XBX/XBS Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1914

[BakeUrStew]

I replaced a joystick on my 1914, the resistance of the joystick was 10k but the new stick is WAY too sensitive, is there any calibration software for the controller?

[KeptWolf769]

Hi everyone, I have an Xbox series s controller that has a battery pack that charges directly. I plugged in my USB C cable into the controller directly instead of the battery pack and left it for a while. When I finally picked it back up to use it wouldn't turn on. No sign of power at all. And the controller doesn't even vibrate when plugged anymore. The battery pack still works in other controllers and I've also tried AA batteries. What could possibly be the problem and is it something I can fix quickly?

[KeptWolf769]

Hi everyone, I have an Xbox series s controller that has a battery pack that charges directly. I plugged in my USB C cable into the controller directly instead of the battery pack and left it for a while. When I finally picked it back up to use it wouldn't turn on. No sign of power at all. And the controller doesn't even vibrate when plugged anymore. The battery pack still works in other controllers and I've also tried AA batteries. What could possibly be the problem and is it something I can fix quickly?

It's been weeks, can anyone at all tell me anything that may have caused this? A friend sold it to me not long ago and I've been really down since it broke.

[RDC]

It's already broken, so you can't technically break it anymore, but you could have been taking it apart and poking around in there learning something new versus being down about it.

It's going to have to be taken apart and first looked at for any signs of damage, then things tested with a DMM to see what is working and what isn't.

[matrixmm]

Hi, this is my first time asking so sorry if it was asked before.
I have a 1914 controller with blown components.
Can anyone help me with the the following capacitors values?

C11
C23
C24
C26
C36
C54

Below are photos of the location of the elements we are asking about.

Thanks in advance

[Teoden]

Hi folks,

I bought a 1914 from which a stupid preowner disassembled the resistors R10, R13 and the transistor Q3. Maybe a LED-Mod.

Anyone who can help me with the values of these parts?

[RDC]

C11 - 47pF
C23 - 10nF
C24 - 10nF
C26 - 100pF
C36 - 470nF
C54 - 10uF


R10 - 1.5k
R13 - 100k
Q3 - Some N channel FET or NPN Transistor.

[Teoden]

@RDC: 

I assume the resistors are some 0603 or 0402. I will order both sizes.
NPN is a bit difficult cause there types with very different values.

Maybe anyone has time to look on printed numbers on the transistor...

[RDC]

They are 0402 size.

Put a BSS138 in there, SOT23 package. Just about anything 'generic' would work as all it's doing is turning the LED ground on/off.

[sfitos08]

In any case, it's not too much of a financial value for me not to try. So I ordered it, I'm going to try it and then give feedback. 

I bought this, but it turned out to be larger in size

[matrixmm]

C11 - 47pF
C23 - 10nF
C24 - 10nF
C26 - 100pF
C36 - 470nF
C54 - 10uF

Thank you so much for You help.

Can you tell me the value of C30 and C31?
Are C20, C21, C30, C31 the same value?

[RDC]

All of those Caps are on the 1.8v rail and could really be just about any value. On the 1708, which this 1914 was kind of designed from, the first 3 Caps are 1uF and the last is 100nF, but any combination of those values would be fine for those.

[matrixmm]

Thank you very much.
And tell me the value of C27?

[RDC]

Use the values in the 1708 schematic.

[matrixmm]

ok. Thanks for the advice.

[matrixmm]

Can anyone help me with the the following capacitors values?

C32
C33
C35
C37

All of those Caps are on the TRG+ rail.
I blow up C37

Thanks in advance

[RDC]

Use the values in the 1708 schematic.

[Avatar26]

Hoping someone can help me. I was working on replacing the right analog stick and the J2 connector just popped right off the board.
I don't have any donor boards, is there somewhere I can buy the connector?

[RDC]

I haven't seen a board that had J2 on there. J3 is the only one they seem to have populated, and both are just extra ground connections between the 2 boards, so it will still work with one or the other, or even neither of those there.

[Avatar26]

I haven't seen a board that had J2 on there. J3 is the only one they seem to have populated, and both are just extra ground connections between the 2 boards, so it will still work with one or the other, or even neither of those there.

Sorry, I should been more specific. I'm referring to the antenna connector on top of the SOC board.

[RDC]

Kind of hard for that thing to just 'pop' off the board if all you were doing was the Right stick, unless you were blasting the thing with far too much hot air? Is it still connected to the other end in the antenna cable and just came off when that was unplugged? If it was blown off using hot air, I'd give the thing a good once and twice over as something else might be missing or out of place.

No idea what an exact replacement part number would be, as there are tons of that type of Coaxial RF connector that are surface mount, and they all have slightly different sizes.

[Avatar26]

It was still connected to the other end of the cable, it came right off when I disconnected the cable. It didn't come out of the cable connector in one piece, unfortunately. Guess I might need to get my hands on a donor unit.

[RDC]

Best guess, and what I'd get to try out first without digging thru a pile more datasheets - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/2334884-1/10279181

[Greendaycolt]

Hi RDC and all,

Have a weird issue with a 1914 controller - the guide button works to power the controller on (by pressing it down) but the guide function by pressing the same button does not work at all. All other buttons and functions work perfectly. Controller is in like new condition, only a few weeks old, perfect physical condition.

I took the button/power board out and connected it to a different controller?s MCU board - the guide button then works perfectly.

With this, I think the issue is with the suspect controller?s MCU board but not sure where to start. Any troubleshoot/repair advice is appreciated!

[RDC]

Check pad 12 of the SOC board, where the SOC board is soldered to the bottom board, and make sure it has continuity to J5p2. If no continuity then repair that open. If it has continuity, then the issue is on the SOC board and would have to be a bad trace, solder joint on the MCU or a bad MCU.

[alsina86]

hello, I am trying to repair the 1914 board which has both triggers pressed everything else works perfect. Transistors U10 and U11 output 3.3V based on the measurement I made. I also took the measurement from the transistors to TP67 and TP68 having 0.82V and while taking that measurement I pressed the trigger and the voltage dropped to Zero, while doing that I could notice a trigger reaction on the gamepad tester, the same thing happened on both triggers. Any suggestions what could it be?

[RDC]

They are Hall Effect Sensors, not Transistors. They couldn't output 3.3v if they wanted to as their Output is at most half of their 3.3v Input, and that 3.3v is switched on/off versus on constantly. So with a DMM, that measurement is only going to come out to around 1.2v on pin 1.

The 0.82v to 0v makes no sense either, as that kind of voltage there means they should technically be working. The Output, pin 2 of them, will measure around 0.17v  not pulled, to 0.02v fully pulled.

[alsina86]

thank you so much. what would be the correct temperature to reflow the U9 controller and estimated time

[RDC]

You're way over thinking that. It's a X2SON-4 package Regulator, not a 1932 FPBGA. Toss a nozzle on the hot air setup, flux it up and have at it until it reflows.

[rubs]

Hi! I've found that the C301 on the MCU board is shorted. Does anyone know this capacitor's value?