Author Topic: #7354 Controller Mod FINISHED (Read 15047 times)

Phantom · « **on:** January 14, 2012, 05:28:34 AM »

Here it is... fully functional

- Hazers Flex rapidfire
- internal 1000mah lipo battery
- PSP Analog
- t0pP8uZz LED fader
- t0pP8uZz ABXY flasher
- ROL LED swap
- ABXY LED buttons
- Modded PnC cable for Lipo battery
- 8 blue fading LED's

All crammed into a wired controller shell (no battery compartment), rumble packs are kept intact.

Silvaaa_ - AM_Modoff_final_vid.mp4

good luck to the other contestants!!

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________

*no longer entering 360 console*

*scroll down for controller mod*

*or click here https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,41116.msg311631.html#msg311631*

Stock Falcon 360

Phantom · « **Reply #1 on:** January 26, 2012, 05:16:54 AM »

LPT cable to flash the NAND + Ethernet Jack

Tomorrow i will wire up the ethernet jack, and the JTAG wiring.

Rodent · « **Reply #2 on:** January 26, 2012, 12:17:48 PM »

the ethernet jack is clean and professional looking

Phantom · « **Reply #3 on:** January 27, 2012, 04:24:10 AM »

Jtag wiring + Ethernet jack wired up...

so all looks well, but its not.

I decided to plug it in and test it, before I start dumping/flashing the nand...

Plug it in, turn it on, aaaand... 3 RROD error code 0103

the fans rev up a few times, then the lights start flashing and the GPU heats up but the CPU is cold...

Tomorrow Im going to change the thermal paste on both heatsinks and put a 2nd gen CPU heatsink on the GPU, then i will replace the x-clamps if its still not playing nice.

Rodent · « **Reply #4 on:** January 27, 2012, 08:45:48 AM »

Check your solder points, and it probably did that when you where disturbed the board, by taking it out of the cage, sounds like you got it covered, new thermal paste, and make sure you do both the cpu and gpu while you got it out. then it will be done and will not have to take it apart again. check for any bad caps, could be a cold solder joint under the gpu

snowcolt17 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 27, 2012, 09:17:28 AM »

if it worked fine before jtaging.. its the jtag wiring.make sure there is no bridges. and the small solder point. (forgot what point its called) make sure it has a good connection. you might want to add the 100 ohm resistor where the jumper is. and make sure you used the right diodes and they are good. might have burnt them up soldering.

good luck

Phantom · « **Reply #6 on:** January 27, 2012, 07:59:41 PM »

so today i put the new heatsink on the GPU and replaced the thermal paste on the CPU/GPU

tried to boot it up and still RROD

put the 100 ohm resistor in where the jumper was

still RROD

i removed all the jtag wiring, still RROD

so it looks like im going to have to replace the xclamps, but i know those fixes never last very long.. or reflow the board myself.

any one have any suggestions? the xbox was working perfectly before hand, error code is still 0103

Monk3y · « **Reply #7 on:** January 27, 2012, 08:12:41 PM »

I was going to do the same thing with the heatsinks on one of my xboxs but sadly enough I have to have a cd drive :\ I love the look of those heatsinks though.

Edit: hope you can fix the RROD, would like to see what you did with the whole thing.

Rodent · « **Reply #8 on:** January 27, 2012, 09:18:06 PM »

Did you do what I said? Check for blown capacitors? And yea you can Reflowed the GPU with a blow drier..

Instructions
Disassemble the heat syncs
Clean all the thermal paste off
turn the cage upside down and place the mobo on the bottom side of cage
pre heat the bottom of the board and keep the blow drier about 2 inches from the board get it nice and warm, being its agains the bottome side of the cage, it will keep the heat in the motherboard due to the gage will get warm itsself. after about 10 minutes of warming the back side of the mother bard, carefully flip the mother board over make sure you have gloves or oven mits on will be around 200 degrees,

"heat both sides of the board starting out slowly working the blow drier over the whole board" make sure you still keep it on the bottom part of the cage to keep the heat in the board
Now once the board is up to a warm temputure and you have fliped the board over to the top of the mother board . keeping the blow drier about 1 to 1/12 inches above the CPU and GPU and keep it moving, slowly over that area for about 5 minutes , after that let it sit there do not touch it or move it for a Half hour, once you have completeed this, and the mother board is back to room tempeture you can procedd to apply the thremal paste and reattach the heat syncs , I have done this , before and works, and tested for hours after to see if it would work, I also added 12v fan mod to keep it cool... any questions just reply i will respond, should fix the issue , for a while... I have had them last up to 1 1/2 years with no RROD again, Nephew tested and still working today,
Take the blow drier and heat the cpu and the gpu area equally, this will keep the board from warping.

Make sure you use Artic Silver 5 Thermal paste.

Phantom · « **Reply #9 on:** January 28, 2012, 04:39:23 AM »

Thanks for the informative reply Rodent, I checked for blown capacitors and couldn't see any

ive ordered a kit to replace the x clamps, so when that arrives i will do a reflow.

until then, this project is on hold...

snowcolt17 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 28, 2012, 10:32:16 AM »

funny thing. jtags are funny. no matter what i did it would 3rrod. 0102. got tired. and unjtaged it updated it. and i guess been working since. dunno.

everything looks fine. i dunno what happened?

good luck bro. dont give up

Bonz · « **Reply #11 on:** February 08, 2012, 11:36:19 PM »

rodent a blow dryer doesn't get hot enough to melt the solder he needs a heat gun and some liquid flux

nEoVaLoR · « **Reply #12 on:** February 09, 2012, 12:21:20 AM »

Quote from: Bonz on February 08, 2012, 11:36:19 PM

rodent a blow dryer doesn't get hot enough to melt the solder he needs a heat gun and some liquid flux

Yes it does Bonz. I've done it at least 3 times. Of course a heat gun gets higher temperature, but the blow dryer is good for your first reflow anyways.. really hard to warp a motherboard with a hair dryer.

Bonz · « **Reply #13 on:** February 09, 2012, 05:34:01 AM »

Quote from: nEoVaLoR on February 09, 2012, 12:21:20 AM

Yes it does Bonz. I've done it at least 3 times. Of course a heat gun gets higher temperature, but the blow dryer is good for your first reflow anyways.. really hard to warp a motherboard with a hair dryer.

i find it hard to believe as a hair dryer can't melt solder, try it on normal solder then remember that factory boards use a different solder that melt at a higher temp... nor can it get as hot as the system itself

link for solder melting point http://www.rfcafe.com/references/electrical/solder.htm

the hottest hairdryer i can find anywhere is 160oF

if it worked i'm happy for you but honestly spend the $30 and do it right

Modded Matt · « **Reply #14 on:** February 09, 2012, 05:48:29 AM »

Quote from: snowcolt17 on January 28, 2012, 10:32:16 AM

funny thing. jtags are funny. no matter what i did it would 3rrod. 0102. got tired. and unjtaged it updated it. and i guess been working since. dunno.

everything looks fine. i dunno what happened?

good luck bro. dont give up

told you so...cant believe you updated it.....

Quote from: nEoVaLoR on February 09, 2012, 12:21:20 AM

Of course a heat gun gets higher temperature, but the blow dryer is good for your first reflow anyways.. really hard to warp a motherboard with a hair dryer.

this

Rodent · « **Reply #15 on:** February 09, 2012, 07:23:30 AM »

Quote from: nEoVaLoR on February 09, 2012, 12:21:20 AM

Yes it does Bonz. I've done it at least 3 times. Of course a heat gun gets higher temperature, but the blow dryer is good for your first reflow anyways.. really hard to warp a motherboard with a hair dryer.

thanks for backing me up

Quote from: Bonz on February 09, 2012, 05:34:01 AM

i find it hard to believe as a hair dryer can't melt solder, try it on normal solder then remember that factory boards use a different solder that melt at a higher temp... nor can it get as hot as the system itself

link for solder melting point http://www.rfcafe.com/references/electrical/solder.htm

the hottest hairdryer i can find anywhere is 160oF

if it worked i'm happy for you but honestly spend the $30 and do it right

I spent $10 for a 1875 watt blow drier and I have reflowed motherboards with this, getting temps up to 212F and If you do it the way i instructed.. it works!!!!

Edit Blowdryer was purchased at Target. incase anyone needs one

Phantom · « **Reply #16 on:** February 10, 2012, 01:13:03 AM »

i just replaced the x-clamps with 'Team HYBRID's Ultimate X-Clamp Fix' which did nothing at all, so i will try reflow the board tomorrow.. with a heat gun.

im working on a controller mod as well, so if i cant get this console up and running ill just enter the controller.

Rodent · « **Reply #17 on:** February 10, 2012, 03:23:19 AM »

If you need help just ask...

Phantom · « **Reply #18 on:** February 11, 2012, 04:42:26 AM »

so... i reflowed the board this afternoon and no luck, it still has RROD now the error code is 0022. pretty sure this thing is well and truly dead.

looks like ill be entering a controller mod instead

Rodent · « **Reply #19 on:** February 11, 2012, 04:54:14 AM »

did you use no clean flux? and its not dead you got a bridged solder joint, on the H(ana) chip or GPU .. take the no clean Flux and put it under all 4 corners of the gpu wipe off any excess.... same with the H(ana) chip pre heat the girddle and let it sit till it boils then start your reflow... try to keep the heat even when reflowing this is normal on reflows and do not move the board.. should work out for you

Phantom · « **Reply #20 on:** February 17, 2012, 03:46:10 AM »

Ive started on the controller mod, here is everything i started with

I cut the lipo charger in half to fit it inside the play and charge housing

drilled 2 extra holes for the charging status LED's

Extending the LED's

LED's superglued in place

these pins go inside the slots on the grey connector piece.

here is is all closed up

the battery is 3.6v 1000mah it takes about 3 hours to charge.

the middle LED lights up when its finished charging

the battery will stay where it is, im doing something cool for the d-pad

Phantom · « **Reply #21 on:** March 08, 2012, 12:43:18 AM »

big update, so far this thing has..

ABXY buttons, with ABXY flasher
blue ROL
Flex rapidfire
internal battery

i also mounted a switch where the cord would usually be

ABXY buttons

SOIC PIC12F683 programmed with Flex

Empty footprint, thank you microsoft, and thank you jrfhoutx for the tutorial

here i cut all the traces to the pads

here it is finished, it wasnt easy.

underside of controller and all my wiring, ABXY flasher top right

heres a video to show everything works, you can also see where i mounted the switch with some bondo + paint

http://youtu.be/URzvq3k3OrA

crashmasher · « **Reply #22 on:** March 08, 2012, 06:51:57 AM »

very cool, when this is done be sure to post a tutorial. Looking forward to it all together

Cookie Monster · « **Reply #23 on:** March 08, 2012, 11:49:14 AM »

i know your doning something special with the dpad. but what is it? aaaaggghhhhh tell me. btw nice job i like it

Phantom · « **Reply #24 on:** March 24, 2012, 05:42:26 AM »

Im replacing the d-pad with a psp analog, with alot of trial and error (mostly error) I got it working perfectly

it looks pretty bad because I used magazine paper to transfer the image to the copper, but it worked!

Im going to fill in the surrounding area with bondo and paint over it black..

Rodent · « **Reply #25 on:** March 24, 2012, 07:51:34 AM »

Wiinning controller Mod I would have to say , the time , the effort put in to this will be hard to beat.. Nice job

Phantom · « **Reply #26 on:** March 25, 2012, 09:04:18 PM »

thanks, there are only 2 other controller mods in the mod off... hopefully they post some updates.

I have finished psp analog, it was a bit rushed but I think it turned out ok.

Rodent · « **Reply #27 on:** March 26, 2012, 05:08:09 AM »

Quote from: 7354 on March 25, 2012, 09:04:18 PM

thanks, there are only 2 other controller mods in the mod off... hopefully they post some updat
Quote from: 7354 on March 25, 2012, 09:04:18 PM
there are only 2 other controller mods in the mod off... hopefully they post some updates.
Still working on my controller mod not going so well

Phantom · « **Reply #28 on:** March 27, 2012, 08:51:43 AM »

Here it is... fully functional

- Hazers Flex rapidfire
- internal 1000mah lipo battery
- PSP Analog
- t0pP8uZz LED fader
- t0pP8uZz ABXY flasher
- ROL LED swap
- ABXY LED buttons
- Modded PnC cable for Lipo battery
- 8 blue fading LED's

All crammed into a wired controller shell (no battery compartment), rumble packs are kept intact.

Silvaaa_ - AM_Modoff_final_vid.mp4

good luck to the other contestants!!

Rodent · « **Reply #29 on:** March 27, 2012, 08:59:30 AM »

Awesome Job... really nice clean looking controller good luck , hope you win

drummerdude · « **Reply #30 on:** March 27, 2012, 11:52:42 AM »

Wow! Great job! Those leds looks really nice and clear. The psp d-pad is really cool. i gotta make me one of those! Nice job!

Tracey · « **Reply #31 on:** March 27, 2012, 04:12:24 PM »

Very nice!

Phantom · « **Reply #32 on:** April 01, 2012, 06:10:59 AM »

Quote from: Tracey on March 27, 2012, 04:12:24 PM

Very nice!

Quote from: drummerdude on March 27, 2012, 11:52:42 AM

Wow! Great job! Those leds looks really nice and clear. The psp d-pad is really cool. i gotta make me one of those! Nice job!

^ thanks.

Here are some better pictures.

Tracey · « **Reply #33 on:** April 03, 2012, 10:32:53 AM »

I love this controller, very well done!

Phantom · « **Reply #34 on:** April 03, 2012, 10:42:51 PM »

I will use the vid in the first post as my final video

jrfhoutx · « **Reply #35 on:** April 07, 2012, 06:09:47 PM »

Very nice job on the RF install. Nice to see that get used

My two questions are: where did you end up putting the resistors for the RF? and what's the deal with the green wire from C35 to the ground plane?

Phantom · « **Reply #36 on:** April 07, 2012, 07:24:28 PM »

Quote from: jrfhoutx on April 07, 2012, 06:09:47 PM

Very nice job on the RF install. Nice to see that get used My two questions are: where did you end up putting the resistors for the RF? and what's the deal with the green wire from C35 to the ground plane?

Thanks, I used Flex so it does not need any resistors. In your tutorial it says the 2 upper pads need their traces to be rerouted to ground. C35 is connected to both the traces

jrfhoutx · « **Reply #37 on:** April 07, 2012, 08:55:01 PM »

Quote from: 7354 on April 07, 2012, 07:24:28 PM

Thanks, I used Flex so it does not need any resistors. In your tutorial it says the 2 upper pads need their traces to be rerouted to ground. C35 is connected to both the traces

Ah, OK, I never used flex... Hmmm... I don't remember doing that, but then again it's been a while since I've done this, I guess I need to re-read my own tut, lol

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Author Topic: #7354 Controller Mod *FINISHED* (Read 15047 times)

Author Topic: #7354 Controller Mod FINISHED (Read 15047 times)