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As promised here is the Trigger fix. The gist of the fix is to tie a 3.3v source to a 10K resistor. You then splice the other side of the resistor to two wires. One wire solders to the bottom pads of the RC filter and the other wire goes out to the signal side of your RT/LT buttons. The two IC's on the PCB make a real nice non-conductive pad to hot-glue the 10K resistors to.Although I removed the Sensor, the Bypass Cap, the RC filter and the cubes, the ONLY required things to remove for this fix is the RC filter, i.e. one tiny cap and one tiny resistor. The easiest and safest way to remove these is to lie your soldering iron's tip across the top of the element so that it heats both sides simultaneously. Make sure you tin your tip with a bit of solder to get the best heat transfer. If you do it right, the little guys will move off the pads quite easily. If you have some solder wick I recommend cleaning the pads off with the wick to get the surface nice and clean. When that's done, just put a small dab of solder on the two bottom pads of the RC filter as that is where you'll tie to.A word to the wise, even though I removed my cubes I recommend that you do NOT, there is no real reason to unless you do something stupid like I did which was cut the little white straps that go on either side of the sticks. Don't cut those! Those tie directly to the potentiometer in the cube and when cut will easily move causing all sorts of weird directions to happen. If you're the type that likes a challenge or likes the clean look with no cubes then use 5K resistors, not 10K. Although the potentiometers in the cubes are indeed 10K, that's measured across the entire pot but we are replacing the pot with two discrete resistors so we should be using 5K to mimic exactly what the cubes are doing. If you don't have any 5K's lying around don't worry about it, it doesn't really seem to make that much of a difference but if you're going to go out to buy some resistors you might as well get the 5K's.
do not modify your OP when people have responded to your request. I dont have time to look over the entire post. I restored it so the thread makes since. All I am going to say is there are some very..questionable practices going on here. for newbies, dont glue to the main IC's.... they are heat sensitive. the xbox one controller is filled with open space.
All I am going to say is there are some very..questionable practices going on here. for newbies, dont glue to the main IC's.... they are heat sensitive. the xbox one controller is filled with open space.
I don't think it's questionable at all. Obviously these IC's had to survive a reflow profile (see below) which peaks at 260 *C and that's after enduring a 60 soak at almost 200 *C. Consumer grade hot glue melts at ~127 *C and industrial high-temp glue melts at ~194 *C; both well below the reflow temp of the solder. You are, of course, free to glue it to where ever your heart desires.
Keep in mind I have personally ripped components straight off of PCB's removing hot glue, admittedly not IC's, but its good practice to make things simple and safe to remove.
your comparing a reflow of the whole board, to applying direct heat to only a small portion of the IC. not the same. While all of this may work fine without any issues, gluing to the IC's is bad
gluing your solder joints on top of the joint or as close to it as you have is bad
standing the resistors up off the board is bad
your wiring practices are bad.
you may have fixed one problem, but have opened up other potential issues.
That method does not turn it into any kind of pull down Trigger at all, as that's what it already is.
Removing the RC filter does nothing at all but take the Hall Sensor out of the circuit, which has an output of ~1.6v, not the 3.3v that the 10k Pull-Up is letting in there. That method is flawed and more work than necessary, not to mention possibly damaging to the Analog lines over time.
As has already been stated in the first reply to this topic, just solder the new buttons to the LT and RT lines, then the other side of them to Ground, done. The 10ohm Resistor is optional, and only 1 of them needs to be used if it is. No removing components, half the wiring, and no Resistor unless you want to use it.