Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 219029 times)

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #300 on:** June 03, 2020, 07:27:11 PM »

Quote from: RDC on June 03, 2020, 07:10:58 PM

Remove the stick and measure the Resistance of the spots for the RSC. See if there's a dead short or some value there.

Also @ RDC, what would be the test point to jumper the RSX to from the wiper leg on the POT?

RDC · « **Reply #301 on:** June 03, 2020, 07:29:09 PM »

It's on page 1 of this thread, RSX - TP66.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #302 on:** June 04, 2020, 04:50:40 PM »

Quote from: RDC on June 03, 2020, 07:29:09 PM

It's on page 1 of this thread, RSX - TP66.

Thank you @ RDC, also regarding the board with the RSC issue definitely an open trace.

JadaFam · « **Reply #303 on:** June 04, 2020, 10:01:13 PM »

I used this thread to replace the left joystick on the slim 1708. It was my first time so I lifted some pads and had to use jumper wires front he joystick pin to the board. All was good for about a week but then the Y motion stopped working. I thought maybe my jumper, which had a cut in the insulation so I replaced it. Now the Y doesn't work and the X is glitched moving back and forth quickly.

I saw an older post that had something similar and they had an issue with TP64. I see I messed up TP64 could that be the issue?

JadaFam · « **Reply #304 on:** June 04, 2020, 10:18:48 PM »

Here is a picture

https://postimg.cc/jLdhFv2G

RDC · « **Reply #305 on:** June 05, 2020, 01:39:12 AM »

The reason LSX is glitch now is because TP64 is missing. The trace runs thru it, so it's basically open now and 'floating' so it done' know which way to go. Solder a jumper wire from the center lead of the LSX POT to the solder joint that is just below where TP64 used to be. Directly between the 64 in TP64, go straight down from there.

For LSY, clean up those bottom 2 solder joints of the POT first. Then solder a wire from the center lead of that POT to the solder joint just to the right of the one you just did for for LSX above. IF the bottom lead can't be reconnected to the via, you can solder it to the left one of the LSX POT or to TP103.

JadaFam · « **Reply #306 on:** June 08, 2020, 07:34:12 AM »

I am also having issues with the 2 points highlighted here ( https://ibb.co/3T9frkC ) It looks like both points go to the via between them but is there another point where the can go? I’m not sure which PIN numbers those are.

Thank you

RDC · « **Reply #307 on:** June 08, 2020, 10:09:13 AM »

Solder a jumper wire from TP42 to either one of the solder joints you circled there, doesn't matter which one.

JadaFam · « **Reply #308 on:** June 09, 2020, 07:34:37 PM »

Awesome, it’s working now, thank you for your help on this.

RDC · « **Reply #309 on:** June 10, 2020, 03:31:59 AM »

Welcome.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #310 on:** June 17, 2020, 06:30:07 PM »

Quote from: RDC on June 10, 2020, 03:31:59 AM

Welcome.

Hello RDC, I have a controller (1708 as this thread) which has the “menu” button constantly on, I already tried with a new contact/ rubber pad without luck. Therefore should be a short on the capacitor, I tried following the trace and I’d like to confirm with you if is either the C1 or L1. Or if is not a capacitor short where to jump the button?

Thanks in advance.

RDC · « **Reply #311 on:** June 18, 2020, 03:14:30 PM »

No idea how you came to that conclusion, C1 and L1 are around the AA battery terminals, they don't have anything to do with Menu button at all.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #312 on:** June 18, 2020, 03:23:50 PM »

Quote from: RDC on June 18, 2020, 03:14:30 PM

No idea how you came to that conclusion, C1 and L1 are around the AA battery terminals, they don't have anything to do with Menu button at all.

Ok, where should I look in order to fix this? The menu button is constantly on/ pressed.

RDC · « **Reply #313 on:** June 18, 2020, 05:24:29 PM »

The Menu button trace runs right to pin 8 of U4. If there's no short on the trace anywhere then suspect U4.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #314 on:** June 18, 2020, 06:42:59 PM »

Quote from: RDC on June 18, 2020, 05:24:29 PM

The Menu button trace runs right to pin 8 of U4. If there's no short on the trace anywhere then suspect U4.

Sir... you’re the legend! Indeed it was u4 just worked the solder on the pins and VOILÀ!

Thank you RDC

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #315 on:** June 18, 2020, 07:06:06 PM »

Quote from: Samuelmorin on June 18, 2020, 06:42:59 PM

Sir... you’re the legend! Indeed it was u4 just worked the solder on the pins and VOILÀ!

Thank you RDC

Aaaand I celebrated too early. After I put the controller back together. Left it on for a couple of minutes and..... the issue came back, the controller stays fine for a while and then the menu button starts coming on and off flickering for moments and then goes back to normal

Nick_Sparkle · « **Reply #316 on:** June 28, 2020, 07:24:44 AM »

the guide button is not regestering on my 1708 controller, goes to d4, how can i get this to be reconised again please? thank you in advance

RDC · « **Reply #317 on:** June 28, 2020, 10:27:53 AM »

D4 is connected to the View button not Guide.

Nick_Sparkle · « **Reply #318 on:** July 02, 2020, 04:03:17 AM »

ah sorry, its all new to me, how can i get the view button working, im getting continuity to the D4.Thank you for your time once again

RDC · « **Reply #319 on:** July 02, 2020, 07:36:14 PM »

Check the Resistance from TP25 to ground with the View button unpressed, then with it pressed. If the value does not change then the trace is broken between TP25 and the View button, or you're not pressing the View button.

If the value does change from some high value (unpressed) to around 200 ohms or less (pressed) then the trace from View to TP25 is good. Check the Resistance from U4 pin 15 to Ground and press View again. If it does not change value the trace is broken between TP25 and pin 15. If it does change value then suspect U4 is the issue.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #320 on:** July 20, 2020, 06:50:46 PM »

Hello RDC, I have a 1708 which has the D-pad up always registering as pressed, what would be your guess? Capacitor issue or jumper the trace?

RDC · « **Reply #321 on:** July 20, 2020, 08:17:30 PM »

If it's always pressed then make sure the membrane isn't worn out and the thing still 'snaps' on and off. Ohm out TP16 to ground and see what it measures pressed and unpressed, controller off and top board disconnected from bottom board.

If TP16 to ground always measures 0ohms then look for a short to ground on the DU line.

If there is no short and TP16 to ground measures normal (high resistance unpressed, low resistance pressed) then I'd suspect that U4 is the issue.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #322 on:** July 20, 2020, 09:21:05 PM »

Alright. Will do

Sandovalsandiaz32 · « **Reply #323 on:** July 29, 2020, 08:49:55 AM »

Good day, i have a controller 1708 working perfect, but only with baterries, in the pin 2 on j1 the voltaje decrease... Someone can help me?

RDC · « **Reply #324 on:** July 29, 2020, 10:19:44 AM »

Pin 2 of J1 is the Guide button, not sure what you're trying to look for there.

U2 and U3 get their power from U1 when connected to USB, or the battery when used wireless. Check R1 and then U1 and it's support components. That U1 regulator takes the 5v from the USB and knocks it down to 3v for U2 and U3 to use, so there's an issue whit it or whit the 5v getting to U1.

Sandovalsandiaz32 · « **Reply #325 on:** July 29, 2020, 01:16:57 PM »

hanks for the quick reply, i will try.

I have another control that the LSC does not work, I put a bridge to the TP42 and it does not work either, it can help me, it is driving me crazy, thanks for everything

RDC · « **Reply #326 on:** July 29, 2020, 06:20:03 PM »

Bridged TP42 to what? Could be the Tact switch in the stick is bad. Solder a wire on TP42 and touch the other end of it to some Ground spot and see if the LSC activates.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #327 on:** August 28, 2020, 05:58:17 PM »

Quote from: RDC on May 09, 2020, 08:12:09 PM

The castellated pad 62 on the small MCU board, where it's soldered to the larger board, is RT. Then LT (TP68) is pad 52 for comparison, RT is 10 to the left of that pad. The top row there is 80 to 43, going left to right.

Hello RDC I have this same issue, but in my case C33 was shorted and by removing it out took the bottom pad with it and now is all the way to 100%, tried jumping c36 and r39 to tp67 and from there to pad 62 and still the same. Any idea?

Thanks I’m advance

RDC · « **Reply #328 on:** August 28, 2020, 06:10:27 PM »

The RT line was fine if all you damaged was the bottom pad of C33. Removing the bottom pad of C33 took out the VCC to U10 there. Jumper pin 1 of U10 (marked with the dot) to TP50.

XLMEG · « **Reply #329 on:** September 12, 2020, 01:41:57 PM »

Hi all,

Can anyone please tell me what does "To LT on stick" means in this scheme:

https://i.imgur.com/dUiOuiK.jpg

I mean the ON STICK words... where is that wire suposed to be solded ??

Many thanks!!

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 219029 times)