Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 422543 times)

RDC · « **Reply #540 on:** December 21, 2021, 08:46:24 AM »

The second spot is just a ground, and most of it is still there, that one is fine. The first one though you'll need to solder a jumper wire to restore the RB trace.

Install the new RB Tact switch.

Solder up the 3 spots, or 2-3/4 if you want to be picky about it, that are still there.

Solder a jumper wire from the lead that has the missing solder pad down to TP20. It's just to the left of U4 there, same side of the board. Use as small a wire as possible and make sure it doesn't get pinched anywhere when you put the shell back together.

student705 · « **Reply #541 on:** December 21, 2021, 09:23:08 AM »

I'm sorry if I didn't understand correctly. English is not my native language. I'm sorry for this

. By "solder a jumper wire from the lead that has the missing solder pad", did you mean I have to solder the male end of a jumper wire to the terminal of the RB tact switch (the terminal that goes into the hole with the missing solder pad)? I thought lead was a part of the solder. Sorry for my confusion. If you can explain this to me, I'll be grateful.

I did some quick search on what jumper wires are. Do I have to use a male-to-male jumper wire, a male-to-female, or a female-to-female jumper
wire? I searched in this website: http://blog.sparkfuneducation.com/what-is-jumper-wire

RDC · « **Reply #542 on:** December 21, 2021, 09:33:15 AM »

Lead (pronounced led) is a metal.

Lead (pronounced leed), or pin, is the metal part of a component that sticks out that you solder to. A typical IC has multiple leads, that RB Tact switch there has 4 leads.

Jumper wire is just a generic term for any kind of wire used to 'jump' over some bad spot. Those jumper wires are for use on a breadboard. All you need is a thin piece of wire, no ends on it. Solder one end on the RB lead there at the missing pad, the other end of the wire then goes to TP20. 30awg Kynar wire is what should be used, and do turn the heat down some, as you don't need much to solder to that small TP20 spot. Tearing that off the board will put you in a lot more difficult repair to make.

student705 · « **Reply #543 on:** December 21, 2021, 09:37:09 AM »

Thanks for explaining this to me. I really needed to learn it.

I don't have a soldering station to control the temperature of the iron so that it doesn't get too hot, but I do have a 25W iron. Is it "cool" enough not to damage the TP20? I'm afraid of damaging this board even more.

Edit.: I looked a bit more into it. Can I use old headphone wires as jumpers? I have some lying around, and maybe they could be used, idk.
Edit.2: Also noticed some jumper wires have rubber covers, while some don't (they're just bare wires). Which one should I use on this fix?

RDC · « **Reply #544 on:** December 21, 2021, 02:34:33 PM »

If you can not turn the iron down some, then learn to leave it on the work for less time. That is the more important thing to get the hang of anyway, and you are only going to get better at that with practice. Expect to tear up plenty more stuff if you want to get better at not tearing stuff up, that is the only way to learn. Anyone that tells you they have never torn up a trace, lifted a pad, torn out a thru-hole plating or knackered a via either has never worked on any PCB ever, or is just straight up lying. I have forked up my fair share of things, but as you keep at it the mistakes get fewer and farther apart, but you will never get it right every time, all the time, and that's fine.

Headphone cable could be used, though it is an enamel wire type, that is to say that it has a very, very thin coating of enamel (paint) over it and that is the insulation for it. Even if it looks like it is already copper, there is a coating of enamel on there. Most times if you try to solder to that, it will look like it attached, but that is just the solder holding onto the wire mechanically. You have to tin that kind of wire first, and that is to burn off the enamel coating so you get down to the copper wire in there so the solder can stick to that to make the electrical connection, which is what you are after.

The different types of insulation on wires you can spend all day Googling. What you do not want is any bare wire in there, as that will just be asking for it to connect to places you do not want it to, aka shorts. You also do not need any wire that has a thick insulation as it will just be pointless and get in the way. Again, 30awg Kynar wire, also called wrapping wire, is what most people use for that kind of repair there.

student705 · « **Reply #545 on:** December 21, 2021, 03:10:49 PM »

First part done. I followed your steps and soldered the one I thought was broken, but wasn't.

However looking for how to detach the bottom board from the upper one, I found too many things could go wrong, so I thought of another thing, and I don't know if it's possible. Maybe I could scrape the trace a bit and try to fix the connection like in the following video, at the 9:34 time stamp?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AR0lb7YI0v4 (at 9:34).

As I still don't know how to attach images in this message, I'll put a link to another document I made, with some images related to my question: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1oNijNMwqyyXVqm3EnrFbY9udNF-CH77DQTsRdemjEmk/edit?usp=sharing.

Is the trace I put a red circle on the one I should scrape? I actually don't know which trace connects to which solder pad, so I'm sorry for asking these basic things. It sounds a little scary, but I want to give it a try maybe, if it works as well. My friend said he has a friend who has a lot of experience with soldering smartphones that maybe could orient me with the scrapping part, since I could pretty much ruin it.

RDC · « **Reply #546 on:** December 21, 2021, 03:14:09 PM »

Yep, that's the trace you want.

student705 · « **Reply #547 on:** December 21, 2021, 03:21:12 PM »

Alright! I'll keep you updated if I do it correctly. Thanks a lot for your help. I was almost giving up thinking I had messed everything up, but you showed me a way to fix it up. As you said, maybe messing up in the beginning is the natural way of things.

student705 · « **Reply #548 on:** December 22, 2021, 09:43:48 AM »

Thank God it worked! Thank you so much, @RDC. I finally did it! I used a lead from a wire LED I bought very cheap and used it as a bridge between the RB tactile switch lead and the part of the board I scraped. Could someone please tell me how to insert images here, so that I can help other people with the same issue? Every time I try to insert an image, this appears:

"[ img ] [ / img ]" (and I don't know what to do about it)

RDC · « **Reply #549 on:** December 22, 2021, 10:17:04 AM »

Those are just the image tags, so that the link to the picture you place between those tags will make the image show in the forum here. You need to have the image uploaded somewhere first, like Google Photos, Imgur, etc, etc, and then use the link to the image. Also do try to keep them to a decent size, not everyone runs a massive monitor.

student705 · « **Reply #550 on:** December 22, 2021, 10:41:22 AM »

Site has a bug that makes pictures unable to be seen, so I'll leave links to them. Hope it helps someone someday.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uE8hLurfMYwm5bBt6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BqWT92NVeTrA4A9C7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/vzmrJwXg642LkU2b8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UVqvkQ8BRsKkrkYp7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9XYuDptLik9ptxmW9

Proof it worked: https://youtu.be/whAtROGV2tk

student705 · « **Reply #551 on:** December 23, 2021, 07:53:59 PM »

Toffe · « **Reply #552 on:** December 28, 2021, 02:21:26 PM »

I'm planning to use my xbox one controller (1708) for controlling remote controlled vehicles (in my case an ROV), but I'm not entirely sure how to read data from the controller with an Arduino. Can I leave the controller circuit boards intact and power it from the battery and just tap into the I2C bus for reading the button presses and use test points for the joystick axes? Or do I have to cut any traces to some of the onboard chips?`

I hopew this isn't considered off topic and would highy appreciate anyone taking their time to respond!

RDC · « **Reply #553 on:** December 28, 2021, 05:47:07 PM »

A really nice way to go about it would be to use some kind of wireless dongle so the controller isn't even touched, but I could probably get a snake to juggle before I could pull that off.

Reading the data from the controller in a 'brute force' kind of way like that is pretty straight forward, but should be step 2 in your process there if that's how you plan to go about it. How are you going to keep the controller powered on to read any data from it? If you are running it off the battery pack or AA, it's going to be in wireless mode and looking for something to Sync to, and when it doesn't find anything it will turn itself off. You might be able to get around that by faking the Power OK so the thing stays powered on, but I have never tried that and even if it worked have no idea if the thing would continue to function correctly as the MCU could be setup to time out there or who knows what.

Powering it from the USB connector kind of bypasses that and will keep it running and spitting out data as that puts it into more of a wired controller mode. Then you can tap onto the controller and read it, but then you either need a 5v source or jerry rig the controller up so it thinks it's on 5v when it's not, and that's honestly more of a pain than just running it from some 5v source.

You can tap onto the I2C to read everything except the B, LSC, RSC, LT, RT and Sticks, as those are all on the MCU board. Reading the Triggers will be a pain all their own if you plan to use those also. If the I2C method becomes a hassle, you can always just tap onto each of the button lines that you want to read directly instead, though that will take more IO than using the I2C method. Using the I2C you'll get up to 12 buttons using only 2 IO, whereas directly wired you'd need 12 IO for the same 12 buttons.

Qball · « **Reply #554 on:** January 01, 2022, 07:56:00 AM »

What chip is responsible for making the 3.3v rail. Based on your schematic I would assume U4. I am asking because I have a board missing the 3.3v rails it puts out just a little over .1V, but it does have 5 volts coming into the board

RDC · « **Reply #555 on:** January 01, 2022, 08:54:32 AM »

U4 is the IO Expander. U3 (U3T in that schematic, I need to update that thing) is responsible for making the 3.3v rail.

If you are running it from the USB cable, that 5v does not go directly to U3. The 5v first goes to U1 (U1T) and is knocked down to 3v, then that 3v goes to U3 to make the 3.3v rail.

Qball · « **Reply #556 on:** January 01, 2022, 09:24:42 AM »

Thank you that is rather helpful now I can try to figure out at what point I have a failure

RDC · « **Reply #557 on:** January 01, 2022, 12:19:09 PM »

If you are testing the controller as a complete unit, that is both boards plugged together, there might be some short on the 3.3v rail of the MCU board and that is why you will not have that voltage.

You can test the voltages of the top board all by itself to make sure they are all working. Just unplug it from the bottom board, then plug up the USB cable and all 3 of the voltages that it makes should be there.

U1 = 3v
U2 = 3.5v
U3 = 3.3v

Qball · « **Reply #558 on:** January 01, 2022, 12:53:51 PM »

I believe somewhere on my top board there is a shirt as it seems to have killed what was a good power board

Qball · « **Reply #559 on:** January 02, 2022, 08:30:12 PM »

Well after replacing U1 I got upgraded from .1v to a half a volt so time to look for issues elsewhere. I am testing just the power board at this time

RDC · « **Reply #560 on:** January 02, 2022, 10:32:06 PM »

Not really much on that 3v/B+ rail. You could remove U2 and U3, then test and see if U1 is back to 3v, if it goes back to 3v then it's one of those chips or something on their outputs. If it stays low it's a decoupling cap or some issue I haven't seen before. You could also inject 3v on TP34 and see what gets warm first.

Qball · « **Reply #561 on:** January 04, 2022, 02:30:45 PM »

Could r18 being missing cause issues I noticed I accidentally knocked it off replacing u1

RDC · « **Reply #562 on:** January 04, 2022, 02:40:59 PM »

Yes. No R18 means no voltage divider for the FeedBack circuit of U1.

Qball · « **Reply #563 on:** January 04, 2022, 02:50:06 PM »

Looking over the schematic you provided it looks like r18 is the only resistor of that value on the board is that correct?

RDC · « **Reply #564 on:** January 04, 2022, 03:02:59 PM »

Yep. It should be a 1% or better tolerance Resistor also.

student705 · « **Reply #565 on:** January 06, 2022, 08:20:27 PM »

Well, something odd happened. After replacing my RB tactile switch (as posted above), my controller only works when connected to the console/pc with a USB cable, but it won't work using AA batteries anymore. It doesn't even turn on. Works fine with a cable, though, as I said. Any ideas on what could've happened here? I left the controller in the same state shown in the pictures I posted above and only repaired the RB (didn't even touch on anything else).

RDC · « **Reply #566 on:** January 07, 2022, 01:39:39 AM »

Can't see everything in those pics. Make sure you didn't put the AA battery posts behind the shell when putting it all back together and that L1 is still on the top board.

student705 · « **Reply #567 on:** January 07, 2022, 08:55:11 AM »

The issue had to do with the shell not fitting correctly.

Turns out it didn't have anything to do with electronics. While replacing the RB tact switch, I accidentaly burned/melted and deformed that plastic piece that fits in the sync button with the hot soldering iron

. As a consequence, the shell wasn't fitting correctly to the board (the deformed part was preventing the shell from fitting completely). So make sure you guys remove plastic pieces that get in the way before soldering anything so that you don't make the same mistake I did.
As I had deformed only the right side of that plastic piece, and the left side was still intact, I just used a knife to sort of carve the right side so that it became more similar to the left one. Well, it seems my carving abilities are somewhat good, surprisingly, because after making one side similar to the other again, as it should (since both sides are originally symmetrical), the shell fitted correctly again and my controller started to work with AA batteries.

Qball · « **Reply #568 on:** January 10, 2022, 08:23:06 PM »

So after replacing r18 and still having no change, I decided to do what I should've in the first place and make sure U1 is being told to turn on. So naturally next thing is to check for 5v at D23 and I have about a volt. I go all the way to the micro USB connector still only about a volt. My best guess is something has to be shorting the 5v line to ground now to find it

DagaEcu · « **Reply #569 on:** January 15, 2022, 07:04:34 AM »

I had a short on C33 on the output of U3(mp3414 ic) 3.3v line, its a 1206 capacitor, I replaced it with a 22uF 16V 1206 for testing, the controller is working but I would Like to replace with the right value before a long use. Please help me

News:

Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 422543 times)