XBOX One X, turns on and then off, no video signal

[MadMaxGR]

Hello everyone,

I have searched all over and I can't find much information regarding.

The XBOX One X is turning on and after 3-4 seconds shut off. I am sure the power supply is ok,  I get 12V.

I have applied new thermal paste since the old one was dry. No effect.

I have noticed that the cooling fan doesn't spin at all.

The mainboard layout is very different than XBOX One S and I cannot follow the 12V rail. Maybe someone could guide me through....

The only info I have found that might be similar to my issue is that the cause of this behaviour is the HDMI retimer or IC. Is it possible? Is there any way to comfirm this without having to desolder the HDMI IC and replace it with known working one?

Please HELP!

[MadMaxGR]

@RDC can you help?

Also I have DP159 in stock,  is it interchangeable with the 158?

[RDC]

I haven't had any of those to tear into here, but having a working one to poke around in for comparison would be the most useful.

The pinouts of those chips are similar, and both are 6-gbps, but I wouldn't swap one for the other without digging thru both datasheets and making sure all of their registers matched. I'd wager the farther down that rabbit hole you go there the more they will be different.

If you're wondering how the the Kureig 2.0 K200 works though.

[MadMaxGR]

I haven't had any of those to tear into here, but having a working one to poke around in for comparison would be the most useful.

The pinouts of those chips are similar, and both are 6-gbps, but I wouldn't swap one for the other without digging thru both datasheets and making sure all of their registers matched. I'd wager the farther down that rabbit hole you go there the more they will be different.

If you're wondering how the the Kureig 2.0 K200 works though.

I can't find their Datasheet, 
But is it possible this chip to cause shut off and no fan spinning at all?

[MadMaxGR]

Ok found the data sheets. Is NO GO,  the DP159 is QfN48

[RDC]

The SN65DP159 is QFN48 (7x7mm)
The SN75DP159 is QFN40 (5x5mm)
The TDP158 is QGN40 (5x5mm)

I have no idea how they set everything up there, but since the chip has registers that can be read, it's entirely possible if it were bad they have it setup to do that if it doesn't get back the correct data.

[MadMaxGR]

The SN65DP159 is QFN48 (7x7mm)
The SN75DP159 is QFN40 (5x5mm)
The TDP158 is QGN40 (5x5mm)

I have no idea how they set everything up there, but since the chip has registers that can be read, it's entirely possible if it were bad they have it setup to do that if it doesn't get back the correct data.

You are right the  SN75DP159 is on the xbox one X. I found it. I will check pin by pin and get back to you.

[MadMaxGR]

Mostly they are same,  but more I am worried on pins 16, 19, and 23.

Check the pin outs diagrams and tell me your opinion please,  before I begin desoldering etc.

[RDC]

Pin 16 is different, though it causing an actual issue is debatable until I dig thru the DS to see exactly what those are doing, but have no idea how the XB has them set either, which you'll need to know to see if that will change how it works in there. It could be Pulled-Up, Pulled-Down, Floating or controlled by some external source like some CPU pin. Almost really need a schematic before trying a kind of major component swap like that.

Pin 19 is a 1.1v power connection, same as pin 20, so that could just be jumpered from there to connect it, as long as the pad on the PCB isn't grounded, in which case it would need to be removed first.

Pin 23 should be looked at with pin 8, 16 and 17 since that's all I2C/Pinstrap setup. Again without a schematic no idea how they have those configured, and even if they are both setup for I2C and have the same address, you'll need to see if all of the commands are the same.

It would be faster to just toss it in there and see if it works, I don't see any pinout differences that would cause anything to fry minus the pin 19 issue since it's NC on the 158 if they tied that to ground on the PCB that could short the 1.1v rail installing the 159, but even if that pad is floating I wouldn't hold my breath on it working 100%. That's enough differences to make me stop and evaluate a pile more of it before I swapped it in there, unless it's a really doesn't matter board, then you could just look at it as an opportunity to try something new out and see how far it flies.

[MadMaxGR]

I will order the 158.  I can't risk on a customer xb. I will post more when I receive the ic.