XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim"

[Pykess]

In case anyone stumbles on this again in the future like I did. I was lucky enough to meet someone in a discord server who knew where to get this connector: https://detail.1688.com/offer/626301971841.html?spm=a360q.7751292.0.0.8ce428e6ccI4oa
Basically, you can only get them from Chinese-only wholesalers. Hence, there are no English language listings which is why no one could find anything.

[magiver_fox31]

That does not help. What diagram or instructions are you using? Pictures of your install might help also.

Hello, RDC,

I am pretty new to the electronic world, can you please help me locate the left stick 10K resistors on the board?

thanks

[RDC]

I have no idea what you are asking for. There are no 10k Resistors for the sticks. The POTs on the sticks are 10k in value.

[atarisoul]

Hello Friends

My 1708 controller works fine plugged in via USB, but when on battery pressing the xbox home button nothing happens, If I plug it in and to turn it on and then unplug it he batteries keep it on.

I know its the MCU board (the one with the sticks on) because I've swapped it out with a working one and it works perfectly.

Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks 

[RDC]

The Guide button line on the bottom board is pretty much a straight shot from the connector to the MCU. It would have to either be a broken trace, bad solder joint at pin 11 of the SoC board, bad trace on the SoC board, bad solder connection at the MCU chip or the MCU itself is bad. J5p2 to SoC board p11 to MCU K1

[atarisoul]

The Guide button line on the bottom board is pretty much a straight shot from the connector to the MCU. It would have to either be a broken trace, bad solder joint at pin 11 of the SoC board, bad trace on the SoC board, bad solder connection at the MCU chip or the MCU itself is bad. J5p2 to SoC board p11 to MCU K1

Thanks @RDC as always for your help.

After studying your schematics I finally worked out where K1 was !

I did a continuity test between J5p2 and SOC p11 and got a connection.

The MCU (ARM chip)is under the metal shield to test K1 ?

Thanks once again   

 

[RDC]

MCU is a BGA chip, you might just barely be able to get at K1 with a really fine needle for a test, but poking the thing could make it connect and then open back up after removing the test probe which will give you a false measurement.

[Dim4eG_By]

Hey admin! Sorry if there are some mistakes.

I bought a broken gamepad. As I found out, someone already tries to repair it.
Could you tell me please, what capacitors I should buy for these places?

https://ibb.co/VSMyKC0

[RDC]

C54, the large one, is 10uF. The rest not 100% sure, but are most likely 100nF or so. It should work with all of those missing though, as they are just decoupling. If those were knocked off or even accidentally desoldered with hot air, then it's hard to tell what else was done to her.

[Dim4eG_By]

It did not turn on without one capacitor (to the right of the large C54). One side was soldered off. I just pressed it and the gamepad was able to turn on.
And I decided to return all the capacitors.

[RDC]

C55 is to the right of C54 and is just a decoupling cap on the 3.3v rail, wouldn't matter if it was there or not. Pressing on it probably made some other connection somewhere.

[Dim4eG_By]

Got it. Thank you!

[Dim4eG_By]

I found out, that gamepad doesn't turn on with plugged antenna Without antenna cable, it's working fine without a USB cable.

[RDC]

Could be the RF transformers are shot, middle of the board, RFF2 and T2, or the RF bit in the MCU is bad.

[Dim4eG_By]

And if I don't fix anything, will the gamepad work fine?

[RDC]

Depends on your definition of fine. Whatever is working will work until it doesn't work anymore.

[abadgamer]

hi RDC
i have a strange problem at least for me
i have 3 controller with bad pads on left stick and exact same problem
i followed your jumper that u mentioned on this topic. but when i connect all 3 pads on both x and y, when i connect my controllers to pc for test, when i push first button, no matter what button i pushed, my left analog will stick to top left or top right and not coming back to center

btw to of my controllers, when i connect them to usb supply, some kinda noise like whistles comes from my board. idk where that comes or that is due to my left analog stick problem or not

i checked all of my jumpers with multimeter and they are fine
thanks in advance

all of my boards are 1708

[RDC]

Pictures

[abadgamer]

here

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-dM3HLQ0rts_hJYaZV1kMZUlYySvgNaC/view

[RDC]

As far as the 'whistling' goes, look around the DC-DC converter that does the USB 5v to 3v, U1. Could be that Inductor is going bad, it has some other iffy part or it's getting loaded down wrong.

No AN+ to LSY = full Up movement.
No GND to LSY = full Down movement.
No AN+ to LSX = full Left movement.
No GND to LSX = full Right movement.

Make sure both POTs have the AN+ (1.8v) and ground they need. AN+ is on TP103 there. Also make sure none of your jumper wires are touching each other or any other solder joints in there.

[abadgamer]

thanks man. you are one of the best forum members ive ever seen
i try your suggestions and let u know the result

btw i was checking other topics right now ( i m at home and controllers are in my shop)

could c22 cause this problem too? and how to check that? diode mode and no beep on both side? do we have that capacitor on 360 fat controller too?

[RDC]

Have to be more specific with part numbers, because M$ didn't keep them in check between the boards.

C22 on the bottom board could case only LSY to go full up.

C22 on the top board is a decoupling cap on the 3.3v rail.

[abadgamer]

i dont know how to say thanks to u
i saved all of my controllers with your suggestions

after re soldering and making jumpers, even that noise comes off

thank u man. i hope you have a great and happy life

[abadgamer]

sorry to bother u again
one of my controllers are working fine with your advices on pc
but when i connect it to console with bluetooth, again my left stick sticks to down
after that, when i connect it again on pc, its normal.
what could be wrong?

[RDC]

Full down? or just slightly down? aka drifting down.

[abadgamer]

Full down
I changed the analog too, but no difference.

It's interesting that pc works perfectly, but with Bluetooth, it's stuck.

Btw i have 1.53v
But you said 1.8v

That could be a problem?

[RDC]

See if that 1.8v changes with USB connected versus wireless and battery powered. It shouldn't, and if it is putting out 1.5v all the time, then that's going to do something, but I have no idea what. Only the sticks and then the MCU uses that voltage as a reference, but there is also 1 pin on the MCU that measures that voltage thru a divider, so that 1.5v could be making it act that way, though I have no idea why it would make just 1 axis act funky over wireless and be fine on the PC.

No way I can replicate that here, so best thing to do is start comparing that one to one of your good controllers and see what doesn't measure the same between them.

[abadgamer]

thanks again man
i compare it with my other controller to see what is wrong

you are the best

[atomsk]

hello,

I kinda messed up the solder pads when desoldering the analogue stick on one side. As a result the solder won't become attached to anythig for some of the pins of the new analogue stick. I want to try and restore the connection with very thin wiring but i'm not sure what to connect exactly. For some of the pads its obvious how they connect to the rest of the board but for others i can't understand what to restore. Can someone draw the connections ?

[RDC]

Every single one that you have circled there are all grounds.