XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim"

[blinkerss]

create an account for saying thank you so much for @RDC, because without this priceless thread, my 1708 would still be dead.

long story short: my 1708 suddenly dead, and the symptomp is U1 is get hot as hell, after reading this thread and buying cheap air solder, I'm removing the U1 chip and now my 1708 working like charm again (but always needing the battery pack when I'm playing in PC with cable connected)

thanks!!!  

[RDC]

Welcome.

U1 is needed for powering the controller over the USB, that's pretty much all that it does. It's an MP2161GJ if you want to replace it, and you can find it at DigiKey, Mouser and several other online parts places.

[blinkerss]

I think i'm just let this 1708 with less U1, making this 1708 have one less point of failure.

Thanks again RDC 

[Ixnay]

Hello, greetings to all. Trying to solder a wire I have lifted the POWER Board pad TP19 (LB). Is there any way to fix it?


I thank you in advance if someone could help me and I apologize if there is something wrong in my message, since English is not my language.


EDIT: I just realized that the absence of that pad does not influence the operation of LB. I have connected the cable directly to the output pin of the LB switch. Thank you.

[KeptWolf769]

Hi everyone, my old xbox one s controller had severe stick drift on both sticks so I attempted to try and replace them myself with the help of some youtube guides, I was able to replace the right stick and it works perfectly now, but I made a rookie mistake and didn't apply flux and ovoerheated my soldering iron so I damaged all three through holes for the Y potentiometer on the left stick. It was my first time soldering. Everything about the controller works but I desoldered the Y potentiometer since it sticks to 100% upwards when I apply a conductive adhesive and forcefully solder all 3 holes. Is there anything I can do about it? I came across this website while looking for a solution and i think I'm learning a lot just reading through posts. It is the same module shown in the pictures (1708). I know for a noob who knows nothing it will be a pain teaching but any help would be much appreciated.

[Qball]

Hi everyone, my old xbox one s controller had severe stick drift on both sticks so I attempted to try and replace them myself with the help of some youtube guides, I was able to replace the right stick and it works perfectly now, but I made a rookie mistake and didn't apply flux and ovoerheated my soldering iron so I damaged all three through holes for the Y potentiometer on the left stick. It was my first time soldering. Everything about the controller works but I desoldered the Y potentiometer since it sticks to 100% upwards when I apply a conductive adhesive and forcefully solder all 3 holes. Is there anything I can do about it? I came across this website while looking for a solution and i think I'm learning a lot just reading through posts. It is the same module shown in the pictures (1708). I know for a noob who knows nothing it will be a pain teaching but any help would be much appreciated.

At this point you're gonna have to solder either to TP's or to the SOC

[KeptWolf769]

Yeah, I want to know which Tp to solder each point to, since all 3 of the potentiometer?s through holes are damaged. And I want to know if all 3 can be linked together or each pin on the potential has a different tp to be connected to.

[KeptWolf769]

At this point you're gonna have to solder either to TP's or to the SOC

 Can I combine all 3 pins on the pot and bridge it to a single TP?

[eniac22]

Can tell me the specs of c20, c22 capacitors?

Thanks

[RDC]

You didn't specify which of the 3 boards. If it's the bottom or top boards, then the values are in the schematics, and if it's the bottom board, then it's not going to matter if they are there or not.

[RDC]

@ KeptWolf769 - No you can not solder all 3 pins of the POT together, you'll cause a short and the controller will not turn on.

[eniac22]

You didn't specify which of the 3 boards. If it's the bottom or top boards, then the values are in the schematics, and if it's the bottom board, then it's not going to matter if they are there or not.

Is for the bottom, Thanks i find it  !!

[Ixnay]

Hello again, I just shot another pad, in this case TP67 and now it does affect the operation of RT (it stays pressed). Is there any way to fix it?





Thanks in advance.

[RDC]

Stop using that kind of wire for starters. Get yourself some 30awg Kynar wire or Wrapping wire.

That TP67 is right in the middle of the trace run, so you've just opened it up is all. You'll need to solder a jumper wire from the bottom of C36/R39 to the Via that is just below the T in TP67.

[Ixnay]

Hello RDC, Thank you very much for helping me and for your advice, the truth is that I am a true noob with electronics although learning and experimenting new things entertains me a lot. This world has always caught my attention and for that there is a lot of interesting information in this forum. I'll get the cable you recommended before continuing to liquidate pads 😅. I already imagined that the solution started from C36/R39, I already used that point to read value with an adc module, which I didn't know where to bridge to.

Again thank you very much for your help.

[RDC]

Welcome.

[simfun]

Hello, very glad to find this forum with these kind of useful information.

[simfun]

I am thinking to connect the LSX pin to the corresponding pin (54) of the MCU, after spoiling the test pad TP64. Will that be enough, or should i do anything more at the other side of the PCB?

https://tinyurl.com/4369nct8

[Qball]

Can I combine all 3 pins on the pot and bridge it to a single TP?

No each pin is smth different. If my memory serves me, looking at the bottom 3 from left to right I wanna say 3.3v then output then ground. And then the side pins bottom to top would be 3.3v then output then ground

[Qball]

I am thinking to connect the LSX pin to the corresponding pin (54) of the MCU, after spoiling the test pad TP64. Will that be enough, or should i do anything more at the other side of the PCB?

https://tinyurl.com/4369nct8

Should work I've done it on a few controllers because I used too much heat on the TP oh well we live and we learn. I will say in my experience it was a bit tricky maybe mainly just because my tips tended to be a bit big for it and trying to hold the wire in place was tricky but it can be done and will work

[matrixmm]

Hi, this is my first time asking so sorry if it was asked before.
I have a 1914 controller with blown components.
Can anyone help me with the the following capacitors values?

C11
C23 (propably C23 is a 16uF, 0805)
C24
C26
C36
C54

Below are photos of the location of the elements we are asking about.

Thanks in advance

[VaNDAL_UK]

This guy is lifting and shifting your pictures and schematics. Normally that might be ok but he's rebranding them as his own.. Check the vid for proof.. You can clearly see the watermarks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWWz5RYyF_Q&t=643s

[Veksh]

Hi all! Can anyone help me with my problem? After the fall, the XB1s 1708 controller had a crack on the BUTTON / POWER BOARD and the J1 connector came off, restored the tracks.
The problem is that the controller does not turn on with the guide button from batteries, but turns on from the wire and continues to work without it on batteries. Also, after turning on the guide, the button is fully functional.

[RDC]

That issue is around here on the forums in a few places. On the power board, Q8, Q9 or something in that circuit is bad. Make sure D26 is good also.

[Veksh]

Thanks for the hint, when I get to the board I will check Q8/Q9 and the schematics.
Another interesting fact, the native MCU (broken tracks, I restored the tracks) from the kick controller does not turn on the controller at all, but it works fine in another controller

[oninomus]

hello RDC. i do really need help. i messed up the board pad. tried to fix stick drift on right stick analog. the red and blue dot is where i destroyed the board pad. tried to make jumper from red dot to Pin TP66. and then the analog working and i'm too excited but i messed up again.  accidently pulled the wire jumper and it snapped from Pin TP66. Try to solder again. but it did not stick. i'm kinda new to this repair hobby. hope you can help me. i need to to know where can i make jumper and what should i do.

https://imgur.com/hb33nK4

[RDC]

Since that's not a picture of your actual board, I have to guess that you've torn the TP66 pad off there now. You'll need to solder to the connection just above it instead, the fourth from the left there.

[WNKLER]

As far as I understand...

The IO Expander on first party xbox controllers is infamously sampled at just 124hz.
The controller will respond when polled up to 1000hz but it will send a stale input state until the IO Expander is sampled again.

What is setting the sample rate to 124hz?
What's the likelihood that this is set in firmware and not a hardware limitation?

Also, I believe the analog sticks are also sampled at 124hz, but they're not routed through the IO Expander; right?

[Darkelf]

As far as the 'whistling' goes, look around the DC-DC converter that does the USB 5v to 3v, U1. Could be that Inductor is going bad, it has some other iffy part or it's getting loaded down wrong.

No AN+ to LSY = full Up movement.
No GND to LSY = full Down movement.
No AN+ to LSX = full Left movement.
No GND to LSX = full Right movement.

Make sure both POTs have the AN+ (1.8v) and ground they need. AN+ is on TP103 there. Also make sure none of your jumper wires are touching each other or any other solder joints in there.

thx admin  work my joypad

[RDC]

@Darkelf - Welcome

@WNKLER  - Schematic is on the first page.

It's all firmware controlled. The IO expander clock also isn't used at it's max frequency of 400kHz, it's around 356kHz or so.

You don't want to get into polling things too fast, depending on the kind of switch you're using, as you'll just wind up reading all of the switch bounces as well. At 124Hz, it's not missing any button pressing that a human is doing.