Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 219877 times)

RDC · « **on:** August 13, 2016, 12:25:35 PM »

Here's the XB1s controller, which has a few changes done to her. It's still a CG layout, but they have ditched one of the board to board connectors and used a 16bit I2C IO Port Expander for most of the Digital functions now. That has the benefit of only needing 3 connections, instead of the 13 that it did before, so they can use just 1 connector. There is also a cable for an on board RF antenna that goes to the MCU/RF board.

The MCU board has some changes as well. The Triggers are still the Hall sensor type, but the MCU and RF module have been combined into a single PCB that is mounted to the main board. The MCU/RF board also has it's own antenna.

1708 BUTTON/POWER BOARD TOP

1708 BUTTON/POWER BOARD BOTTOM

1708 MCU BOARD TOP

1708 MCU BOARD BOTTOM

1708 SOC BOARD TOP (Shield (optional) and Antenna removed)

1708 SOC BOARD BOTTOM

J1/J5 Connector Pinout

1 - 3.5v (Rumble V+)
2 - GU (thru D27) Only Guide will work if J1/J5 pin 2 is used for new/alternate Guide button. Use Cathode side of D27 on Power/Button board or controller will not power on when it's pressed.
3 - V+ (3v Wired), (Battery Voltage Wireless)
4 - 3.3v
5 - SCL
6 - LED
7 - SDA
8 - D+ USB
9 - POWER OK / SHUTDOWN / ~RESET
10 - D- USB
11 - PnC
12 - 5v USB
13 - GND
14 - GND

TEST POINTS on BUTTON/POWER Board (some)

FT4 - IO Exp, P0_6

TP13 - 5v USB (also TP38)
TP14 - DR
TP15 - DL
TP16 - DU
TP17 - DD
TP18 - SY
TP19 - LB
TP20 - RB
TP21 - A
TP22 - X
TP23 - Y
TP24 - MN
TP25 - VW
TP26 - IO Exp, P1_6
TP27 - PNC DETECTION
TP28 - LED

TP30 - SDA
TP31 - SCL

TP34 - V+ (3v Wired), (Battery Voltage Wireless)
TP35 - 3.3v (POWER OK / SHUTDOWN / ~RESET)
TP36 - 3.5v (Rumble V+)
TP37 - 3.5v (LED Anode side, thru R5 80 ohm)
TP38 - 5v USB (also TP13)

TEST POINTS on MCU Board (some)

TP1 - D-
TP2 - D+
TP3 -
TP4 -
TP5 - 5v USB

TP7 - 3.5v (Rumble V+)

TP9 - 3.3v

TP14 -

TP16 -

TP21 - GND
TP22 - GND

TP24 - GND

TP26 - GND
TP27 - LT RUMBLE+
TP28 - HEAVY RUMBLE+
TP29 - RT RUMBLE+
TP30 - LIGHT RUMBLE+

TP32 - SDA2 (Top TP)
TP32 - SCL2 (BOTTOM TP)
TP33 - SDA
TP34 - SCL
TP35 - POK
TP36 - 1.8v ENABLE

TP41 - B (thru 100ohm)
TP42 - LSC (thru 33ohm)
TP43 - RSC (thru 33 ohm)
TP44 -

TP49 - TRIGGER VCC
TP50 - TRIGGER VCC

TP54 -

TP63 - LSY
TP64 - LSX
TP65 - RSY
TP66 - RSX
TP67 - RT
TP68 - LT
TP69 - SW4 (Not Installed)

TP71 -
TP72 -

TP103 - AN+

My Schematic* of the Button/Power Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201708%20TOP%20BOARD.pdf

NOTE: The MCU board and SOC board are technically 1 unit, but they will have separate schematics here. The MCU board is the larger one that has the Sticks on it. The SOC board is the smaller one that is soldered onto the MCU board, but is in fact the MCU board because the MCU is on it. I know, it makes about as much sense as a picture of flowers, just deal with it.

My Schematic* of the MCU Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1708/XB1%201708%20BOTTOM%20BOARD.pdf

My Schematic* of the SOC Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1708/XB1%201708%20SOC_EARLY_VERSION_1.pdf

SOC Board Designators TOP - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1708/1708_SOC_TOP_DESIGNATORS.jpg
BOTTOM - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1708/1708_SOC_BOTTOM_DESIGNATORS.jpg

SOC Board Pinout - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1708/1708_SOC.txt

* Information will be updated when/if I get them scoped and/or figured out.

IO EXPANDER (U4 on Power Board, PCAL6416A)

Any familiar with the I2C protocol will recognize this. It's the Clock and Data to/from the IO Expander, and it's sampled every 8ms or at 124Hz, which is over 120 times per second, so it's not going to miss a button press made by any human. It first sends a Write Command 0x42, followed by the Data 0x00, then it sends a Read Command 0x43, which is followed by all of the buttons and PnC cable status. 1 for off, 0 for on. Data is sent MSB first in two 8 bit configurations, with 3 of the 16 IO not being used.

The order of bits 76543210 76543210 correspond to the buttons, MN, NU (FT4), LB, RB, Y, PnC, X, NU (Grounded), A, NU (TP26), VW, DD, DL, DR, DU, SY

NU = Not Used, reads as 1

This is with no buttons pressed, only the PnC cable is plugged in. So you'd get 11111010 then 11111111 after the Read Command, or 0xFA then 0xFF

Here A, X and Y are pressed. along with the PnC cable still plugged in. So you'd get 11110000 then 01111111, or 0xF0 then 0x7F

Clean PCB scans.

MCU BOARD TOP CLEAN

MCU BOARD BOTTOM CLEAN

w02057 · « **Reply #1 on:** August 14, 2016, 06:00:31 AM »

Awesome work as always RDC!

Interesting that they've decided to go for an SoC type module, and removed one of the two board-to-board connectors.

wordene1 · « **Reply #2 on:** September 09, 2016, 11:58:47 AM »

Great post! Any possible info on a point for the sync button?

RDC · « **Reply #3 on:** September 09, 2016, 12:12:30 PM »

Post has been edited with that info now.

Dagaso · « **Reply #4 on:** January 11, 2017, 11:08:36 AM »

Hi, I'm trying to solder a button on TP21 which is supposed to be A but does nothing. I have put a cable to TP22 to make ground and another cable to TP21 for the A and
does nothing.

Edit: I already found the correct TP21, I mistakenly connected it to the TP21 that is next to the TP9 and it has to be soldered in the TP21 that is next to the TP27 of the other PCB

regards

RDC · « **Reply #5 on:** January 11, 2017, 11:35:06 AM »

That's why the TP spots are listed under the corresponding header of TEST POINTS on BUTTON/POWER Board or TEST POINTS on MCU Board, as both can have the same number TP spot, but it doesn't do the same thing.

troyvolta · « **Reply #6 on:** January 26, 2017, 10:37:36 PM »

hello, I also have the saleae Logic Pro. Great analyzer.

i have a question for you. do you know how to power up the 1708 or 1697 externally? when i ground the GU line, it will power down, but I cant seem to get it to power up using the same line.

Thanks in advance.

RDC · « **Reply #7 on:** January 26, 2017, 11:46:28 PM »

Not sure what you're trying to do there or how. The USB cable is an external power source, and it should work fine.

If you have the Button/Power board removed, then that's the issue and you can read thru the 1537 thread for info on what to try there powering it with that removed.

troyvolta · « **Reply #8 on:** January 27, 2017, 11:22:49 AM »

sorry, I don't think I explained myself very well. I want to externally power up a stock 1708 or 1697 controller using another microprocessors I/O line as opposed to pressing the guide button manually. I want to run the wires out of the controller to another micro. I could just directly connect across the Guide button, but the guide buttons location is hard to wire up. So I was wondering if you knew of a different spot on the controller that would mimic a manual press of the guide button to power it up.

Thanks.

RDC · « **Reply #9 on:** January 27, 2017, 12:41:42 PM »

Gotcha. You can't ground the GU pin of the connector and have that work, as there is a Diode on the board that is giving you the grief there. Use the Cathode side of D27 for your GU connection as that goes directly to the Guide button. This is the same on all versions so far.

grokshot · « **Reply #10 on:** April 11, 2017, 01:27:44 PM »

Adding A and B back buttons. I did this using scans of the old One controller but I have a 1708. I just want to make sure I use the right solder points. From what I see I can use TP21 on the BUTTON/POWER Board for A, but I don't know what Ground to use. Then I can use TP41 on MCU Board and TP22 or TP26 for Ground. Am I reading this wrong? Is that not where I need to solder to add new buttons? Any help is very appreciated.

RDC · « **Reply #11 on:** April 11, 2017, 04:06:45 PM »

Those are the correct TP spots to use for the 1708, and ground is ground, so you can use any ground you like for the buttons.

grokshot · « **Reply #12 on:** April 11, 2017, 04:51:55 PM »

So all I need to do is solder to those TP spots and any ground? Just really want to make sure I didn't need to solder anywhere else and that those were the right contact points to add the scuf-like buttons.

RDC · « **Reply #13 on:** April 11, 2017, 05:12:54 PM »

grokshot · « **Reply #14 on:** April 11, 2017, 05:21:12 PM »

Unfortunately my soldering iron was just too much and killed the test point for one of them. TP21. So now the normal B button doesn't work either. Not sure why it was harder on this one than the older version. The new A button didn't work either but the old one still does. I wonder if the ground has to be on the same board for that one.

RDC · « **Reply #15 on:** April 11, 2017, 05:32:46 PM »

The soldering iron is fine, it's how you're using it. If it ended up hot enough to torch the pad off the board, then it was long past melting the solder and being done.

TP21 is for A

The TP41 is in the middle of the B button trace, so if it was nuked off the board then B would be dead. You'll have prep both vias at each end of that trace now and jumper it with a wire to get B working again. Don't torch those though or fixing B will be more of a hassle.

Ground is ground, doesn't matter which board it comes from.

grokshot · « **Reply #16 on:** April 11, 2017, 05:47:31 PM »

Sorry, I miswrote with the TP numbers. I am not sure how to jumper for B. I may just have to buy a new board and be more careful next time. Thank you for all the help.

What wattage iron should I use?

leonemax81 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 19, 2017, 01:52:47 AM »

You can know the points of the rapid fire 9 Mode Jump Drop Shot Hex (12f1822) (Read 31998 times) on this version of PCB

RDC · « **Reply #18 on:** May 19, 2017, 05:58:47 AM »

@ grokshot - Soldering iron wattage depends more on skill level than anything, though there is no point using a 200W gun on the controller. I use a 60W Hakko here for almost everything that I do, but all you really need for messing around with controllers is a 25W or so at most.

@ leonmax81 - The TP spots for this controller are listed in the first post.

leonemax81 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 19, 2017, 07:40:14 AM »

Hi, thank you for the answer .. I installed the PIC fast with the PIC (12f1822) .... following the first post points ... the first 6 modes ie the fast fire RAPID do not work! am I doing something wrong...

leonemax81 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 19, 2017, 07:54:02 AM »

I can not understand where pin 6 is to be connected to the PCB controller.....

RDC · « **Reply #21 on:** May 19, 2017, 07:58:06 AM »

That is not my chip, so I've no idea what could be wrong there. What wiring diagram are you following?

leonemax81 · « **Reply #22 on:** May 19, 2017, 08:14:08 AM »

I'm following the points of the PIC chip of the link below:
https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43308.0.html

leonemax81 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 19, 2017, 08:21:17 AM »

These are the points I connected with the PIC 12f1822:

Pin 1: J5 Connector Pin 4 - 3.3v.
Pin 2: R5.
Pin 3: R42.
Pin 4: Linked to the Button.
Pin 5: R39.
Pin 6: TP21 - A.
Pin 7: TP41 - B.
Pin 8: GND.

And do not work the first 6 modes, where am I wrong?

RDC · « **Reply #24 on:** May 19, 2017, 08:52:13 AM »

That does not help. What diagram or instructions are you using? Pictures of your install might help also.

leonemax81 · « **Reply #25 on:** May 19, 2017, 09:12:07 AM »

Here are the photos, these are the points I used:

RDC · « **Reply #26 on:** May 19, 2017, 09:29:53 AM »

You have pin 1 of the PIC connected to pin 3 of J5, not pin 4.

Pin 4 of J5 is on the other side of the connector. Odds are on one side, evens are on the other. Whoever made that messed that up. Just use TP35 on the Button/Power board for you 3.3v power to Pin 1 of the PIC.

That may or may not fix it, as I'm sure the code was written based on the ADC having a 3.3v source, not 3v to whatever the battery voltage is, which is what is on pin 3 there. Change that to either pin 4 or TP35 and see how it works then.

leonemax81 · « **Reply #27 on:** May 19, 2017, 10:15:55 AM »

Nothing settled the 3.3 pin v1. But nothing works yet ... other ideas ??

Or do you tell me a quick fire that works on this controller version?

RDC · « **Reply #28 on:** May 19, 2017, 10:54:37 AM »

Unless you have another older version controller to test that PIC on and make sure it works, no idea. The controller hasn't changed how it works, so you'll need to get the person that coded it to look into it.

leonemax81 · « **Reply #29 on:** May 19, 2017, 11:07:36 AM »

I confirm that on an old version of the controller the pic works ... you know a fast running version of this new controller ...

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 219877 times)