Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 220313 times)

RDC · « **Reply #390 on:** January 02, 2021, 11:01:01 PM »

Welcome.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #391 on:** January 06, 2021, 05:57:48 AM »

So, update: arcade controller is done and I am very happy. However, it will still not power on with AA.

It's weird. The second run on new boards I wanted to nail it, cause I love this project. I practiced hitting test points on the boards from run number one. I got really good and clean solders to test points on the "test" boards so I moved to the fresh board set. Also, we figured I may have damaged something around TP19 and R34 the first run.

Fresh board set goes fabulous under 10x scope and I think I am good until testing reveals same behavior. Will power on only with usb but then runs perfect on batteries only.

First, I am fine with this. Once powered on it works flawlessly as a battery powered wireless arcade controller. It is a minor thing to plug it in once to power it on and then disconnect it. Got the cord run all hidden. However, and the last part of this long post is mostly for the detectives, it is unlikely I screwed up twice and the exact same way using two different soldering techniques, creating the exact same behavior, imo.

It's something I am doing for sure, but I don't think it's soldering error anymore. Second time around had no board modification except tear down of the controller. No scraping vias or anything.

Since this is so long, sorry, I can post more on exactly what I do later (teardown and exact tp's and such) if anyone is interested. And keep in mind, I am stoked on how it turned out, so no worries.

Thank you RDC for all the info and help.

RDC · « **Reply #392 on:** January 06, 2021, 03:07:28 PM »

Ahhh frak, I bet I know what it is now. Where are you wiring up the Guide button at?

I'll wager you are soldering to J1p2 for Guide, if so, then that is the 'problem' and why it will not turn on from the AA pack. You need to solder the Guide button line to the right side of D27.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #393 on:** January 07, 2021, 12:41:21 AM »

You are correct sir. J1pin2 guide button solder.

I was starting to think it was something with guide. Ty. Think it's fine, honestly. I may look into the diode foot solder fix, but mostly just for information on here.

Galaga and pac man and double dragon marathon already under way. Contra next.

Thank you again RDC.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #394 on:** January 07, 2021, 04:27:41 AM »

Just tried the D27 solder on my first round "test" boards and it fires up great with AA only. Damn, it was pretty easy, so now I gotta do it on the permanent one.

Thank you.

RDC · « **Reply #395 on:** January 07, 2021, 05:38:09 AM »

Welcome. Oddly enough I have that D27 'issue' mentioned in every other XB1 controller version thread where it applies, and thought it was here also. Soon as you had the same issue on the other board it knocked that cobweb loose in the ole attic here and figured it was that.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #396 on:** January 07, 2021, 05:52:18 AM »

Apologies if it was here already, I figured it would have been. Appreciate the help and I know all about cobwebs.

Permanent board D27 done and remounted and tested. About to shove it all back in to the arcade box for the 3rd time. (I love it tho,lol)

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #397 on:** January 07, 2021, 05:54:08 AM »

Now it's really done.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #398 on:** January 07, 2021, 06:56:24 AM »

Finished project pics. Fully wireless arcade controller using 1708 MS boards and Happ arcade components. Bluetooth and mappable even. Updated and stoked. When they stop supporting these controller guts I will have to do it again... Hopefully not for a while.

Artem_Slowpoke · « **Reply #399 on:** January 11, 2021, 10:01:59 AM »

Greetings!

During the parsing of the controller from the Xbox One S (1708), the socket of the bluetooth antenna fell off (it remained in the connector tightly). I cut off the connector, cleaned the wire, decided to solder it directly, but the question is .. to which contacts what to solder?

Thank you in advance for your help and sorry for my poor english!

RDC · « **Reply #400 on:** January 11, 2021, 10:37:13 AM »

That wire is coax, and the pad has been torn off the board there for the center wire. You will need to make sure the trace is still there and connecting C77 and Z10, and if it is, then solder the center of the coax to either of those.

The outside of the coax can go to any spot that is ground.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #401 on:** January 15, 2021, 07:40:15 AM »

So, just a quick question. The arcade controller project went so good I am going to do an expansion of the deck and want to include the "view/back" button and the triggers. Aka, drilling a few more holes in the wood deck and wiring up the 3 more buttons.

The view button looks easy at TP25 on the button board. If I want the triggers to just work like buttons just solder to TP67 and TP68 on the mcu board? Then common ground of course.

Thanks, just checking with you before proceeding.

Artem_Slowpoke · « **Reply #402 on:** January 15, 2021, 11:21:25 AM »

Quote from: RDC on January 11, 2021, 10:37:13 AM

That wire is coax, and the pad has been torn off the board there for the center wire. You will need to make sure the trace is still there and connecting C77 and Z10, and if it is, then solder the center of the coax to either of those.

The outside of the coax can go to any spot that is ground.

Sorry for stupid question.

Can I use other wire (thicker) with ground, or it must be the same coax wire?

RDC · « **Reply #403 on:** January 15, 2021, 11:31:36 AM »

@beardawg252002 - For the LT/RT I'd run them thru a 10 to 100ohm versus straight to ground, but either way will work. https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43204.0.html

@Artem_Slowpoke - You might be the right distance from your console for it tow work with some janky wire setup, but the wire should be coax for shielding. It would at best work intermittently using some other wire that is not shielded before it gets to the actual antenna that is on the top board.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #404 on:** January 15, 2021, 09:39:54 PM »

RDC, sounds good. I read the other thread info too, ty. Also, what do you recommend for resistor as I have 10 ohm, 50 ohm and 100ohm? Can use whatever is best. Just going to put the LT and RT grounds at the end of my daisy chain ground with the resistor in line before those last two grounds. How does that sound?

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #405 on:** January 15, 2021, 09:46:33 PM »

I double checked the little resistor box and I have 10 ohm, 20 ohm, 47 ohm and 100 ohm.

wickated · « **Reply #406 on:** January 15, 2021, 09:50:15 PM »

Quote from: RDC on January 15, 2021, 11:31:36 AM

@beardawg252002 - For the LT/RT I'd run them thru a 10 to 100ohm versus straight to ground, but either way will work. https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43204.0.html

@Artem_Slowpoke - You might be the right distance from your console for it tow work with some janky wire setup, but the wire should be coax for shielding. It would at best work intermittently using some other wire that is not shielded before it gets to the actual antenna that is on the top board.

u know u can directly solder 1cm wire that will be antenna

RDC · « **Reply #407 on:** January 15, 2021, 09:54:27 PM »

Any of them will really do, just use the 10ohm.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #408 on:** January 16, 2021, 03:26:00 AM »

Thank you again RDC. 10 ohm it is. Will let you know when it's done.

Artem_Slowpoke · « **Reply #409 on:** January 16, 2021, 08:08:09 AM »

Quote from: RDC on January 15, 2021, 11:31:36 AM

@beardawg252002 - For the LT/RT I'd run them thru a 10 to 100ohm versus straight to ground, but either way will work. https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43204.0.html

@Artem_Slowpoke - You might be the right distance from your console for it tow work with some janky wire setup, but the wire should be coax for shielding. It would at best work intermittently using some other wire that is not shielded before it gets to the actual antenna that is on the top board.

@RDC hello again, so I soldered the cable (coax, took it from old notebook), center to C52, shield to the green circle. After that, the gamepad became recognizable on my PC, I was even able to connect to it, but it works well only at a very short distance. I also noticed that there is contact between the two pins (orange). Is this normal?

Am I doing something wrong? Thanks for further help, a lot.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #410 on:** January 16, 2021, 11:33:09 AM »

If I do the PK2 to PK3 jumper to fix the headset jack issue, can I still use a wireless headset with the controller? Adding that to the project too. So much time now.... I figure pimp it out.

RDC · « **Reply #411 on:** January 16, 2021, 11:48:29 AM »

@ Artem_Slowpoke - Never said to solder anything to C52, that's the issue.

@ beardawg252002 - As long as the wireless headset doesn't have some kind of dongle that needs to be plugged into the controller headset jack it should work.

Artem_Slowpoke · « **Reply #412 on:** January 16, 2021, 11:55:12 AM »

Quote from: RDC on January 16, 2021, 11:48:29 AM

@ Artem_Slowpoke - Never said to solder anything to C52, that's the issue.

@ beardawg252002 - As long as the wireless headset doesn't have some kind of dongle that needs to be plugged into the controller headset jack it should work.

@RDC sorry, my fault, i mean C77 (I checked, C77 and Z10 are connected).

RDC · « **Reply #413 on:** January 16, 2021, 02:47:04 PM »

The center wire needs to be soldered to where those components meet.

Measuring continuity from ground to the antenna center lead will look like a short.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #414 on:** January 16, 2021, 06:38:57 PM »

Nope, I currently have tbeach stealth 700 wireless headset with direct wireless connection to the console and trading those in for ls50x which has usb dongle at the console. Should be ok. The lucid sound ls50x is just so comfortable and great sound/features plus bluetooth. Thank you again.

Qball · « **Reply #415 on:** January 18, 2021, 05:36:59 PM »

Im trying to run jumper wires for the right stick as I botched the replacement and lifted my pads, can anyone help me with where I should be running wires?

Artem_Slowpoke · « **Reply #416 on:** January 22, 2021, 10:54:36 AM »

Quote from: RDC on January 16, 2021, 02:47:04 PM

The center wire needs to be soldered to where those components meet.

Measuring continuity from ground to the antenna center lead will look like a short.

@RDC Thanks a lot!

Apparently, when I soldered it for the first time, I did it not very well. I tried again - now gamepad works just fine.

RDC · « **Reply #417 on:** January 22, 2021, 01:00:25 PM »

@ Qball - Post pics of the damage or specify which pads are damaged.

@ Artem_Slowpoke - Welcome.

Qball · « **Reply #418 on:** January 22, 2021, 01:06:59 PM »

I was able to find the test points and points on the main chip that I needed to solder to and got it working

Qball · « **Reply #419 on:** January 25, 2021, 06:43:45 AM »

Hey, I was wondering where I can find a hall effect sensor for the triggers and there where should I look for the 1.23V's that feeds it as the resistor near it C33 or something like that is gone and took its pads with it.

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 220313 times)