XBX/XBS Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1914

[APintoZ]

Hello, these PCBs are much more difficult to de solder components than the ones from the 1537 and 1708 models. Do you have any hints on how to do it without damaging the PCB, please? Thank you!

[RDC]

13 posts above yours.

[siara]

Hi,

I have a question for me is U10 and U11 marked with 303 and not with 304, is it a Hall effect transistor  or FDV303N Mosfet

Kind regards
Christopher

[RDC]

U10/U11 are Hall Sensors.

[siara]

I can't find a hall sensor with the designation 303 on the internet. Unfortunately I can't insert a picture, I'm still blocked?

[RDC]

I've only seen the 303 Halls on the 1537 boards, ages ago now. The A1304 should work as a replacement.

[siara]

So my mainboard "SH 1 94V-0 E248779 0522001" looks like the 1914 but has 303 instead of 304 otherwise it is identical

[Qball]

Ran across a new issue one of of these controllers the led seems to be dead anyone know what led I need to buy to replace it with? Also tips on how to install it I used hot air to remove it and figured maybe heating the board from the backside would be my best bet for installing it

[RDC]

You can use just about about any 0805 sized LED you want in there. Preferably one rated for 3.3v to 3.6v, which most White or Blue LEDs will be, but ones with a lower voltage can be used if you change the value of R5 along with it. Install it the same way you removed it. By the time you get it soldered by heating the back of the board you'll have nuked something back there. Alternately you can clean the solder pads off and then solder one side down first with the iron, then do the other side.

[Qball]

Thank you for the advice

[FidgetyNinja]

This is incredibly helpful, but can anyone provide me with the values for R3, R7, R24, and C21 of the MCU board top? I got a little careless removing the right analog stick.

[RDC]

All of those Resistor values are in the MCU Board schematic in the first post.

C21 is on the 1.8v rail for decoupling, you can toss just about anything in there from 100nF to 1uF, or leave it off.

[Qball]

So my issue turns out to be that component Q3 seems to not be working. I have 3.5 volts going into one side of the LED and like a little over a volt on the other but when measuring the right side to ground the light will come on remove my leads and light goes off. What is Q3 so I can replace it or can I bypass it with a jumper to ground

[RDC]

Take a 1k Resistor and go from TP40 to TP42 (just to the left of R10) with it and see if the LED comes on first. If it does come on, then Q3 is good and the issue could be one of several things, if it doesn't come on then Q3 is probably bad, but that would surprise me.

[Qball]

So the 1k resistor did fix the issue.

[RDC]

Not a fix, that's just a test. The actual issue is still there. The trace from Q3 to R10 could be open, R10 could be bad, the trace from R10 to J3p6 could be open, bad solder joint at J3. Then if all of that is good, the issue is on the bottom board somewhere. J5p6 bad solder joint, then that goes to the SOC board pin 14, then on the SOC board it goes to a Resistor then to the MCU.

[pegast]

Hello guys,

i have a strange problem..... when i plug any antenna cable in connector of black circle then T2(in red circle) is getting shorted and hot so it stops working....

Any idea how can i fix it? I suspect ARM....

Controller is working with antenna's connector unplugged J2 but it cant be connected wirelessly....

There is a T2 component on the SOC board. What is it and can it be bought?
When I replace it from another board, the controller works because the primary original T2 is shorted.

Edit:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004421310753.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.228f1802Kh5VxD

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjcxsGNl_r9AhVw57sIHXe8CIIQFnoECBAQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.minicircuits.com%2Fpdfs%2FNCS2-33%2B.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3-imux6ADmWhBK-w-_-tzB

[RDC]

It's an RF Transformer, and no idea on the specs. A donor board is the only place to get one that will work, as long as it's not bad as well.

[pegast]

It's an RF Transformer, and no idea on the specs. A donor board is the only place to get one that will work, as long as it's not bad as well.

I think I found it, looks like it's him..

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004421310753.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.228f1802Kh5VxD

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjcxsGNl_r9AhVw57sIHXe8CIIQFnoECBAQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.minicircuits.com%2Fpdfs%2FNCS2-33%2B.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3-imux6ADmWhBK-w-_-tzB

[RDC]

Here's a good 20+ more, all with different specs, that also 'look' like it. Have to have more to go on than just the package to get the proper replacement.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/balun/849?s=N4IgjCBcpgbFoDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbRACZYB2cmkAXQIAcAXKEAZRYCcBLAOwDmIAL4FYATgQhkkdNnxFSIACwAGCQGYtDZm0iceA4SLEgArNKZQwza5HLnTQA

[pegast]

Here's a good 20+ more, all with different specs, that also 'look' like it. Have to have more to go on than just the package to get the proper replacement.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/balun/849?s=N4IgjCBcpgbFoDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbRACZYB2cmkAXQIAcAXKEAZRYCcBLAOwDmIAL4FYATgQhkkdNnxFSIACwAGCQGYtDZm0iceA4SLEgArNKZQwza5HLnTQA

I thought you were the experts here to give advice 

My logic is simple: 
Almost all electrical engineering is produced in China.
Microsoft outsources production of its controls to China.
Aliexpress is Chinese.
I found only two sellers on Aliexpress that sell the part that is in the Microsoft controller.
Why wouldn't that part fit in the controller, when Aliexpress is Chinese and there are also spare parts for products that China makes for Microsoft... 

[Qball]

Not a fix, that's just a test. The actual issue is still there. The trace from Q3 to R10 could be open, R10 could be bad, the trace from R10 to J3p6 could be open, bad solder joint at J3. Then if all of that is good, the issue is on the bottom board somewhere. J5p6 bad solder joint, then that goes to the SOC board pin 14, then on the SOC board it goes to a Resistor then to the MCU.

Seems the trace from r10 to Q3 must've been broken I soldered a jumper from r10 to the top leg of q3 more because the TP there lifted as a result of the capacitor test and then tested again and now the LED comes on

[RDC]

Already gave you advice on where to get the correct part from.

Nowhere at all in either of your links does it say those are for the XB1 controller, so your logic ladder is already missing a few rungs there. Everything else is speculation and guessing based on where you found it, what it looks like and what you are assuming.

I also never said it wouldn't fit, fact is there are over 20 parts that will 'fit' there, and plenty more that aren't even a Transformer or Balun that will also 'fit' there, doesn't mean they are the right part based on what it looks like and where you found it.


@ Qball - Good deal.

[pegast]

Already gave you advice on where to get the correct part from.

Nowhere at all in either of your links does it say those are for the XB1 controller, so your logic ladder is already missing a few rungs there. Everything else is speculation and guessing based on where you found it, what it looks like and what you are assuming.

I also never said it wouldn't fit, fact is there are over 20 parts that will 'fit' there, and plenty more that aren't even a Transformer or Balun that will also 'fit' there, doesn't mean they are the right part based on what it looks like and where you found it.


@ Qball - Good deal.

In any case, it's not too much of a financial value for me not to try. So I ordered it, I'm going to try it and then give feedback. 

[FidgetyNinja]

All of those Resistor values are in the MCU Board schematic in the first post.

Sorry if I'm blind, but this is all I found. The schematic in the link doesn't have the values for those.

My Schematic* of the MCU Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1_1914_BOTTOM_BOARD_NOVALUES.pdf

...

* Information will be updated when/if I get them scoped and/or figured out. NOTE: The MCU Board values are not currently in the schematic. The thing seems to be pretty similar to the 1708 and most of those values should match up.

C21 is on the 1.8v rail for decoupling, you can toss just about anything in there from 100nF to 1uF, or leave it off.

Thanks!

[RDC]

Not blind, that was on me, I thought this one here was up to date but I must have added those in and didn't update this one. They're in there now.

[FidgetyNinja]

Not blind, that was on me, I thought this one here was up to date but I must have added those in and didn't update this one. They're in there now.

Sweet! Thank you much!

[TipToeTiger]

Hi all,

I keep destroying PCB pads then desoldering anagloue sticks. Is there any diagrams out there that show what wires I would need to run from each point to restore the broken connections? I have had a look at the PCB scans but still cant figure it out.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan

[LoCoZomB]

Hey guys, so I?ve come across a few 1914?s now where it basically tells me that ? the controller needs an update? the moment I plug it in/power it on. So naturally I go ahead and initiate the update and it fails and basically renders the joysticks dead other than the click function. I know the controllers didn?t have drift or any other issue when doing the update so I know that?s not what it?s screwing it up. Anyone else come across this issue/fix?

[azin]

Hi,I hope you are doing great. i have a problem with my controller. it thinks that RT and LT is always active. i have tried removing hall sensor nothing changed. i removed R42 and R39 but they stayed active,then i connect the R39 and R42 by small wire thought resistore must be the problem but they are stay active. how can i cut this signal? is it something wrong with main chip?