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Pretty good idear there. Here's probably one of the most complex ways of doing it. This project is just a protoype and has another intended purpose, but it can also match up the first new stick you toss in there to the controller, provided it's not all jacked up to begin with.
Video creator here. Maybe we can actually have a conversation now? Seems like you don't like to reply much on YouTube, which is understandable.Make fun of it if you like, but it works! I've done this on over a hundred controllers and I can get any controller's joystick to be within 1% (0.01) with this method, yes... 1%. It can be that accurate. I agree, it will take more time to do that by finding the right joystick/pots, but the end result will be much better. If I only wanted to get say within 8%, I can get a controller done from start to finish in less than 30 minutes. Most importantly though this method is reliable and permanent! (until wear and tear sets in)The video was made in mind of the novice. The average joe that only has a soldering iron. Not everyone has an air gun or a desoldering iron. I do agree, however, that one part is very wasteful. After some more tinkering the past couple of days I've found a way to find the joysticks positioning on html5gamepad.com without needing to solder on the joystick. I remember trying this before without success (wish I had tried harder), but with a little bit of technique I can now do it. No need for people that only have a soldering iron to destroy any new joysticks (something I never personally do anyway as I use a Hakko). That is definitely unnecessary, and I will be addressing it in the new video I make. Also, thanks to someone else, I now know the method that by removing the 3 nubs on the pot itself, the pot can be twisted slightly to change the resistance readings. Very clever. Unfortunately I've found this will not work every time with any single joystick on any single board (maybe 50-70%?) as it is limited in how much it can be tweaked. But combined with finding a joystick with close enough centering and without needing to solder it on nor make any readings or calculations, I think we have a winner! As for your suggestion though, I'm sorry but I will not twist the single nub that protrudes from the joystick into the pot. I can't see how that can be a permanent solution at all, despite what you claim. I've tried this before, it didn't work. Well, not permanently anyway. Maybe you have a way of heating it up or something so it can keep it's new form without moving back? Would like to see it action. Please link to the video if you can. I couldn't find it.