Author Topic: Rapid Fire Method (No Chip) (Read 379701 times)

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #510 on:** February 22, 2009, 12:48:19 PM »

thats what i been saying every time i see ppl post on this forum.

JKLAZ · « **Reply #511 on:** March 11, 2009, 04:03:03 PM »

**disregard that.

Im doing this mod today and ill see how it goes

a killa jew · « **Reply #512 on:** April 12, 2009, 04:29:03 PM »

i am trying this mod right now, but i do not have a tp3 controller or i do not know exactly where it is

is there anyway to mod the controller without a tp3 controller

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #513 on:** April 16, 2009, 11:15:15 AM »

no it wont this for 360 controller not tp3

triggerihappy · « **Reply #514 on:** April 20, 2009, 01:22:03 PM »

Ok so this is my first post, it looked pretty simple but i'm having trouble with it. it's my first time modding a controller but i can't get the button to do anything.

i've soldered to what i think is the right spot, not sure if i did it right or if it's just the button i used but.. i took pictures in case any of you guys can help me out. thnx alot.

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #515 on:** April 20, 2009, 01:24:45 PM »

the one for the ground almost look like its not attached

triggerihappy · « **Reply #516 on:** April 20, 2009, 01:26:25 PM »

it isnt, i just put it there for the picture, was about to try a new button and re solder but i didn't want to reuin a paddle so i posted on here.

any idea what im doing wrong? :X

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #517 on:** April 20, 2009, 01:59:39 PM »

oh ok
well i see u soldered a wire to the rumble back so what is that wire attached to

triggerihappy · « **Reply #518 on:** April 20, 2009, 02:35:00 PM »

i took it all apart, new button (different type) and re-soldered what i already had. the rumble is only connected to the left silver thing.. lol

but i tried the paddle and now the button i installed works but it only shoots once and i saw on a previous post that also happened with someone else so im gonna look so solder spots in a little, but if any1 could tell me the easiest way to remove them without damaging the paddle.
thanks again

triggerihappy · « **Reply #519 on:** April 20, 2009, 03:35:45 PM »

Ok, so i looked for solder spots, found none. where i soldered the red and black wire from the rumble; i have the red on the left and the black on the right, should i have either the red or black wire soldered to the paddle its self?

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #520 on:** April 20, 2009, 10:35:54 PM »

y u messing with the rumbe ur trying to get rapid fire right and what kind of controller do u have cg or matrix

Modded Matt · « **Reply #521 on:** April 21, 2009, 04:20:45 AM »

there is no reason for the last six posts. by looking at your first pic. I have spoted your problem right away. a good modder should have seen it also.. you have a CG controller!! it is not going to work. to do this mod you must have a matrix controller. for that controller, you must look into buying a chip, or a premod. looking at the heat damage at the #1 LED I sugest you buy a premodded controller. try the radio shack 555 mod. or go to our free code section and learn to program a chip.

PomerJoN · « **Reply #522 on:** April 26, 2009, 01:22:02 PM »

I did this mod and found it easier to solder to the rumble motor ground, but im having a problem. Is shoots rapid fire but on its own if i hold the push switch it stops and when i let off it it starts again. What could it be?

Modded Matt · « **Reply #523 on:** April 26, 2009, 02:21:05 PM »

this is becouse the switch you are using is wrong, it is wired normaly closed. you need it normaly open. if using a tack switch that has four legs, use only two of the legs, and use two that are beside each other not on top of each other. does that make since? I dont know how better to say it.

if you are usiong one of these, move one wire, and put it beside the other.

PomerJoN · « **Reply #524 on:** April 26, 2009, 02:33:11 PM »

ok thanks man, i just now saw on the package it said N.C. contacts, which i now know means normally open. Ok ill have to get ones that say N.O. right?

Dcofer · « **Reply #525 on:** April 26, 2009, 04:03:19 PM »

Ok so im thinking of trying this because I happen to have one of these older style controllers but what I dont know is a) what size and type of driver i need to get the controller apart, and b) do you have to have the triggers wired up to the LED that is currently on or does it matter? I am not sure if the PWM works while the led is off say im player 4 but im hooked up to the player 1 LED, will the trigger still work?.

Im sure the answers are somewhere in the post but 18 pages is a lot to read >.<

Modded Matt · « **Reply #526 on:** April 27, 2009, 06:09:07 AM »

Dcofer, first of all this mod sucks....I advise agianst doing this, but if you insist...
a security t9 tip, or a small jewlers flat head screwdriver will get it open

yes, you must use the active led, or use the rumble pack. the rumble pack maty hezitate for a slight second, but will work for all players, most people dont notice the diference

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #527 on:** April 27, 2009, 10:44:40 PM »

srry i didnt pay attention to the pics i was really tired that day

avenger09123 · « **Reply #528 on:** May 06, 2009, 01:56:55 PM »

Alrighty, so I tried this out, I have the old-pre HDMI xbox and one of the original wired controllers. I saw how yall did it, and did the same thing, same connections, had my ohmeter make sure I was getting volts/amps out of the led when it was turned on and then I just touched the wire to the middle one and it didn't work, all it did was reset the controller. I touched the bottom one and it fired, but it also forced my character to go in circles and look upwards for some reason. So lucky me I go back and redo the soldering, cleaned it up and under a magnifying glass just made sure none of my connects on the board were crossed and everything was golden, then I got my meter out and hooked up to the first and second steady just under 10v, even squeezing the trigger it didn't change, however the connection between the first and third changed when I squeezed the trigger and voltage dropped....so basically this can't be done with a first gen wired controller at least the easy way shown here...

Modded Matt · « **Reply #529 on:** May 06, 2009, 04:02:30 PM »

this cannot be used on any wired controller, first gen or not. and if you are getting 10v something is way wrong. the led is giving 5v the center pin wired or not is a wiper, and should be around 2.5 normmaly so max you should read is 7.5 if you are getting 10v it sounds like you are bridged to the top pin.

radddogg · « **Reply #530 on:** May 06, 2009, 04:07:03 PM »

Ok, I thought I'd try this on an old broken controller (one of the thumbsticks is mangled). I used the button off the right bumper and wired as show. The soldering is clean and the led works fine but it doesn't work. What happens is I press the button and nothing happens until I release the button and then it fires a single shot. I've tried all manner of battery combinations but still the same result, and yes it is a matrix pad.

Also, is there a continual ground point on the matrix wireless as I have a mod chip for my wired which earths to a ground point but I can't get it to work on my wired as there is no ground.

Cheers guys.

Ben. · « **Reply #531 on:** May 11, 2009, 12:13:05 AM »

Could someone give me a link to the ideal switch.. Thanks

axelbeam · « **Reply #532 on:** May 14, 2009, 11:03:29 PM »

is there any way to do this for both triggers

Modded Matt · « **Reply #533 on:** May 15, 2009, 05:03:08 AM »

never tried, but I'm sure it would work as good as the rest of these mods. use the rumbles though, I personally would not solder both triggers to the LED, thats just me

axelbeam · « **Reply #534 on:** May 15, 2009, 10:41:35 AM »

i'll give it a shot and let everyone know

axelbeam · « **Reply #535 on:** May 16, 2009, 10:10:54 AM »

haven't been able to try it yet my daugter got a hold of my controller and ripped the wires and led out now i can't find the led could you guys tell me what size and type the are so i can replace it

Modded Matt · « **Reply #536 on:** May 17, 2009, 08:08:46 AM »

0603 smt led. it is the size of an "E" on a dime LOL if the wire ripped it out the solder pad is probably gone..that sucks..uniqueled.com has them cheap and quick... you shouldnt need it to play LOL

GOOD LUCK

Ben. · « **Reply #537 on:** May 17, 2009, 02:08:00 PM »

What Are The PERFECT SWITCHES For This?

Link?

Thanks

Modded Matt · « **Reply #538 on:** May 18, 2009, 05:23:37 AM »

well, for a sleeper design (top secrets here!!) you can use one of these:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3060978 pry the trigger assemly slightly off the controller mobo and push this under the nucke. so when you slightly push the trigger, its normal fire, but when you pull it all the way its rapid fire.

or use one of these:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508 they are big and feel nice and smooth, drill a half inch hole and insert from the outside of the controller, screw on retaining colar from inside. they work great.

Ben. · « **Reply #539 on:** May 18, 2009, 06:13:05 AM »

Thanks Matt..

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Author Topic: Rapid Fire Method (No Chip) (Read 379701 times)