Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 422531 times)

RDC · « **Reply #600 on:** July 11, 2022, 07:01:36 PM »

Well, you're not doing something right, because point 3 of U11 is ground, there is no way on earth for that to measure 3.3v.

Razzledazzle · « **Reply #601 on:** July 11, 2022, 07:03:35 PM »

Did some cleanup on the board a little , saw a little splash under my jumper so got that out. I?m hooked up to game pad tester and upon connecting nothing shows pressed, if I press right trigger it activates both left and right trigger but when I release RT shows unpressed LT shows pressed. Disconnect, reconnect to GP Tester press LT and release and LT shows still pressed.

Razzledazzle · « **Reply #602 on:** July 11, 2022, 07:21:31 PM »

Quote from: RDC on July 11, 2022, 07:01:36 PM

Well, you're not doing something right, because point 3 of U11 is ground, there is no way on earth for that to measure 3.3v.

You?re right, I?m a big dummy 😂 I was using TP9 as ground because it?s right beside TP21 I got them mixed up.

TP68 shows 0V

Point 3 gives 0V
Point 2 gives 0V
Point 1 gives 1V

RDC · « **Reply #603 on:** July 12, 2022, 03:39:26 PM »

Clean all of that up good with a Q-tip or old toothbrush with the bristles cut short and some rubbing alcohol then test it again.

Razzledazzle · « **Reply #604 on:** July 12, 2022, 06:31:12 PM »

All shows the same after a good cleaning except Point 2 now shows 0.02V. Does this seem accurate?

Razzledazzle · « **Reply #605 on:** July 12, 2022, 06:42:30 PM »

I just checked the other side , looks like TP68 is getting 0.10 and the U10 port 2 has 0.10 as well

RDC · « **Reply #606 on:** July 12, 2022, 06:47:22 PM »

You really need a scope to see what's going on there for sure, but the meter should measure around 1.3v on pin 1, then 0.3v on pin 2 of U11, with the magnets in the Triggers away from the Hall sensors. You can also measure U10 for comparison, as it's the same Hall sensor, just for the RT instead of LT.

If you have around 1v on pin 1, and 0v on pin 2, then that suggests either the LT line is shorted to ground somewhere, or the Hall sensor has gone bad.

KidCarloMagno · « **Reply #607 on:** July 18, 2022, 07:24:18 PM »

Hello!
I'm kind of new to modding, so forgive me if this is basic, but I was wondering if there is a way to completely block the analog sticks, I already removed them, but theres still some movement on the pad tester.
Thank u for this post, this is being really usefull for my arcade stick mod.

RDC · « **Reply #608 on:** July 18, 2022, 08:07:28 PM »

With no POTs installed the Analog lines are now floating and that will cause all kinds of issues.

360 controller shown, but it works the same for any that have the POT style sticks. Resistor value isn't super critical, just make sure they are all the same, 10k for all of them will work fine. They do not have to be SMT, they can be thru hole 1/8W or 1/4W or whatever really.

KidCarloMagno · « **Reply #609 on:** July 18, 2022, 08:16:16 PM »

Got it.
Thanks a lot.

Darkelf · « **Reply #610 on:** July 20, 2022, 03:44:41 AM »

Hi admin CAn you help me?

RDC · « **Reply #611 on:** July 20, 2022, 07:29:51 AM »

Connect the 2 outside leads of the POTs together first.

Top Arrow to the Right side of the other POT, V to V.

Bottom Arrow to the Left side of the other POT, G to G.

Middle arrow connect to TP63 there in the middle of the TP spots, Y to Y.

Code: [Select]

             TP68  TP63  TP64
               O     Y    O
         G  X  V
     [-]         [-]
G  L                 V  <--
                     Y  <--
G  L                 G  <--
     [-]         [-]

Darkelf · « **Reply #612 on:** July 20, 2022, 08:03:24 AM »

it worked on you. thank you very much.

RDC · « **Reply #613 on:** July 20, 2022, 09:15:54 AM »

Welcome.

Razzledazzle · « **Reply #614 on:** August 21, 2022, 07:48:18 PM »

Quote from: RDC on July 12, 2022, 06:47:22 PM

You really need a scope to see what's going on there for sure, but the meter should measure around 1.3v on pin 1, then 0.3v on pin 2 of U11, with the magnets in the Triggers away from the Hall sensors. You can also measure U10 for comparison, as it's the same Hall sensor, just for the RT instead of LT.

If you have around 1v on pin 1, and 0v on pin 2, then that suggests either the LT line is shorted to ground somewhere, or the Hall sensor has gone bad.

I replaced the hall sensor today and still getting the same outcome . How would I test to determine where the LT might be shorting to ground?

Thanks in advance

RDC · « **Reply #615 on:** August 22, 2022, 07:35:26 AM »

Measure the Resistance of TP68 to ground, then TP67 to ground and compare them. They should be close to the same. If TP68 is much lower, then suspect C38 (470nF) or a short on the LT line from U11p2 to the MCU or an issue with the MCU.

bumblebee · « **Reply #616 on:** September 10, 2022, 11:53:51 AM »

HI everyone . i have a problem with my controller LB and up D-PAD doesn't work i check it and the problem is not on BUTTON/POWER BOARD it's on Mcu board and do u know where LB and UP D-PAD goes on mcu board cuz i can trace it thx in advance and Im knew

RDC · « **Reply #617 on:** September 10, 2022, 11:58:12 AM »

The 1708 schematic is on the first page.

LB and DU are on the IO expander of the top board, so there is no LB and DU connections on the MCU board, all of those top board buttons are done over an I2C connection to the MCU.

bumblebee · « **Reply #618 on:** September 10, 2022, 01:56:36 PM »

sorry but I tried tp19 but still didn't work do have any suggetion and thx lot

RDC · « **Reply #619 on:** September 10, 2022, 02:44:17 PM »

You said the problem is not on the button/power board, but not how you came to that conclusion. Every time I have seen, or anyone on here has had an issue with more than one button not working, U4 has been the problem, and that is on the top board.

bumblebee · « **Reply #620 on:** September 10, 2022, 02:50:06 PM »

thx mate mayeb ill change U4 and see if that works

Zokom · « **Reply #621 on:** September 15, 2022, 11:06:17 AM »

Hello, I just registered so I apologize if I made a wrong first step, anyway I have a friend of mine which gave me his Xbox one controller to fix because the RB button is always working, I thought it was a faulty switch so I proceeded to solder a new one on the board but the problem persist, so I even tried de-soldering the switch and test the controller without the RB switch and it still register as active! I don't know where to look at in the circuit scheme to find a solution, any ideas? Thanks for helping!

RDC · « **Reply #622 on:** September 16, 2022, 01:00:30 AM »

You can check the Resistance across the RB button pads, and that should be a couple of Meg ohms or more. If the Resistance value is low, in the Kilo ohm range or lower, then it could be C29 or D3 on that board is bad. Remove both and test again, if the Resistance value is till low then I would suspect U4 on that board is bad.

Zokom · « **Reply #623 on:** September 17, 2022, 06:53:29 AM »

Quote from: RDC on September 16, 2022, 01:00:30 AM

You can check the Resistance across the RB button pads, and that should be a couple of Meg ohms or more. If the Resistance value is low, in the Kilo ohm range or lower, then it could be C29 or D3 on that board is bad. Remove both and test again, if the Resistance value is till low then I would suspect U4 on that board is bad.

I tried testing the apparently faulty pads and I get different values between RB and LB, LB have much more ohm than RB, so how can I exclude others components?

szadon · « **Reply #624 on:** October 08, 2022, 07:25:10 AM »

Hi. I have controller with view button not responsive. If I checking right test point for that button is tp25. Where I should solder wire to bypass broken trace ?

RDC · « **Reply #625 on:** October 08, 2022, 01:27:19 PM »

No idea where the break is, so no idea where you would need to jumper it. If TP25 does not go low when you press View, then follow the trace back from TP25 to the view button and find where it is open. If TP25 does go low when you press View, then check the trace from TP25 to U4p15. If the trace is good then suspect U4 is bad.

magiver_fox31 · « **Reply #626 on:** October 30, 2022, 07:38:54 AM »

Hello, Awesome community.

I have a drift issue with the left stick, I removed the left stick the issue remains I also changed the left stick and the issue remains any ideas?

BR

RDC · « **Reply #627 on:** October 30, 2022, 08:05:30 AM »

With no stick installed the analog lines float and will do all kinds of weird things.

Aside from the drift, does it otherwise work? or is it not drifting and is stuck in some direction?

Pykess · « **Reply #628 on:** November 03, 2022, 08:47:32 AM »

Quote from: RDC on January 29, 2021, 09:51:39 AM

Incorrect. It has pretty much the same outer shape as a miniHDMI connector, but that is a 19 pin connector. The one in the XB1 controller is only a 12 pin. I haven't gone looking for a mate for it, so hard to say what it is exactly.

Sorry to necro this, but I've been trying DESPERATELY to find a male plug for this. Do you have any new information or places I should be looking?

I am designing a touchpad attachment and I'd rather not have to include a separate battery. I really only need power and ground. I of course have already tried forcing a mini HDMI plug (lol that didn't work). Right now it's looking like my only option is to buy cheap accessories to dissect them for the plug.

RDC · « **Reply #629 on:** November 03, 2022, 05:07:47 PM »

If the Touchpad interfaces with the controller, why not run the power/ground lines with the rest?

I've honestly never gone gone hunting for that connector mate, and if I did I'd probably start on eBay or AliExpress for it. After that I'd just look on eBay or even yard sales for some either used or cheap peripherals like you mentioned, at least then you'll know it's going to plug in there.

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 422531 times)