Repair Help for JDM 030

[MrM@g00]

Hi

First post for a novice repair for DS4 board JDM 030. I had damaged the board replacing the module for a stuck forward D pad fix.
I have read loads of stuff and was wondering if this is correct for repair to solder the connections to complete the module connections?
Hoping the pictures are clear enough and hoping for your support and thanks in advance

ps - Not sure how to upload pic so here's my Dropbox link:   https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/0347gf93azh504fevk9ji/board-2.jpg?rlkey=oz2vbv575ric5egj0qm2wg9dq&dl=0

[Eren_Ackerman]

You had an evident bridge where I put the red circle, which is causing the analog to go up. And you also to move the pin where I put the blue circle away from the line that is cut because the pin is not supposed to touch that line. That pin should touch ground.

[MrM@g00]

Hi..thanks for your help...
So the blue circle one, can I just expose some copper board and solder to that/
And the red one, is that ok on the same line but not touching the board?
The red line i've drawn for jumper cable...Is that ok?

What about this?  https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/zh6z61sdws254l133kcdh/board-new.jpg?rlkey=am8nc9iy9dg2hqe9mb182g0ez&dl=0 

[Eren_Ackerman]

Your orange lines are correct, but the red line is incorrect. It was correct in your first comment.

[MrM@g00]

Ok thanks again...so how do I ground the pin in the BLUE circle... and the RED circle, should I just make sure the new solder line isnt touching the board  - Sorry just learning ?

[Eren_Ackerman]

You can scrape the surface where I put this back circle for ground, then bend the pin to that direction and solder there. Be sure to use flux. Then, about the red circle, yes; rebuild the line avoiding contact with the other surface there. Flux is the key to both cases.

[MrM@g00]

Hi...That's fantastic - Many thanks indeed and I'll post a progress update

[MrM@g00]

Hi...This is what I managed but no power to pcb now?  https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/w3f8di14mtzxs1vt40k09/pcb.jpg?rlkey=7mfw2mce281u2ryansv8oqive&dl=0

[RDC]

You've most likely managed to short the 3.2v to ground now. Remove all of that and clean it up good, then test. Expect the original fails to come back, but the controller should power on again. Then go one jumper wire repair at a time and test before moving on to the next one.

[MrM@g00]

Hi
Ok thanks will do and I'll post a pic of the bare board for reference - I also appreciate your quick reply
UPDATE - CLEAN BOARD??? 
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/i0bx36bdksnbbhqnnw39n/IMG_6037.jpg?rlkey=wrcdphampldst5jnr1pk8hihy&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/t8vise9prcmltirgqtz8p/pcb2.jpg?rlkey=6qz2mpv8ifzmkwccskyivaqz9&dl=0

[RDC]

Yeah, you had the 3.2v shorted to ground. Shouldn't have really hurt anything.

You have exposed a lot of ground plane around the broken traces now, so unless you are careful you're going to short something to ground again. Use a smaller wire, less solder and go one jumper repair at a time and retest after the repair before doing the next one.

[MrM@g00]

Hi..That's fantastic - Makes it all so much clearer for me - Everyones been real helpfull here
For info, I attched the board (as it is) to the battery then the charger port but nothing is happening - Do you think I've killed it?

[RDC]

It should still make the USB device detected sound on a PC if it's being plugged in there. If that's not happening, then there is some other issue, FPC cable damaged or plugged in backwards or who knows, but if just no LEDs are coming on that's 'normal for now' because that LED has no power with that one trace open there.

[MrM@g00]

Hi
Yeah all good - pluggged into pc and voila - setting up wireless controller...OK onto the soldering now

[MrM@g00]

Hi
OK - I have re-soldered everythin with success and tested the controller (amazed I did it) and it all worked as it should.
I tested on COD as it's quite intensive - about 3 or 4 hours...However a problem popped up in that  the R2/FIRE button started randomly firing off
in the game - so could this be the board again or definetly the flrx? Can't thanks you all enough  

[Eren_Ackerman]

That R2 problem seems like it might just be dirty. You could clean the right side membrane connector with a tiny bit of alcohol and a gentle scrub and it should be gone. Try cleaning the pads on the board first and test, and then if the issue is still there you can clean the membrane connector. You have to be careful with how much you scrub on the membrane because you could scrape away the conductive paint and then some buttons could stop working until you buy another membrane for replacement.

[MrM@g00]

Hi there
Thanks for that info...I actually use a soft toothbrush and iso alcohol to clean stuff so maybe you're spot on - Need to avoid the toothbrush or lean a lighter lighter. I'll have another look and thanks again

[MrM@g00]

 :clap:UPDATE...Had to eventually change the flex although a clean initially helped - Best thing that after 4 or 5 hours of COD the controller works great - Major acievment in my book and many thanks indeed to those who helped