Hello, problem LS on a 1537

[iMeers]

Hello acidmods community!

First of all, I want to congratulate you for the great job you do here, seriously, this website is amazing!

I am new to repair, I have intermediate welding knowledge, I started a small repair business, but I limit myself to just changing sticks and simple things.

I would like to know how to start tracking faults in controls, I already have (basic) knowledge of how to use a DMM, although I am still not quite sure how to recognize that a resistance is damaged or short, as I said I know the basics.

I got an xbox one controller with pcb 1537, when replacing the left sitck it always remains in the image position, no matter how many try the result is the same.





I am thinking that the problem is direct on the pcb, but as I repeat, I am new and I have no idea how to start to solve this problem (if it has a solution), or use it for parts.

I would greatly appreciate your help and again, thanks for the work you do here.

Thank you.

[RDC]

It always remains in that position no matter where you move the stick?

OR

It just returns to that position for center?

In the case of the latter, it's stick drift, get used to it if you're going to replace those things on the controllers. They are calibrated after they are made, and swapping them will most times cause them to be offset like that. There are more than a few ways to correct it.  https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44643.0.html

If it's stuck in that position, clean the board up good and measure the voltage on the center pin of each POT and see what it is while moving the stick around.

[iMeers]

It just returns to that position for center?

In the case of the latter, it's stick drift, get used to it if you're going to replace those things on the controllers. They are calibrated after they are made, and swapping them will most times cause them to be offset like that. There are more than a few ways to correct it.  https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44643.0.html

If it's stuck in that position, clean the board up good and measure the voltage on the center pin of each POT and see what it is while moving the stick around.

The stick moves everywhere correctly, but once it stops moving, it returns to the center in that area.

I have tried several sticks, even original ones that I have replaced and absolutely all have the same center, which makes it suspect that they are not the sticks.

Silly question, while the controller is on, is there no problem using the DMM to make measurements?

That is what I want to learn to measure, since I don't know how to do it well.

Thanks for answering

[RDC]

There's no need to measure the voltage on it if it moves, you just have one that has drift now is all.

But yes, the controller has to be on to measure voltages, can't really do that any other way, and some care needs to be taken as slipping with the test leads in there can send voltage to places it's not supposed to be. There's nothing in there that's going to give you a buzz, but care still needs to be taken when measuring any device under power. Also slipping test leads are a great way to scratch the board and sever small traces or send tiny SMT parts flying off into the great unknown. The flip side of that is when doing Resistance or some component measurements, then you want no power in there at all, and ideally you want the component off the board as most times while it's in circuit it's going to measure weird anyway, just depends on the thing you're checking.

It's both technically and not technically the sticks that have the issue.

Each controller is calibrated after it's made with the sticks that are in it. No two of those things are exactly the same because of the mechanical and electrical tolerances of the stick. So they calibrate the controller to the ones that are in it after it's made, and then changing the stick out will most times result in the thing being a little bit 'off' from how it originally was. Yes you can replace tons of them and never see the issue, but as soon as you run across a controller that was calibrated with a so-so stick in it to start with, then no 'normal' stick will ever center back up in the thing without being messed with.

You could go thru 100 sticks before you ran across one that was 'off' in the same way that the original one it was calibrated with so it would match up close enough. You'll need to pick whatever method you prefer to correct the stick drift on that thing to get it closer to the center values now.

[iMeers]

Each controller is calibrated after it's made with the sticks that are in it. No two of those things are exactly the same because of the mechanical and electrical tolerances of the stick. So they calibrate the controller to the ones that are in it after it's made, and then changing the stick out will most times result in the thing being a little bit 'off' from how it originally was. Yes you can replace tons of them and never see the issue, but as soon as you run across a controller that was calibrated with a so-so stick in it to start with, then no 'normal' stick will ever center back up in the thing without being messed with.

You could go thru 100 sticks before you ran across one that was 'off' in the same way that the original one it was calibrated with so it would match up close enough. You'll need to pick whatever method you prefer to correct the stick drift on that thing to get it closer to the center values now.

So, you're telling me that once the new stick is mounted, it needs to be calibrated? I did not know it!

I have already changed enough sticks and I had not touched such a case.

I checked the link that you provided me two post back but I found nothing, sorry if I'm very new.

Forgive the question, but what are the ways to calibrate a new sitck.

Thanks again.

[RDC]

You can not recalibrate the controller, all you can do is tweak the stick to get it closer to center now.

I prefer to remove the POTs from the metal frame, cut the 3 small posts in the corners of the POTs, do not cut the clips just the 3 small posts, then clip them back on the stick. That will give them a little bit of play so you can tilt them whichever way they need to go to line back up before resoldering them in place.

[iMeers]

Hello, sorry for the late reply.

I have tried what you tell me but I did not achieve the desired result, will there be a video or another way of trying to adjust the stick to the center as much as possible?

Or I think maybe I am not doing it well, I have cut the 3 small posts but still I cannot focus the sitck.

[RDC]

You need to adjust the POT before soldering it back in place or it's not going to be able to move any. Before soldering the 3 leads of the POT in place, tilt it in the direction that it is drifting.