XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim"

[RDC]

Any rattling is most likely the motor not being held in there properly or something else in the shell making that noise. If the actual motor is making a weird noise, then the driver or support components for it could be suspect.

[Prophet254]

Hi RDC,

A friend attempted a repair on his 1708 controller with stick drift, the analog stick was replaced but now the only things that work are the center xbox button, analog sticks and triggers. now it is my problem, I am wondering if the sloppy soldering has killed the U4 io expander, whether you see anything obvious in the pictures or any advice you may have. i am wondering if i can get a TSSOP24 version of U4 and manually wire it in place of U4 to repair the io expander functionality as i dont have the capacity for hot air. I am also wondering if U4 is PCAL6416A or TCA6416RTWR as your schematic and post seem to contradict each other

https://imgur.com/a/y0Y3qQK

If you have any advice at all that would be super helpful! thanks

[RDC]

U4 on the top board is the IO expander, U4 on the bottom board there is for the LT and Heavy Rumble.

No contradiction, both of the aforementioned chips are 6416 IO expanders. One is made by NXP and the other is TI and either can be used.

The soldering is just a shade on the heavy side, but I don't see anything at all wrong with it or around there, also, there's really nothing over there that would mess with the IO expander. I'd suspect and issue on the top board for that kind of no button problem first, but wouldn't rule out an issue on the bottom board. Give the connectors on both boards a good look and see if any joints are broken, and check the top board for any missing components. The Reset line to that U4 on the top there can go open and will cause it to not work also.

[Prophet254]

Thanks for the advice RDC!

I see now the correct U4, I did think there were not very many connections! Haha. I have been over the whole board several times and couldn?t find anything out of place, on the top or the bottom board. No issues with the connector or any traces heading away from them. I removed the analog stick and checked all the traces underneath for damage. Reset on the io expander is ok also.

I saw that the B button runs directly into the SOC and not through the io expander so after tracing back to the pad from the soc I have come to the conclusion the soc has been semi-killed as you would expect the b button to work at least as it is a direct input.

Anyway, all this to say thanks for the advice and I give up!

[RDC]

Yeah B, LSC and RSC are all 'direct' inputs to the SOC. They each have their own Resistor they go thru before getting to the SOC. For no buttons, including B, to not be working while the Sticks and Triggers are working is pretty odd. Do LSC and RSC work?

[Prophet254]

LSC and RSC do not work, only functionality is triggers, analog sticks and center xbox button

[RDC]

That's really interesting. See if it needs a firmware update and if that straightens it out.

[Dark Knight_TJ]

Hi guys , what part number are Q6 and Q7?

[RDC]

Hi guys , what part number are Q6 and Q7?

Really?

[taskonacic]

Hi,
I dont have 0.9V on TP64, I have 0,9V on TP63. (Y asix works, X axis doesn't).
Where can be the problem?
Thanks in advance!

[RDC]

The RSX-axis line is shorted to ground, or the more likely issue is the 1.8v is not getting to the RSX POT.

[P3T3]

Big thanks for all the info and work on this thread..
I have 2 xb controllers, first has lost allot of pads, tried to do jumper fix but thumb stick is still dead.



Second pic, one jumper, the jumper has the thumb stick working but the other thumb stick (no work on it) is dead. Check board, can?t see anything bridged or missing, need voltage test point I think.



Any pointers would be good,
Thank you.

[taskonacic]

The RSX-axis line is shorted to ground, or the more likely issue is the 1.8v is not getting to the RSX POT.

   O          O
G                   B  o
Y
V                   B  o
   O          O
      V X G

G = Ground
Y = 0.958V (same on TP63)
X = 0.007V (same on TP64)
V = 1.794V
If you mean V is RSX-pot I have 1.794V. Changed left stick but same result.

EDIT: I saw that someone soldered a jumper instead of capacitor C24, I removed the jumper and got the required voltage and the controller now works. Thank you.

[RDC]

The 3 connections are the entire POT, V, X/Y and G. The V is the AN+ (1.8v) for the POT. That jumper in place of C24 was the RSX-axis short to ground.

[RDC]

@ P3T3 - Check the voltages on the dead stick.

That other one that's a real mess, I'd remove all of that and see what is and isn't there first.

[xboxall]

Hi,the L3 or Left stick click of my xbox one s's controller stopped working all of a sudden,I replaced the left Analog stick with a new one but still not working.I think there is something wrong with the board.I want to know which part is faulty.R16?
All of buttons,triggers,bumpers,D-Pad and ... are fine except Left stick click.
Thanks.

[RDC]

There are multiple places where that LSC could fail, no one is going to know exactly where the problem is. Could be the new stick button is also bad, or R16, or a broken trace or bad solder joint or via at any one of several places on that entire LSC line or even the MCU that has the issue.

[xboxall]

There are multiple places where that LSC could fail, no one is going to know exactly where the problem is. Could be the new stick button is also bad, or R16, or a broken trace or bad solder joint or via at any one of several places on that entire LSC line or even the MCU that has the issue.

Is it fixable?I mean looking for a bad capacitor or resistor via multimeter and replace it with new one?

[Darkelf]

I changed the rb swich because it didn't work, but the same problem persists. no response, can you help

[Darkelf]

Admin can you help me?

[RDC]

Doesn't work at all? or it acts like it is pressed all the time?

The RSY POT isn't soldered on that board, and I doubt it's related, but floating Analog lines like that can cause all kinds of weird issues. Also, no telling what all else has been done to that board from just that pic.

Can't make out what kind of soldering job is on those leads from that pic, so the issue could be there. Trace could be open from RB to U4p5 or U4 could be bad. If it acts lie it's pressed all the time, then the RB trace is shorted to ground somewhere or U4 is bad.

[Darkelf]

button does not work at all

thx for ansver @admin

[RDC]

Trace is most likely open somewhere, right at that solder joint is where I'd look first.

[blinkerss]

create an account for saying thank you so much for @RDC, because without this priceless thread, my 1708 would still be dead.

long story short: my 1708 suddenly dead, and the symptomp is U1 is get hot as hell, after reading this thread and buying cheap air solder, I'm removing the U1 chip and now my 1708 working like charm again (but always needing the battery pack when I'm playing in PC with cable connected)

thanks!!!  

[RDC]

Welcome.

U1 is needed for powering the controller over the USB, that's pretty much all that it does. It's an MP2161GJ if you want to replace it, and you can find it at DigiKey, Mouser and several other online parts places.

[blinkerss]

I think i'm just let this 1708 with less U1, making this 1708 have one less point of failure.

Thanks again RDC 

[Ixnay]

Hello, greetings to all. Trying to solder a wire I have lifted the POWER Board pad TP19 (LB). Is there any way to fix it?


I thank you in advance if someone could help me and I apologize if there is something wrong in my message, since English is not my language.


EDIT: I just realized that the absence of that pad does not influence the operation of LB. I have connected the cable directly to the output pin of the LB switch. Thank you.

[KeptWolf769]

Hi everyone, my old xbox one s controller had severe stick drift on both sticks so I attempted to try and replace them myself with the help of some youtube guides, I was able to replace the right stick and it works perfectly now, but I made a rookie mistake and didn't apply flux and ovoerheated my soldering iron so I damaged all three through holes for the Y potentiometer on the left stick. It was my first time soldering. Everything about the controller works but I desoldered the Y potentiometer since it sticks to 100% upwards when I apply a conductive adhesive and forcefully solder all 3 holes. Is there anything I can do about it? I came across this website while looking for a solution and i think I'm learning a lot just reading through posts. It is the same module shown in the pictures (1708). I know for a noob who knows nothing it will be a pain teaching but any help would be much appreciated.

[Qball]

Hi everyone, my old xbox one s controller had severe stick drift on both sticks so I attempted to try and replace them myself with the help of some youtube guides, I was able to replace the right stick and it works perfectly now, but I made a rookie mistake and didn't apply flux and ovoerheated my soldering iron so I damaged all three through holes for the Y potentiometer on the left stick. It was my first time soldering. Everything about the controller works but I desoldered the Y potentiometer since it sticks to 100% upwards when I apply a conductive adhesive and forcefully solder all 3 holes. Is there anything I can do about it? I came across this website while looking for a solution and i think I'm learning a lot just reading through posts. It is the same module shown in the pictures (1708). I know for a noob who knows nothing it will be a pain teaching but any help would be much appreciated.

At this point you're gonna have to solder either to TP's or to the SOC

[KeptWolf769]

Yeah, I want to know which Tp to solder each point to, since all 3 of the potentiometer?s through holes are damaged. And I want to know if all 3 can be linked together or each pin on the potential has a different tp to be connected to.