Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 220339 times)

leonemax81 · « **Reply #30 on:** May 20, 2017, 03:57:31 AM »

Can you tell me a fast running on this new controller?

RDC · « **Reply #31 on:** May 20, 2017, 06:00:00 AM »

I have no idea what you are asking for there.

leonemax81 · « **Reply #32 on:** May 20, 2017, 10:27:39 AM »

Does a rapid fire exist on this new controller model?

RDC · « **Reply #33 on:** May 20, 2017, 11:09:39 AM »

I have no idea, cRapid Fire is not really my thing. I do, however, like figuring out problems, and I'm trying to get in contact with SethMods to try and figure out what is going on with all of this and see if it is the controller or the code causing it.

What game or games are you testing with there? as I would not rule it out either.

leonemax81 · « **Reply #34 on:** May 21, 2017, 01:50:29 AM »

I'm using the game call of duty black ops.

leonemax81 · « **Reply #35 on:** May 23, 2017, 09:11:25 AM »

You have some news?

stee01 · « **Reply #36 on:** August 24, 2017, 01:23:12 PM »

Hey RDC,

Any chance you know what the values are of the capacitors on these boards?

I've got a duff controller here which isn't powering on off either batteries or usb. Noticed after having it plugged in that the dpad was starting to get toasty.

Looking at other stuff online indicates that on the older models it's the capacitor at c30 pulling the 5v to ground that is playing up. Most people seem to be able to just remove it without issue but of course it's there for a reason

Just dipping my toe back in to tinkering with broken electronics

RDC · « **Reply #37 on:** August 24, 2017, 04:44:50 PM »

Most of the caps are just decoupling, for filtering the DC, and the exact value isn't going to be really critical.

C30 on the 1708 version Power/Button board is a 16uF, 0805 that's probably rated at 10v or more.

stee01 · « **Reply #38 on:** August 24, 2017, 04:55:27 PM »

Brilliant, cheers mate know what I'm ordering now

maik · « **Reply #39 on:** October 20, 2017, 05:53:23 AM »

hello to all, sorry for the question but if i want duplicate all 4 top button can i use the same GND for each one:

A) TP21-TP22 (MCU)

B) TP41 (MCU)-TP22 (MCU)

X) TP22-TP22 (MCU)

Y) TP23-TP22 (MCU).

RDC · « **Reply #40 on:** October 20, 2017, 06:54:06 AM »

wittness · « **Reply #41 on:** November 07, 2017, 08:42:04 AM »

In trying to add scuf type buttons I have managed to lift the pad of the B button TP41. Does anybody know if this is repairable?

I would be eternally grateful!

RDC · « **Reply #42 on:** November 07, 2017, 01:54:25 PM »

Prep the Via that is just below/right of TP41, solder a short jumper wire to it and then follow that trace up and solder the other end of the wire to the bottom side of R29.

bluefox · « **Reply #43 on:** November 20, 2017, 12:10:21 PM »

Hi guys. I came in possession of 4x new controllers 1708. All have exactly the same issue: on USB cable they work perfect, but no power on battery. Nobody opened before so it seems like a common problem on these. I attempted repair and checked the (+) power line and could not find any break up to Q9. There is 3v power on the power button. I've replaced U1, U2, U3 but problem still not solved. I've spend hours searching for missing or blown components on the board and could not find any visible damage. Please help me solve this? It's honestly killing me and as usual the solution is just around the corner..... thank you.

The power board is the issue.

RDC · « **Reply #44 on:** November 20, 2017, 02:28:04 PM »

No power with the PnC battery pack? New AA batteries? or both are a no go?

Have you confirmed the Power board is the issue by replacing it with one from a know working 1708 controller?

My 1708 board is stripped clean, or I'd start poking around in there looking for that problem. Right now all I can do is schematic it out and give you some ideas on where to look.

I'll have to trace out the 1708 and see if they did anything different, but on the 1537 Q9 gets the power good signal from the MCU board thru D26. If D26 was open you'd have issues, but not sure as of yet if it would effect the USB power.

Q7 is the first place I'd start though, provided a know working board powers up with batteries fine so the issue is for sure known to be on the Power board.

bluefox · « **Reply #45 on:** November 21, 2017, 03:17:19 AM »

Hi RDC. Thank's for a quick reply.
I use just regular batteries for testing, the Duracell ones that came with controllers. I confirm that batteries are not the problem.

Yes, I confirm that the issue is the power board, all MCU boards are perfect with a working powerboard.

D26 replaced but still not working.

I was reading the forum for solutions and fount that the pin 4 on J1 should have 3V. What happens is: when I push the power button 3V appears on pin 4 for a few seconds and the soooowly drops down.

I lost a lot of time and hope trying to repair this and I will try any ideas that would come to your mind.
Thank you

RDC · « **Reply #46 on:** November 21, 2017, 08:07:02 AM »

What have you replaced U1, U2 and U3 with?

Pin 4 of J1 should have 3.3v on it, as it's the output of U3 and that one powers just about everything. That's on a working controller of course.

U2 just provides the 3.5v for the Rumble motors, and U1 is only in there to knock down the USB 5v to around 3v.

Make sure L4 is on the board, and if it is, make sure that it's not cracked, has one side not soldered or measures open.

Now that I'm thinking on it, the issue could be that U4 has crapped the bed also and is loading down or almost shorting the 3.3v rail. Take one of those boards and just remove U3 and see if it will power up normally then.

maik · « **Reply #47 on:** December 13, 2017, 08:36:16 AM »

Quote from: RDC on October 20, 2017, 06:54:06 AM

Yes

Thanks you save many pad from garbage

RDC · « **Reply #48 on:** December 13, 2017, 09:55:17 AM »

Welcome.

flo_od · « **Reply #49 on:** March 14, 2018, 07:43:47 PM »

Does anyone know the exact MCU type? I know it was an MKL26 with 256KB before, but is it still?
I guess they have at least increased the size - since they added BT?

flo_od · « **Reply #50 on:** March 21, 2018, 09:06:35 AM »

For everyone that follows: No it isn't! It's an Mediatek ARM MCU now. It is called "Microsoft ARM X905893-002" but unfortunately there is no Datasheet available.

@RDC: Do you know what the (missing) J1 connector on the MCU board is good for?

RDC · « **Reply #51 on:** March 21, 2018, 03:56:42 PM »

It could still be one of the ARM chips that are currently out, or it could be they had it made for them. You could pull one, count the pins and layout, then reverse the entire board to see what pins are connected to what, then go thru every ARM chip that is close, but that's a real pile of work and only a 50/50 shot at the very best to finding it, been there done that before.

I haven't torn down the 1708 to trace where that J1 goes. It could be the JTAG header or just some debug port.

I tossed the Saleae Logic Analyzer on it and there's just a spit of what could be some data after power up and then nothing else. I see no CLK signal, so the JTAG header seems unlikely, but it could be the thing is setup to need some input on J1 or even some button combination to switch it on. You'd have to trace the entire thing out to see where each of those lines go to even start guessing there at what it's purpose might even be.

J1

1 - GND
2 - GND
3 - Low
4 - Hi
5 - Data?
6 - Hi
7 - Hi
8 - 3.3v

FlexBitt · « **Reply #52 on:** April 04, 2018, 09:01:31 AM »

Hi,
i have a problem with lot of controllers.
First it dosen't power up from USB or battery and the main board at the U1 heats so up it melts the plastic befor it.

What can be the solution for this? I hope not that i have to replace the whole panel...

RDC · « **Reply #53 on:** April 04, 2018, 09:19:42 AM »

U1 is bad for starters, it's an MP2161. The traces and board may be damaged to the point that replacing it isn't wroth it. You'll have to carefully remove U1 there and see the extent of the damage first.

FlexBitt · « **Reply #54 on:** April 04, 2018, 09:38:14 AM »

Quote from: RDC on April 04, 2018, 09:19:42 AM

U1 is bad for starters, it's an MP2161. The traces and board may be damaged to the point that replacing it isn't wroth it. You'll have to carefully remove U1 there and see the extent of the damage first.

Thank you.
Where can i find a repacement? I didn't find on aliexpress.

RDC · « **Reply #55 on:** April 04, 2018, 09:43:17 AM »

Then you didn't type it correctly, because they are on there, as well as most other places like Mouser and DigiKey.

FlexBitt · « **Reply #56 on:** April 05, 2018, 01:40:07 AM »

Quote from: RDC on April 04, 2018, 09:43:17 AM

Then you didn't type it correctly, because they are on there, as well as most other places like Mouser and DigiKey.

I have a lot of 1ST generation front USB panels. Can i cange the U1 from them to the new S front panels? Is it the same value?

Thanks for help!

RDC · « **Reply #57 on:** April 05, 2018, 03:36:26 AM »

They are the same component.

irvgotti452 · « **Reply #58 on:** April 05, 2018, 05:25:34 PM »

Funny thing, coincidentally I repaired one of those today.
It was bad. Lifted traces, ripped up pads.
This is how it turned out before I hit it with an overcoat pen.

Works great now. Batteries and USB.

FlexBitt · « **Reply #59 on:** April 06, 2018, 02:26:05 AM »

Quote from: irvgotti452 on April 05, 2018, 05:25:34 PM

Funny thing, coincidentally I repaired one of those today.
It was bad. Lifted traces, ripped up pads.
This is how it turned out before I hit it with an overcoat pen.

Works great now. Batteries and USB.

Wao, looks a pain in the ass. But if it works then its a perfect solution. Big respect.

News:

Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 220339 times)