Author Topic: ROL Mimic (Read 10623 times)

Phantom · « **on:** October 05, 2011, 10:21:41 PM »

i want to mimic the flashing/fading LED sequence when the 360 starts up, but have 2-4 LED's for each player LED.

there is a method on x-s forums by grim187, but it does not work correctly.

anyone have any ideas? it would be cool to have the sequence stored on a PIC but id imagine theres alot of coding involved in that.

hyper999 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 06, 2011, 12:55:53 PM »

how does the x-s method not work exactly?

Nevbox · « **Reply #2 on:** October 06, 2011, 01:45:39 PM »

when do you want the leds to start the routine ?
press of a button
when powered
etc...

Phantom · « **Reply #3 on:** October 06, 2011, 05:58:52 PM »

Quote from: hyper999 on October 06, 2011, 12:55:53 PM

how does the x-s method not work exactly?

link to tutorial http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=638208
the tutorial isnt very clear, and is all over the place. i nearly had it working following a diagram that was posted originally, but apparently it was the wrong diagram so he removed it.

this diagram.

Quote from: Nevbox on October 06, 2011, 01:45:39 PM

when do you want the leds to start the routine ?
press of a button
when powered
etc...

when the console is powered on, i want my LED's to mimic the ROL.

i have just found a thread that goes pretty in depth but leads no where

https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=34259.0

hyper999 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 07, 2011, 08:48:02 AM »

so when you wire it up like that diagram shows what doesnt work about it?

Phantom · « **Reply #5 on:** October 07, 2011, 05:13:08 PM »

when the 360 is off, the LEDs are on. and when the sequence is over, all 4 LEDs are still on.

video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QPM9c7JbyY

hyper999 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 08, 2011, 04:24:43 PM »

are you sure you wired it right? seems to me like it is working but the LEDs are inverted for some reason..

DARk_ANGEL · « **Reply #7 on:** October 09, 2011, 10:12:32 AM »

yea the leds should turn of not stay on

Phantom · « **Reply #8 on:** October 09, 2011, 06:46:34 PM »

i will double check my wiring. you guys are right though, it looks like the whole sequence is inverted, they get dimmer as the LED's on the RF board get brighter and are on when they should be off.

Phantom · « **Reply #9 on:** October 13, 2011, 02:43:42 AM »

update: i had one of the transistors backwards, thats why it was inverted.. but 2 of the LED's are still on when they shouldnt be.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFWB_gYNFpY

i thought it could be because im using 5v standby to power the circuit, but that dosnt explain the other LED's working as they should. is there switched 5v somewhere on a jasper board?

theyarealltaken · « **Reply #10 on:** October 13, 2011, 05:03:02 AM »

You got further than I did, I tried a million ways and alot of different switches/transistors to no avail. Fookz on here seemed like he knew what he was talking about in that other tread, I PM'd him but got no reply. I was wanting to replicate exactly what is on the ROL on the top of the xbox case.

Phantom · « **Reply #11 on:** October 13, 2011, 05:20:54 AM »

well if i ever get it working, ill write an indepth tutorial. hopefully someone can help me out, i am nearly there.

hyper999 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 13, 2011, 08:25:59 AM »

Quote from: phantomz0 on October 13, 2011, 05:20:54 AM

well if i ever get it working, ill write an indepth tutorial. hopefully someone can help me out, i am nearly there.

Triple check your wiring? sorry thats all i got for now

theyarealltaken · « **Reply #13 on:** October 13, 2011, 03:37:53 PM »

Sorry for hijacking your thread phantomz0, but we seem to be trying to reach the same goal, so here goes.
I think where we are going wrong is using that schematic, and using that to try to make it work, as grim himself said to me he wasnt sure it was right. So has anyone here with electronics know how, got any insight into this? or have any ideas as how to achieve the same result?
Fooks over on the other thread here suggested using a 4066B instead of the transistors, but never said how to wire it up. Has anyone got any ideas about that either?
Thanks in advance
theyarealltaken

Phantom · « **Reply #14 on:** October 13, 2011, 07:24:24 PM »

thats ok, the more people helping the better.

that schematic i used is the closest ive got to mimicking it properly, i think it just needs some modifications somewhere.

if you take a look at grims tutorial, the picture of the prefboard matches with this schematic, not the picture drawn in paint.

theyarealltaken · « **Reply #15 on:** October 14, 2011, 06:38:52 AM »

Well I've had a few ideas and was thinking down the lines of 2 different routes.
Idea 1:
If pablots schematic of the ROL board is correct, which it probably is, then why can we not just duplicate the circitary from the points where transistors T1 and T2 start.

Idea 2:
Just solder an electronic switch to each LED then when they light up it activates the switch and lights your modded LED. This one seems like the simpler solution to me.

Phantom · « **Reply #16 on:** October 14, 2011, 07:09:06 AM »

i dont have a solid understanding of how the ROL circuit works, so i cant be sure of what is going to work. i will mess around with it in the morning and give it a try.

theyarealltaken · « **Reply #17 on:** October 14, 2011, 07:56:16 AM »

Right I've had a go following the original idea, so I get what looks right when the console boots(its hard to follow because its too quick and I dont have them laid out very good). But LEDs 2 and 4 both light when you connect 1 pad, connect 2 pads 2+4 still lit, connect 3 pads 2+4+1+3 lit, 4 pads same all lit up. Is this what you get? I'm pretty sure this is happening because the LEDS are both connected, and grounded. So to solve this can we not use a switching diode to cut the connection to the other LED? but how would this work with 2-3-4 pads connected?
This all seem way too complicated.
Had another idea too:-
Idea 3:
Can we not just extend the connections from the SMD LEDs? then some how inject more power into the circit? as its been said there wont be enough power for more than a few LEDs.

Hope you have more luck with this than me!

Wish i had a project board, I'm having to solder all these variations, I'm using a few croc clips and wires too which has sped things up.

hyper999 · « **Reply #18 on:** October 14, 2011, 08:33:14 AM »

are the remaining 2 leds fully inverted or are they just on when they shouldnt be?

theyarealltaken · « **Reply #19 on:** October 14, 2011, 08:51:46 AM »

Quote from: hyper999 on October 14, 2011, 08:33:14 AM

are the remaining 2 leds fully inverted or are they just on when they shouldnt be?

On my setup, when no pads are connected, there are no lights on(except D5), when I connect 1 pad. D2 and D4 light up. I connect 1 more pad then I get exactly the same, I connect 3 pads in total, D2, D4, D1 and D3 are all lit, 4 pads again all lit up.

So when D2 lights up it activates D4, It must be the way they are wired.

theyarealltaken · « **Reply #20 on:** October 14, 2011, 09:17:25 AM »

Would this work? or can anyone suggest a way to modify it to work? It uses an Analog Switch a 4066b, as suggested by FOOKz.

DARk_ANGEL · « **Reply #21 on:** October 14, 2011, 01:05:07 PM »

to me it looks like the player 2 led is conected to the power led

Phantom · « **Reply #22 on:** October 14, 2011, 08:15:27 PM »

they arent fully on, but they are still getting power and are glowing. d1 will turn off when you connect a controller, but d4 still glows. they arent inverted. i will try with a switched power source

edit: i tried with switched 3.3v and everything worked as it should, but its not enough voltage and the LED's are really dim. so i guess too much power is getting to those 2 LED's.

theyarealltaken · « **Reply #23 on:** October 15, 2011, 03:46:05 AM »

Looking at that schematic again I think grim was right in saying that its wrong, as its completely backwards. If you flip it horizontally and connect the LEDs to TP7 and TP11 and then the Transistors base leg's to T1 and T2, then you have more or less what is show on the original schematic of the ROL board. Maybe try it out?
Original

Modified

I might give it a try soon.
Edit:
Looking at it again, the collector and emmiter connections need switching for both transistors.
Edit 2:
Realised T1 and T2 base legs are pretty much the same as T3 and T5's collector legs lol.
Edit 3:
Right I've switched E & C Legs, and still get exactly the same results as without any changes. I'm now thinking the ROL circuit is lighting D2 and my circuit is lighting D4, maybe the LEDs are connected wrong? so my D4 is D2 etc (rotated 90 degs), is there anyway to seperate the two circuits?

Phantom · « **Reply #24 on:** October 15, 2011, 05:51:40 AM »

i have tried using grims schematic above, i get nothing. no lights from any of the LEDs. then when you switch the wires around, i get the results like in my video above.

this thing has officially done my head in. lol.

theyarealltaken · « **Reply #25 on:** October 15, 2011, 05:58:20 AM »

Quote from: phantomz0 on October 15, 2011, 05:51:40 AM

i have tried using grims schematic above, i get nothing. no lights from any of the LEDs. then when you switch the wires around, i get the results like in my video above.

this thing has officially done my head in. lol.

I think thats because the voltage has to be higher on that leg for it to work, I got nothing at all with the resistor on the 5v source but without it, i got it to work.
From what ive read the input has to be greater than the base unless it doesnt work.

I'm thinking that the original schematic is wrong lol

Would we not get more responses if we moved this to the electronics projects section also?

Will this work?
Take wires directly from each of the 4 LEDs then run them through a LM324 Quad Opamp which should then provide enough voltage for my modded LEDs.(forget D5 as if the console is on my LED will be light anyway) Would I have to cut the trace for each LED?
Like this

theyarealltaken · « **Reply #26 on:** October 17, 2011, 08:03:58 AM »

Right been messing on again, been using BC807 pnp transistors, 100ohm resistors for RC as thats all i have atm.

I've managed to get my modded LEDs "FULLY working" even when syncing pads, even the ROL board is showing exactly the same as my modded LED's. I don't really underestand why it now works as it looks virtually identical to what was on the original pic posted over on X-S by grim.

Phantom · « **Reply #27 on:** October 17, 2011, 08:21:52 AM »

i will try wiring it up this way, so do your modded LED's work fine when connecting controllers? is it just the LEDs on the RF board that dont work properly?

theyarealltaken · « **Reply #28 on:** October 17, 2011, 08:34:28 AM »

I re-checked my wiring, and found i had soldered the base legs to T3 and T2 by accident, so once i changed to T3 and T5 it worked 100% correct! I changed the above post too to show this. Hope you get yours working, I'm now gonna make this into a Board which is removeable as I dont want to have to de-solder it everytime i need to get inside for repairs/modifications.

Phantom · « **Reply #29 on:** October 18, 2011, 04:33:55 AM »

awesome, well now i know its a problem on my end, i kept getting weird results wiring it that way from what i remember... i will try it out tomorrow, thanks for confirming it works dude.

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Author Topic: ROL Mimic (Read 10623 times)