Author Topic: Rapid Fire Method (No Chip) (Read 379833 times)

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #330 on:** August 21, 2008, 08:59:19 PM »

nono u need a button one that u push and and it comes up automatically not a switch...

themagicsauce · « **Reply #331 on:** August 21, 2008, 09:00:34 PM »

yeah it does come up automatically

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #332 on:** August 21, 2008, 09:08:56 PM »

oh ok well just try it out and that see if it works and if any more ussues accure just come back and ask...

wilson08 · « **Reply #333 on:** August 22, 2008, 03:21:52 AM »

Dont use a "clicky" Button - You need one that when you push it turns on, when you let go it turns off !:D

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #334 on:** August 22, 2008, 06:20:50 AM »

yes there you go...

themagicsauce · « **Reply #335 on:** August 22, 2008, 09:32:00 AM »

YAY I did it and it works great.

BTW I have figured out that when my battery pack has low battery the lights flash making the p1 light go on and off. This is why some people experience that mod working incorrectly as in not firing the whole clip at once or only firing one bullet. I switched my battery pack to a fully charged one and it works perfectly everytime!

No need to buy anything else like that new three wire piece.

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #336 on:** August 22, 2008, 09:24:35 PM »

Alrighty then nice work man...enjoy and good job....

JWhiteLightning · « **Reply #337 on:** August 23, 2008, 04:41:04 PM »

Man, ive tried 3 different switches with this, all of them momentary, and they where all just single fire. Will an SMT tact switch like the one pictured work?

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #338 on:** August 23, 2008, 09:59:45 PM »

Then use that and make sure ur controller is compatible with this mod..

happytomato · « **Reply #339 on:** August 24, 2008, 09:05:01 AM »

I have modded 2 my controllers, and I don't know if UK ones are different or something. But on rainbow, when I set the gun to single shot and press the turbo button, it is not evenly automatic. It sorta fires auto for a bit then stops for half a second then starts again. Also, on halo 3, the button works at first, then stops working, then will work when I end the game and change map. I know it sounds like a dodgy switch/connection but I've checked and rechecked everything and it happens on both of my controllers. Do you know what's going on?

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #340 on:** August 24, 2008, 01:53:22 PM »

hmm well for this it post to only work for COD4 no rainbow or halo...

TweekGeek · « **Reply #341 on:** August 26, 2008, 07:12:26 PM »

Hey guys! I just tried the mod a couple days ago and it worked great on both my t19 older version controllers. I've been reading alot of the posts and sense a bit of frustration from some of you. When I was puting together my second mod, I had a problem with the gun firing continuous without pushing the button, apparently I connected to the same side of the momentary switch. I had some problems with the same controller when #1 and #2 leds both melting off. The controller still works because I connected to the alternate solder point. Just remember, try not to overheat any of the components on the circuit board when soldering, you may damage a component and you will never know why your controller isn't working like it is supposed to. Coat your wire first and then touch the end of the wire to the point you want to make a connection, then place the soldering iron on the wire. The heat will travel to the connection point and transfer the solder to the joint. Remove the iron while carefully holding the wire in place for a second or two. That should do it, if not, start over. Like I said, unless you know your circuits and you got the right meters to test them, you won't know what you just fried and you will think this mod just doesn't work! If you realy want a video to see it in action, I'll be happy to post one in focus (no BS). I have yet to have luck with this mod on the new controller. If anyone has figured the new controller out without a chip, please let me know! Good Soldering.

Flinch107 · « **Reply #342 on:** August 26, 2008, 07:27:07 PM »

I modded my "old style" controller on Sunday and it works perfectly. Everything they tell you is true. If you use alkaline batteries make sure they aren't brand new. If the batteries are low and the LED's are circling it works but sporadically. If you are having trouble with your momentary switch you need to make sure that it is one of the "normally open" types. Also, try and find the lowest profile switch you can or get one of the little 1/4" square types... makes it easier to place for your comfort.

TweekGeek · « **Reply #343 on:** August 26, 2008, 09:27:55 PM »

Turns out after trying to mod two of my kids friends controllers, we are dealing with several different versions, not just "old" and "new". I just got lucky on the first two of mine that I tried. The two controllers I tried today were one old and one new version. The old version belonging to this guy looked almost identical to mine except it had more black on the contact circles where the controller buttons are pressed to the board, and the LED was brighter? I could not get the older controller to even give me one shot with the mod button? The newer controller obviously did not work. I just ordered 4 chips from http://wiredinput.com/ShopUSA/ I'm Tired of messin around, these chips should do the trick!!! Good Luck!

wilson08 · « **Reply #344 on:** August 27, 2008, 08:47:42 AM »

Quote from: TweekGeek on August 26, 2008, 09:27:55 PM

Turns out after trying to mod two of my kids friends controllers, we are dealing with several different versions, not just "old" and "new". I just got lucky on the first two of mine that I tried. The two controllers I tried today were one old and one new version. The old version belonging to this guy looked almost identical to mine except it had more black on the contact circles where the controller buttons are pressed to the board, and the LED was brighter? I could not get the older controller to even give me one shot with the mod button? The newer controller obviously did not work. I just ordered 4 chips from http://wiredinput.com/ShopUSA/ I'm Tired of messin around, these chips should do the trick!!! Good Luck!

Yh the chips are definately worth it, the "sleeper" mod is great - no external buttons

802Chives · « **Reply #345 on:** August 27, 2008, 09:17:26 AM »

Hey all, been thinking about this a bit, and sorry if it has been mentioned before. If people want this to work consistantly, they could use a PnC cable, hack a couple traces and use a linear reagulator to achieve the correct voltage where this hack works correctly.

Here is what I would try:
Find where the +5 comes in from the PnC cable to the controller and Isolate the trace by cutting around it (probably on both sides).
Then I would get a LM317 regualtor and the correct resistors to give the correct voltage (Im guessing 2.7V and check the spec sheet for resistor selection)
From there just wire ground to ground, Input to +5V, and output to positive battery terminal.

That would give you a consistant acting controller. Also you could add a potentiometer to the LM317 and possibly get a little adjustability out of your LED PWM signal

Personally tho I would get a chip from KINGMIKE_OS, he has the best stuff going

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #346 on:** August 27, 2008, 06:22:44 PM »

In addition has anyone heard if the sleep works perfectly at alll planning on wanting that done...

Winterz117 · « **Reply #347 on:** August 27, 2008, 06:42:37 PM »

you know its just alot easier to get the chip for 8 bucks and wire up a sleeper instead of hacking traces to put in linear regulators and whatnot, idk do what you want but you cant really get the consistency of a chip without a chip

wilson08 · « **Reply #348 on:** August 28, 2008, 01:01:17 AM »

Quote from: Blazinkaos on August 27, 2008, 06:22:44 PM

In addition has anyone heard if the sleep works perfectly at alll planning on wanting that done...

Yes works perfectly, everytime!

Madmodsmike · « **Reply #349 on:** August 28, 2008, 05:29:55 PM »

Ok so I did this mod (on a wired controller) instead of soldering the wires (because I sux at that) I duct taped them to the circuit board I have the trigger wire placed, however I do not know where the led ground is on a wired board. anyone have a picture they can show labeling an led ground?

Madmodsmike · « **Reply #350 on:** August 28, 2008, 05:55:57 PM »

I take it there is noone who can help?

JWhiteLightning · « **Reply #351 on:** August 28, 2008, 08:21:13 PM »

Hey everyone, i Finally solved my problem, If you are doing this mod, make sure your buttons are direct current. I used 3 AC and none of them worked, then i tried a DC, and it worked. The ones at radioshack are all AC, i think it is like 125VAC, you need the 125VDC for this to work (at least for me, thats what it seemed like).

Like i said, i dont think radio shack has any DC switches.

TweekGeek · « **Reply #352 on:** August 29, 2008, 10:34:19 AM »

I haven't seen a difference between switches. A switch works on either DC or AC. Just make sure the switch can handle the voltage. Now, which mod where you guys talking about that alows you to use the trigger and not install a switch? I've read a reference to it somewhere but can't nail it down. I noticed the trigger soldered directly to the board under the drigger mechanisme so there is no way to seperate the mechanisme without taking the chance of seriously &%*&$*@ up the board or trigger. You would have to seperate the circuit to the trigger and bypass it with a switch. Unless someone has any other ideas?

kink192 · « **Reply #353 on:** August 29, 2008, 06:18:26 PM »

Quote from: TweekGeek on August 29, 2008, 10:34:19 AM

I haven't seen a difference between switches. A switch works on either DC or AC. Just make sure the switch can handle the voltage. Now, which mod where you guys talking about that alows you to use the trigger and not install a switch? I've read a reference to it somewhere but can't nail it down. I noticed the trigger soldered directly to the board under the drigger mechanisme so there is no way to seperate the mechanisme without taking the chance of seriously &%*&$*@ up the board or trigger. You would have to seperate the circuit to the trigger and bypass it with a switch. Unless someone has any other ideas?

its called the sleeper rapid fire mod...its sold on the shop site wired input...

Blazinkaos · « **Reply #354 on:** August 30, 2008, 07:41:31 AM »

Quote

Yes works perfectly, everytime!

Thanks wilson...

mookie123 · « **Reply #355 on:** August 31, 2008, 08:04:54 PM »

Quote from: SYSTEM on July 27, 2008, 06:33:26 PM

KingMike will edit this with the images needed... We have been holding back on this for months now but it is time to stop the bull theives making money off of our members...

how can u tell that a controller is a wireless cg board

KingMike_OS · « **Reply #356 on:** August 31, 2008, 08:19:28 PM »

Ok i think i have a way of doing Rapid Fire On Trigger with no chip .. i have to test it i get back to you guys.

Ok I tested Yup there is way to do No chip rapid fire On Trigger .. heh so it will be sleeper with no external Switch

I will Post Information on this Later. " Note This Will Only Work On Matrix Board Only"

Quote

how can u tell that a controller is a wireless cg board

Here Images of both type of controller old and new :

JWhiteLightning · « **Reply #357 on:** August 31, 2008, 09:26:34 PM »

Wait, so it is supposed to work either DC or AC? WTF? Ive tried 3 different momentary switches (all of which were AC) that were single fire. And they were 125V, so im not worried there. KingMike, what kinda Switch did you use? Ive used 3 different momentaries from radio shack, and even tried a tact from radio shack , none of which worked. Here are the three ive tried, and they were all just single fire(oh, and i tried on both old and new style controllers).

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062539&cp=&sr=1&origkw=momentary+buttons&kw=momentary+buttons&parentPage=search

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062501&cp=&sr=1&origkw=momentary+buttons&kw=momentary+buttons&parentPage=search

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508&cp=&sr=1&origkw=momentary+buttons&kw=momentary+buttons&parentPage=search

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3060978&cp=&sr=1&origkw=tact+switch&kw=tact+switch&parentPage=search

None of em worked, i think im gonna just buy a PIC, woulda been cheaper anyway.

KingMike_OS · « **Reply #358 on:** August 31, 2008, 11:29:47 PM »

I use the switch on 3rd link and 4th link or the one i sell on the website

Hazer · « **Reply #359 on:** September 01, 2008, 07:20:27 AM »

Just a side note:

When a mechanical switch (and these are) says it is 125VAC or 120VDC, it is thier maximum ratings. There is no way to make a switch work on AC or DC only.

Now, the type of switch used can be sloppy for DC switching. The bigger switches tend to have alot of debounce.

News:

Author Topic: Rapid Fire Method (No Chip) (Read 379833 times)