Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 427011 times)

RDC · « **Reply #300 on:** June 03, 2020, 07:04:18 PM »

If you mean RSC (called R3 on the Sony controllers) then there has to be a short on the RSC button line somewhere or the MCU has a weird issue. Have you replaced the stick or done anything to this controller? I've seen the button in the stick get corrosion in it and that Resistance is enough to register a button press.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #301 on:** June 03, 2020, 07:07:52 PM »

Quote from: RDC on June 03, 2020, 07:04:18 PM

If you mean RSC (called R3 on the Sony controllers) then there has to be a short on the RSC button line somewhere or the MCU has a weird issue. Have you replaced the stick or done anything to this controller? I've seen the button in the stick get corrosion in it and that Resistance is enough to register a button press.

Indeed. The RSC, I replaced over 3 modules on this board already and still the same.

RDC · « **Reply #302 on:** June 03, 2020, 07:10:58 PM »

Remove the stick and measure the Resistance of the spots for the RSC. See if there's a dead short or some value there.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #303 on:** June 03, 2020, 07:11:34 PM »

Quote from: RDC on June 03, 2020, 07:10:58 PM

Remove the stick and measure the Resistance of the spots for the RSC. See if there's a dead short or some value there.

Alright

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #304 on:** June 03, 2020, 07:27:11 PM »

Quote from: RDC on June 03, 2020, 07:10:58 PM

Remove the stick and measure the Resistance of the spots for the RSC. See if there's a dead short or some value there.

Also @ RDC, what would be the test point to jumper the RSX to from the wiper leg on the POT?

RDC · « **Reply #305 on:** June 03, 2020, 07:29:09 PM »

It's on page 1 of this thread, RSX - TP66.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #306 on:** June 04, 2020, 04:50:40 PM »

Quote from: RDC on June 03, 2020, 07:29:09 PM

It's on page 1 of this thread, RSX - TP66.

Thank you @ RDC, also regarding the board with the RSC issue definitely an open trace.

JadaFam · « **Reply #307 on:** June 04, 2020, 10:01:13 PM »

I used this thread to replace the left joystick on the slim 1708. It was my first time so I lifted some pads and had to use jumper wires front he joystick pin to the board. All was good for about a week but then the Y motion stopped working. I thought maybe my jumper, which had a cut in the insulation so I replaced it. Now the Y doesn't work and the X is glitched moving back and forth quickly.

I saw an older post that had something similar and they had an issue with TP64. I see I messed up TP64 could that be the issue?

JadaFam · « **Reply #308 on:** June 04, 2020, 10:18:48 PM »

Here is a picture

https://postimg.cc/jLdhFv2G

RDC · « **Reply #309 on:** June 05, 2020, 01:39:12 AM »

The reason LSX is glitch now is because TP64 is missing. The trace runs thru it, so it's basically open now and 'floating' so it done' know which way to go. Solder a jumper wire from the center lead of the LSX POT to the solder joint that is just below where TP64 used to be. Directly between the 64 in TP64, go straight down from there.

For LSY, clean up those bottom 2 solder joints of the POT first. Then solder a wire from the center lead of that POT to the solder joint just to the right of the one you just did for for LSX above. IF the bottom lead can't be reconnected to the via, you can solder it to the left one of the LSX POT or to TP103.

JadaFam · « **Reply #310 on:** June 08, 2020, 07:34:12 AM »

I am also having issues with the 2 points highlighted here ( https://ibb.co/3T9frkC ) It looks like both points go to the via between them but is there another point where the can go? I’m not sure which PIN numbers those are.

Thank you

RDC · « **Reply #311 on:** June 08, 2020, 10:09:13 AM »

Solder a jumper wire from TP42 to either one of the solder joints you circled there, doesn't matter which one.

JadaFam · « **Reply #312 on:** June 09, 2020, 07:34:37 PM »

Awesome, it’s working now, thank you for your help on this.

RDC · « **Reply #313 on:** June 10, 2020, 03:31:59 AM »

Welcome.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #314 on:** June 17, 2020, 06:30:07 PM »

Quote from: RDC on June 10, 2020, 03:31:59 AM

Welcome.

Hello RDC, I have a controller (1708 as this thread) which has the “menu” button constantly on, I already tried with a new contact/ rubber pad without luck. Therefore should be a short on the capacitor, I tried following the trace and I’d like to confirm with you if is either the C1 or L1. Or if is not a capacitor short where to jump the button?

Thanks in advance.

RDC · « **Reply #315 on:** June 18, 2020, 03:14:30 PM »

No idea how you came to that conclusion, C1 and L1 are around the AA battery terminals, they don't have anything to do with Menu button at all.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #316 on:** June 18, 2020, 03:23:50 PM »

Quote from: RDC on June 18, 2020, 03:14:30 PM

No idea how you came to that conclusion, C1 and L1 are around the AA battery terminals, they don't have anything to do with Menu button at all.

Ok, where should I look in order to fix this? The menu button is constantly on/ pressed.

RDC · « **Reply #317 on:** June 18, 2020, 05:24:29 PM »

The Menu button trace runs right to pin 8 of U4. If there's no short on the trace anywhere then suspect U4.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #318 on:** June 18, 2020, 06:42:59 PM »

Quote from: RDC on June 18, 2020, 05:24:29 PM

The Menu button trace runs right to pin 8 of U4. If there's no short on the trace anywhere then suspect U4.

Sir... you’re the legend! Indeed it was u4 just worked the solder on the pins and VOILÀ!

Thank you RDC

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #319 on:** June 18, 2020, 07:06:06 PM »

Quote from: Samuelmorin on June 18, 2020, 06:42:59 PM

Sir... you’re the legend! Indeed it was u4 just worked the solder on the pins and VOILÀ!

Thank you RDC

Aaaand I celebrated too early. After I put the controller back together. Left it on for a couple of minutes and..... the issue came back, the controller stays fine for a while and then the menu button starts coming on and off flickering for moments and then goes back to normal

Nick_Sparkle · « **Reply #320 on:** June 28, 2020, 07:24:44 AM »

the guide button is not regestering on my 1708 controller, goes to d4, how can i get this to be reconised again please? thank you in advance

RDC · « **Reply #321 on:** June 28, 2020, 10:27:53 AM »

D4 is connected to the View button not Guide.

Nick_Sparkle · « **Reply #322 on:** July 02, 2020, 04:03:17 AM »

ah sorry, its all new to me, how can i get the view button working, im getting continuity to the D4.Thank you for your time once again

RDC · « **Reply #323 on:** July 02, 2020, 07:36:14 PM »

Check the Resistance from TP25 to ground with the View button unpressed, then with it pressed. If the value does not change then the trace is broken between TP25 and the View button, or you're not pressing the View button.

If the value does change from some high value (unpressed) to around 200 ohms or less (pressed) then the trace from View to TP25 is good. Check the Resistance from U4 pin 15 to Ground and press View again. If it does not change value the trace is broken between TP25 and pin 15. If it does change value then suspect U4 is the issue.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #324 on:** July 20, 2020, 06:50:46 PM »

Hello RDC, I have a 1708 which has the D-pad up always registering as pressed, what would be your guess? Capacitor issue or jumper the trace?

RDC · « **Reply #325 on:** July 20, 2020, 08:17:30 PM »

If it's always pressed then make sure the membrane isn't worn out and the thing still 'snaps' on and off. Ohm out TP16 to ground and see what it measures pressed and unpressed, controller off and top board disconnected from bottom board.

If TP16 to ground always measures 0ohms then look for a short to ground on the DU line.

If there is no short and TP16 to ground measures normal (high resistance unpressed, low resistance pressed) then I'd suspect that U4 is the issue.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #326 on:** July 20, 2020, 09:21:05 PM »

Alright. Will do

Sandovalsandiaz32 · « **Reply #327 on:** July 29, 2020, 08:49:55 AM »

Good day, i have a controller 1708 working perfect, but only with baterries, in the pin 2 on j1 the voltaje decrease... Someone can help me?

RDC · « **Reply #328 on:** July 29, 2020, 10:19:44 AM »

Pin 2 of J1 is the Guide button, not sure what you're trying to look for there.

U2 and U3 get their power from U1 when connected to USB, or the battery when used wireless. Check R1 and then U1 and it's support components. That U1 regulator takes the 5v from the USB and knocks it down to 3v for U2 and U3 to use, so there's an issue whit it or whit the 5v getting to U1.

Sandovalsandiaz32 · « **Reply #329 on:** July 29, 2020, 01:16:57 PM »

hanks for the quick reply, i will try.

I have another control that the LSC does not work, I put a bridge to the TP42 and it does not work either, it can help me, it is driving me crazy, thanks for everything

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 427011 times)