Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 220360 times)

RDC · « **Reply #330 on:** September 12, 2020, 01:56:02 PM »

That looks like it's some kind of Arcade Stick mod, being they removed the Hall sensors for the Triggers and the Sticks from the board and have Resistors installed, so the 'LT on stick' would be the LT button of the Arcade Stick.

XLMEG · « **Reply #331 on:** September 13, 2020, 05:51:01 AM »

Thank you RDC, now I understand it (got a arcade cabinet on my house too).

I was searching for a fix to my RT/LT allways pressed issue, will continue searching this forums

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #332 on:** October 30, 2020, 10:11:21 AM »

Hi RDC - can you tell me which test point can give me RT MOTOR+? I tried TP27 like the 1537 board but no luck.

RDC · « **Reply #333 on:** October 30, 2020, 01:18:14 PM »

RT MOTOR+ is TP29. It's actually TP29 on the 1537 as well, has those backwards for years now, so that's also been corrected.

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #334 on:** October 30, 2020, 04:42:56 PM »

Got it, thanks a lot.

The board I am dealing with has a crack in the area of the right stick. I've managed to route most severed functions to test points to get them working, but the RT MOTOR + spot and TP29 are not providing power for the function. Is there any other spot where I can intercept this signal? Maybe somewhere to the right of the right stick, if I am looking at the bottom of the board.

RDC · « **Reply #335 on:** October 30, 2020, 04:55:30 PM »

U5 on the top of the MCU board controls the Light and RT Rumble motors.

Post a pic of the board and damaged area.

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #336 on:** October 30, 2020, 06:00:52 PM »

Here's where the crack is - I wired RSY and RSC to their respective test points successfully. Perhaps I need to wire the RT MOTOR + directly to one of the pins of U5?

RDC · « **Reply #337 on:** October 30, 2020, 06:55:36 PM »

The connections from U5 to the motors is short and nowhere near that crack.

One or more of the 4 control lines that go to U5 are probably broken somewhere. Those traces are on the top and bottom of the board and all run right thru about the middle of the Stick there. I'd remove the Stick first, because if the traces on the bottom are cracked there very well could be damage on the top side as well.

This is all the further I'm currently tracing them out. I'd have to pull the SOC board there or poke around with the DMM to see where they end up on the SOC board points, but odds are you have a break on one or more of those 4 there somewhere.

Rocawear253@gmail.com · « **Reply #338 on:** November 17, 2020, 10:22:29 PM »

Thank you so much for these scans. They are my cheat sheet god bless you.

Andrunin · « **Reply #339 on:** November 20, 2020, 03:27:27 PM »

Yes thanks a lot, very appreciated. This info is great! Your schematics helped fix an issue with the 7 buttons pressed fault https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44652.0.html

I checked everything mentioned in the thread and even replaced the U4 chip twice and nothing worked out. With the schematics there was VCCI, VCCP and ADDR connected to 3.3V and turned out there was a break in a via on my board for VCCI and VCCP, but ADDR had 3.3V. So it was fixed with a jumper, many thanks!

RDC · « **Reply #340 on:** November 20, 2020, 04:45:13 PM »

Welcome all.

Stackhouse · « **Reply #341 on:** November 21, 2020, 04:06:38 AM »

Hello, does anyone knows what is this CR1? or the value if its a resistor? Its missing mine.

THX

RDC · « **Reply #342 on:** November 21, 2020, 07:26:17 AM »

CR1 is a Diode. It's nothing special, just some Schottky diode for the 5v reverse polarity protection. You could leave it off, or install just about any type of Diode you want there. Cathode goes to the 5v rail (the right side in that pic) Anode goes to Ground.

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #343 on:** November 21, 2020, 11:13:04 AM »

Quote from: RDC on October 30, 2020, 06:55:36 PM

The connections from U5 to the motors is short and nowhere near that crack.

One or more of the 4 control lines that go to U5 are probably broken somewhere. Those traces are on the top and bottom of the board and all run right thru about the middle of the Stick there. I'd remove the Stick first, because if the traces on the bottom are cracked there very well could be damage on the top side as well.

This is all the further I'm currently tracing them out. I'd have to pull the SOIC board there or poke around with the DMM to see where they end up on the SOIC board points, but odds are you have a break on one or more of those 4 there somewhere.

Using a jumper wire to recreate the blue trace worked perfectly. You are awesome, RDC!

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #344 on:** November 21, 2020, 11:16:33 AM »

I have another problem controller - this one needs RSX connection to be recreated but TP66 was ripped off the board. I can see where the trace leads to TP66 but cannot see where it goes after TP66 (which is where I think I need to jump the connection to). Any advice is appreciated as always!

RDC · « **Reply #345 on:** November 21, 2020, 04:19:50 PM »

The bottom left solder joint in that row there is #16, RSX goes to #19, the fourth solder joint there from the left, just above TP66 and to the left.

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #346 on:** November 21, 2020, 05:03:52 PM »

Thanks RDC. Maybe I misunderstood the spot because per the wiring in the picture, the RSX value went from a erratic ~-60% to a constant -100%?

I also jumped Vcc and ground from one of the working potentiometers to the inputs of RSX just to make sure nothing funky was happening there.

RDC · « **Reply #347 on:** November 21, 2020, 05:18:37 PM »

That's the right spot, but make sure that it is only touching #19. I can't make it out from the pic for sure, but it looks like that RSX trace is possibly grounded out on the one next to it, which is ground, and grounding the RSX line would make it go -100% there.

Rokcy98 · « **Reply #348 on:** November 22, 2020, 06:11:40 AM »

Hi guys, I need your help.

This is the second time I try to repair an XB1 controller's bumper.
While the first time it went smoothly (beginner's luck I guess), this time I'm afraid I've been able to lift all the 4 pads, while desoldering the LB switch.

I dunno what to do, can you tell me if it's fixable or not (the other buttons work anyway)?
Sorry for my poor work, I have practically zero experience in soldering

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #349 on:** November 22, 2020, 01:18:18 PM »

Quote from: RDC on November 21, 2020, 05:18:37 PM

That's the right spot, but make sure that it is only touching #19. I can't make it out from the pic for sure, but it looks like that RSX trace is possibly grounded out on the one next to it, which is ground, and grounding the RSX line would make it go -100% there.

Got it, thanks a lot!

It was only touching #19, the issue was that the normal RSX pad was somehow being grounded somewhere along the broken trace, so I simply made sure the RSX pin on the potentiometer was wired to #19 without any contact to the normal RSX pad.

Thank you again RDC - you have helped me and others countless times and are always generous with your knowledge.

RDC · « **Reply #350 on:** November 22, 2020, 06:47:18 PM »

@ Greedaycolt - Welcome.

@ Rocky98 - It's for sure repairable. Three of those 4 connections are ground anyway. Easy enough to just scrape a little bit of the solder mask away, the green 'paint' that is covering the copper underneath it. Then bend over those 3 leads and solder them to the board there.

The fourth connection is the LB button line, and you can run a wire form that one to TP19.

Rokcy98 · « **Reply #351 on:** November 23, 2020, 12:13:55 AM »

Quote from: RDC on November 22, 2020, 06:47:18 PM

@ Greedaycolt - Welcome.

@ Rocky98 - It's for sure repairable. Three of those 4 connections are ground anyway. Easy enough to just scrape a little bit of the solder mask away, the green 'paint' that is covering the copper underneath it. Then bend over those 3 leads and solder them to the board there.

The fourth connection is the LB button line, and you can run a wire form that one to TP19.

Thanks for helping me
So, I need to scrape anywhere near those 3 pins, the copper will emerge and then I'll bend those pins and solder to the copper, am I right?
Or I need to scrape somewhere specifically?

RDC · « **Reply #352 on:** November 23, 2020, 11:35:13 AM »

Dark green is the solder mask, copper is under there. Scrape gently, don't dig for it. When you see the shiny, you're there. nowhere really specific, but has to be where the leads will bend over and touch.

Rokcy98 · « **Reply #353 on:** November 23, 2020, 12:21:51 PM »

Ok sir, thank you again.
I'll try and I'll let you know how it will go!

gremlins · « **Reply #354 on:** November 25, 2020, 08:19:04 AM »

Sorry to be a pain, got a 1708 that wasnt turning on via USB, the port looked damaged so I replaced it. Did the trick for 5 minutes but the pad randomly loses power.

I suspect U1 is not working correctly as I know this knocks down the voltage from 5 to 3.3. which pins are Vin and Vout so I can test it?

RDC · « **Reply #355 on:** November 25, 2020, 02:11:08 PM »

The schematic for the top Button/Power board is in the first post of this thread.

gremlins · « **Reply #356 on:** November 28, 2020, 04:46:20 AM »

Do you have a schematic for the 1708 MCU board by any chance?

I need to check the analog stick connections. Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #357 on:** November 28, 2020, 08:18:34 AM »

Nope. Schematic wouldn't be necessary for that until you get to the castellations, and after that they pretty much go right to the BGA.

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #358 on:** November 30, 2020, 10:21:34 AM »

I have an ECU board per picture below that has a constantly activated RB (RSC) input. I ensured ground is present at 3 of the four pins and jumped wires to the grounds from the working LSC just to be sure. I then jumped wire from RSC to TP20, but RB is still constantly activated. No visible damage on the board. Any ideas how to further troubleshoot/fix?

RDC · « **Reply #359 on:** November 30, 2020, 01:49:51 PM »

RB and RSC are 2 different buttons.

RB = Right Bumper
RSC = Right Stick Click (the Stick button)

Given the pic, you're having an RB issue.

First check the Resistance of the RB button line to ground.

If RB measures a few k or less, look for that issue on the trace between RB and U4. Could be the Tact has failed or has some crud in it as it doesn't have to go directly to ground to register as a press. Could be the trace that runs under the AA post there since it's the negative one.

If RB measures a Meg or more, then U4 is most likely bad. I've seen that thing fail and kill just a single button or two while everything else still works.

News:

Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 220360 times)