Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 219985 times)

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #180 on:** January 04, 2020, 05:48:56 PM »

It took me 10 attempts but it is finally drift-free. I had to make it a super small tilt, otherwise, it would start drifting the other way.

Thanks a lot for all of the help, you are incredible!

RDC · « **Reply #181 on:** January 04, 2020, 05:51:04 PM »

Welcome.

thyaguster · « **Reply #182 on:** January 13, 2020, 01:20:35 PM »

Hi. I have a 1708 controller that was exhibiting this behavior, even with a new analog stick:

Checked voltage on TP64 and it was acting up. So I just made a jumper between LSX wiper leg and TP64.
It seems fixed now, but I wanted to know if this is the proper fix or if there's more correct one.

RDC · « **Reply #183 on:** January 13, 2020, 01:25:30 PM »

If the jumper wire fixed it then there is probably something iffy with the trace or a Via on the board, or the LSX solder joint just wasn't good. As long as it works what you did there is fine and there's no point in digging into it anymore unless you're just dying to know what caused the issue.

thyaguster · « **Reply #184 on:** January 14, 2020, 02:44:46 PM »

I think it was the trace itself somewhere, since it tested on the through-hole near the wiper. But doesn't really matter, it's working

Thank you for your help, both for answering and for creating this thread.

RDC · « **Reply #185 on:** January 14, 2020, 02:46:14 PM »

Welcome.

Gigacube · « **Reply #186 on:** January 15, 2020, 03:11:22 AM »

Hi, i have this little problem with 2 controllers, both from different client (ive been fixing pcb for a while, but there's always something new to learn). When i try to turn it on, the led on the board blinks exactly 5 times, and then it turn off, no matter if i use usb cable or batteries, voltages seems to be rigth, U1 U2 & U3 work perfect,
Have you ever seen this problem?

if not, at least i have 2 pcb i can use to replace parts 😂

RDC · « **Reply #187 on:** January 15, 2020, 07:31:30 PM »

If you have a functional 1708 there, do some swapping and see which board has the issue first.

privato89 · « **Reply #188 on:** February 12, 2020, 07:47:04 PM »

Houston, we have a problem!

Hi guys, the story began when I beat my controller down. I opened correctly the controller to see what was the problem and in the meanwhile I was checking to try some cables, I unplugged wrongly the cable that goes from the (BUTTON/POWER BOARD BOTTOM) to the (MCU BOARD BOTTOM). I think I broke the welding tracks. I'm very good with a soldering iron.
How can I solve the problem now?

Picture here!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/92rntu9fojtip52/IMG_20200213_040007.jpg?dl=0

RDC · « **Reply #189 on:** February 12, 2020, 10:25:11 PM »

That's the RF antenna connector. I'd imagine the rest of it is stuck in the mating connector on the cable now, or if it went flying it's probably gone for good.

The trace still looks intact, just the pad has broken loose from the board for the center connector.

I'd replace the connector, as it will hold the center pad/track back in place then, while the ground connections for it will keep it on the board. You'll need a hot air setup to do that correctly, though could probably pull it off with an iron and a pretty fine tip if no hot air station is available.

The connector is a U.FL (UMCC) Series, Male.

saulveloz · « **Reply #190 on:** March 07, 2020, 03:30:32 PM »

I Was trying to fix U1 on this board but i lifted the pad from Pin 1, i checked with other parts board with a multimeter, and i couldn't find where it needs to go

RDC · « **Reply #191 on:** March 07, 2020, 06:24:16 PM »

It goes nowhere. It's just a Power Good signal that the controller doesn't use.

uwonbidvd · « **Reply #192 on:** March 22, 2020, 12:54:14 PM »

Hello,

I have previously completed this successfully on an older 1708 controller which is now broken after an xbox controller firmware update (it's out of warranty), but I've just tried this on a new 1708 and B is not working on TP41, from either the tactile switch or the B button. I had problems getting the solder to stay put on the PCB and the PCB is a little burned from my 'persistence'. Is it likely I've completely bricked this pad or can it be salvaged by scratching back to the copper contact point? I'm worried I've somehow damaged something beyond repair.

Ground zero;

Any tips or feedback after you've stopped laughing would be fab. I'm fully expecting to write this off as an expensive mistake.

Cheers

DVD

RDC · « **Reply #193 on:** March 22, 2020, 01:24:35 PM »

No one laughing, everyone makes mistakes, it's the only way to learn how to not do something, and anyone that is laughing because they don't make any mistakes, just made one.

TP41 is in the trace there, so if it's damaged then it's possible neither button would work, but it shouldn't be ruined by a long shot.

First thing you need to do is remove the solder, wire and hot glue and clean the board with a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol so we can see what we have to work with. I'd suspect the trace is damaged right under the TP41 spot, as that would disconnect either button from the B button line, so neither would work. If that's the case, then you can prep and solder to the Via just below the TP41 spot, then jumper wire it to the bottom of R29 and the controller's B button should work again.

Tip for you: Tin your wire ends before soldering them to any trace/pad spots. That is strip the end back some, twist the strands together and then solder it up so there is solder on the wire already. The insulation on that kind of wire will melt a little and shrink back, then you can trim the tinned end to a shorter length and it will take you far less time to get it soldered to the spot in question, versus having to heat the wire, trace/pad and solder all up at the same time to get things to 'stick' together.

uwonbidvd · « **Reply #194 on:** March 22, 2020, 02:44:25 PM »

Wow RDC, thank you for that brilliant reply. Really useful, I will get onto that. Good to know I might get another shot

I attempted to tin the wire but it didn't have enough solder on it, in hindsight. If I tin it correctly, do I even need to apply more solder to the join? That was a struggle and I did have those helping hand things. The only soldering I've ever done is to fix small electronics, and mostly it's been xbox related like a thumb stick module. I should probably get some more practice in on some spare parts I have laying around too...

Thanks again, I'll report back

RDC · « **Reply #195 on:** March 22, 2020, 02:57:33 PM »

Welcome.

Depends on how much solder is left on the wire from the tinning, so kind of depends there. If you tin the wire, then tin the joint, most times you wont need any more solder after that.

uwonbidvd · « **Reply #196 on:** March 22, 2020, 03:29:14 PM »

Roger that, thank you

Here are some updated pics. This rubbing alcohol is effective stuff!

Best three I could crop

Cheers
DVD

RDC · « **Reply #197 on:** March 22, 2020, 03:40:26 PM »

Yeah TP41 is a goner. Just prep and solder to the Via right under it. An X-acto blade or fiberglass pen if you have one is all you really need to remove the green mask and expose the copper. When you start to see copper slow down because the shiny copper isn't far under that and that's what you want. You don't want to go any farther than the shiny copper or you'll end up on the bare PCB then. Even if you tank the Via there, you can go to the other side of the board and try there, or even right to the castellated connection pad 15 of the MCU board, where the smaller MCU board is soldered to the main board, it's in the corner there kind of under the antenna.

uwonbidvd · « **Reply #198 on:** March 22, 2020, 03:53:41 PM »

Yeah, it looked pretty nuked. Do I still need to do;

"then you can prep and solder to the Via just below the TP41 spot, then jumper wire it to the bottom of R29 and the controller's B button should work again." ?

Or can I just scratch the green bit in the Via down to the copper and attach my grey wire for the B switch to that (option A) ala "Just prep and solder to the Via right under it"? I Googled 'Via' quickly and it says it connects to other layers of the PCB or the other side, so in this case does it bypass using TP41 for connectivity or is jumping a wire from that to R29 the 'bypass', so to speak (option B)?

The grey wire is my B wire to the tac switch.... hopefully it's clear there is a A or B option;

Just getting my head around it

RDC · « **Reply #199 on:** March 22, 2020, 04:00:29 PM »

Yes the Via is the little 'donut' there that connects traces from one side to the other, it's like little copper tube in the board with a copper washer on each end, would kind of look like an empty spool if you could see it all on it's own.

The B option will restore the controller's B button so it will work again. Option A would be for your duplicate B Tact button and then only it would work. You could also do both if you wanted.

uwonbidvd · « **Reply #200 on:** March 22, 2020, 04:04:04 PM »

Thanks for the great help RDC, I have my tasks laid out ahead of me. Greatly appreciate the guidance, I can see you're an asset to this thread reading through a few of the pages.

stay safe, DVD

uwonbidvd · « **Reply #201 on:** March 24, 2020, 11:39:20 AM »

I went with option A not wanting to push my luck, and after switching to a new solder tip I managed to get the damned thing working again. Massive thanks to you RDC, controller is no longer a write off

DVD

RDC · « **Reply #202 on:** March 24, 2020, 11:41:25 AM »

Welcome. You can use the top of R29, or pad 15 for your duplicate B button if you still want that option.

uwonbidvd · « **Reply #203 on:** March 25, 2020, 05:47:22 AM »

Quote from: RDC on March 24, 2020, 11:41:25 AM

Welcome. You can use the top of R29, or pad 15 for your duplicate B button if you still want that option.

Just to confirm, this would need me to jump a new wire from the same solder spot I've just used on the via below TP41, to either of the above locations? So the top of R29, not the bottom bit?

Thanks again, just being clear before I put my limited skill set to work again

RDC · « **Reply #204 on:** March 25, 2020, 12:48:45 PM »

No more jumper wire. Go from the top of R29 to your new Tact B button, or use pad 15 on the MCU board and go to the new Tact B button. You can use either of those in place of the original TP41 to make your duplicate B button.

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #205 on:** March 31, 2020, 05:15:26 PM »

I have a 1708 controller that has a constantly activated right DPAD button. I’ve replaced the DPAD sticker but no luck. Any ideas on how this can be fixed?

RDC · « **Reply #206 on:** March 31, 2020, 07:43:26 PM »

Take a multimeter and measure the Resistance from TP14 to Ground, then compare that measurement to TP15, 16 or 17 to Ground.

If TP14 measures 0hms, then there could be a short on the DR line from the button to U4 somewhere, or U4 could be bad.

If TP14 and any of the others measure the same, I'd suspect that U4 is bad.

rorschach_ · « **Reply #207 on:** April 17, 2020, 09:06:56 AM »

Hi guys,
İ have 1708 board and i tried change my Left stick. I messed up.
Here is the photo,
https://ibb.co/zsB9k5z

Where i solder LSY pin ? TP63 ?

RDC · « **Reply #208 on:** April 17, 2020, 01:30:44 PM »

Correct, TP63.

coatzavideojuego · « **Reply #209 on:** April 18, 2020, 11:50:23 PM »

can you help me i need replace d23 is a diode Schottky
i use multimeter and shows 222 v
the diode have numbers 20 or 02 but i cant find the correct replace

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 219985 times)