Author Topic: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues  (Read 3123 times)

Offline Greendaycolt

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1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« on: July 30, 2020, 03:59:39 PM »
Hi,

I have two 1537 Xbox One controllers that each have a weird power-on issue. I've read through some of the threads here but have not been able to find scenarios like these. Any advice is appreciated.

Controller 1 works fine via USB, but on battery power, it will only turn on (and will automatically turn on by itself without pressing guide button) immediately when batteries are inserted. Controller works fine, syncs, plays, etc. when it is on, but then when it is turned off after playing or idling, it will not turn back on by pressing the guide button. I have to remove the batteries and reinsert them - then the controller turns on by itself again and works fine, but this is odd..

Controller 2 does not work via USB. When using batteries, it turns on when I press the guide button but will immediately power off if I let go of the guide button. If I hold the guide button down, it will stay on and attempt to connect to console, but I have been unable to get it to sync in this strange state.

Thanks in advance for help/advice.

Offline RDC

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2020, 11:22:06 PM »
Controller 1 - I'd suspect Q8 on the Top board is shorted or acting weird.

Controller 2  - Check the Diode at D26 on the Top board, if it's good after that I'd suspect Q9 and then go down the line from there.
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

Offline jvcr

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2020, 05:34:55 AM »
Hello))
I have a similar problem. When you try to turn on from batteries or from a USB cable, when you press the Home button, the LED may light up, sometimes dim or bright. When the button is released, the LED goes out. When the button is pressed, no connection occurs. U1, U2, U3 are normal, power is also supplied to the MCU. I tried to replace the power board from the second revision, the effect is the same. D26 is normal, Q9 also seems not broken, there is voltage on one of the terminals.
I connected it to the power supply, at the moment I pressed the Home button, the current consumption was ~ 0 A. I would be grateful for any help.

Offline jvcr

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2020, 01:54:11 AM »
Controller 1 - I'd suspect Q8 on the Top board is shorted or acting weird.

Controller 2  - Check the Diode at D26 on the Top board, if it's good after that I'd suspect Q9 and then go down the line from there.

will you help me?  :beg:

Offline RDC

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2020, 06:06:50 AM »
When it's connected via USB to a PC it should turn itself on.

If you have tried a known working top board, then there could be some short on the bottom board or a problem with the MCU.
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

Offline jvcr

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #5 on: August 14, 2020, 06:22:44 AM »
When it's connected via USB to a PC it should turn itself on.

If you have tried a known working top board, then there could be some short on the bottom board or a problem with the MCU.

When you connect a computer to USB, it does not turn on itself. Where can I connect a 3V 1Amp power supply to find a short on the bottom board?

D27 - normal. ~4.6 V on the cathode. TP16 - 0,01 V. TP16 - GND = MOh.
« Last Edit: August 14, 2020, 07:19:46 AM by jvcr »

Offline RDC

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #6 on: August 14, 2020, 08:31:23 AM »
J6 pin 4 or TP9 are the 3.3v rail on the bottom board. Should draw around 10mA by itself when the 3.3vis injected, no top board plugged in.
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

Offline jvcr

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2020, 07:09:26 AM »
J6 pin 4 or TP9 are the 3.3v rail on the bottom board. Should draw around 10mA by itself when the 3.3vis injected, no top board plugged in.
I noticed a consumption current. power 3.3 V
mode mA: current peak 3mA, stable current 0.4 mA
mode A: 0.012-0.026 A (12-26 mA)
« Last Edit: August 17, 2020, 07:16:33 AM by jvcr »

Offline RDC

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2020, 09:31:47 AM »
That's the antenna, use a spot like TP21 or the metal frame of the sticks for a ground connection.

Measure the voltage on J5 pin 11 before you inject the 3.3v and see what it does while injecting it. As soon as the 3.3v is injected J5p11 should jump up to ~3.3v and then cut out after a second or two.  If you see no voltage at all then there's either a broken trace from J5p11 to pin 83 of U1 or the U1 is bad.
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

Offline jvcr

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #9 on: August 18, 2020, 04:39:45 AM »
That's the antenna, use a spot like TP21 or the metal frame of the sticks for a ground connection.

Measure the voltage on J5 pin 11 before you inject the 3.3v and see what it does while injecting it. As soon as the 3.3v is injected J5p11 should jump up to ~3.3v and then cut out after a second or two.  If you see no voltage at all then there's either a broken trace from J5p11 to pin 83 of U1 or the U1 is bad.

The antenna is the same as the ground, but I double-checked everything) Current measurements are the same.
Please check if I understand the pin position on the J5 connector correctly in the picture.
Next, I measured the appearance of a 3.3 V potential for 2 seconds on pin 11 of the J5 connector (when applying a 3.3 V voltage to TP9), not observed.
when you wrote about pin 83 U1, did you mean MCU? how do I find pin 83?




The drawn path from the MCU to D26 is correct
« Last Edit: August 18, 2020, 05:46:38 AM by jvcr »

Offline RDC

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #10 on: August 18, 2020, 12:23:01 PM »
I'm fully aware it's connected to ground, it's just better not used as a spot for connecting power or probing.

Pinout of J5 is correct.

Yes MCU is U1 and pin 1 is marked, left/top row, then go counterclockwise around the IC. Pin 83 is on the top row. If you have the 3.3v on J5p11 for a couple of seconds then it's connected to U1p83 still.

If all of that is working correctly, and the top board is good, then you have some issue I haven't seen yet.
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

Offline jvcr

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #11 on: August 18, 2020, 12:44:36 PM »
If you have the 3.3v on J5p11 for a couple of seconds then it's connected to U1p83 still.


No, 3.3 V on J5p11 is not have for a couple of seconds.
At the same time, as I drew in the image, the track from the MCU (pin 83) to the D26 diode (including J5p11) is solid
« Last Edit: August 18, 2020, 12:53:04 PM by jvcr »

Offline RDC

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #12 on: August 18, 2020, 02:57:54 PM »
Quote
Next, I measured the appearance of a 3.3 V potential for 2 seconds on pin 11 of the J5 connector (when applying a 3.3 V voltage to TP9), not observed.

What exactly does this mean then?
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

Offline jvcr

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #13 on: August 19, 2020, 01:18:15 AM »
That's the antenna, use a spot like TP21 or the metal frame of the sticks for a ground connection.

1. As soon as the 3.3v is injected J5p11 should jump up to ~3.3v and then cut out after a second or two.
2. If you see no voltage at all then there's either a broken trace from J5p11 to pin 83 of U1 or the U1 is bad.

1. Does not jump after a second or two. The voltage is about 0.01 V.
2. The trace from J5p11 to pin 83 U1 is not broken. Trace - ok.
« Last Edit: August 19, 2020, 01:20:15 AM by jvcr »

Offline RDC

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #14 on: August 19, 2020, 02:16:47 AM »
I'd suspect U1 is at fault then, but have never seen this exact issue before.
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

Offline jvcr

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #15 on: August 19, 2020, 05:32:38 AM »
I'd suspect U1 is at fault then, but have never seen this exact issue before.

RDC, this is just a miracle. I cleaned the MCU with a special tool for electrical boards (flux cleaning). And the gamepad worked)
The only thing that LT shows is 100%, but that's another question.

 :drunk:

UPD.: It's working, and it's not working again(((

UPD.: I found a fault. The L1 element was not in place. Which is located near U1.
Do you have a datasheet for U1 (MCU)?
« Last Edit: August 19, 2020, 08:02:06 AM by jvcr »

Offline RDC

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #16 on: August 19, 2020, 09:08:41 AM »
Last time I went hunting for a DS for that thing there was nothing around. It's some chip made by Freescale.

L1 is responsible for sending the 3.3v to the MCU, it has to get thru that thing to power U1. Just replace L1 with a jumper wire for testing first, since it's exact value isn't really critical.
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

Offline jvcr

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #17 on: August 19, 2020, 10:55:34 AM »
Last time I went hunting for a DS for that thing there was nothing around. It's some chip made by Freescale.

L1 is responsible for sending the 3.3v to the MCU, it has to get thru that thing to power U1. Just replace L1 with a jumper wire for testing first, since it's exact value isn't really critical.

Replaced, works. Can I leave the wire? or could it cause damage to the MCU?

Offline RDC

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Re: 1537 controller - weird power-on issues
« Reply #18 on: August 19, 2020, 03:21:22 PM »
It's not going to damage anything leaving it like that. I pulled one from a board here and measured it and they check more like 0ohm jumpers anyway.
Screwing up is one of the best learning tools, so long as the only thing you're not learning is how to screw up.

 

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