XBX/XBS Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1914

[RDC]

It's just for decoupling on the 3.3v rail, anything from 1nF to 1uF would work there.

[rubs]

Thank you RDC my controller is working again! 

Just another doubt not related to this one. How did you desolder the SOC board from the MCU board?

[RDC]

Hot air.

[alsina86]

Hi, what kind of diodes are those?

[RDC]

Two are the missing kind, other two are the almost knocked off kind.

Toss 4 new Schottky type in there and she'll be good to go.

[wolfist]

Hello guys, first time posting here, came across this forum due to faulty controller, I have the 1914 updated with the latest firmware due to the fact that it connects and disconnects from Bluetooth, but after that, it started having issues with D pad, LB, RB, A X and Y.

You would start the controller, test its buttons and they would work fine for about two minutes, it is the same behavior if is connected via cable with no batteries to my computer or to an android phone with Bluetooth.

I had the controller opened and and re solder the socket that connects the Power Board with the MCU Board, making sure there are no shorts among lines and the controller would just behave the same, same buttons work fine for 2 to 5 minutes at much, they would have some lag when pressed and then stop working completely.

So I opened the controller again to check for shorted caps or other components around the U4 component in the Power Board, U4 in the MCU board and shorted caps in the SOC board but found almost nothing.

The only three things that got my attention was the CAP 9 in the bottom of the SOC Board that was not shorted but neither could be measured with ground so I checked the schematics but I was unable to measure it against R8, C47 and C48 at the other side of the SOC Board, second the WiFi cables and their ports would sound short with the multimeter even when the Power and MCU boards were separated, and last, the white component (I believe it is called RF transformer, but the one with 4 soldered points, two at each side) in the SOC board would sound shorted with the multimiter.

So after this description of my problem I would follow your suggestions before the ultimate one which is to buy a new one but I dont like making more garbage so I believe it is worth the try.

Thanks you in advance and hope you all do great.

[RDC]

C9 doesn't connect to ground, and has nothing to do with any of those other components, so no idea what you were trying to test there.

You're continuity checking an RF antenna, that basically is a short with a bit of trace sticking out for the antenna, so there's no issue there.

You're also continuity checking a transformer and that's going to also measure 'shorted', but it's not.

Given that it works, then doesn't after a bit, I'd reflow the MCU and retest. You could poke around during current measurements and looking over the board with a thermal camera while it worked and failed, but something minute is probably warming up and causing an open somewhere, and those BGA connections can do that.

[Greendaycolt]

Check pad 12 of the SOC board, where the SOC board is soldered to the bottom board, and make sure it has continuity to J5p2. If no continuity then repair that open. If it has continuity, then the issue is on the SOC board and would have to be a bad trace, solder joint on the MCU or a bad MCU.

Hi RDC - thanks for the advice but sadly I did not have success with this, continuity was fine between pad 12 and J5p2. Ended up scrapping the board. Now on a different controller, also in close-to-new condition, I have exactly the same issue!

Is there anything else that can be done to troubleshoot? It is bizarre that the guide button still works for powering on the controller but not for the guide function. If it is a problem with the SOC MCU, is there any reasonable way to fix or replace that?

[RDC]

The Guide button turns the controller on by doing things on the top board, the Guide button 'press' is done on the bottom board.

That GU trace is on an internal layer of the SOC board and goes straight to the MCU, with only 1 via in that line.

You could take a needle and jumper wire it to ground, then power up the controller and poke K1 of the BGA to see what happens.

Looking at the board how it is in the first page, the numbering of the BGA is A1 thru T1. The letters I, O, Q and S are not used in BGA pin naming, X and Z are also not used but that chip isn't that big, so that edge goes..

A1 B1 C1 D1 E1 F1 G1 H1 J1 K1 L1 M1 N1 P1 R1 T1

K1 should be connected to pad 12 of the SOC board. If you can't get Guide to activate by grounding out K1, then that solder connection is bad or the MCU has an issue.

[Greendaycolt]

Thanks a lot! I now understand what to do, except for the BGA numbering - can you link the reference diagram that is showing the A1 thru T1? I checked the first page but having trouble finding such.

[RDC]

You can't see any of the BGA connections looking top down, I just used that as the reference. The only ones you can kind of get at are the ones along the outside edges of the chip, and they can only be seen when holding the board almost flat level, 90 degrees from the images of it.

Pinout depends on the chip orientation, with pin A1 in the case of BGA, being in the top left corner, but the chip is on the board 90 degrees Counter Clockwise, so A1 is in the bottom left corner, again looking at it how it is in the images on here. K1 is circled in red.

[Ortillson]

Hello if i solder usb wire to D- D+ 5V and GND pads will it work on PC? I am asking because usb type C has more than four connections.

[RDC]

It will work as long as they are soldered correctly, but there is no real benefit in doing that.

[westwest]

Hello! firstly, thanks for all the info in this post it's a treasure trove.  secondly, I have fried 2 capacitors on the MCU board backside - they're labled c322 and c22 -would you happen to know their capacitance so I can replace? thanks in advance!

[RDC]

You can run it with them missing, not going to hurt anything. If you want to put something there, just toss a 10nF and a 1nF on there. The other Analog lines have a single 10nF, not sure why they went and doubled that one up.

[westwest]

fantastic lmao I'll be honest i was hoping you would say that. This has been my first electronics soldering experience and i'm tired of it, my son wants his controller and I want to be done working on it! Thanks again! 

[Portu40]

Hello, I have a motherboard that apparently got wet. I replaced c36 and c46 which were sulfated but still malfunctioning. Only the triggers, analogs and the power button work. the rest do not respond to any button
https://postimg.cc/dk1rDkC5

[RDC]

Interesting contacts, haven't seen that layout before.

The LSC, RSC and B buttons have nothing to do with the rest of the buttons, which are all on the IO Expander (minus the Guide button), so those should work.

Test the Reset line from U4p24 to J3p9 (goes thru R4) that trace, Resistor or a via can go open and cause issues.

[Portu40]

No. Everything is correct in that area.
Are the replaced capacitors of any particular value? c36 and c46

[RDC]

C36 - 47pF to 51pF
C46 - 100pF

[Portu40]

perfect there it worked very well I changed the c46 but I only got 500 pf from a PS4 011 board
thank you very much for your help as always you are an idol

[Nyree]

Hello, i have an issue with a controller, the controller dpad up is pressed when its turn on some minutes and stay pressed all the time, im looking the power board and it dont have D6, in the schematics says that is a diode, but i cant find that component for replace

[RDC]

It says DNI in the schematic for D6. DNI = Do Not Install, it was never there from the factory.

Either there is some corrosion under the DU contacts, a short on the DU line between the contacts and U4, or U4 has gone bad.

[huggies99]

Hello, can you tell me parameters SMD?

[RDC]

No idea, and no way to accurately measure those here. Since it's part of the filtering for the wireless, I'd get them from a donor board so the values are correct.

[LUCKINHA]

Hello everybody!

I would like to ask for help!  I was changing the right analog stick on the xbox series s/x controller and I accidentally removed capacitor C25 (next to C21) and lost it.  Could anyone tell me the value of the C25 so I can replace it?

[RDC]

C25 is 10nF

[jazpexjones6i9]

I fried my antennae on a 1914 can I some how bypass the antenna connect and run 2 lines? VS coax?

[dtml]

Tried to fit Hall Effect sticks however I managed to take Capacitor 37 off by accident, It works grand for a minute then the stick drifts hard to the left until I power cycle the controller. Any idea what value capacitor C37 is?

[RDC]

C37 is 1uF and it's just a decoupling Cap for the voltage rail of the Trigger Hall sensors, so it's not causing any issue with the sticks. Everything would work fine with it removed, and only the Triggers would be affected if it were shorted. That stick either has some issue, or they aren't great at running from 1.8v