XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537

[Sagafredo]

Guys, need a hand in here.

Long time ago I fix my XB Elite  Controller but I rip off the part accidentally the C2 capacitor and I'm trying to replace it.
Was lookin the diagram of XB1 controller and its the same capacitor but I I'm not sure the value of it, if some can help me with deal with this problem.
(I don't know if even necessary the C2 capacitor)

[dj_amir]

Hi friends
What is the value of c6 and c7 capacitors?

https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1537TBT.jpg

[RDC]

@ Sagafredo - C2 is 4.7uF, 16v or more. Not really necessary to replace it.

@ dj_amir - C6 is 16uF, C7 is 100nF

[Kimirafer]

Hi, I've been converting my xbox one controller (model 1537) to usb-c. Sadly I ripped the pads when removing the micro usb port. I found the first components in line, so I connected the power line to C2, D- to R2, D+ to R3 and ground to C4. When I attach it to my pc, it vibrates, so at least it's getting power. It only attempts to find an xbox, so the wired data connection doesn't work. Any ideas what the issue could be?

[RDC]

There is literally 0 benefit to changing that port to USB-C, and using an adapter cable would have saved you the arse ache.

Said ground to C4, but not which side. If it's on the wrong side then you have D- shorted to ground. Ground it to the left side of C2 or one of the mounting solder lugs of LB.

Try wiring just a USB cable up and seeing if that works.

[Dark Knight_TJ]

Sir, what part number d22 , q6 and q7 are? . Thanks in avance

[RDC]

D22, no idea on the exact specs. It is some kind of switching diode. Best to get one from a scrap board if you need to replace it. Q6 and Q7 are shown in the schematic.

[Dark Knight_TJ]

Thanks. For d22 used 1n4148ws sod123 1206 and for now seems  to work. Should I keep using it that way or should I look for original part?

[RDC]

Without knowing the original diode specs it's hard to say, as that that could be big enough, or it might be too small current wise. I'd probably look for a donor board to get another diode from just so it was correct. D23 is the same diode on that board also, and just about every version of the top board will have one that could be used as a replacement, so don't limit yourself to looking for a donor 1537 if you go that way.

[Dark Knight_TJ]

Thanks boss, would keep that in mind (dont  have donor boards)

[Worf]

Hi. I have  buttons X,A,Y that don't  register only B button works. I changed the rubber button pad, same problem. Checked the vias, I have all the continuities showed in the schematic of the first page. What to check next?

[RDC]

If the traces are all good and grounds are good, then the MCU is suspect.

[Worf]

Hi. What's the value of R13? ( marked with red arrow)

[RDC]

That value is in the schematic.

[jetuaime81]

I would like to know the value of c33 (near the magnetic hall effect IC). And also i knocked off L18 and C95 (near the crystal) on the small board with XBOX ic, those values are also needed. Can I short L18?

[RDC]

C33 is 1uF

L18 and C95 are in the RF filter, you'll need to get those from another controller so the values are correct.

[jetuaime81]

Thankyou. I don't have another controller. I will try bridging the inductor and ignoring the cap.

[hurricanemaiden]

Can someone help me? I have a control of this 1537, which the left analog stick keeps pulling down even after changing the part and cleaning the board, could you help me to solve this problem?

[hurricanemaiden]

https://imgur.com/a/5p4YzIl

[RDC]

Looks like drift. There are several ways to go about correcting that, do a search and pick your flavor.

[blinkerss]

Is it possible and safe to tied the output of U2 and U3 together?, Since they both have quite the same output voltage range.

Thanks

[RDC]

I wouldn't. What possible reason could you have for wanting to do that?

[blinkerss]

I've got an 1537 with shorted U2, and while waiting for the replacement IC, I'm thinking to try to used the output of U3 to power the U2 line, for the sake of just powering the 1537 and used it for a while.

[RDC]

U2 only powers the LED and Rumble motors, the controller should still be working fine, minus those things.

[blinkerss]

Hmm, so basically the 1537 (and maybe 1708?) only need U3 to powered up?, Since we can removed the U1 if only using battery, and we can removed the U2 if we dont need any led and vibration?

[RDC]

Yep, but then you have no idea if the controller is on, syncing or blinking for some other reason. Speaking 1537 only here, if you don't want to install U2, you could disable the Ruble motors by removing Q10, then you could jumper the output of U3 to the output line for U2 and get the LED power working, albeit 0.2v less so it'll be a shade dimmer. I wouldn't jumper U3 out to U2 out with all of the Rumble motors being able to be active as it's not going to like powering all of that at the same time.

[blinkerss]

Thanks for the suggestion RDC!, I'll try the blind (no led) 1537 test first 

Another question, what will happen if I flip the position of R34 and R35?, Both is removed along with the U2 when i'm trying to find the culprit of dead 1537, and its very difficult to hold and test those ultra tiny resistor with DMM

[RDC]

Do not get those mixed up, they set the feedback voltage for U3, which it uses to set the output voltage. R34 is 340k, R35 is 190k. If you install those backwards the thing will not output 3.3v, it will be closer to 1.8v if that happens.

[blinkerss]

1. i've tried to powered the 1537 with only U3 installed (U1 and U2 is omitted), and push the GUIDE button and connect it to PC via cable and/or XBOX wireless receiver
result: it doesnt show up in PC

2. i shorted the C26 and C16, U3 now is powering also U2 line
result: when i push the GUIDE button, the led is flash ONE time, and not blinking just like normal xbox do (but at least something is happening LOL), and the U3 getting kinda warm

does maybe the R34 and R35 that (maybe) flipped cause this?, or its just U3 can't handle to power 2 line at a time?

[RDC]

See the above post about R34/R35.

Each of those Caps have 2 connections, one side being ground, and no idea how you 'shorted' those together, so you may have something shorted to ground. Already said that I wouldn't do the U3/U2 thing, unless you pull Q10 first so the Rumble circuit gets no power.