XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim"

[atomsk]

here's the damage done. What should i do with the ground connections ? I have attempt it to connect the analogue but as you can imagine it doesn't work at all



I drew the following. GREEN is Ground (if i'm not mistaken) and RED pads need to be replaced and connected to the wiring again. My guess is that GREEN doesn't have to be soldered necessarily at all points.

[atomsk]

I came up with this . I'm going to rewire everything according to the below picture using wires not traces since the solder pads are gone. Can you please tell me if looks OK ? Did i miss anything ?

[RDC]

TP71 does not go to RSC.

RSX is still open.

Both grounds for the POTs are still open.

[atomsk]

what is RSX ? what grounds are open .. i don't understand a thing 

[RDC]

[fatc2k6]

Hi, i was wondering if i could get some advice on where to start with repairing a few of my controllers instead of having to spend $'s replacing them.
Im not completely tech minded but have succusfully replaced a couple of analogue sticks in the past but dont know where to start with these issues so any helps greatly appreciated

Controller 1 ) rattly light rumble

Controller 2 ) lsc not working when pressed

Controller 3 ) left trigger slightly activated on its own

I thought i would start with controller 1 believing it to be the easiest by just changing over the motor however after changing the motor for a new one the rattle is still there when activated?
I have changed it with a know working one from one of the other controllers also but the problem is still there? The motor spins as it should but just makes a rattling noise.

I do have a multimeter at hand but am no electrician by any means so if points need probing a bit of guidance of what setting on the meter i should be using would be really helpful and if the info is already a posted a point to the right page if you could.

TIA

[RDC]

Any rattling is most likely the motor not being held in there properly or something else in the shell making that noise. If the actual motor is making a weird noise, then the driver or support components for it could be suspect.

[Prophet254]

Hi RDC,

A friend attempted a repair on his 1708 controller with stick drift, the analog stick was replaced but now the only things that work are the center xbox button, analog sticks and triggers. now it is my problem, I am wondering if the sloppy soldering has killed the U4 io expander, whether you see anything obvious in the pictures or any advice you may have. i am wondering if i can get a TSSOP24 version of U4 and manually wire it in place of U4 to repair the io expander functionality as i dont have the capacity for hot air. I am also wondering if U4 is PCAL6416A or TCA6416RTWR as your schematic and post seem to contradict each other

https://imgur.com/a/y0Y3qQK

If you have any advice at all that would be super helpful! thanks

[RDC]

U4 on the top board is the IO expander, U4 on the bottom board there is for the LT and Heavy Rumble.

No contradiction, both of the aforementioned chips are 6416 IO expanders. One is made by NXP and the other is TI and either can be used.

The soldering is just a shade on the heavy side, but I don't see anything at all wrong with it or around there, also, there's really nothing over there that would mess with the IO expander. I'd suspect and issue on the top board for that kind of no button problem first, but wouldn't rule out an issue on the bottom board. Give the connectors on both boards a good look and see if any joints are broken, and check the top board for any missing components. The Reset line to that U4 on the top there can go open and will cause it to not work also.

[Prophet254]

Thanks for the advice RDC!

I see now the correct U4, I did think there were not very many connections! Haha. I have been over the whole board several times and couldn?t find anything out of place, on the top or the bottom board. No issues with the connector or any traces heading away from them. I removed the analog stick and checked all the traces underneath for damage. Reset on the io expander is ok also.

I saw that the B button runs directly into the SOC and not through the io expander so after tracing back to the pad from the soc I have come to the conclusion the soc has been semi-killed as you would expect the b button to work at least as it is a direct input.

Anyway, all this to say thanks for the advice and I give up!

[RDC]

Yeah B, LSC and RSC are all 'direct' inputs to the SOC. They each have their own Resistor they go thru before getting to the SOC. For no buttons, including B, to not be working while the Sticks and Triggers are working is pretty odd. Do LSC and RSC work?

[Prophet254]

LSC and RSC do not work, only functionality is triggers, analog sticks and center xbox button

[RDC]

That's really interesting. See if it needs a firmware update and if that straightens it out.

[Dark Knight_TJ]

Hi guys , what part number are Q6 and Q7?

[RDC]

Hi guys , what part number are Q6 and Q7?

Really?

[taskonacic]

Hi,
I dont have 0.9V on TP64, I have 0,9V on TP63. (Y asix works, X axis doesn't).
Where can be the problem?
Thanks in advance!

[RDC]

The RSX-axis line is shorted to ground, or the more likely issue is the 1.8v is not getting to the RSX POT.

[P3T3]

Big thanks for all the info and work on this thread..
I have 2 xb controllers, first has lost allot of pads, tried to do jumper fix but thumb stick is still dead.



Second pic, one jumper, the jumper has the thumb stick working but the other thumb stick (no work on it) is dead. Check board, can?t see anything bridged or missing, need voltage test point I think.



Any pointers would be good,
Thank you.

[taskonacic]

The RSX-axis line is shorted to ground, or the more likely issue is the 1.8v is not getting to the RSX POT.

   O          O
G                   B  o
Y
V                   B  o
   O          O
      V X G

G = Ground
Y = 0.958V (same on TP63)
X = 0.007V (same on TP64)
V = 1.794V
If you mean V is RSX-pot I have 1.794V. Changed left stick but same result.

EDIT: I saw that someone soldered a jumper instead of capacitor C24, I removed the jumper and got the required voltage and the controller now works. Thank you.

[RDC]

The 3 connections are the entire POT, V, X/Y and G. The V is the AN+ (1.8v) for the POT. That jumper in place of C24 was the RSX-axis short to ground.

[RDC]

@ P3T3 - Check the voltages on the dead stick.

That other one that's a real mess, I'd remove all of that and see what is and isn't there first.

[xboxall]

Hi,the L3 or Left stick click of my xbox one s's controller stopped working all of a sudden,I replaced the left Analog stick with a new one but still not working.I think there is something wrong with the board.I want to know which part is faulty.R16?
All of buttons,triggers,bumpers,D-Pad and ... are fine except Left stick click.
Thanks.

[RDC]

There are multiple places where that LSC could fail, no one is going to know exactly where the problem is. Could be the new stick button is also bad, or R16, or a broken trace or bad solder joint or via at any one of several places on that entire LSC line or even the MCU that has the issue.

[xboxall]

There are multiple places where that LSC could fail, no one is going to know exactly where the problem is. Could be the new stick button is also bad, or R16, or a broken trace or bad solder joint or via at any one of several places on that entire LSC line or even the MCU that has the issue.

Is it fixable?I mean looking for a bad capacitor or resistor via multimeter and replace it with new one?

[Darkelf]

I changed the rb swich because it didn't work, but the same problem persists. no response, can you help

[Darkelf]

Admin can you help me?

[RDC]

Doesn't work at all? or it acts like it is pressed all the time?

The RSY POT isn't soldered on that board, and I doubt it's related, but floating Analog lines like that can cause all kinds of weird issues. Also, no telling what all else has been done to that board from just that pic.

Can't make out what kind of soldering job is on those leads from that pic, so the issue could be there. Trace could be open from RB to U4p5 or U4 could be bad. If it acts lie it's pressed all the time, then the RB trace is shorted to ground somewhere or U4 is bad.

[Darkelf]

button does not work at all

thx for ansver @admin

[Darkelf]

Doesn't work at all? or it acts like it is pressed all the time?

The RSY POT isn't soldered on that board, and I doubt it's related, but floating Analog lines like that can cause all kinds of weird issues. Also, no telling what all else has been done to that board from just that pic.

Can't make out what kind of soldering job is on those leads from that pic, so the issue could be there. Trace could be open from RB to U4p5 or U4 could be bad. If it acts lie it's pressed all the time, then the RB trace is shorted to ground somewhere or U4 is bad.

button does not work at all

[RDC]

Trace is most likely open somewhere, right at that solder joint is where I'd look first.