Author Topic: XBX/XBS Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1914 (Read 71720 times)

RDC · « **Reply #120 on:** December 15, 2022, 02:51:47 PM »

Having 0.45v on TP113 and 0v on R38 is contradictory as they are on the same trace.

If you are measuring across R38, that's going to measure 0v, and would be the same as measuring the voltage with both test leads connected together.

sangue · « **Reply #121 on:** December 23, 2022, 06:24:05 AM »

Hello, sorry for question;

i want the B key in the back of the controller, like the scuf controller, is this possible?
If yes,Is there anyone who can tell me where to solder?

i have 2 of this button and 2 wire

Hope you have a great day,
regards

RDC · « **Reply #122 on:** December 23, 2022, 08:12:03 AM »

Yes. Use TP41 on the bottom board and ground.

sangue · « **Reply #123 on:** December 24, 2022, 01:13:15 PM »

Quote from: RDC on December 23, 2022, 08:12:03 AM

Yes. Use TP41 on the bottom board and ground.

Thank you so much for the reply,
If you want and can, can you make a simple pattern? (I'm a rookie).
I have 2 wires and the buttons.

I hope you have happy holidays.
Thank you again for replying to me.
Greetings

Sangaley · « **Reply #124 on:** December 31, 2022, 03:12:45 AM »

Greetings friends! Does anyone have a circuit of the lower board?
U8 is a 3.3v 1.8 converter? There is no voltage of 1.8V.
What is U9 responsible for?

RDC · « **Reply #125 on:** December 31, 2022, 03:38:29 AM »

U8 is the 1.8v Regulator for the AN+ (Analog voltage) that the Sticks use.

U9 is a 3.2v Regulator for the Trigger Hall sensors. That one is turned on/off 125 times every second, so it's not going to measure like your typical regulator and you need a scope to see what it's doing.

Those regulators are about the same on almost every version of the controller so far. The 1708 schematic has the U8 and U9 circuits shown in there, and overall the 1914 isn't a huge change from the 1708.

Sangaley · « **Reply #126 on:** December 31, 2022, 03:45:08 AM »

Thank you, friend.
Is U8 U9 possible to buy? Or to look for a donor?

Sangaley · « **Reply #127 on:** December 31, 2022, 04:58:43 AM »

Can I solder any chip separately so that it outputs 1.8V and will work?

RDC · « **Reply #128 on:** December 31, 2022, 09:23:24 AM »

U8 and U9 part numbers are in the 1708 Bottom Board schematic.

Sangaley · « **Reply #129 on:** December 31, 2022, 10:10:03 AM »

I have the same problem as Vagan. When powered by batteries, the power button blinks once and goes out. After several attempts, the controller can turn on and connect via Bluetooth, but after a few seconds it turns off. When powered by usb, it flashes 9 times and goes out.
I found a capacitor in a short circuit on the 1.8 V power supply. The 1.8V power supply itself was gone. Can the controller behave this way due to the lack of 1.8 V?

alexzai89 · « **Reply #130 on:** January 12, 2023, 03:37:35 AM »

Dear All,

Want to ask if any of you guys know what the value of the things i circle in red?

Thanks in advance.

RDC · « **Reply #131 on:** January 12, 2023, 05:24:20 AM »

@ Sangaley - Shorting the 1.8v rail here caused the controller to not even power up.

@ alexzai89 - The component on the left there is in one of the antenna filters. That would be a pain to measure and the best option would be to get another broken controller to use for a parts donor. The component on the right is just a decoupling cap on the 3.3v rail, and it'll be fine with it missing or you could put anything from 1nf to 1uF there.

atarisoul · « **Reply #132 on:** February 05, 2023, 05:53:16 AM »

Hello. If I connect the Bluetooth antenna wire to J2 the controller is dead. Unplugged it works fine and bluetooth connects but only if very close to my tablet. J1 is OK. I've looked at the schematics and close up photo's of the area around J2 and I can't see any problems with the components or board.

Is this a fault with an SMD around J2?

Thanks in advance.

RDC · « **Reply #133 on:** February 05, 2023, 06:23:00 AM »

RFF2 and/or T2 on the SOC board are suspect. You'll have to get replacements from a donor board. Parts from a 1708 board can be used also.

atarisoul · « **Reply #134 on:** February 06, 2023, 01:22:33 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 05, 2023, 06:23:00 AM

RFF2 and/or T2 on the SOC board are suspect. You'll have to get replacements from a donor board. Parts from a 1708 board can be used also.

Thanks for your help. I don't have a donor board. Any ideas what these components are so i can buy them?

RDC · « **Reply #135 on:** February 06, 2023, 03:44:53 AM »

They're RF transformers or Baluns. Finding a broken controller for parts would be far easier than trying to track down exactly what the specs of those things are.

Qball · « **Reply #136 on:** February 12, 2023, 09:50:31 PM »

Anyone have any tips for removing the joysticks on these ones. Seems I'm having to go back to 1698 days where I jist cut the jkystick and remlved each pin. On 1708 I could remove it whole

RDC · « **Reply #137 on:** February 13, 2023, 06:42:31 AM »

The axis lines, AN+ and 2 of the stick button solder joints shouldn't be giving you much grief, but the 8 ground connections are where you just need to use more heat. The 1708 doesn't have plated thru holes like the 1914 does, so all of that heat you try to put into solder joint gets 'pulled' away by the large ground planes of the board. Use some flux also, or heat up the joints and flow a bit of fresh solder on then before trying to desolder them. You can also do some preheating to the board, a hair dryer, careful use of a heat gun or an actual PCB preheater and warm the whole thing up a little bit so then it doesn't pull away the heat as fast when you put the iron back to it. You don't need the whole board screaming hot where parts start falling off or things start burning, just warm it up good and then do the desoldering.

scorpion2782 · « **Reply #138 on:** February 14, 2023, 02:09:20 PM »

while trying to replace analogue, I accidentally broke the D15 diode. Now the controller no longer turns on. How much is the size? Could I replace it with a non-SMD and get the same result?

RDC · « **Reply #139 on:** February 14, 2023, 02:47:14 PM »

D15 isn't really needed, look for a broken trace/pad around D15 as it's probably open now and not letting the VBUS voltage get from the R7/R8 divider to R24. Or there is leftover D15 bits that are shorting now and causing the issue, in which case clean up the leftovers and try.

scorpion2782 · « **Reply #140 on:** February 14, 2023, 03:02:06 PM »

I don't see anything short on D15, but it seems to me that they skipped C20, C22, C24 and maybe C322...

scorpion2782 · « **Reply #141 on:** February 14, 2023, 03:07:35 PM »

https://ibb.co/17sCHFj
https://ibb.co/YhyDcRN

RDC · « **Reply #142 on:** February 14, 2023, 03:09:31 PM »

Clean up around those caps, C20 looks shorted to me, and if it is then the AN+ line would be shorted and the controller wouldn't turn on in that case.

scorpion2782 · « **Reply #143 on:** February 14, 2023, 04:01:07 PM »

And how to replace C20?

RDC · « **Reply #144 on:** February 14, 2023, 04:11:31 PM »

I'd use a hot air rework station. The cap is not needed to see of the controller will work or not. Just remove the left over bits of them all there and test first, then you can install a new one if you want, 1uF or so will be fine.

scorpion2782 · « **Reply #145 on:** February 14, 2023, 10:22:04 PM »

I don?t have hot air rework station? can I use a no SMD capacitor? 1uF, how may V? If don?t work, I must by another board. Damn?.

RDC · « **Reply #146 on:** February 15, 2023, 05:28:51 AM »

Just use the soldering iron and clean up those areas where the caps were destroyed. Then test the controller.

scorpion2782 · « **Reply #147 on:** February 16, 2023, 01:07:26 AM »

i tried with my soldering iron but i can't solder smd components, i have to try to take a ceramic capacitor 1 uF max 5V and try to solder it again, as a last resort....

RDC · « **Reply #148 on:** February 16, 2023, 08:05:52 AM »

There are no SMT components to solder, just clean up the board there and then test it. It does not need that capacitor in there to work.

scorpion2782 · « **Reply #149 on:** February 17, 2023, 03:31:49 AM »

Nothing, unfortunately it does not turn on anymore ... C20, C22, C24 and C322 are skipped... I guess I'll have to take the logic board to replace. I had just changed the two analog for the drift problem.... the Xbox symbol does not turn on, even if I connect it to the computer...

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Author Topic: XBX/XBS Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1914 (Read 71720 times)