Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 426972 times)

ReshiramZekrom · « **Reply #510 on:** June 19, 2021, 04:56:59 AM »

Hello.

I was trying to fix my drifting controller by replacing the analog stick but I ended up losing a good part of the solder pads of the X axis. There's just a tiny little saved part of the pad for each of the pins but doesn't seem enough to make contact for every of them since the X axis doesn't trigger any changes whatsoever when I move it.

Is there anything I can do now in order to fix this mess?

Thank you!

RDC · « **Reply #511 on:** June 19, 2021, 05:27:27 AM »

Install 3 jumper wire, connect the dots.

ReshiramZekrom · « **Reply #512 on:** June 19, 2021, 07:06:24 AM »

Quote from: RDC on June 19, 2021, 05:27:27 AM

Install 3 jumper wire, connect the dots.

Thank you really much, you've been a lifesaver. My joypad is back to work once again

Bober · « **Reply #513 on:** June 30, 2021, 11:01:00 AM »

Hi! My first comment here. I have used the search feature but I didn't found any problem like mine (only this https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=44500.0 and some replies here about *other* parts).

I was trying to repair microusb port in my bud's 1708, but accidentaly I've blown D17 with an hot air. That thing is so tiny... I can;t find it anywhere in the room and I was literally crouching with flashlight, checking every black dot on my floor. I am so frustrated... Can I short pads or is this part vital? If it's vital, what are the specs?

Thanks so much to anyone who will respond and I hope, I did everything well in terms of forum rules (I've read them btw).
Cheers!

RDC · « **Reply #514 on:** June 30, 2021, 11:16:47 AM »

Never short the pads where any component was installed, unless some doofus specifically tells you to do it, and why it can be done, and even then you should check to make sure that it's an acceptable repair. In this case, no, not at all, as you would ground out the D- USB data line.

D17 is a protection Diode for the D- line, but it will be alright with it missing.

Bober · « **Reply #515 on:** June 30, 2021, 12:23:25 PM »

Dude, thanks sooo much!

Ps.
It's my curiosity - how do You manage to always find time to respond in this forum everytime somebody needs help, especially taking into account how much repetitive it is sometimes and how much patience does it takes?

RDC · « **Reply #516 on:** June 30, 2021, 01:13:41 PM »

Welcome.

Well, not every time. Repetition mostly, plus the forum notifications.

RamadanKA · « **Reply #517 on:** July 25, 2021, 11:55:53 PM »

Hello, this is my first time asking so sorry if it was asked before,

can anyone help me with the the following components types, values and where i can buy them from?

EG1
EG5
C32
C35

thanks in advance

RDC · « **Reply #518 on:** July 26, 2021, 04:08:09 AM »

EG1 and EG5 are some kind of Transient Suppression Diodes, but I have no idea what their ratings are.

C32 = 100nF
C35 = 1uF

dj_amir · « **Reply #519 on:** August 06, 2021, 08:55:16 AM »

hello,my controller just work usb cable,with batteries not work...replaced ic u1 , u2 , u3 but with batteries not work.

RDC · « **Reply #520 on:** August 06, 2021, 10:54:35 AM »

Component replacement before diagnosing the issue, bold. Top board, make sure L1 is still there and good. Then make sure there are no cracks in the PCB around that area.

dj_amir · « **Reply #521 on:** August 06, 2021, 01:00:34 PM »

Thanks...test l1,l2,l3,l4 its ok...no cracks pcb...c6,d23,u1 they ware burned.i replaced them.with batteries only c6 0.9v and no volt other pin u1.
https://ibb.co/TMrb87s

RDC · « **Reply #522 on:** August 06, 2021, 01:13:34 PM »

C6 has nothing to do with the AA voltage, it's on the 5v rail that comes from the USB. U1 is only in there to knock the 5v down to 3v for U2 and U3 to use. If the controller works on USB, then U1, U2 and U3 are all fine.

Use the schematic and check everything in the entire bottom right quadrant of it. The AA power gets to U2/U3 from there, L1, Q6 ~ Q9 and all of the support components around there.

cfarl · « **Reply #523 on:** August 08, 2021, 06:47:27 AM »

Hi, I had a controller pushing up.

I have made a jumper from LSY to TP63, and it fixed the problem. Thanks!

Then I got another controller, with a lot of missing pads, and tried to make new jumpers.

But this controller has a BIG problem.... Other than LSY missing pad, also TP63 is missing (bad work from another guy!)

So, I tried to make a jump from LSY to the hole next the missing TP63, but the controller continues pushing up.... The left and right jumper to TP164 is working.

Any ideas?

will38uk · « **Reply #524 on:** September 12, 2021, 05:10:55 PM »

I just wanted to write a few words of appreciation for this thread and in particular RDCs comments without which I probably wouldn?t have fixed my controller.

I was a complete novice to soldering or electronics, but with the advise within this thread, was little by little able to understand how the potentiometers worked , what test points are for, how to use a multimeter , and how could put in my own jump connections to restore connectivity lost by damaged pads. I didn?t initially understand there were pads, that I had damaged them and how to work around the problem of the damaged pads.

I have two controllers and have fixed the first one and optimistic should be able to fix the second.

First controller - I had unbeknown to me damaged the pads. I didn?t even know they were pads lol . I thought just having pins poking through board and a bit of solder meant it was making contact and couldn?t understand why not working. I finally got working by soldering from the soc to the middle pin , as well as jumping negative and positive from the pins of the x axis which was working. Prior to this I had unsuccessfully due to my clumsiness and inexperience bodged the test point pad and the c22 on other side of board.

Second controller - I can see that one axis doesn?t have negative positive charge and test point showing nothing with continuity so will jumper these . The other axis it?s just the middle signal pin needs jumping to the appropriate test point .

I will mention this as may prove helpful to someone, I accept that if you are confident at soldering and what you are soldering to then this step is unnecessary but for other novices something I found helpful was I connected up the controller to a permanent ?switched? battery power. I did this by digging out an electronics set I had as a child, popping in 2 aa batteries , figuring which pins tested as giving 3 volts ( also check polarity ) and then soldering the wires from my electronics set to the power pins in the Xbox controller.

This meant I could

A) test for voltage on the board ( which required controller powered on ) much easier ! Prior to this I was dangling a battery part from pins and trying not to jiggle to much .

B) likewise quickly switch off the power, do some soldering and test , without having to either struggle to dangle the battery pack onto the pins and hold controller to the side, or put the plastic back cover on , then put batteries in and still trying to hold the cover in place so don?t loose contact

I should add as well that if you are planning to repair lots of controllers then this could be handy to keep this half of the controller circuit board to mix and match with the other board that the analogue stick sits on

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #525 on:** November 11, 2021, 06:06:45 AM »

Hi! What is EG2 element?
It was destroyed before me

Both triggers doesnt work (LT-RT). Perhaps this element is the reason

http://ipic.su/img/img7/fs/kiss_1303kb.1636639511.png

RDC · « **Reply #526 on:** November 11, 2021, 12:04:40 PM »

EG2 there is some type of TVS Diode. It will work fine without it and that would not cause any issues with LT/RT.

Use the schematic for the MCU board and look around U9, U10 and U11 for the issue with them.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #527 on:** November 11, 2021, 12:18:30 PM »

Thanks a lot for your answer. Power consuption of Controller is about 120-150mA. Is it normal or not?

Also 304 hall sensors have ~2Ohm resistanse between one leg and ground. Other leg connected to ground. And there is no any voltage on 304 and they not heating.

But main CPU heating about 35-38C (is it normal?).
Also diode D22 heated up about 40C

Controller detected by Win10 fine, but triggers doesn't work

RDC · « **Reply #528 on:** November 11, 2021, 12:49:08 PM »

I have no idea what any individual component temps for normal operation would be.

U9 is a 3.2v Regulator that is turned on/off 125 times per second to supply voltage to the Hall sensors, U10 and U11. You really need a scope to see what is going on there, but a decent DMM would still measure something there.

U10/U11

Pin

1 - Around 1v
2 - Around 0.12v, gets lower the more the Trigger is pulled
3 - GND

If those voltages are not there, then check the voltage at R38. It should be around 0.3v and that will mean the MCU is telling U9 to turn on/off and then the issue would most likely be with one of the decoupling caps between U9 and U10/U11, namely C32, C33, C35 or C37.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #529 on:** November 11, 2021, 01:06:30 PM »

Thanks a lot for your answer!

Dark Knight_TJ · « **Reply #530 on:** November 24, 2021, 01:45:43 PM »

Does anyone knows what model is D12 diode please? I have one controller Wich is always pressing d-pad down , I've removed from a donor and now works fine but I need to replace that component on donor xD

RDC · « **Reply #531 on:** November 26, 2021, 06:44:31 AM »

D12 is some type of TVS diode, but it is not required for DD to work.

Dark Knight_TJ · « **Reply #532 on:** November 26, 2021, 06:52:12 PM »

Thanks sir !

Qball · « **Reply #533 on:** December 01, 2021, 08:41:17 PM »

Does anyone know if it is possible to buy the component labeled u5 on the board with the sticks?

RDC · « **Reply #534 on:** December 01, 2021, 09:06:48 PM »

U5, and U4, are an A3910. They are available at many of the different online parts places.

Packao · « **Reply #535 on:** December 01, 2021, 09:29:01 PM »

Guys, I'm a Hobbist and I fix my own consoles. I went to clean my friend's Xbox One controller, which had spilled some water, and after that the controller started turning on and off by itself. The day after the event, I opened it, cleaned it (there was a lot of cat hair inside and almost no water) but at the time of reassembling, I noticed that when I disconnected the cable from J1 point, the point detached from the plate, getting stuck in the cable.

Has anyone had this problem? does a simple solder do it? If it is not so simple, what is the procedure for the repair

RDC · « **Reply #536 on:** December 01, 2021, 09:37:21 PM »

No need for cross posting.

That's the connector for the antenna, and without seeing what you did exactly no one is going to have any idea how it can be repaired, or even if it could be. If the pads were torn up with the socket, then you'll most likely not get that repaired and working 100% as the RF signal will be quite a bit screwed up from how it was designed to work.

Qball · « **Reply #537 on:** December 07, 2021, 04:48:41 PM »

What are components U3 and C23 on the power board for? I have a board where that region gets extremely hot to the point where leaving your finger there for like 2 seconds is enough to burn just a bit.

RDC · « **Reply #538 on:** December 07, 2021, 07:09:35 PM »

U3 is the 3.3v Regulator. C23 is just a decoupling cap on the 3.3v rail. Schematic is in the first post.

student705 · « **Reply #539 on:** December 21, 2021, 07:22:51 AM »

Guys, please, I need help with this. I think I damaged/removed two solder pads in my RB connection. What can I do to repair the solder pads and how can I do it? I'm a beginner at soldering.

I'm sorry I can't insert an imagem here for some reason, but I'll leave a link to a document (in Google Docs) in which you can clearly see the issue. Please help me with this

Link to the images: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1CQPj_b0IlqTo54S678oToAJB4b2KIOndq32plPRBKg8/edit?usp=sharing

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 426972 times)