JDM-055 Power Issue

[RepairNoob]

Hello,

I've attempting to venture into more advanced controller repair. My experience consistent mostly of replacing charge ports, analog sticks etc...but nothing more advanced then that. I'm having an issue where it appears the controller isn't getting power from the battery. I can also confirm that when plugged in via usb or the port on the bottom the battery isn't being charged. The controller isn't recognized by my PS4 nor PC.  I have tested the battery on another controller and it works fine so I'm assuming the issue is with the board itself. I've also swapped out the charge port but no go.  How would I go about troubleshooting this? Please bare with me as I'm new to the more advanced side of things.

[RDC]

You picked are a real winner to learn on there.

There is a fuse on the JDS board (The USB/LED board) though I'd suspect it's not the issue if it will also not charge from the EXT port or be recognized when plugged in over USB.

The not charging could be the S2PG001A is bad, seems to be more and more common of a part to fail on those, and the only place you'll find another one is from a working controller.

https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44549.msg334971.html#msg334971

The USB not working could mean the MCU is shot, since there isn't but a few parts from the connector to the MCU when it comes to the data lines (microUSB connector, common mode choke on the JDS board, connector, flex cable, connector, common mode choke on motherboard, 2 Resistors then the MCU) and really no point in going down that road as again it would have to come from a working controller.

[RepairNoob]

So essentially what you’re saying is that it’s pretty much a loss. No point as I would have to grab a component off a good board. How could I determine which is the faulty component? Is this something I could determine with a multi-meter?

[RDC]

The JDM-055 is pretty much just 2 chips. The PMIC that does all of the power management, then the MCU that controls everything including the PMIC, so if it's not working right, odds are one of them is causing the problem.

If the board looks pristine, then there's really no telling what could be wrong, as 99% of the time you just need to go where the last person was fiddling around with it and usually you'll find the problem.

No one has diagnosed every issue every controller has, least not to my knowledge, and you could even have one that has an all new issue, so unless you have a working JDM-055 to start comparing this and that to there's really no easy checks to tell you what exactly is wrong. To make things even more fun, there could be multiple issues that all cause the same problem.

You'd almost need more than just a DMM to dig into one of those things as well, a scope and more than likely a Logic Analyzer would be the tools necessary to tackle a proper troubleshooting of one of those. But the short and simple of it is, it's not charging, so the PMIC is a good place to start, then it's not detected over USB, so the MCU is what that's connected to there, and being a BGA chip you can't easily probe any of the connections at it and need a schematic to know where everything is going. The only ones that have access to that are Sony and anyone crazy enough to ruin a controller or two to make their own.

I'm not saying it's futile, thing could just have a single component or bad via in there causing all the headache, but until you look at and check every single one of them to find that one, and in the case of the PMIC or MCU that's not easily done, then it's hard to say what the issue could be or best way to tell what might be bad.

[RepairNoob]

Thanks for the informative reply. Ill look into getting a scope and a logic analyzer. They seem a bit pricey haha

[wickated]

check bunch of resistors on front plate near right stick. they are somehow connected to PMIC

[emil0076]

Hi, I have a similar problem with my JDM-055.
- The controller isn't charging, when I plug in a USB cable or put the controller in a charging station nothing happens.
- When I connect the controller to my PS4 with a USB cable nothing happens, PS4 doesn't see or react to the connected controller.
- The controller more or less (rather less ) is alive, when I push PS button the light in the controller starts blinking blue (like it wants to connect to a PS)
- I can turn on the BT pairing mode (holding PS and Share buttons), other devices can see the controller correctly, when I manually pair the controller with any device (PS4, iPad, Mac) it connects but immediately disconnects and turns off, only PS4 says something just before disconnecting, it says "Dualshock 4 disconnected. Charge the battery".
- I checked the battery's voltage, it is 3.88 V.
- I disconnected the battery, plugged in a USB cable and after a couple of presses of PS button the controller without the battery, started blinking blue (like in the third point, so that means the connection between the USB port and the controller's board works)
- I noticed that when the controller is connected to a 5V USB charger the PMIC S2PG001A is getting hot and the controller is taking 0.3 A
My question is: what can I check and what can cause the problem? If the culprit is S2PG001A, fixing the controller doesn't make sense, but before disposing of the device I would like to check other minor things, maybe a capacitor or something else is broken (but I have no idea what it can be and what I should start with)

[emil0076]

Additional info. I checked the capacitors and found out that the 3.2vA (according to schematics from this forum) line is shorted, but as I can see the line goes to almost ALL things on the board, is there any way to find out what shorts the line?

[RDC]

Easiest way is to use a thermal camera and inject 3.2v onto the line and see what gets hot first. Alternate, and much cheaper method, is to use rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip or eye dropper, as it will evaporate much faster off of any component that is getting warm even before you can feel it.

[emil0076]

OK, S2PG001A was getting hot and alcohol evaporated from this element. I desoldered and removed the element from the board, checked the connections and there is no solder bridge but still, there is a shortcut on the board on the same elements

[RDC]

Then inject 3.2v on that rail and find what gets hot next.