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looks like you are gonna have to go through all the timing files. and i would use the 28 gauge for the ground. but in the case of xbox slims, a dgx or rgx conversion is best used for key retrieval.
Ok Razzle-Dazzle. Just Be Prepared When They Ask For Better Pics. loL. They Can be Brutal but Very Helpful Over There.
Just Rewrite Your Orogonal Nand Back And See If It Boots Normally. Of Cours Disconmect THe coolrunner. Also Did You Convert The Dgx Into A Rgx? No Rgx Comes.In A Box, Lol. You Would Program The Dgx Like You Would A Coolrunner, Except You Would Choose The Rgx Files For The Corona Board.
Flash Your Original Nanf From When.you Initially Dumped The Nand. That Is Your Orginal. Flash That To See.if.Your Stock Nand Still Boots Nornally.First. Then Try The Rgx Ecc With The Dgx.
no, you dont need the coolrunner to dump your nand.
kool that you got it fixed, but you still dont need a coolrunner to read/write the nand or ecc.
Take pictures of your setup, use the macro/flower options on your camera.
Added a selectable 5ohm and 10ohm resistor to post_out (simple solder jumpers 1 Closed: 10ohm, 2 Closed: 5ohm, 3 Closed: 0ohm Default)Removed JTAG pin header (Programming is not required - some users tried to program their DGX and damaged it)My preferred settings for Corona were: D: 10cm IPEX to C5R11, C: Default wire, No Cap Installed, 10ohm
this is one of tx preferred method. not mine, but i do use their method. just remember to use your com port usb cable.
ok, what did you flash to your xbox? and is the dgx still a dgx or did you convert it to an rgx. im just covering all the basics.
just trying to back trace everything you did. thats all. as for the rrod, double check all your soldering. and what ecc did you flash?i would go ahead and flash the dgx to an rgxthis is important, only flash one of the following, cor_A B or C. ignore the rest. dont even try to flash any other files.