Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 223618 times)

KeptWolf769 · « **Reply #690 on:** April 22, 2023, 06:51:22 PM »

Quote from: Qball on April 21, 2023, 08:06:23 PM

At this point you're gonna have to solder either to TP's or to the SOC

Can I combine all 3 pins on the pot and bridge it to a single TP?

eniac22 · « **Reply #691 on:** May 03, 2023, 10:35:07 AM »

Can tell me the specs of c20, c22 capacitors?

Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #692 on:** May 03, 2023, 10:47:59 AM »

You didn't specify which of the 3 boards. If it's the bottom or top boards, then the values are in the schematics, and if it's the bottom board, then it's not going to matter if they are there or not.

RDC · « **Reply #693 on:** May 03, 2023, 10:49:09 AM »

@ KeptWolf769 - No you can not solder all 3 pins of the POT together, you'll cause a short and the controller will not turn on.

eniac22 · « **Reply #694 on:** May 03, 2023, 12:03:57 PM »

Quote from: RDC on May 03, 2023, 10:47:59 AM

You didn't specify which of the 3 boards. If it's the bottom or top boards, then the values are in the schematics, and if it's the bottom board, then it's not going to matter if they are there or not.

Is for the bottom, Thanks i find it !!

Ixnay · « **Reply #695 on:** May 04, 2023, 04:45:06 PM »

Hello again, I just shot another pad, in this case TP67 and now it does affect the operation of RT (it stays pressed). Is there any way to fix it?

Thanks in advance.

RDC · « **Reply #696 on:** May 05, 2023, 04:31:37 PM »

Stop using that kind of wire for starters. Get yourself some 30awg Kynar wire or Wrapping wire.

That TP67 is right in the middle of the trace run, so you've just opened it up is all. You'll need to solder a jumper wire from the bottom of C36/R39 to the Via that is just below the T in TP67.

Ixnay · « **Reply #697 on:** May 05, 2023, 05:54:59 PM »

Hello RDC, Thank you very much for helping me and for your advice, the truth is that I am a true noob with electronics although learning and experimenting new things entertains me a lot. This world has always caught my attention and for that there is a lot of interesting information in this forum. I'll get the cable you recommended before continuing to liquidate pads 😅. I already imagined that the solution started from C36/R39, I already used that point to read value with an adc module, which I didn't know where to bridge to.

Again thank you very much for your help.

RDC · « **Reply #698 on:** May 05, 2023, 06:18:05 PM »

Welcome.

simfun · « **Reply #699 on:** May 17, 2023, 03:20:00 PM »

Hello, very glad to find this forum with these kind of useful information.

simfun · « **Reply #700 on:** May 17, 2023, 03:33:50 PM »

I am thinking to connect the LSX pin to the corresponding pin (54) of the MCU, after spoiling the test pad TP64. Will that be enough, or should i do anything more at the other side of the PCB?

https://tinyurl.com/4369nct8

Qball · « **Reply #701 on:** May 17, 2023, 05:37:25 PM »

Quote from: KeptWolf769 on April 22, 2023, 06:51:22 PM

Can I combine all 3 pins on the pot and bridge it to a single TP?

No each pin is smth different. If my memory serves me, looking at the bottom 3 from left to right I wanna say 3.3v then output then ground. And then the side pins bottom to top would be 3.3v then output then ground

Qball · « **Reply #702 on:** May 17, 2023, 05:40:18 PM »

Quote from: simfun on May 17, 2023, 03:33:50 PM

I am thinking to connect the LSX pin to the corresponding pin (54) of the MCU, after spoiling the test pad TP64. Will that be enough, or should i do anything more at the other side of the PCB?

https://tinyurl.com/4369nct8

Should work I've done it on a few controllers because I used too much heat on the TP oh well we live and we learn. I will say in my experience it was a bit tricky maybe mainly just because my tips tended to be a bit big for it and trying to hold the wire in place was tricky but it can be done and will work

VaNDAL_UK · « **Reply #703 on:** July 02, 2023, 11:25:08 AM »

This guy is lifting and shifting your pictures and schematics. Normally that might be ok but he's rebranding them as his own.. Check the vid for proof.. You can clearly see the watermarks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWWz5RYyF_Q&t=643s

Veksh · « **Reply #704 on:** July 17, 2023, 11:14:12 AM »

Hi all! Can anyone help me with my problem? After the fall, the XB1s 1708 controller had a crack on the BUTTON / POWER BOARD and the J1 connector came off, restored the tracks.
The problem is that the controller does not turn on with the guide button from batteries, but turns on from the wire and continues to work without it on batteries. Also, after turning on the guide, the button is fully functional.

RDC · « **Reply #705 on:** July 17, 2023, 12:01:35 PM »

That issue is around here on the forums in a few places. On the power board, Q8, Q9 or something in that circuit is bad. Make sure D26 is good also.

Veksh · « **Reply #706 on:** July 17, 2023, 12:44:40 PM »

Thanks for the hint, when I get to the board I will check Q8/Q9 and the schematics.
Another interesting fact, the native MCU (broken tracks, I restored the tracks) from the kick controller does not turn on the controller at all, but it works fine in another controller

oninomus · « **Reply #707 on:** September 07, 2023, 10:17:34 AM »

hello RDC. i do really need help. i messed up the board pad. tried to fix stick drift on right stick analog. the red and blue dot is where i destroyed the board pad. tried to make jumper from red dot to Pin TP66. and then the analog working and i'm too excited but i messed up again.

accidently pulled the wire jumper and it snapped from Pin TP66. Try to solder again. but it did not stick. i'm kinda new to this repair hobby. hope you can help me. i need to to know where can i make jumper and what should i do.

https://imgur.com/hb33nK4

RDC · « **Reply #708 on:** September 07, 2023, 10:36:55 AM »

Since that's not a picture of your actual board, I have to guess that you've torn the TP66 pad off there now. You'll need to solder to the connection just above it instead, the fourth from the left there.

WNKLER · « **Reply #709 on:** October 02, 2023, 07:00:12 PM »

As far as I understand...

The IO Expander on first party xbox controllers is infamously sampled at just 124hz.
The controller will respond when polled up to 1000hz but it will send a stale input state until the IO Expander is sampled again.

What is setting the sample rate to 124hz?
What's the likelihood that this is set in firmware and not a hardware limitation?

Also, I believe the analog sticks are also sampled at 124hz, but they're not routed through the IO Expander; right?

Darkelf · « **Reply #710 on:** October 03, 2023, 08:37:21 AM »

Quote from: RDC on December 17, 2022, 10:28:25 AM

As far as the 'whistling' goes, look around the DC-DC converter that does the USB 5v to 3v, U1. Could be that Inductor is going bad, it has some other iffy part or it's getting loaded down wrong.

No AN+ to LSY = full Up movement.
No GND to LSY = full Down movement.
No AN+ to LSX = full Left movement.
No GND to LSX = full Right movement.

Make sure both POTs have the AN+ (1.8v) and ground they need. AN+ is on TP103 there. Also make sure none of your jumper wires are touching each other or any other solder joints in there.

thx admin work my joypad

RDC · « **Reply #711 on:** October 03, 2023, 11:33:55 AM »

@Darkelf - Welcome

@WNKLER - Schematic is on the first page.

It's all firmware controlled. The IO expander clock also isn't used at it's max frequency of 400kHz, it's around 356kHz or so.

You don't want to get into polling things too fast, depending on the kind of switch you're using, as you'll just wind up reading all of the switch bounces as well. At 124Hz, it's not missing any button pressing that a human is doing.

WNKLER · « **Reply #712 on:** October 30, 2023, 08:29:08 AM »

Quote from: RDC on October 03, 2023, 11:33:55 AM

? At 124Hz, it's not missing any button pressing that a human is doing. ?

The motivation for higher sample rates is about the 'freshness' of the input states rather than 'missed' inputs.
It?s not uncommon for modern competitive/esports titles to be run in excess of 240fps.
In this case, there can be multiple frames of frame-disadvantage for a player whose inputs are sampled at only 124hz vs a player sampled at 1000hz.

Darkelf · « **Reply #713 on:** November 08, 2023, 06:19:47 AM »

hi Admin i have xbox seri S joypad .. its not working Y button.. Where should I solder TP23? thanks for help

RDC · « **Reply #714 on:** November 08, 2023, 01:45:05 PM »

No idea what will fix it, I haven't seen the board. If the trace from Y to U4 is broken, then find the break and repair it. If the trace from Y to U4 is good, then U4 is probably bad.

Ortillson · « **Reply #715 on:** December 09, 2023, 10:12:00 AM »

What are D14 and and CR1 on BUTTON/POWER BOARD BOTTOM i have blown them away with hot air?

RDC · « **Reply #716 on:** December 09, 2023, 10:54:34 AM »

D14 is just a Diode for reverse voltage protection, could use just about any diode there. Then CR1 is a Zener, haven't tested the actual voltage, but it's probably a 5.1v to 6.8v max. The controller will work fine with them both missing, they are just protection for 'in case stuff' happens, but you'd have to have a pretty messed up USB cable, console, PC or be plugging it into things that you shouldn't be for them to do anything.

Ortillson · « **Reply #717 on:** December 11, 2023, 10:36:41 AM »

Hello my 1708 is not working over usb it worked when i soldered usb wires to test points but wire fell of with pads so these compomnents are mising CR1 D14 R1 C3 missing test points TP5,TP1,TP2 i so after that soldered usb wire to Battery terminals and data+ and data- to j5 connector pins it powers and works over bluetooth but is not showing through usb connection

RDC · « **Reply #718 on:** December 11, 2023, 12:07:09 PM »

It's not working becasue you have the USB 5v going to the AA rail, so it has no idea the USB 5v is there.

Replace R1 and it should work, unless you've wrecked that USB connector, in which case I'd say just get another top board from eBay or somewhere and use the old one for practice.

If you use a PnC battery pack, that TP5 spot on the bottom board will need to be repaired so the USB 5v can get to that connector.

Ortillson · « **Reply #719 on:** December 11, 2023, 12:12:17 PM »

Thanks.

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 223618 times)