Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1697 (Read 58049 times)

skysheep132 · « **Reply #30 on:** November 18, 2019, 01:36:09 AM »

ah found it... but looks to be cracked so have replaced, now the controller turns on batterys but the led will only stay lit for one blink then shuts off.

MikDundee · « **Reply #31 on:** March 27, 2020, 10:50:18 AM »

hi i have a problem on a left stick always on up permanently showing on the controller test. right next to the left stick y axis the pads at cap c20 have came off the board so i moved the cap to d18 right next it to it which seems connected and in line to me ( could be wrong?) any ideas? cheers

i read that a capacitor short circuit in line can cause this but i have replaced this with no joy

(also on one of the y axis joints (top one of three holes in pic) on the 1697 mcu top side one of the holes half of the copper has come away can this effect it? if so where would the jump wire go? if needed)

Sandovalsandiaz32 · « **Reply #32 on:** June 26, 2020, 12:11:35 PM »

Where can find the test point for LB button? doesn't work and i change the button

RDC · « **Reply #33 on:** June 26, 2020, 06:01:09 PM »

@ MikDundee - LSY always up is either a short from LSY line to ground or the AN+ of LSY (bottom lead) is open and the 1.8v is not getting to the POT.

@ Sandovalsandiaz32 - TP43 is LB

Sandovalsandiaz32 · « **Reply #34 on:** July 03, 2020, 10:36:41 AM »

Really tanks...

shredderisawesome · « **Reply #35 on:** July 28, 2020, 05:29:40 AM »

hi @RDC

what is the component labeled as q9 on power board and q1 on MCU board?

is it a transistor or mosfet? its behaving like N channel mosfet because when i touch black probe of multimeter on top single pin (drain) and red probe on right bottom pin (source) multimeter is reading 0.5v in diode mode.

i went over your pcb schematic of power board of 1537 controller and you labeled q9 on power board as N channel transistor. i have two faulty 1697 controllers and on both q9 on power board is acting like N channel mosfet like how i described above. q1 on MCU board is also the same component as q9 on power board.

thanks in advance

wickated · « **Reply #36 on:** July 28, 2020, 06:03:13 AM »

Quote from: shredderisawesome on July 28, 2020, 05:29:40 AM

is it a transistor or mosfet? its behaving like N channel mosfet because when i touch black probe of multimeter on top single pin (drain) and red probe on right bottom pin (source) multimeter is reading 0.5v in diode mode.

fets are driven by capacitance, diodes are in bipolar transistors

RDC · « **Reply #37 on:** July 28, 2020, 08:07:34 AM »

@ shredderisawesome - It's an N channel FET, which is just turning a ground on/off. I'll update the schematic when I have time, but functionally there's no difference since it's just being used as a switch. Test it out of circuit and the meter will be able to turn it on.

@ wickated - FETs are voltage driven and some have a body diode that will be measured when checking the DS of them.

shredderisawesome · « **Reply #38 on:** July 28, 2020, 02:52:28 PM »

thank you for your quick reply @RDC

if q9 is just for switching purpose, can i install any N channel transistor like for example MMBT3904 or i should stick with N channel FET?

if i should stick with N channel Mosfet which model should i use? is Fairchild BSS123 good replacement in your opinion?

thanks again for taking out the time to help others.

RDC · « **Reply #39 on:** July 28, 2020, 03:38:27 PM »

Are you sure they are bad? A FET will measure kind of weird if you're more used to checking Transistors. With them on the board there the Gate will always be loaded down and they will not turn on, so about all you'll really be able to measure is the body diode in there. Whereas checking them off the board with a DMM alone you can turn them on with the Diode/Continuity check so that 0.5v will measure as a dead short when it turns on then go back to ~0.5v when you turn it off, then you'll know it's good, but they can't be checked in circuit for any fault but a dead short most times. If the only measurement you're getting is that 0.5v from Drain to Source then they're probably alright.

shredderisawesome · « **Reply #40 on:** July 28, 2020, 03:55:35 PM »

@RDC

I'm suspecting they're faulty because I'm getting 1.9v between gate and drain when i checked with my multimeter in diode mode. other same N channel mosfet (q1 on MCU board) isn't showing this voltage between gate and drain pin.

i have ordered a SMD rework station to help take that FET out. it'll take 4-5 days shipping and then I'll be able to take out that FET and do proper test on it

still i would like to be prepared and know what exact model of N channel mosfet i can use as replacement if that FET turn out to be faulty.

RDC · « **Reply #41 on:** July 28, 2020, 04:36:34 PM »

That BSS123 should be fine.

shredderisawesome · « **Reply #42 on:** July 28, 2020, 04:53:30 PM »

thanks @RDC

you're a Godsend blessing on this forum

shredderisawesome · « **Reply #43 on:** July 30, 2020, 04:03:42 AM »

hi again @RDC

I've got a 1697 controller that isn't turning on both on battery and PC USB.

I've measured voltages on J1 pin

pin 1 shows 3.3V

pin 8 shows 5V

pin 11 shows nothing

I've even measured voltages on testing points on MCU board

TP5 shows 5V

TP9 shows 3.3V

TP21 shows GND

so that means, imo, that MCU board is getting the power from power board.

I've checked every capacitor and diode nothing looks to be faulty.

any idea why this controller does not want to turn on?

thanks in advance

RDC · « **Reply #44 on:** July 30, 2020, 03:21:46 PM »

Could be R24, R27, R29, Q8, Q9. Something in that area there is where I'd start.

gremlins · « **Reply #45 on:** November 14, 2020, 05:30:50 AM »

I have a 1697 that powers via USB but not by battery. It flashes once then the second flash simply fades. Tested the power boards with my tester boards and they work.fine. The fault must be on the MCU board. Any advice?

RDC · « **Reply #46 on:** November 14, 2020, 07:30:02 AM »

Does another know good Button/Power board do the same thing on that MCU board?

gremlins · « **Reply #47 on:** November 14, 2020, 07:39:44 AM »

I tried alternate boards for the power board, the original and tester, both did the same. Repeated with my good MCU tester board and that was fine with both power board with USB and battery power.

Looks to be the original MCU board is the issue, just cant locate it

RDC · « **Reply #48 on:** November 14, 2020, 07:58:42 AM »

Any corrosion or water damage on the MCU board? That BGA chip can get a mess under it and cause issues.

J5 pin 11 on the MCU board is the signal that turns the power on/off to the top board when ran from battery power, but that most likely goes directly to the MCU the same as the 1537. Worth a look around there to see if that trace is broken or if there's something else on that line on the 1697.

gremlins · « **Reply #49 on:** November 16, 2020, 04:01:50 AM »

You were spot on with the BGA chip, reworked it and boom battery power, now I have an audio issue, really bad screeching using both the adaptor and jack. I suspect I set my rework station a touch high and damaged a component. Which component controls the headphone output and what can you recommend?

EDIT check that, sorted

I am really impressed with the BGA advice

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #50 on:** December 12, 2020, 11:10:16 PM »

General question - does anyone have advice on how to most easily desolder the analog stick modules on this board? My fancy Hakko FR-300 desolder gun works perfectly on the 1537 and 1708 models, but for reasons I can?t explain it has a really tough time pulling the solder from this board. I am using rosin core flux and even mixing in leaded solder to each joint, and applying heat with a heat gun, but it is still unbelievably difficult to desolder.

LethalPrime · « **Reply #51 on:** December 13, 2020, 02:11:37 AM »

Quote from: Greendaycolt on December 12, 2020, 11:10:16 PM

General question - does anyone have advice on how to most easily desolder the analog stick modules on this board? My fancy Hakko FR-300 desolder gun works perfectly on the 1537 and 1708 models, but for reasons I can?t explain it has a really tough time pulling the solder from this board. I am using rosin core flux and even mixing in leaded solder to each joint, and applying heat with a heat gun, but it is still unbelievably difficult to desolder.

You?re not getting it hot enough, the other models are single sided pads, this version is through hole dual layered pads. Up the temp to setting 2 750f

wickated · « **Reply #52 on:** December 13, 2020, 02:15:39 AM »

Quote from: Greendaycolt on December 12, 2020, 11:10:16 PM

General question - does anyone have advice on how to most easily desolder the analog stick modules on this board? My fancy Hakko FR-300 desolder gun works perfectly on the 1537 and 1708 models, but for reasons I can?t explain it has a really tough time pulling the solder from this board. I am using rosin core flux and even mixing in leaded solder to each joint, and applying heat with a heat gun, but it is still unbelievably difficult to desolder.

its same quality. its not even fiberglass, unlike really high quality elite boards

RDC · « **Reply #53 on:** December 13, 2020, 05:19:58 AM »

Depends if you care about the component(s) you are removing or not.

If you are after removing it undamaged to do some other repairs and plan to reinstall it, or need the component for something else, as mentioned you need more heat (or more time on the solder joint to allow the heat you are applying to get in there) but not so much you start to nuke the plastic bits.

If you don't care one fig about the component in question, then take the side cutters or Dremel and cut off disc to any leads of it, far enough away from the board that you don't cause more headache though. Then all you have to desolder are what is left of the leads, which will take less heat to do.

evlshdw · « **Reply #54 on:** February 18, 2021, 10:27:36 PM »

Some one can tell me the value of the R71 Resistor?

RDC · « **Reply #55 on:** February 19, 2021, 01:34:44 AM »

R71 = 66.5k, 0.5% or better

JvB · « **Reply #56 on:** February 28, 2021, 06:41:35 AM »

Hello,

First of all; thanks for all the information in this topic.

I bought a 1697 controller with a broken bumper (plastic button was cracked). After connecting it to the Xbox, the right trigger was also constantly 100%. I replaced the right Hall effect sensor and replace the bumper button and everything was working again. So, the first problems were solved.

After playing about 24 hours (in total) with the controller, the character in the game began to shoot the whole time (right trigger 100% again). I thought that is was maybe a solder joint or something from the replaced Hall effect sensor. When I connected the controller to the PC, I discovered that the left and the right trigger were 100% the whole time (second problem).
I did some measurements with a multimeter and saw that the VDD from both the Hall effect sensors were way to low (about 0.22V). V_IN of U9 is 3.3V (OK), but V_OUT of U9 is 0.23V, which is too low (see picture).

I am not an electronic engineer, but I think U9 is defective. Or could there be another problem? I find it strange that this happens not so long after everything worked well with the replaced Hall effect sensor. Maybe I did something wrong.

Link to the picture: https://www.mediafire.com/file/bmg9zu9nqz2c3o1/Hall_Effect_Sensor_Problem_XBox_Controller_1697.jpg/file

Thanks in advance.

Greetings.

RDC · « **Reply #57 on:** February 28, 2021, 07:45:49 AM »

If you are measuring that with a DMM that will not really be accurate enough to see exactly what is going on there. You need to put a scope on there to really see what the actual U9 Output is doing because the Enable line of that thing is turned on/off 125 times per second by the MCU, so the Output is also turned on/off 125 times per second.

Could be a leaky or shorted cap on the Output of U9 dragging the voltage down or a bad Hall sensor doing it or as you mentioned U9 could also have petered out.

JvB · « **Reply #58 on:** February 28, 2021, 09:16:34 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 28, 2021, 07:45:49 AM

If you are measuring that with a DMM that will not really be accurate enough to see exactly what is going on there. You need to put a scope on there to really see what the actual U9 Output is doing because the Enable line of that thing is turned on/off 125 times per second by the MCU, so the Output is also turned on/off 125 times per second.

Could be a leaky or shorted cap on the Output of U9 dragging the voltage down or a bad Hall sensor doing it or as you mentioned U9 could also have petered out.

Thank you for the fast answer. I understand you. I'm going to look into it.

grizzco · « **Reply #59 on:** March 13, 2021, 06:57:36 PM »

Hi! I've recently got into repairing controllers, so I'm pretty new to this. First I'd like to thank you for creating this great resource for people who have questions. I recently have accidentally removed pads (LSX & one of the LSCs) from the left joystick area. I tried wiring some jumpers from the LSC to TP106 and LSX to TP100. The fix for the LSC worked fine but I'm still having problems with the LSX. Now the left stick on my controller constantly reads up and the right stick constantly reads up and to the left. I'm curious if this is something I can fix, or if I tried fixing it until it broke. Thanks again!
-GZ

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1697 (Read 58049 times)