlap with what you were getting.

If you're planning on doing anything to it internally, then you'll be taking it apart anyway, and then you'll know what it is for sure.

I want to buy a case for the controller, but it only fits on JDM-001 with JDS-001... Maybe the controller with a serial starting in 1?

RDC · « **Reply #82 on:** January 11, 2017, 08:17:58 AM »

For a case it wouldn't make any difference what the controller version was, now for a new shell it would. Every controller I have here, from -001 thru -030, all have a serial that start with a 1, so that's not going to help you.

If you are looking to get a new shell for your controller, then again, you're going to have to take the thing apart anyway, so just do that and then you'll know what version it is.

jdjlr · « **Reply #83 on:** January 11, 2017, 09:48:15 AM »

Quote from: RDC on January 11, 2017, 08:17:58 AM

For a case it wouldn't make any difference what the controller version was, now for a new shell it would. Every controller I have here, from -001 thru -030, all have a serial that start with a 1, so that's not going to help you.

If you are looking to get a new shell for your controller, then again, you're going to have to take the thing apart anyway, so just do that and then you'll know what version it is.

Yeah, actually what i want is the shell case. Maybe i should buy a controller with the black d-pad and triggers, those are from the first Gen...

shield4peace · « **Reply #84 on:** January 28, 2017, 08:11:46 PM »

hello I have a little problem, I lifted a resistance and lost it, can someone send me its value please? Thanks in advance

EDIT: The push button keep pressed once i press it, i think the resistance is the problem

RDC · « **Reply #85 on:** January 28, 2017, 09:19:01 PM »

It's a Pull-Down Resistor for the R3 button line, so yes if it is missing that will cause an issue. It's a 47k, 0201 SMT Resistor. You can install a 1/4w or 1/8w thru hole on the bottom side of the board much easier for the fix. Just solder one lead of the Resistor to either of the R3 button leads, then the other lead to ground. See this post for the solder locations, you'd install the 47k between either of the R spots and any of the O or - spots. Just make sure it stays out of the way so the braces in the shell don't hit it.

https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43542.msg326467.html#msg326467

kempie1234 · « **Reply #86 on:** February 16, 2017, 08:07:07 AM »

https://www.mediafire.com/?shpbv0s2cj1l3ah
Hello,

My ps4 says always that the battery of my controller is empty. i opened my controller and i saw the lowest resistor in the circle was missing. I thought it was a 100k 0402 resistor, so i placed a 100k resistor there. But when there is a 100k resistor my ps4 thinks that my battery is always full (3 stripes). I don't understand it, does anybody know which value is correct or does anybody know how i can solve my problem...

I hope someone can help me

Kind regards,

Eric

RDC · « **Reply #87 on:** February 16, 2017, 03:34:07 PM »

Hey Eric,

Both of those Resistors in that circle there are 0402, 150k, 1% tolerance or better. They make up a voltage divider for U1 to monitor the battery voltage, so they need to be the correct values.

kempie1234 · « **Reply #88 on:** February 16, 2017, 11:42:27 PM »

Thnx for your answer!

I have ordered new resistors and i will let you know if it works. Only thing, there are 3 components in the circle, 2 resistors and 1 capacitor or? which one is the resistor and which one the other one.

Thnx!

RDC · « **Reply #89 on:** February 17, 2017, 02:06:55 AM »

I know there are 3 components there, but you only asked about the value of the one in the bottom of that circled group, and that's a 150k Resistor. The middle one is a Cap, the top one is the second Resistor that makes up the divider and the Cap is just a decoupler for the divider.

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Author Topic: DualShock 4 Controller PCB scans (Read 375774 times)