JDM-055 (1-982-707-31) Schematic

[RDC]

https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/JDM-055.dxf

[boa]

Thanks a bunch!

I'm doing an analog stick mod using arduino stick that looks like this.




I've connected Pins 1 & 3 to a DPDT switch to totally disconnect only 1 pin of each trimpot.

Question is do I need to use another DPDT switch for pins 2&4?
I'd imagine if its in DPDT POSITION 2, the internal pot that's connected to the board will affect resistance? Or it won't since the other side is disconnected?

[RDC]

Doing it the way you have it wired there, half of the 'disconnected' POT will still be in circuit when the other POT is, and that will give you grief.

You can still do what you're wanting there with a single DPDT, and only 4 wires at the connector. Just wire up the X and Y Axis lines of the board to the 2 Poles, then your 4 Throws will go to the 4 POT Wipers. Power and Ground can stay connected to all of the POTs all the time.

The higher the value the Internal POTs are the less it will add to the current draw when both are connected at the same time. If you are using 30k that's fine, but you could use up to 1M in there and they will still work.

You could even use a DPDT switch IC and have that 5th connector pin make it turn on/off, so when you removed the external stick it defaults to the internal POTs. That connector also doesn't look keyed, aka can only be plugged in one way. If it is not keyed and can be plugged in either way, take care with the wiring so no issues are caused there in case it's accidentally plugged in backwards.

[Sterist]

greetings and thank you so much for taking the time to make this ♥️🥰 I've run into an 055 with what is labeled as R71 confirmed to be blown

i do not have a known good board to compare against but on another board which has failed for other reasons, R71 tests at 7.5k

on the schematic R71 is just about the only resistor (or maybe the only one at all?) with no labelled value

additionally, the schematic shows it in line with a thermistor TH1 but on the Top Designators it shows no thermistor but instead an R72 which is entirely missing from the schematic

each document contradicts the other and contains no value for either, I'm fairly certain R72 and TH1 are supposed to be the same thing (possibly a resistor in the place of a thermistor)

can someone please confirm values, and if it is in fact a thermistor (and not a resistor)

[RDC]

R71 = 7.5k, and there are more than a few other Resistors that I don't have measured on there.

The R72 designator is really TH1. Fixed that now, and I'm sure it's probably not the only error on there you'd run across if you went digging. Thanks for pointing it out.

[Sterist]

R71 = 7.5k, and there are more than a few other Resistors that I don't have measured on there.

The R72 designator is really TH1. Fixed that now, and I'm sure it's probably not the only error on there you'd run across if you went digging. Thanks for pointing it out.

in that particular region of the board, C79 is prior to a VIA (EDIT: and is in line with R71),
 I'm not a schematic wiz and don't know the terms for designators on the sheet but i think C79 should be appearing before the "3.2vA" (which is probably supposed to be the actual VIA ?)

C79 has not been of concern in my particular case and i have not inspected to see if it's present in the schematic, but i did notice it's absence from the appropriate location

and regarding TH1 i just did a quick test by blowing on it while holding probes on it and observed a rapid change in resistance, so I'm fairly certain it's an actual NTC and not a resistor substituting for one 👍

[RDC]

TH1 was already updated.

C79 is on there and where it's supposed to be.

[Sterist]

now for a slight change of direction 😅 if I'm going from 3 orange flashes with no resistor in place, to no signs of life at all with a correct value resistor in place, any idea what might i be looking for 🥺 coming up empty handed

(battery only, charger only, or charger and battery, as well as charged or depleted battery under the same circumstances, has had no affect on result)

[RDC]

Give the Reset button a long press, with a charged battery or on USB power, 10 seconds or so, probably not going to do a thing but it's an easy try.

If that does nothing, the first thing to always do is undo whatever you did, and make sure it goes back to acting how it did before. Then at least you'll know if you're still chasing the same issue or a new one you might have created.

You said that Resistor was blown also, no idea what you meant by that, but if it was actually nuked, then I'd suspect the MCU isn't too happy. Odd for a Resistor to just fail open without some real current going thru there, but it can happen.

Also need the battery plugged in as they aren't happy on just the USB cable alone.

[Sterist]

found another blown resistor on the same power rail but different region, so that's probably going to solve my issue in a bit

but in the process of identifying that, i noticed that the touchpad button (switch) doesn't have pads shown on Top Designators, and the via that the switch goes to is shown there as an isolated via (trace missing)

[RDC]

Course the via has no trace, because there's no pad for it to go to. The Reset, Options and Share footprints aren't there either. Like I said, it's not complete and may never be.

[Sterist]

understood but... is it okay to point out identifying wherever isn't, for potential future info? or should i just not?

[Majhool000]

THANK YOU SO MUCH. I had a resistor fall off while I was replacing the joystick on my controller (Which turned out to be the wrong one) and when I was removing it I found out that R31 was missing  . Thankfully through the amazing schematic that you provided I was able to take a the correct resistor from a parts board that I had and was able to fix it. Thanks again.

[Majhool000]

I just have a question. I somehow broke the start button, I don't know the name of the button to even search for, would you be able to assist me on that? and is it replaceable?

I am fairly new to soldering and not that good with the hot air gun, but I will give it a try if it was possible.

[RDC]

The Touchpad/Start button is a Tact switch, 6mm, SMT, 3.5mm Actuator height from the board. No idea what the gf rating is, higher the number the more fore it takes to press.

[Majhool000]

Thank you very much

[Aleblazer]

https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/DS4/JDM-055/JDM-055.dxf

Heya, first post here, I'm looking to design a replacement PCB for JDM-055 using an RP2040 for opensource firmware like GP2040, I've designed several keyboard PCBs in kicad, and feel like this would be a nice project to allow for a more hackable PS4 controller. The dxf really helps out on my board size and shape measurements, but I was wondering if you've posted the PCB design files you have from your reverse engineering of the board. I'd love to work off of your placement and measurement data, especially on those control pad flex cable contact points.

[RDC]

Interesting, curious to see where that goes. My gerber files are not what I would consider to be that accurate, as I never intended to make a drop in replacement board. They are mainly just an 'eyeball' way for comparing the schematic to the board to make sure that it matches.

The FPC pads are 1.15mm spacing, then 2.3mm between the rows, the actual pad size is really subject. You may run into issues with those mating to the FPC if the contacts on your board are flat, versus the slight carbon coating build up they did on the actual board. Having the board done ENIG and making sure there is as little solder mask around that mating area as possible, like the original is, will give you the best chance they make a good connection without adding to the PCB build. Could do HASL and make solder 'bumps' on the board pads, but I'm not really a fan of that as the solder alone doesn't make for a great contact only connection. If the mating half of it can 'dig' into it a bit then yeah, but there is nothing on that FPC to do that, though that might work alright for testing purposes. Could also do either and use some carbon ink on them to replicate the original design.

[ZhenyaKa]

JDM-055.

Initially, everything was OK, then I pressed the USB port for better contact and after that the joystick stopped being detected (strangely). The 5V, GND lines are ringing, D+ D- are ringing from USB to the inductors on the main board too.
The joystick is not detected by the computer. I replaced the SPG chip. The situation is the same. 5V is supplied to the chip. Is there a 3.2V output. Should there be any other voltages when connecting USB, or am I looking for the wrong one?

I changed the USB-pcb, I ribbon-cable too - the result is the same

Main CPU dead? But battery does not charge

[farqad77]

Hello Great Job Thanks for that I want to ask u what meaning for CM1 mentioned in PDF because I have same board and have short in board

[RDC]

CM1 is a Common Mode choke, it's just 2 Inductors in the same package on the USB data lines.

[almuri22]

How do I get a pcb controller ps4

[farqad77]

Hi Dear
u do great job since there no schematic for DS only u do that, If I have A died DS4 What first thing to test, Help me plz beacuse Iam new on repairing DS. Best regrads