XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim"

[Qball]

To answer your first question from my research these https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alps-Alpine/RKJXV1224005?qs=RiQAlOPxzzAqLSX9lUzx8Q%3D%3D are the genuine sticks.
Your second one no clue when I've needed a bumper I take one from a board I have destroyed
Your third question I have managed to find some on ebay before but then again I am in the US and don't know it that affects search results

[iivan]

Hi all, I m going to add extra LSC and RSC button to my controller.
 
my plan is connect the MCU Board TP42(LSC) and TP24(GND), TP43(RSC) and TP22(GND) to a push buttom (simple 7mm Momentary Push Button Switch Round Flat Button)

my question is: do I need another 33ohm for this?

many thx.

[RDC]

It's not really that necessary. If you solder to the LSC and RSC solder joints at the stick instead of the TP spots though you'll be going thru the existing 33ohm and can keep it exactly how the original LSC/RSC work.

[iivan]

Thx for your reply




do you mean i should connect L1/L2 -> extra push button - > L3/L4?

[RDC]

Yes, but you only need to use 2 of the 4 spots there.

L3 <- new button -> L4

R3 <- new button -> R4

[iivan]

Thank you for your help.

it look much more easier =)

[huggies99]

hello. I deleted the element by accident, tell me the value, as I understand it is a diode. What is his denomination EG1
https://skr.sh/sDggQBaGJGn?a

[amxcs]

Hello,
is this controller fake because it doesn't look 100% like the photos from the first post?

[RDC]

Not sure what you're seeing that looks suspect. An earlier/later run of the same version board or one made at another factory might have some subtle differences where they place that info or tweak something, but that doesn't mean it's fake. Knockoff controllers have massively different hardware inside and look nothing like the official ones.

[john.jenin]

https://imgur.com/WYEF4rv

Hello, should I get a beep if I placed my probe on point A and point B ? (please refer my picture). According to above circuit diagram, it is connected together. I do get a beep on point A and C but nothing on A and B.

[RDC]

Do not measure Resistors using the continuity setting on the meter, use the Ohms setting instead.

A to B (R25) should be 25.5k
A to C (R26) should be 0

[Mackerel]

@RDC and others. Thank you for your helpful posts. I accidentally ripped off the pad of my RB button, but successfully soldered a jumper wire to TP20 using your photos and advice. I didn't know there was a way to bypass the original pad to another pad located somewhere else. This was the 5th time I've had to replace my RB button. I hate this thing. Hopefully, the switches I bought from Digikey will last longer than another batch I bought elsewhere. Such a crapshoot of suppliers.

I have some questions:

1) Is it okay to stick the end of the wire through the through-hole of TP20 and solder it like that? The reason I ask is because TP20's pad looks different and seems like there's not much metal exposed to adhere solder to, so I ended up just holding the wire on top of the hole and soldering to the extremely small amount of solder that was already there. Not very strong, but it's holding.

2) Given how small TP20 is, would flux paste actually help make it adhere properly? It just seems like overkill, but I don't know.

3) Would conductive ink work as a connection from a new RB button's lead to the trace and be faster/better solution than a jumper wire? I'm considering getting some and trying it out, but if anyone else has some experience with it, I'd appreciate advice.

==============================

Things I noticed for anyone attempting the same thing:

(It seems I just didn't have the J1 connector connected securely)- There is a metal "spring" or ribbon on the second board (with thumbsticks) that must make contact with the first board's (with bumper button switches) surface contacts to enable the controller to power on (power cord is on the first board). I was scared that I had shorted something because the controller refused to turn on, but I realized this connection must be completed with pressure exerted from the screws. It was strange to me that the controller would not power on when disassembled, but would power on once I reassembled it with the outer shell's screws.

- Speaking of the metal spring above, if you do solder a jumper wire to TP20, it will likely have to be placed between the sandwiched boards, and therefore must be placed or shaped in a way that avoids getting sandwiched between the metal spring and it contacts on the first board.

- It is unnecessary to remove the bumper plastic (what you actually press when the controller is assembled) to solder bumper buttons. Just leave it alone, unless it's really getting in the way.

- It is unnecessary to desolder the rumble motors or its wires from either board. You can just unscrew the second board and gently move/rotate it out of the way to reach the first board's leads. But, of course, this might weaken/break the wires if you're not careful, but it's not like I've been super gentle with them and it's been fine.

- The torx screws for the second board are smaller and easily stripped (both the plastic post they screw into and the screw's notch). I stripped one side's post and it no longer screws in properly. Microsoft for these weak ass screws.

[RDC]

TP20 is just a pad, there is no hole or via under that, and if you end up tearing that off the board you'll find soldering to the pad of U4 to get it going again a far bigger challenge.

The vias are full of solder mask, so you're not putting a wire thru any of them without using a pin vise and tiny drill bit to clear the hole first and then removing the solder mask around it to expose the copper.

If you aren't using 30awg size wire, you should be, and then use some hot glue to secure it in place after you have it where you want it. Do not glue right on top of the solder joint you made, but back from the joint just a little bit.

Good solder flux makes things go a bit smoother, depending on what you're soldering. For sticking a wire to a TP spot on that board, it's not really going to help out that much, and if it does then the solder you're using is most likely not a good rosin core type.

Conductive ink is alright, though it's better used where you are trying to keep the repair as low profile as possible, where a bunch of wires to make the repair might cause issues. It's also no good for trying to rebuil the eyelet where the RB lead goes, the wire end wrapped around that once is a far better option.

Not sure why you're going from the RB lead to TP20? You can go from the RB lead to the bottom of D3 and C29 for a much shorter run.

The large spring contact is just another ground, and there are already 2 ground connection in the J1 connector, so as long as that is plugged in that spring contact isn't really doing much.

[Mackerel]

This is the first time I did a jumper wire for anything and I'm not very experienced with PCBs, so I didn't know it wasn't a hole or that I could use the pad beneath D3/C29 either. If that info was posted, I missed it.

I have no other "just wire" wire and I'm not exactly interested in spending time getting wire from some random old earbuds, let alone buying a spool of wirewrap that I will almost never use again. The wire I have is probably around 0.5mm thick, about double of 30awg. Is there a reason to use 30awg wire?

For using conductive ink, I'd rather have the RB tactile switch easily replaceable, since it constantly wears out first for me. If a fix doesn't require setting up for soldering, which I extremely rarely ever do, and it's generally faster to use ink, I'll do that instead. As for glue, it makes sense. Not sure if I'll do that though.

Edit: Also, I see. I suppose I just didn't have the J1 connector connected properly at times. Again, appreciate the advice.

[angelicdank]

Hello, first time posting here.

I apologize in advance for asking for help. I've read this post's first page and other to guide me but each time i find a new thing to try, it kinda fails. Also, the thing is i started reading it after i butchered my controlller's pcb.

My micro-usb port started to fail so i decided i would change it. Ripped the traces off. Tried to do some jumper wires and sometime ago i managed to make it work for a while, but then it started failing after an half an hour, in the end, it all went downhill from there, but at

least i learned a lot (from making jumper wires and properties of electronics).

Here are some photos of the pcb. All i have is the ground left (also cr1 just fell when tried to repair one of those times).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lADkZkSOJw4cFMFgXLK9sKLZy2zrPqir/view?usp=sharing

And here is a replacement "upgrade" USB-C i bought to use instead.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ksRw4GuBVqca9yqCHONgiA4_z168Qk8F/view?usp=sharing

Don't know if it matters but i use it only for PC. Sorry for bothering, and thanks for reading!!!

[Razzledazzle]

Hey all hoping for a hand with some repair. I?ve gone through this whole thread thank you so much for everything that?s been posted this far , I couldn?t find a solution for my issue though. I recently replaced my left joystick module and that?s all working fine but now my Left trigger shows constantly activated . Any help is appreciated , thank you!!!

https://imgur.com/a/x1Lb2H6

https://imgur.com/a/obC3hbi

[RDC]

They have nothing to do with each other, so you have caused some kind of collateral damage. Can't make out much from that board pic. Check C38 for a short and make sure R42 is 100ohms (both are top side just under the stick) and make sure TP68 is not shorted to ground.

[Razzledazzle]

Thanks so much for the quick response. I?m pretty new to all this fun stuff so bear with me. Checking with my DMM black on TP21 (grnd) red to TP68 I?m getting 3.3v. How do I check R42 and C38 won?t they not get power if it?s not connected to the other board? I?ve spent the majority of this Sunday working on this and as frustrating as it?s been it?s also been a pretty fun hobby for the day! Appreciate all your contributions.

[Razzledazzle]

Looks like I?m getting 100ohms out of R42

[Razzledazzle]

Also curious how you would replace one of those small components (sensor, cap, resistor) I can?t see any solder to remove or anything

[RDC]

Typically you use a hot air setup for reworking most of these kinds of components, and you can see the solder on the ends of the Resistors and Capacitors.

Do not have the controller powered up when checking for Resistance values or looking for a short with the meter set to Ohms.

TP68 should never have 3.3v on it, and if it did then the LT would act unpressed. If it in fact does does though, then something is shorted and/or really knackered somewhere, because that measurement is conflicting with how it would act.

Plug up the USB cable and set the meter to DC Volts and measure the 3 pins of U11 with respect to ground, aka black lead to ground, red to check each of the pins.

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[Razzledazzle]

Hey RDC thanks for the response , I double checked TP68 and it?s showing 3.3V and doesn?t change whether I push the trigger or not .

At U11
Point 3 gives me 3.3V
Point 2 gives me 3.3V
Point 1 gives me 2.3V



https://imgur.com/a/e0k34jW

[Razzledazzle]

Also just checked TP67 to compare and it is also getting 3.3V

[RDC]

Well, you're not doing something right, because point 3 of U11 is ground, there is no way on earth for that to measure 3.3v.

[Razzledazzle]

Did some cleanup on the board a little , saw a little splash under my jumper so got that out. I?m hooked up to game pad tester and upon connecting nothing shows pressed, if I press right trigger it activates both left and right trigger but when I release RT shows unpressed LT shows pressed. Disconnect, reconnect to GP Tester press LT and release and LT shows still pressed.

[Razzledazzle]

Well, you're not doing something right, because point 3 of U11 is ground, there is no way on earth for that to measure 3.3v.

You?re right, I?m a big dummy 😂 I was using TP9 as ground because it?s right beside TP21 I got them mixed up.


TP68 shows 0V

Point 3 gives 0V
Point 2 gives 0V
Point 1 gives 1V

[RDC]

Clean all of that up good with a Q-tip or old toothbrush with the bristles cut short and some rubbing alcohol then test it again.

[Razzledazzle]

All shows the same after a good cleaning except Point 2 now shows 0.02V. Does this seem accurate?

[Razzledazzle]

I just checked the other side , looks like TP68 is getting 0.10 and the U10 port 2 has 0.10 as well

[RDC]

You really need a scope to see what's going on there for sure, but the meter should measure around 1.3v on pin 1, then 0.3v on pin 2 of U11, with the magnets in the Triggers away from the Hall sensors. You can also measure U10 for comparison, as it's the same Hall sensor, just for the RT instead of LT.

If you have around 1v on pin 1, and 0v on pin 2, then that suggests either the LT line is shorted to ground somewhere, or the Hall sensor has gone bad.