Xbox Rechargeable Batteries - Does anybody have the pinout or how they work?

[sofakng]

Does anybody have the pinout of the official (OEM) Xbox One/Series rechargeable batteries?

The batteries have two tabs/pins that appear to connect to the controller where AA batteries normally would.  However, there is no voltage across them when I tested it?

There are also four pins on the battery that connect to the controller.  I thought it was 5v, I2C (SDA), I2C (SDL) and GND, but I'm seeing ~3.2v across some of them.

The purpose of me asking is to check if my rechargeable batteries are working correctly and test the charge capacity, etc with my battery tester.

[wickated]

battery + - tabs - downvolted 3v from liion
battery 4 tabs - 5V from usb for charge, 2 data lines for sending charge info, additional ground.
since original vattery pack has custom power IC , u cant form same charge signal input.
just use liion battery pack + tp4056 set to 300ma charge current unregulated.

[LethalPrime]

you can measure across any of these, each one will give you a different value but if you get above 3v on any of them then the battery is probably good unless you get a major voltage drop. Set your meter to the correct voltage range unless you have a fluke or equivalent meter that does the range automatically.

https://imgur.com/a/NkgtO3J

[sofakng]

Awesome, thanks very much!

The lowest voltage is 3.0v which is considered empty, right?

Likewise, the charged voltage for Lithium Ion should be 3.7v, right?

Finally, which point is actual GND/Common?

I'd like to connect a battery tester (CBA IV) so I need to know which point(s) actually power the controller?

Thanks again very much!

[RDC]

The PnC battery pack is shown in the 1537 controller thread. You can't test the cells with any standard method, because as wickated mentioned, it's not designed as just a simple battery pack, and it's also 2 cells in parallel, so it would need to be taken apart and one side of each cell desoldered from the BMS board in there to check them properly.

Alternately, you could dig thru the BQ24250 DS and try making up your own tester for it. It's I2C, and the order is AA+, 5v, SCL, SDA, PNC, GND (AA-) The PNC line part of what enables/disables the AA+ connection. I haven't looked at that mess since I tore the one apart in the 1537 thread there, over 7 years ago now.

[LethalPrime]

Heres the link to RDCs post mention.

To do what youre trying to do youll likely need to take it apart or possibly hook into what I marked as red and each black point at either side, not the middle

To test simple voltage a multimeter will do at the points I marked, but I take it youre trying to breathe extra life into battery packs that wont take charge anymore so that will be more work and require you to dissemble

https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43204.0.html

[RDC]

You can not test the cells in that pack using any combination of those contacts.

[LethalPrime]

I was getting 3.91v and 3.8v on my el cheapo multi meter off those contacts set to the 20v range on a battery that was last charged 6 months ago and reads as full on the Xbox. Other than that basic voltage reading, yeah, I dont know. Especially not with that CBA IV he mentioned 

[sofakng]

Thanks very much for the information.

I was just hoping to check some new battery packs that I purchased.  The reason is because my first two battery packs (official Microsoft) don't charge at all.

I've purchased replacement battery packs, but I was hoping to drain them and make sure that they charge OK but I can't seem to easily (quickly?) drain them.  They advertise 30 hours of charge and I don't play enough hours per day to drain them under normal usage to make sure the replacements are working OK.

[gamerchris555]

OK a tad necro but new info discovered
tore apart my standard OEM pack and discovered it is actually a serial pack with enable and 3.0v buck output
the problem people notice is that v+ is basically isolated unless inserted
pull pin 4(starting from ground AA pin) to 3.3v and it activates
then you get a stable 3.0v on V+ and the pin 1 is 5v input(for charging only)
so an external charger is possible simply using pin 4 pin 1 and v-
I would guesstimate a 1k pull-up on the pin 4 to activate the pack then bond USB with a series limit resistor(not sure how it charges yet) to v- and pin 1
this should get your pack up to full without a controller at all
then the stable 3.0v can even be bonded to sensitive stuff like a wiimote
but honestly just know that the OG controller takes a range of 2.6v-5.5v(maybe 6.1 due to diode drop) on the AA pins and you can simulate a AA pack by using 2 silicon diodes(1.2v drop to 3v full) or fudge it higher for 3.3v stuff(like a wiimote and xbone controller) by using a silicone+schottky(0.9v drop leading to 3.3v 100%)
the diode trick is wasteful but given the fiery and unreliable nature of wiimotes at >3.3v I think it might be ideal for all custom 2xaa lithium replacers to feed via dropper diodes
bonus of the diode trick, low battery is not broken with custom lithium packs as at 3.0v on cell you get 2.1v on term(or 2.6v term is ~3.5v so not far off a dead lithium cell and given it works lower without vibration it might reach as low as 3.3v cell or 2.2v term)
correction before submit: no series limiter is required it has 2 separate buck coils for 5v>battery>output
it may act like a 3.0v UPS board that is fed by USB
very useful for all manner of retro controllers, but the SDA/SCL lines might indicate a full lockup like a makita battery when run too low too many times