XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim"

[Bober]

Dude, thanks sooo much!

Ps.
It's my curiosity - how do You manage to always find time to respond in this forum everytime somebody needs help, especially taking into account how much repetitive it is sometimes and how much patience does it takes?

[RDC]

Welcome.

Well, not every time. Repetition mostly, plus the forum notifications.

[RamadanKA]

Hello, this is my first time asking so sorry if it was asked before,

can anyone help me with the the following components types, values and where i can buy them from?

EG1
EG5
C32
C35

thanks in advance

[RDC]

EG1 and EG5 are some kind of Transient Suppression Diodes, but I have no idea what their ratings are.

C32 = 100nF
C35 = 1uF

[dj_amir]

hello,my controller just work usb cable,with batteries not work...replaced ic u1 , u2 , u3 but with batteries not work.

[RDC]

Component replacement before diagnosing the issue, bold. Top board, make sure L1 is still there and good. Then make sure there are no cracks in the PCB around that area.

[dj_amir]

Thanks...test l1,l2,l3,l4 its ok...no cracks pcb...c6,d23,u1 they ware burned.i replaced them.with batteries only c6 0.9v and no volt other pin u1.
https://ibb.co/TMrb87s

[RDC]

C6 has nothing to do with the AA voltage, it's on the 5v rail that comes from the USB. U1 is only in there to knock the 5v down to 3v for U2 and U3 to use. If the controller works on USB, then U1, U2 and U3 are all fine.

Use the schematic and check everything in the entire bottom right quadrant of it. The AA power gets to U2/U3 from there, L1, Q6 ~ Q9 and all of the support components around there.

[will38uk]

I just wanted to write a few words of appreciation for this thread and in particular RDCs comments without which I probably wouldn?t have fixed my controller. 


I was a complete novice to soldering or electronics, but with the advise within this thread, was little by little able  to understand how the potentiometers worked , what test points are for, how to use a multimeter , and how could put in my own jump connections to restore connectivity lost by damaged pads.  I didn?t initially understand there were pads, that I had damaged them and how to work around the problem of the damaged pads.

I have two controllers and have fixed the first one and optimistic should be able to fix the second.

First controller - I had unbeknown to me damaged the pads.  I didn?t even know they were pads lol .  I thought just having pins poking through board and a bit of solder meant it was making contact and couldn?t understand why not working.  I finally got working by soldering from the soc to the middle pin , as well as jumping negative and positive from the pins of the x axis which was working.  Prior to this I had unsuccessfully due to my clumsiness and inexperience bodged the test point pad and the c22  on other side of board.

Second controller - I can see that one axis doesn?t have negative positive charge and test point showing nothing with continuity so will jumper these .  The other axis it?s just the middle signal pin needs jumping to the appropriate test point .

I will mention this as may prove helpful to someone,  I accept that if you are confident at soldering and what you are soldering to then this step is unnecessary but for other novices something I found helpful was I connected up the controller to a permanent ?switched? battery  power.  I did this by digging out an electronics set I had as a child, popping in 2 aa batteries , figuring which pins tested as giving 3 volts ( also check polarity ) and then soldering the wires from my electronics set to the power pins in the Xbox controller.

This meant I could

A) test for voltage on the board ( which required controller powered on ) much easier !  Prior to this I was dangling a battery part from pins and trying not to jiggle to much .

B) likewise  quickly switch off the power, do some soldering and test , without having to either struggle to dangle the battery pack onto the pins and hold controller to the side, or put the plastic back cover on , then put batteries in and still trying to hold the cover in place so don?t loose contact

I should add as well that if you are planning to repair lots of controllers then this could be handy to keep this half of the controller circuit board to mix and match with the other board that the analogue stick sits on

[ZhenyaKa]

Hi! What is EG2 element?
It was destroyed before me

Both triggers doesnt work (LT-RT). Perhaps this element is the reason



http://ipic.su/img/img7/fs/kiss_1303kb.1636639511.png

[RDC]

EG2 there is some type of TVS Diode. It will work fine without it and that would not cause any issues with LT/RT.

Use the schematic for the MCU board and look around U9, U10 and U11 for the issue with them.

[ZhenyaKa]

Thanks a lot for your answer. Power consuption of Controller is about 120-150mA. Is it normal or not?

Also 304 hall sensors have ~2Ohm resistanse between one leg and ground. Other leg connected to ground. And there is no any voltage on 304 and they not heating.

But main CPU heating about 35-38C (is it normal?).
Also diode D22 heated up about 40C


Controller detected by Win10 fine, but triggers doesn't work

[RDC]

I have no idea what any individual component temps for normal operation would be.

U9 is a 3.2v Regulator that is turned on/off 125 times per second to supply voltage to the Hall sensors, U10 and U11. You really need a scope to see what is going on there, but a decent DMM would still measure something there.

U10/U11

Pin

1 - Around 1v
2 - Around 0.12v, gets lower the more the Trigger is pulled
3 - GND

If those voltages are not there, then check the voltage at R38. It should be around 0.3v and that will mean the MCU is telling U9 to turn on/off and then the issue would most likely be with one of the decoupling caps between U9 and U10/U11, namely C32, C33, C35 or C37.

[ZhenyaKa]

Thanks a lot for your answer!

[Dark Knight_TJ]

Does anyone knows what model is D12 diode please? I have one controller Wich is always pressing d-pad down , I've removed from a donor and now works fine but I need to replace that component on donor xD

[RDC]

D12 is some type of TVS diode, but it is not required for DD to work.

[Dark Knight_TJ]

Thanks sir !

[Qball]

Does anyone know if it is possible to buy the component labeled u5 on the board with the sticks?

[RDC]

U5, and U4, are an A3910. They are available at many of the different online parts places.

[Packao]

Guys, I'm a Hobbist and I fix my own consoles. I went to clean my friend's Xbox One controller, which had spilled some water, and after that the controller started turning on and off by itself. The day after the event, I opened it, cleaned it (there was a lot of cat hair inside and almost no water) but at the time of reassembling, I noticed that when I disconnected the cable from J1 point, the point detached from the plate, getting stuck in the cable.


Has anyone had this problem? does a simple solder do it? If it is not so simple, what is the procedure for the repair

[RDC]

No need for cross posting.

That's the connector for the antenna, and without seeing what you did exactly no one is going to have any idea how it can be repaired, or even if it could be. If the pads were torn up with the socket, then you'll most likely not get that repaired and working 100% as the RF signal will be quite a bit screwed up from how it was designed to work.

[Qball]

What are components U3 and C23 on the power board for? I have a board where that region gets extremely hot to the point where leaving your finger there for like 2 seconds is enough to burn just a bit.

[RDC]

U3 is the 3.3v Regulator. C23 is just a decoupling cap on the 3.3v rail. Schematic is in the first post.

[student705]

Guys, please, I need help with this. I think I damaged/removed two solder pads in my RB connection. What can I do to repair the solder pads and how can I do it? I'm a beginner at soldering.

I'm sorry I can't insert an imagem here for some reason, but I'll leave a link to a document (in Google Docs) in which you can clearly see the issue. Please help me with this 
Link to the images: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1CQPj_b0IlqTo54S678oToAJB4b2KIOndq32plPRBKg8/edit?usp=sharing

[RDC]

The second spot is just a ground, and most of it is still there, that one is fine. The first one though you'll need to solder a jumper wire to restore the RB trace.

Install the new RB Tact switch.

Solder up the 3 spots, or 2-3/4 if you want to be picky about it, that are still there.

Solder a jumper wire from the lead that has the missing solder pad down to TP20. It's just to the left of U4 there, same side of the board. Use as small a wire as possible and make sure it doesn't get pinched anywhere when you put the shell back together.

[student705]

I'm sorry if I didn't understand correctly. English is not my native language. I'm sorry for this  . By "solder a jumper wire from the lead that has the missing solder pad", did you mean I have to solder the male end of a jumper wire to the terminal of the RB tact switch (the terminal that goes into the hole with the missing solder pad)? I thought lead was a part of the solder. Sorry for my confusion. If you can explain this to me, I'll be grateful.

I did some quick search on what jumper wires are. Do I have to use a male-to-male jumper wire, a male-to-female, or a female-to-female jumper
wire? I searched in this website: http://blog.sparkfuneducation.com/what-is-jumper-wire

[RDC]

Lead (pronounced led) is a metal.

Lead (pronounced leed), or pin, is the metal part of a component that sticks out that you solder to. A typical IC has multiple leads, that RB Tact switch there has 4 leads.

Jumper wire is just a generic term for any kind of wire used to 'jump' over some bad spot. Those jumper wires are for use on a breadboard. All you need is a thin piece of wire, no ends on it. Solder one end on the RB lead there at the missing pad, the other end of the wire then goes to TP20. 30awg Kynar wire is what should be used, and do turn the heat down some, as you don't need much to solder to that small TP20 spot. Tearing that off the board will put you in a lot more difficult repair to make.

[student705]

Thanks for explaining this to me. I really needed to learn it.

I don't have a soldering station to control the temperature of the iron so that it doesn't get too hot, but I do have a 25W iron. Is it "cool" enough not to damage the TP20? I'm afraid of damaging this board even more.

Edit.: I looked a bit more into it. Can I use old headphone wires as jumpers? I have some lying around, and maybe they could be used, idk.
Edit.2: Also noticed some jumper wires have rubber covers, while some don't (they're just bare wires). Which one should I use on this fix?

[RDC]

If you can not turn the iron down some, then learn to leave it on the work for less time. That is the more important thing to get the hang of anyway, and you are only going to get better at that with practice. Expect to tear up plenty more stuff if you want to get better at not tearing stuff up, that is the only way to learn. Anyone that tells you they have never torn up a trace, lifted a pad, torn out a thru-hole plating or knackered a via either has never worked on any PCB ever, or is just straight up lying. I have forked up my fair share of things, but as you keep at it the mistakes get fewer and farther apart, but you will never get it right every time, all the time, and that's fine.

Headphone cable could be used, though it is an enamel wire type, that is to say that it has a very, very thin coating of enamel (paint) over it and that is the insulation for it. Even if it looks like it is already copper, there is a coating of enamel on there. Most times if you try to solder to that, it will look like it attached, but that is just the solder holding onto the wire mechanically. You have to tin that kind of wire first, and that is to burn off the enamel coating so you get down to the copper wire in there so the solder can stick to that to make the electrical connection, which is what you are after.

The different types of insulation on wires you can spend all day Googling. What you do not want is any bare wire in there, as that will just be asking for it to connect to places you do not want it to, aka shorts. You also do not need any wire that has a thick insulation as it will just be pointless and get in the way. Again, 30awg Kynar wire, also called wrapping wire, is what most people use for that kind of repair there.

[student705]

First part done. I followed your steps and soldered the one I thought was broken, but wasn't.

However looking for how to detach the bottom board from the upper one, I found too many things could go wrong, so I thought of another thing, and I don't know if it's possible. Maybe I could scrape the trace a bit and try to fix the connection like in the following video, at the 9:34 time stamp?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AR0lb7YI0v4 (at 9:34).

As I still don't know how to attach images in this message, I'll put a link to another document I made, with some images related to my question: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1oNijNMwqyyXVqm3EnrFbY9udNF-CH77DQTsRdemjEmk/edit?usp=sharing.

Is the trace I put a red circle on the one I should scrape? I actually don't know which trace connects to which solder pad, so I'm sorry for asking these basic things. It sounds a little scary, but I want to give it a try maybe, if it works as well. My friend said he has a friend who has a lot of experience with soldering smartphones that maybe could orient me with the scrapping part, since I could pretty much ruin it.