Acidmods
Console Modding------ ( Here you can talk about your favorite Consoles ) => XBOX 360 => 360 Controllers / 360 Rapid Fire Controllers => Topic started by: Modded Matt on December 01, 2008, 08:40:14 AM
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ok rapid fire 555 chip with pot
part list:
part----------------------------radio shack #
TLC 555 timer-------------------276-1718
1.0uf tantalum capacitor--------272-1434
0.1uf ceramic disc capacitor----272-135
1K resistor(x2)---------------------271-1321
100k potomitor / trimmer----------271-284
ICPC board----------------------276-159
npn switching transistor--------276-1617
on/off spst toggle switch-------275-327
30 gage wire
***please give king mike credit for these origional pic's I just modified them to fit my needs. thanks mike.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2F555Trigger.png&hash=bfef3a12550515d497ac8686ff0ef4f315a840cf)
we want to keep all components as close to the 555 as we can.
1) Insert 555 timer into center of pc board, bend legs toward center, don’t solder yet.
2) Make two jumpers 1" long. (Two pieces of wire stripped on each end) keep it all close
To chip, put these jumpers into same holes as the chip's legs.
2A) first jumper pin four to eight
2B) second jumper pin two to six
2C) solder jumpers and chip to pc board, only fill the holes we are using!!
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2F1-2.jpg&hash=cebb77374455a6bfe7092e48aa1dfddb0026ac84)
3) Solder in 1k res pins seven and eight, make sure you have one more open hole at in eight
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2F2-1.jpg&hash=69b4b1a991290fba1f0873c8e381f6fc2505cd20)
4) Put in 1.0 uf tantalum capacitor at pins one and two, this cap has a positive side and negative side the positive side should be in hole two. Now solder only pin two. (Leave neg side for now)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2F3-1.jpg&hash=7c74ea97a16510e6a58f0908f9d2c5f66c6caf1e)
5) Put in 0.1 uf capacitor at pins one and five. At pin one, put this cap in the same hole as the last capacitor. You should still have one hole open at pin one. solder pins one and five.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2F4-1.jpg&hash=2cc7658c94c37530cadb1f49efd832a5d369decb)
6) on the pot you should have three legs, two close, and one by itself. snip off one of the two that are close to each other.
6A) solder a three inch pic of wire to each of the remaining pins of the pot
6B) solder one of these wires to pin two of the 555
6C) solder the other wire to pin seven of the 555
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2F5r.jpg&hash=676499e0520c60656c7622a92165bade512a47ef)
7) solder in a long wire (6 inches or so) into the last hole of pin one (this is for gnd)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2F6r.jpg&hash=ebe4796fa761c1f177c9141cbf78ba621b419859)
8) solder in a long wire (6 inches or so) into the last hole of pin eight (this is for vdd)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2F7r.jpg&hash=8402b60c11a404231d8f9287e70789667816bb1b)
9) solder in a long wire (6 inches or so) into the last hole of pin three (this is for output)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2F8r.jpg&hash=0d40a7c4af51171e19f818bc0bca1063181dacc2)
done:
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2F9r.jpg&hash=39ba24da34e75e827c3eac8794dfea618692dd85)
now the chip is complete time to install
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2Fpowerpoints.jpg&hash=ef8ae4636aa476ffd5f3d24cc0656fd3fbf3c3e2)
1) cut back pc board as close as you can
2) remove right rumble pack and hallow out controller to make sure nothing pinches any wires, glue in chip
3) run the pin eight wire to the mic's supply voltage
4) run the pin one wire to the battery ground
5) drill two 1/4 inch holes between the d pad and the right stick in the top of the controller, they should be on top of each other, then connect them creating a slot of the on/off slide switch. use common sense here and make sure you are putting this slot where the switch will fit.
6) run the wire from pin three to one leg of the switch
7) run a new wire from the switch to a 1k res and into the base pin of the npn transistor
8) solder te collector of the transistor to the middle trigger pin
9) solder the EMITTER to the bottom trigger pin.
test, adjust pot, close controller. now if you play multiple diff games you may want to mount the pot through the controller, this is you preference. drill a 1/4 hole where you want it and hot glue it in place. I left mine inside the controller, and must open it, when I need to readjust it. this is a pain. I thought about mounting it, but the moved on to programming my own pic's. 555 is obsolete.
***EDIT***
1. this mod is for Rapid fire on your trigger, in order to create rapid fire on your triggers, you MUST use the transistor.
2. the switch is to turn the mod off and on.
3. this mod works on matrix and cg, with no alterations
4. it is cheaper, easier, and faster to install rapid fire if you go to the acid mods shop and buy a kit from there. but for the do it your selfer, this works very well
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Which controllers does this work on? CG, Matrix, both?
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Which controllers does this work on? CG, Matrix, both?
tested and designed for CG
I will look into the matrix this evening
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I followed this way and it turned out to work very well. I put it in a red controller I found at gamestop. Ill post some pictures later.
Thanks.
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so does this work on the matrix?
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so does this work on the matrix?
Yes it does, I did it to mine earlier today(too bad both my button AND switch decided to...break) and it works great. You do NOT need the transistor though, on either controller model. At least, mine works without it and on my other controller (CG) I didn't need it using a 555.
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thanks kicks! i guess i'll probably be doing this on all four controllers. But i'm buying my parts from mouser.com, if i bought them all at radioshack it would cost me about $60 for four controllers. anyway, i've had trouble with switches and buttons also, first, i bought buttons that were always closed, and now one of the switches i bought is broken. stupid radioshack.
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The point of the transister is to have rapid fire on a triger not the switch .. so when the trigger is pull it rapid fires ..
just like the Pic 12F683 Rapid fire on Trigger..
I don'r get this do
part----------------------------radio shack #
TLC 555 timer-------------------276-1718
1.0uf tantalum capacitor--------272-1434
0.1uf ceramic disc capacitor----272-135
1K resistor(x2)---------------------271-1321
100k potomitor / trimmer----------271-284
ICPC board----------------------276-284
npn switching transistor--------276-1617
on/off spst toggle switch-------275-327
30 gage wire
Buy all this is way more than just buying a dual rapidfire kit from the store for $12.99 ????
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The point of the transister is to have rapid fire on a triger not the switch .. so when the trigger is pull it rapid fires ..
just like the Pic 12F683 Rapid fire on Trigger..
I don'r get this do
part----------------------------radio shack #
TLC 555 timer-------------------276-1718
1.0uf tantalum capacitor--------272-1434
0.1uf ceramic disc capacitor----272-135
1K resistor(x2)---------------------271-1321
100k potomitor / trimmer----------271-284
ICPC board----------------------276-284
npn switching transistor--------276-1617
on/off spst toggle switch-------275-327
30 gage wire
Buy all this is way more than just buying a dual rapidfire kit from the store for $12.99 ????
it's the shipping that really kills you though. It's $12.99 + $5 for shipping, all of the supplies cost about the same at radioshack after shipping and stuff. and i can buy almost all of those parts at mouser.com for less than $1.00 each, and the resistors only costing about $0.05 each. Shipping would be an extra $5 to $7 tho. The problem with mouser is that it's hard to find the part your looking for, because of the vast amount of stuff they have. If i were a complete noob, i would buy from the shop, because i wouldn't wanna mess with getting the right parts for the job. Not to bash the shop or anything, as i have considered many times just buying that kit.
So i'd say, if your lazy, or don't know what your doing, buy it from the shop. If you want to save some money and know what your doing, go with mouser. If you want to get this done today, go to radioshack.
(i'm buying from mouser also because thats where i buy my craploads of 0603 leds :tup:)
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Oh, I didn't use transistors on mine and it worked okay... maybe I just screwed it up and it worked lol
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Oh, I didn't use transistors on mine and it worked okay... maybe I just screwed it up and it worked lol
kicks please dont direct people to change this mod on this board. do what you like with it elsewhere. I spent alot of time building, testing, and developing a tut for this.
if i bought them all at radioshack it would cost me about $60 for four controllers.
taylor, your math is incorrect, some peices you must buy in two or five packs, so the first one will cost $17.34, for a second add 4.77, for a third add 8.76, and for a fourth add another 4.17 so for four controllers the total radio shack cost is $35.04!!!!
FOR THE RECORD
1. this mod is for Rapid fire on your trigger, in order to create rapid fire on your triggers, you MUST use the transistor.
2. the switch is to turn the mod off and on.
3. this mod works on matrix and cg, with no alterations
4. it is cheaper, easier, and faster to install rapid fire if you go to the acid mods shop and buy a kit from there. but for the do it your selfer, this works very well
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FOR THE RECORD
1. this mod is for Rapid fire on your trigger, in order to create rapid fire on your triggers, you MUST use the transistor.
2. the switch is to turn the mod off and on.
3. this mod works on matrix and cg, with no alterations
4. it is cheaper, easier, and faster to install rapid fire if you go to the acid mods shop and buy a kit from there. but for the do it your selfer, this works very well
So you have to toggle between have the trigger itself to rapid or not? Why not just remove the on/off toggle from pin 3 and put a switch off one of the leads on the transistor? It shouldn't make any difference right? I ask this because I have a tactile switch from a previous mod that didn't work out and I find it to be silly to hold that switch and pull the trigger at the same time.
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You press once and it turns on, press again, it turns off. No need to hold it.
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Ah nifty. And for clarification (I just went to Radioshack) the product number you gave or the transistor (276-1617) lead me to a bundle of 15. There's 3 different (5 of each) transistors to choose from; 2N2222, 2N3904, and some 2N4401's. Which one works the best, and do they affect the oscillation rate enough to effect the potentiometer?
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Ah nifty. And for clarification (I just went to Radioshack) the product number you gave or the transistor (276-1617) lead me to a bundle of 15. There's 3 different (5 of each) transistors to choose from; 2N2222, 2N3904, and some 2N4401's. Which one works the best, and do they affect the oscillation rate enough to effect the potentiometer?
it dosnt matter they wont affect it that much, I used the 2n2222.
as for the switch question you asked before, this mod uses a on/off switch, you push it up (it stays up) and the mod is turned on, pull the trigger and you have rapid fire push the switch down (it will stay down) and the mod is turned off, pull the trigger and you will get one shot.
you can replace the on/off slide switch with a pushon/push off lathching switch, but it must hold position. the 99% of tactile switches are momentary, and will not work
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hey matt how many pulses does this vary between?
and do you recomend switching the output like you show in the diagram or switching the voltage surply? because otherwise the 555 is running constantly?
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hey matt how many pulses does this vary between?
and do you recomend switching the output like you show in the diagram or switching the voltage surply? because otherwise the 555 is running constantly?
I dont have a scope to measure the squarewave but I would guess somewhere from 2-50
as far as switching the voltage/output, it dont matter the switches I use are under rated to switch the power. the power is upward of 3v and the output is 1.3v. I have a feeling you are worried about power drain, and it is not an issue, we are now talking milliamps of power consumption. you will never notice a difference unless you were stress testing a modded agianst a nonmoded controller, and the difference would be minimal. look at anyother mod out there and there are NONE that kill power to the chip, they just deactivate it as I have done.
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thanks for the tut. i have a question, my local radioshack didnt have the timer or transistors, so i got a 555cn ic timer and a mps2222a npn transistor. will these work? thanks in advance.
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thanks for the tut. i have a question, my local radioshack didnt have the timer or transistors, so i got a 555cn ic timer and a mps2222a npn transistor. will these work? thanks in advance.
it should work??? radio shack should have the parts i listed. tell the guy at the desk to do his job and restock the bins. I make it a habit to tell them when I buy it to restock.
the dirfference is the operating voltage of the timmer. the tlc timmer is a low curent timmer. operates at a lower voltage. the caps may neeed to be modified. these chips respond to dirffernt variables applied to them (caps and resistors) if you build a cn chip the way I told you to It will rapid fire, but it will not be as consistant. it will be underpowered, in therory, it will work for a very short burst rate, then run out of power, making it fire sparatically.
my best advise is to go back to radio shack and get the right timmer. the transistor should be ok.but that timmer will cause problems. studering, etc..
this mod, if configured as i show, will give the same results every time you pull the trigger, no studdering or anything like that. consistancy is key, without it, you will get killed
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kicks please dont direct people to change this mod on this board. do what you like with it elsewhere. I spent alot of time building, testing, and developing a tut for this.
taylor, your math is incorrect, some peices you must buy in two or five packs, so the first one will cost $17.34, for a second add 4.77, for a third add 8.76, and for a fourth add another 4.17 so for four controllers the total radio shack cost is $35.04!!!!
FOR THE RECORD
1. this mod is for Rapid fire on your trigger, in order to create rapid fire on your triggers, you MUST use the transistor.
2. the switch is to turn the mod off and on.
3. this mod works on matrix and cg, with no alterations
4. it is cheaper, easier, and faster to install rapid fire if you go to the acid mods shop and buy a kit from there. but for the do it your selfer, this works very well
i can do each controller by going through mouser for about $5 or $6 going through mouser, including shipping
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i can do each controller by going through mouser for about $5 or $6 going through mouser, including shipping
WOW, that is great, $5 bucks. Very nice...Me likes...LOL
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I dont have a scope to measure the squarewave but I would guess somewhere from 2-50
as far as switching the voltage/output, it dont matter the switches I use are under rated to switch the power. the power is upward of 3v and the output is 1.3v. I have a feeling you are worried about power drain, and it is not an issue, we are now talking milliamps of power consumption. you will never notice a difference unless you were stress testing a modded agianst a nonmoded controller, and the difference would be minimal. look at anyother mod out there and there are NONE that kill power to the chip, they just deactivate it as I have done.
ah ok cheers.
I have access to a scope so I can test the wavelength when I get home from holz and build this.
I was also thinking to make it smt to fit it more easily (besides the trimpot).
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Okay so I made my own circuit for this awesome mod and it's all done. It looks like garabage because i resoldered the whole circuit because I had a mistake I couldn't locate. Here it is:
http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0632.JPG (http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0632.JPG)
http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0633.JPG (http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0633.JPG)
http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0636.JPG (http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0636.JPG)
http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0637.JPG (http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0637.JPG)
I had to click the axel on the motor and puck back the weight to cram the board in. Again, it's not pretty, but it's functional. And i hop to never open this controller again.
Note: I used a momentary switch instead of an on/off switch. I did this trying to make a rapid fire button, but as it turns out, i have to hold the switch down an pull the trigger to activate rapid fire. Witches on Left4Dead are a breeze to kill now!
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WOW, that is great, $5 bucks. Very nice...Me likes...LOL
thats if you do four controllers at once. it might be a little more, but i just ordered about 50 smd leds (different colors) and the parts for this rapid fire and it cost me about $17 after shipping.
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Okay so I made my own circuit for this awesome mod and it's all done. It looks like garabage because i resoldered the whole circuit because I had a mistake I couldn't locate. Here it is:
http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0632.JPG (http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0632.JPG)
http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0633.JPG (http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0633.JPG)
http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0636.JPG (http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0636.JPG)
http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0637.JPG (http://imodmuch.googlepages.com/IMG_0637.JPG)
I had to click the axel on the motor and puck back the weight to cram the board in. Again, it's not pretty, but it's functional. And i hop to never open this controller again.
Note: I used a momentary switch instead of an on/off switch. I did this trying to make a rapid fire button, but as it turns out, i have to hold the switch down an pull the trigger to activate rapid fire. Witches on Left4Dead are a breeze to kill now!
K313k,
as I stated in a pm this mod is for rapid fire on the trigger. to make rapid fire on a button, take the wire from pin #3 run it to your button, then to the center trigger pin and thats it. push button for rapid fire, push trigger for normal fire. this will eliminate the switch and the transistor.
I designed this to be more natural. with it on a button, it is just akward for me, but to each thier own
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how would you rig up rapid fire on both triggers with this?
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how would you rig up rapid fire on both triggers with this?
well, thats a new question worthy of answering. LOL
one way is to just build another chip for the other side. I garantee this will work
a second, and this is just theretical, would be to take pin three and solder an extra wire to it so you have two output wire, add another switch so they could work independatly and use the same transistor method for the left trigger as you did for the right. not sure how this will work though I will test when I get time. I have a feeling it may create too much drain on the 555, thus creating sparatic fire rates.
I would suggest using the first option, I know it will work!!! and if you used two 555 circuts, you could have two different fire rates... not sure how that helps but yea, you get the point.
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i might try wiring both triggers to the same wire then
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i might try wiring both triggers to the same wire then
just make sure to think through what you want to do, I would want to turn them off independantly, so when I am on cod or something, its not rapid aim and rapid fire. I will test when I get home tonight to see how this works. like I said I am not very comfortable with using the same chip/output for both triggers. I could be over thinking though.
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just make sure to think through what you want to do, I would want to turn them off independantly, so when I am on cod or something, its not rapid aim and rapid fire. I will test when I get home tonight to see how this works. like I said I am not very comfortable with using the same chip/output for both triggers. I could be over thinking though.
after checking around, i noticed that people made a small separate transistor board for the left trigger that just connects to the main 555 board.
also, i got my rapid fire finished last night, and when i installed it and tested it, it didn't work that well. i can pull the trigger faster myself, and it was incredibly unreliable, sometimes it would work when i pulled the trigger and sometimes it wouldn't. Usually it just started randomly firing without me even pulling the trigger. so i bought all the parts from radioshack needed to build a second one, but can someone explain why that happened? did i burn out the 555 or transistor when soldering? I also bought a socket for the next one i'm building, so im not soldering directly onto the 555 chip itself. but i'd like to know how i can fix the first board also.
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also, i got my rapid fire finished last night, and when i installed it and tested it, it didn't work that well. i can pull the trigger faster myself, and it was incredibly unreliable, sometimes it would work when i pulled the trigger and sometimes it wouldn't. Usually it just started randomly firing without me even pulling the trigger. so i bought all the parts from radioshack needed to build a second one, but can someone explain why that happened? did i burn out the 555 or transistor when soldering? I also bought a socket for the next one i'm building, so im not soldering directly onto the 555 chip itself. but i'd like to know how i can fix the first board also.
I have seen a similar board like this, with a few differences. and when using the 555 on a wireless controller it tends not to work very well on low batt. It will work best leaving a plug and play kit in at all times.
By the way modded Matt very nice setup. Props!
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after checking around, i noticed that people made a small separate transistor board for the left trigger that just connects to the main 555 board.
also, i got my rapid fire finished last night, and when i installed it and tested it, it didn't work that well. i can pull the trigger faster myself, and it was incredibly unreliable, sometimes it would work when i pulled the trigger and sometimes it wouldn't. Usually it just started randomly firing without me even pulling the trigger. so i bought all the parts from radioshack needed to build a second one, but can someone explain why that happened? did i burn out the 555 or transistor when soldering? I also bought a socket for the next one i'm building, so im not soldering directly onto the 555 chip itself. but i'd like to know how i can fix the first board also.
make sure to use the parts listed. pay close attention to the type of 555 timer. there are actually many diferent kinds of 555's, radio shack carries three. this would account for the unreliability, as for firing without pulling the trigger, thats not posible. you have something shorted. does the screen shake when it happens? check for bridges on the trigger pins, also check for solder splashes.
if you did it correctly, there is no way you can pull the trigger faster!! just not posible. use the pot to adjust the rate of fire.
the chips, as well as the res, and caps are heat sinsitive. make sure not to over heat when soldering. good call on the socket!! post pics if you can.
I hate to tell you this, but nobody has had the results you have. I have worked through pms and on the board to help people get this right, I am sorry to say, you have done something wrong. check the part list #'s check all wiring, try agian
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well i built two, and neither worked, there aren't any shorts and i know i got the right parts because i had the tut pulled up on my phone while i was getting the parts at radioshack. so idk what to do, i've already sunk about $30 into this project and i'm not too excited about building another.
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well i built two, and neither worked, there aren't any shorts and i know i got the right parts because i had the tut pulled up on my phone while i was getting the parts at radioshack. so idk what to do, i've already sunk about $30 into this project and i'm not too excited about building another.
send me your mailing address im a pm and I will send you one that works correctly. I have two on my desk I need to test one, but the other has been tested and works very well, if you buy the parts in bulk its alot cheaper.
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well the fun part about it is building the thing, but i'm gonna pick up a breadboard and try to build it like that, maybe i'm messing up because of overheating the components.
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well the fun part about it is building the thing, but i'm gonna pick up a breadboard and try to build it like that, maybe i'm messing up because of overheating the components.
watch the polarity of the cap at pins one and two. the cap should have a small + on it
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watch the polarity of the cap at pins one and two. the cap should have a small + on it
okay, and the positive side connects to what pin?
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positive goes to pin two, I thought you read the tut??? it is listed on step #4 of building the chip.???? I took alot of time to spell this all out and make it easy to follow. please READ THE TUT!!
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positive goes to pin two, I thought you read the tut??? it is listed on step #4 of building the chip.???? I took alot of time to spell this all out and make it easy to follow. please READ THE TUT!!
actually i got it last night, its all working now. but i think the problem was my soldering iron, its a 25 watter, so i'm gonna have to pick up a 15 watt soldering iron at radioshack before i complete this.
Heres a video
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1071801761812 (http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1071801761812)
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yea, you need a 15 watt iron. also, get one that you can unscrew the tip and put a new one in. radio shack has one with three tips, one of which being a fine point. it is the best for the price of $15. I am glad you got it going. no face book so i cant see the vid. but congrats. did you leave the pot in or out?
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yea, you need a 15 watt iron. also, get one that you can unscrew the tip and put a new one in. radio shack has one with three tips, one of which being a fine point. it is the best for the price of $15. I am glad you got it going. no face book so i cant see the vid. but congrats. did you leave the pot in or out?
i left the pot in, and i probably will when it gets installed into a controller
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if you only play certian games you can adjust the pot to where you like it measure the resistance and replace it with the desired resistor. thats all the pot is is a variable resistor.
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so after studying how transistors work, i think i understand how this works(somewhat).
and from what i understand, this little mod i made for dual trigger rapid fire should work, ill test it tonight. but here it is.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fphotos-ak-snc1%2Fv2115%2F223%2F92%2F1429176564%2Fn1429176564_30219066_8475.jpg&hash=46a718fcb826660b3c63ec18a7172f912041800e)
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this little mod i made for dual trigger rapid fire should work, ill test it tonight. but here it is.
well, thats a new question worthy of answering. LOL
one way is to just build another chip for the other side. I garantee this will work
a second, and this is just theretical, would be to take pin three and solder an extra wire to it so you have two output wire, add another switch so they could work independatly and use the same transistor method for the left trigger as you did for the right. not sure how this will work though I will test when I get time. I have a feeling it may create too much drain on the 555, thus creating sparatic fire rates.
I would suggest using the first option, I know it will work!!! and if you used two 555 circuts, you could have two different fire rates... not sure how that helps but yea, you get the point.
Dude, for you to say that is not fair. maybe try the word we, or something like that. All you did was draw what I told you to do a few posts back...."the mod I made"....read back through the troubles you had putting this together.I dont want prais or anything like that, I just dont want you taking credit for my work. have fun, dont ask for anymore help
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yeah, i made the mod (modification) to the circuit diagram. im not taking credit for anything from you, and everyone can see that i just added some extra stuff to the diagram. and i don't remember you ever saying anything about adding another transistor. I'm just trying to add some input, i did hours of research trying to find how to do a dual trigger mod for this. After i couldn't find anything, i went and tried to understand how the 555 timer works.
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please don't flame me for posting modifications to your mod. This is for all the people that want a sort of indicator, This way when rapid fre its on the xbox X home button thing lights up. Just a few simple changes.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi249.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg221%2FGhoSt-Death%2Fxboxled.png&hash=dc83ccf65bdca67d7b5b5ba7f111b649cc35b4fd)
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Sweet! i've been wondering how add an led indicator to this!
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Sweet! i've been wondering how add an led indicator to this!
np glad it helped someone, remember this is adding on a seperate LED though not using one of the originals.
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np glad it helped someone, remember this is adding on a seperate LED though not using one of the originals.
although, you probably could use one of the original leds pretty easily right?
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although, you probably could use one of the original leds pretty easily right?
Im not familier with the 360 controller but if there is 3v between the orig led ground and the positive mike spot then probably. wouldn't trust it if you were that player and the led was getting two +sorces.
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I am not sure you can dump the voltage from the led like that. I need to test this,
that being said, the drawing you made, the LED will allways be on, the switch should be on the other side of the splice. if you are going to do this make sure the switch used is vated +3v
all mods that include an indicator supply more than one + voltage source to the led, and will have no affect on the player status.
your initiative is very comendable, but I think you need to look further into this idea.
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but I think you need to look further into this idea.
well of course, this is just the brainstorming phase, next we'll do some testing, and if it doesn't work, then oh well. we can either get it to work, or drop the idea altogether. But i see what your saying now, that switch is connected after the led, i didn't notice that before.
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taylor, no worries buddy. work away!! how did the duel triggers work? this is really an obsolete mod anyway, when you get fed up with dealing with the limitations of the 555 look at my post here:https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=22727.0 (https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=22727.0) and get started with a pic
put the switch first.**MAKE SURE ITS RATED FOR +3V*** be carefull with this though. I dont know alot about leds, but I am not sure about this method. do leds go to ground? like that? curent usually flows through the led, if you test the normal controller leds, the forward side reads 3v, but the discharge is 2.3v??
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,
I am not sure you can dump the voltage from the led like that. I need to test this,
that being said, the drawing you made, the LED will allways be on, the switch should be on the other side of the splice. if you are going to do this make sure the switch used is vated +3v
all mods that include an indicator supply more than one + voltage source to the led, and will have no affect on the player status.
your initiative is very comendable, but I think you need to look further into this idea.
lol :censored:, Thanks for pointing out the switch... er a drawo. I did it right tho cause it works on my controller.
btw my way wasn't on the controller leds, mine used a extra 10mm red (10,000mcd) mounted in the X globe thingy.
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thanks man made it in 20 minran out of wire so has to use speaker wire to test it before i sold it and on wednesday i get more wire from radio shack
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try this for indicator, I am working on new leds for the 12f683 mod, and put this together fast on my desk. have not tested gameplay, but it is safe and works fine on my bench
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo142/moddedmatt/555Trigger-2.png[/img]](https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2F555Trigger-2.png&hash=ddc5a1984cf4203eb0c45a93f9a0877f1e9207ed) (http://[IMG)
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this is my indicator method on the mod.
http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=1d5Mp7Ed71c (http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=1d5Mp7Ed71c)
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very nice job. I did basically the same (the red leds in the guide button) this weeknd, what a pain that was!!!!!
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Hey, nice tut. Only one problem though I can't find the ICPC board. Will this one do ?
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Frsk.imageg.net%2Fgraphics%2Fproduct_images%2FpRS1C-2266446w345.jpg&hash=2b5ce18ac654aa0cd7103b55cd8eb89bb187fdf3)
and does it have to be a board like that could I use one like this ?
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.altronics.com.au%2Fimages%2Fprod%2FH%2FH0714.gif&hash=a95af99e124dea6bd31fc9958b698cdf30b68aee)
Thanks
Max
EDIT:
Sorry for bumping this. I didn't realize :S I got to this thread through a link, I didn't check that dates.
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get vero board and cut the copper down the middle.
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Actually cut it in half, so there are two pieces ? How come I need a board. In other tuts they just glued the chip in the dead bug position and soldered wires to the pins and then on the controller PCB.
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max, no problem on the bump I still monitor this thread, the first pic of the board you posted is the one you want to use, that is a two pack, they are stuck together like that for packaging, in the very center you see it is kind of purfurated. build the chip in the center of one of those boards, and then cut it all down as small as posible after all the parts are assembled.
as far as whey to use the board, and not just glue the chip in and run wires, this mod is done using old logic parts, stuff you can get from a local radio shack. other chips you are used to seeing in the deadbug position, those are programed chips, these are 555 timers, the timer must have capasitors and resistors to make it do what you want, different cap, diferent affect. where as with the pic chips you get from the AM shop use a program to make the chip do what you want.
this is all outdated tech, but it is easier for beginers to do and understand, plus you wont have to order anything, everything for this mod is available localy.
another reason for the board is the timers, caps, and resistors are more heat sensitive, and the board acts like a heat sheld. I done this without the board and soldered everything just to the chip, I don't recomed this though, it is VERY hard to do correctly, and Very easy to heat damage the components
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Awesome, thank you for the detailed response. It will be a while before I get the supplies (school just started) hopefully when I'm done, I'll post a few pics and it in action.
Thanks again
Max
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can you post a real picture because i can read the code
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can you post a real picture because i can read the code
what are you talking about? what code? these are timers, hence the title which reads 555 rapid fire. a 555 timer has no code, it has no memory. it is timer, it pulses as fast as the components attached to it tell it to.
I will take a good pic when I get home with my digital camera if you think that will help, but I dont understand your request
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2FModdedMatt018.jpg&hash=fbf60f9944cd7ef40cbdd89a4408be78adfd6c6d)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2Fnew009.jpg&hash=2df778c9dbd1724a160bff56828b0a394b6d9900)
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can you still use this method on cod 5 waw just wondering before i go buy the stuff and this is the most helpful mod site i have seen lots of props
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can you still use this method on cod 5 waw just wondering before i go buy the stuff and this is the most helpful mod site i have seen lots of props
I belive so when you turn down the pot to near its lowest
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what would be the lowest
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what would be the lowest
not sure on exact fire rate but I would say lowest is about 2-6 pulses per second, I think cod waw has a cap at 9 pulses per second.
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thanks
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here is the deal, the first pic is of an unfinished chip, no leeds
the second chip is one I installed as I stated in the begining once you find your desiered fire rate you can swap the pot for a resistor. I have 7 controllers now. two with this 555 mod, one for each game, the others get rapid fire from a pic. with other various mods.
what is your deal. this mod works, well. what are you trying to prove?
If you cant get your mod to work it is due to your skills in following directions (or lack of) not my design, this 555 is probably the best you will find. and I am not sure if I can write the tut any more clearly.
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i not trying to prove anything but does port 2 and port 7 for the potomitor
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Maybe if you talked in english like this forum's rules state, we'd be able to help LOL
You're just typing random words, you're not even asking him anything.
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:help: for pin 7 do you solder the wire to the port or the resistor for the pot
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...What?
Oh it's potentiometer, not potomiter. Potomiters don't exist.
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well it works, the problem i am having is it works for a little then it just quits. most i got out of it was for two games. i take it a part look at the wires, i dont see why it not working mess with it for a little bit and it starts working again its weird can pinpoint the problem im stumped :faint: any suggestions would be great!!!!! very good instructions for assembly i might add
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well it works, the problem i am having is it works for a little then it just quits. most i got out of it was for two games. i take it a part look at the wires, i dont see why it not working mess with it for a little bit and it starts working again its weird can pinpoint the problem im stumped :faint: any suggestions would be great!!!!! very good instructions for assembly i might add
sounds like you didn't get a low current 555 timer, rather a original ttl one. You need a tlc.
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thanks
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ya got the tlc let me be more specific it works then stops like when you pull the trigger nothing happens turn it off and single shot like normal i thought maybe it was over heating let it sit still the same i take it apart mess around with the wires for a little bit no specific one yet and it works it worked the most for two to three games when it works works perfect
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ya got the tlc let me be more specific it works then stops like when you pull the trigger nothing happens turn it off and single shot like normal i thought maybe it was over heating let it sit still the same i take it apart mess around with the wires for a little bit no specific one yet and it works it worked the most for two to three games when it works works perfect
hmm, not sure then. You sure the pot isn't turned up to high, as it will fire unpredictably and not at a steady rate if you have it up above what the game is capped at.
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it doesnt fire at all not periodically i dont know either its weird thanks for trying to help
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tuck,
please verify you have all the exact parts listed in the tut on page one.
can you take clear pics of the chip and trigger point?
it sounds like you have wrong components ie, wrong capasitors, wrong resistors
it is very strange, indeed.
seems like the chip is just shutting down, which could be caused by many things.
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i got all the parts listed triple checked them also when putting it together triple checked that maybe im not getting a good ground im going to check that mod is great :drunk:when it works
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do you have an ohm meter? wheck what is coming out pin #3
test for continuity, between the controlers ground, and pin #8
test for continuity, between the controlers positive and pin #1
test the pot, make sure it is giving variable resistance.
if the chip has good ground, and has good supply voltage, and no output it is most likely the pot.
these parts are all heat sinsitive, you may have damaged something during assembly
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these parts are all heat sinsitive, you may have damaged something during assembly
That is what happened to me, i damaged the transistor, so the first two circuits i built didn't work, until i got a new soldering iron. Go to radio-shack, buy a 16 pin ic socket, put the chip and the transistor in the socket, that way you don't risk burning out either of these with the heat from your iron. Also, if you don't have a low wattage iron, go to radioshack and buy the 15 watt iron, it'll cost you about $9.
IC socket: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062606
15 watt iron: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062728
It is frustrating when it doesn't work, but keep trying! you'll get it sooner or later, good luck! :D
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good call taylor, I did not even think of the transistor.
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:psp: yes i do i will give that a try thanks for trying to help me :victory:
like today it would work and as soon as i put the controller back together nothing take it apart mess with it works left it apart for an hour put it together nothing its either the wire to the switch or the one next to cause you move wire and it works resoldered it still didnt help but i will check it with the meter
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thanks
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I made this, hope this is what you want.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi43.tinypic.com%2F11qrcqw.png&hash=5c51bddd6dee857a6ccd4d0cad4b0570e7fbd996)
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and what npn transistor do i use 2N2222 transistors 2N3904 transistors 2N4401 transistors
:beg: :beg: :beg: :beg: :help:
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I used 2n2222 cas I had some lying round and they worked.
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thanks for all your help im just going to make a new one i think the pot went out it only fires one shot now i tested the pot and i get the same reading on both sides of it
thanks again :tup:
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there ya go.
I will revise each step of the tut with a pic to help clarify everything this weekend.
as for the transistor, I need to look when I get home, but I beleive it was the 2n2222 switching type.
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hey were do i solder the wires for the pot i know is pin 2 and 7 http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv177/pimpchryz/ModdedMatt018-2.jpg
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it dont matter pin #2 and pin #7 pick the closest open hole to the chip. I am starting to build a new one now for the tut update.
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witch mod is better a9cusoms adjustable rapid fire on trigger or acidmods co5 sleeper
Edit:
will this board work
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi681.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv177%2Fpimpchryz%2FHPIM0486.jpg&hash=02c9727879c50ce915a3ee995640797701d68b4d)
GhoSt: Please dont double post, just edit the first one :). link images with the (https://www.acidmods.com/forum/Themes/default/images/bbc/img.gif) button
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im not totally sure, but i think the 555 chip mod works with any board type.
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that is the alien, it is not matrix nor is it CG. I have heard of these, but never seen one, All I can tell you is it works with matrix and it also works the same with CG. I would like to tell you if it will work with that, but I can never find one.
*****2/14/09 pics added to the tut*****
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that is the alien, it is not matrix nor is it CG. I have heard of these, but never seen one, All I can tell you is it works with matrix and it also works the same with CG. I would like to tell you if it will work with that, but I can never find one.
*****2/14/09 pics added to the tut*****
how do you define the alien, because that looks exactly like mine and mine works.
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:drunk: :w00t: well just got done making a new one works perfect so far i must of got something to hot i dont know but thanks to everyone that tried to help me :#1: and those new pics will help out others alot good job matt :clap: acid mods is the leaders in modding tech and admins also very quick to reply to your ?'s i thank you :hifive:
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does anybody have a video of it
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does anybody have a video of it
a vid of it working???
heres the vid of mine
http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=1d5Mp7Ed71c (http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=1d5Mp7Ed71c)
soz havn't mastered embeding so that will have to do.
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will this work http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062596 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062596)
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will this work http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062596 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062596)
no it must be the tlc555 (low curent)http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062595 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062595)
how do you define the alien, because that looks exactly like mine and mine works.
that is not a microsoft product, look closely.
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i can 100% say it works. these guys know their stuff ! dont have a vid to show mine, but i wouldn't waste my time posting here if it didn't. just get the stuff matt posted that you need follow the easy instructions made even easier by matt with the new pics and there you go you got a modded controller :rofl: if you have any problems someone here will help you. ghost and matt are very quick and smart to reply to your ?'s :#1:
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how cum you solder port 3 for the pot (https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2F5-1.jpg&hash=63567bf8a572c385da1168c7f3ad5621af128cc1)
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how cum you solder port 3 for the pot
ok you got me, first off the picture in your post dont exist anymore, you made me look closely at my pics and it is so easy to make a mistake, but if you look at the pic you posted, it is not pin #3 that the mistake occured, I accededntally soldered one end of the pot to pin #6 instead of seven, the other side wnet to pin #2, that never changed. remember what I said about sober hands LOL... the verbage has allways been correct....pics are now all correct....I will follow up with an insatall, but the wife has had enough after this weekend. I did 4 other pic mods, ontop of this
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(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi681.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv177%2Fpimpchryz%2FHPIM0496.jpg%3Ft%3D1234931112&hash=a1d703aadc712309db31ed3405fcf3df36283b58) will this pc board work (https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi681.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fvv177%2Fpimpchryz%2FHPIM0495.jpg%3Ft%3D1234931227&hash=2998b9f435387c9d17945869240d456d3d2b196f)
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that could work you are just gona have to bridge alot of pads to make rows.
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how do i bridge alot of pads to make rows
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i would call differ radio shacks in your area and ask if they have a ic pc board.cause at one in my area didnt have them and another one did. that type you have there doesnt have a contact area for one hole row. lets just say like pin one there would be a contact area through that hole row just for pin one.look at the pics matt has you can see the difference between that one and the one you have.when i went to get my parts they said there is no such number as the one matt said to get so i got this one
Dual General-Purpose IC PC Board
Model: 276-159 | Catalog #: 276-159
cost is $2.49 it might be easier just to take that one back and get this one :cool:
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that board will work its just requires more skill, the one tuck listed is for beginers and I recomend you use that, or if you dont consider yourself a beginer, and want a real task, build the mod without the bread board.. be careful with the heat though.
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does this mod work with the older style matrix controllers? does any 555 mod work through the right trigger or will you have to upgrade to a pic?
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this mod works with all controllers
no, not all 555 setups work through the trigger, but this one does. if you want rapid fire on a button you can do that too, but some things need to change, let me know if this is what you want and I will relist it for you, but I think I listed the button mod on page two?
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I have done a dozen or so rapid fire with button. I could not get this mod to work, i am going to go try again, i dont think i hooked up to controller correctly. I am a little confused about the ground wires.
I am using a matrix if that makes a difference
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got it to work thanks for tut really easy. used a different controller, other controller ground lead was broken.
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just as a reference if you want rapid fire on a external button, here is the diagram
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi249.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg221%2FGhoSt-Death%2Fonbutton-1.png&hash=235ec4744b52b703e04a717388384fb9ebbc8b03)
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got it to work thanks for tut really easy. used a different controller, other controller ground lead was broken.
what do you mean the ground leed was broken, it should be very easy to fix. hold you irron on the solder puddle and push the battery leed up from the bottom. it was alot easier than it looked. if you made this mod, you should be able to fix it.
just as a reference if you want rapid fire on a external button, here is the diagram
Ghost, please revise your pic here to add the 1k resistor somewhere between the trigger pin and the chip. also, if you use a 2mm tact switch, you can fit it in under the trigger, there the pot arm and the acctual trigger come together if you glue the tact under there, when you pull the trigger half way, it is normal, but if you pull it all the way you feel a slight click and get rapid fire....I think this qualifies for the term "sleeper" LOL...
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wow I cut out the resistor with the transistor, pic updated.
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works on matrix cause thats what i have and still going strong.tried it on cod 4&5, gw2,rb6v,halo3.not as rapid on halo as it is on other games unless maybe you use a brute shot all the time :rofl:
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works on matrix cause thats what i have and still going strong.tried it on cod 4&5, gw2,rb6v,halo3.not as rapid on halo as it is on other games unless maybe you use a brute shot all the time :rofl:
this is due to halo's programing, the best you can hope for in halo with any mod is increased acuracy.
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i just did the mod, however it fires at about the same speed that i can fire. i tried adjusting the pot but it only gets worse. i tried it on cod3, gta4, halo3, graw2.. Also, i changed the position of the switch so it wouldent draw power constantly and i added an led. i have an old style board with the tp19.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi7.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy284%2Fziploker%2Funtitledd.jpg&hash=fc39aaa88e927eccdeae34ca8b4c96f5107b0a95)
anyideas on whats wrong?
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I am using Matrix style boards and the rapid fire is not as fast as other mods i have made.
I have not used 10k before and it seems a bit over the top
used a combined OHMs of a little under 3k for old
New, i used a just 1k
I know theres math involved and just let me know if i could use lower ohms to incresase Rapid Fire Speed.
S A F E T Y D A N C E
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so by increasing the resistance, the pulse would be faster?
are you refering to the resister right before the base of the trasistor? or the resistor on pins 7&8 of the 555chip
thanks
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This mod uses 1k not 10k sorry
Matrix and CG use different voltages
If there is a lower ohm resistance than the pulsing would increase i think or the other way around
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ok enough speculation,
the rate of fire is adjusted by the resistance between pins two and seven. we have inserted a pot here for a variable rate of fire. if it is only firing slow, your pot is not working. please check all part numbers on the front page, and be sure you are using the low current 555 timer.
dont change the values of the resistors in pin 7&8 nor the values of the capasitors. many people have built this mod with lots of success, I hate to say this and dont want to sound rude, but you need to check your work
another problem, I am unsure of, is that you may be robbing the timer of too much power with the led. I never intended this to have an led like that, it really should not matter, but its one of those things
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I tryed the mod with a NE555IC and it worked with the matrix but not the CG
i have like 50 of them so i guess ill have to buy some TLC from wherever
first i thought it was my caps cuz i bought new ones and there newer and smaller but 100pf is what it is
thanks for tut, the NE555IC works with my other mods so i was a little confused.
my pots are better than yours
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I would ned to look up the ne555ic, this runs at 5v that is your problem. I am sure you can get this to work, yes you will need differect caps for that chip and there is alot more work. even though I started with two other 555's and I can get them to work, but they use too much power too quickly, thus creating unreliable sparatic affects. with the 5v chips they work fine for the first half clip or so and then studder, if you only use in short bursts you should be ok.
as for the pot, cool, it just needs to be in the same range, this is what controls the fire rate. this mod changes the way the chip pulses, not just the output to the controller.
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OK read the WHOLE forum and saw one guy get close to the problem i am having but not the same....... first props to matt for the tut!!! i followed everything right!! got all the right stuff and put it all in the right place.... i only added with what that guy did by making his 4player led light up as a indicator..(which flashes fast and changes as i adjust my Pot?)is it suppose to do that?
anyway.. the mod works great for the first pull of the trigger (on COD waw) but after the first pull it really slows down to as fast as i can pull the trigger....?
did i blow a resister or a cap? i know my pot works the switch works and i get power through the chip and test like prevusly stated in this forum with my ohms meter.
please someone help me MATT or Ghost or someone... i am pretty good the electronics and know my way around a soldering iron so i don't think i fried anything but who knows..
Thanks MUCH!!
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oh and when i turn my controller off and leave the rapid fire switch on the 4th player led stays on barely, on almost not visible but on.... do i have a short?
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well welcome to acidmods, and the world of modding, here nothing seems to go as planned ..LOL
lets see what we can do,
ok first off, I did not design this to have an led indicator, that was added by other members, so please explain how you wired the light, it sounds like it is a splice coming from terminal #3 of the 555. that is why it is blinking, because terminal #3 pulsates to simulate rapid fire. when you adjust the pot, it pulses slower, or faster if that’s what your light is doing, I would assume that is normal.
as for the cod5 issue, this is also another common problem, COD5 has a limit built into the game to make it do exactly what you are describing. this is normal also. has anyone confirmed this working in COD5??? I was supposed to test, but have not had a chance, spent the whole weekend testing terminal leads, I would suggest turning the pot as slow as it will go and trying that, turn it up slightly until you get "The Cap" as it is known in the community. the cap will let you fire one clip as fast as you can then slow you way down, this cap is active until the next match starts. so it may take some time to find where it needs to be set. once you get the pot adjusted correctly, I would put a scratch or line in the controller so you know where the pot should be adjusted to. and I would do the same for cod4 (will be in another location)
as far as the light staying on..this is odd..once again, I need to know how the light was connected. if you are using a matrix, this is going to happen, you would need another power source to stop it. the two volt switched power supply wont run the 555 properly. if you are using CG, it may just need to push any residual voltage left in the capacitors through before it will stop. or it could be seeping through your switch if you wired the light to the power supply.
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WOW ok thanks for the fast reply :hifive: :hifive:.....controller type... umm its the one with D21 not D1 and it has the TP3 on the back. i think its the matrix?
So from your reply this is all normal? adjust my pot to the cap, too high it will only work for the first pull, too low and it will be slow.... and it will only work for the first match anyway? hhhmmm :faint:
the wire that is going to the 4th player led is spliced into the wire between 1k resister and the base of the transistor... i attached it to the led on the top side... the forum said attach to the bottom of it but when i did it didn't work, thats why it's attached to the top part... i hope its the (-) end of it..
so i guess i should just screw it together and call it done?
you think if i get just disconnect the wire that goes to the led i'll be fine?? i know you've stated that you didn't intend the mod to have a led in it, i just thought it took such low power that it wouldn't make a difference, but what do i know! :dntknw:
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oh and if i don't change the power source will it stay on until it drains the battery... unless of i just pull the battery off after each use.
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(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi7.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy284%2Fziploker%2Funtitledd.jpg&hash=fc39aaa88e927eccdeae34ca8b4c96f5107b0a95)
pic was drawn by ziploker
try it like he did with the switch at the main power source.
yes if you leave it as is, it will drain the power source
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I am looking for SMALLLLL switches that turn the rapid fire through the trigger on/off.
I have used a toggle on/off switch and was looking for smaller, possible illuminated on/off switches.
I have small momentary tactile switches that are perfect.
So i was wondering if you could turn a momentary switch into a steady on/off switch?
Probably would be easier to use a pic, but if i could use a momentary switch that would be cool.
THROUGH THE TRIGGER PLZ
Here are some push buttons i was thinking would look koolaid
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lY2eBK732sA/ScB87JnLLDI/AAAAAAAAACk/uJNrpZDV22M/s144/sweet%20tommy%20button%20maybe.jpg
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you can't use a momentary switch if you want rapid fire on the trigger...not with the 555 mod. there is noting to read and register the button press.. this thread we have spoke of getting rid of the toggle switch and using a monmetary, but then the rapid fire is on the button and not the trigger.
a push on/push off, push button would work. (it must be latching) the package will say push on/off. but they dont come in alot of options at rat shack.
sorry to say that to do what you want you need to use a programed pic. which is another thread
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hey matit if i adjust it to far it doesn't work do they have a pot were to can adjust it all the way and still shot fast
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there are many types of pots out there, the problem is the name of this mod, radio shack parts, a digital pot or something along those lines will give you more fine tuning, but I dont think you will find at radio shack. look at other electronic spots you need to stay around 100K radio shack has this one http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062308, (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062308,) but it only comes as 10K from there. I posted the pic to push you in the right direction. good luck
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This mod works perfectly for cod 5 i'm still using it and as far as the pot there is nothing wrong with the one specified.you have to find the right adjustment for cod 5. i marked mine on the controller for highest possible spot for cod 5 which is about half way.i recommend marking it so if you want to turn it all the way up for cod 4 you can and turn it back down when you go back to play cod 5. start a private match and keep adjusting till you find the sweet spot. if the patch kicks in cause you got it to high you must end the game and start again for the patch to turn off. that sounds like the problem some of you are having. it takes some time but once you get it marked you are good to go and you wont have to go through all of that again. hope this helped some one.and why would you need a led to tell you its on thats what the switch is for you turn it on its on turn it off its off :psp:
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This mod works perfectly for cod 5 i'm still using it and as far as the pot there is nothing wrong with the one specified.you have to find the right adjustment for cod 5. i marked mine on the controller for highest possible spot for cod 5 which is about half way.i recommend marking it so if you want to turn it all the way up for cod 4 you can and turn it back down when you go back to play cod 5. start a private match and keep adjusting till you find the sweet spot. if the patch kicks in cause you got it to high you must end the game and start again for the patch to turn off. that sounds like the problem some of you are having. it takes some time but once you get it marked you are good to go and you wont have to go through all of that again. hope this helped some one.and why would you need a led to tell you its on thats what the switch is for you turn it on its on turn it off its off :psp:
well said tuck..I am glad to hear it is confirmed working on WAW. I thought it would, but havent gotten around to testing. been busy working with PIC chips.
thanks agian for the feedback.
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Ya no problem :tup: i gotta say this is the best place to find any of your modding needs very good support staff and attention to detail :drunk: looking to get into the chips just havn't time :confused: but i think this mod works very well and it works on a wide array of games lots of people i know and on xbox live have asked where i found this and i tell them (oh you didn't ACIDMODS son) :hifive:
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hey matt , i read this post from page 1 - 5 ... i really need some help with a 555 timer i did following this video on youtube (HD) Rapid Fire Chip for Xbox 360 how to (part 1) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ny9D6BDD4C4#ws-lq-lq2-hq-hd)
i amde a post about it ... can you please help me out ... and i might try this build later today THANKS!!
https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=29898.new#new (https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=29898.new#new)
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can u please add pics for these steps
1) cut back pc board as close as you can
2) remove right rumble pack and hallow out controller to make sure nothing pinches any wires, glue in chip
3) run the pin eight wire to the mic's supply voltage
4) run the pin one wire to the battery ground
5) drill two 1/4 inch holes between the d pad and the right stick in the top of the controller, they should be on top of each other, then connect them creating a slot of the on/off slide switch. use common sense here and make sure you are putting this slot where the switch will fit.
6) run the wire from pin three to one leg of the switch
7) run a new wire from the switch to a 1k res and into the base pin of the npn transistor
8) solder te collector of the transistor to the middle trigger pin
9) solder the base to the bottom trigger pin.
IM SO CONFUSED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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sorry guys i am on vacation wont ge back till monday i am nw typing on my phone..i cant see the vid yet and definatly wont be able to post new pics till i get home maybe ghost or tuck can help get you going in my absence...
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i just need clarification on these steps
1) cut back pc board as close as you can
2) remove right rumble pack and hallow out controller to make sure nothing pinches any wires, glue in chip
3) run the pin eight wire to the mic's supply voltage
4) run the pin one wire to the battery ground
5) drill two 1/4 inch holes between the d pad and the right stick in the top of the controller, they should be on top of each other, then connect them creating a slot of the on/off slide switch. use common sense here and make sure you are putting this slot where the switch will fit.
6) run the wire from pin three to one leg of the switch
7) run a new wire from the switch to a 1k res and into the base pin of the npn transistor
8) solder te collector of the transistor to the middle trigger pin
9) solder the base to the bottom trigger pin.
they are very confusing
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sorry for the spam in ur thread but .... do i have to use a 15v iron ... i have a 30v one can i use that one ... just being extra careful i dnt burn any pieces or should i buy a http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062606 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062606)
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yes 30v should be fine, just make sure you dont hold heat on for tooo long. also dont double post use the (https://www.acidmods.com/forum/Themes/outline_20rc1/images/buttons/modify.gif) button, thanks
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(i did all my hot gluing last )
1)cut the pc board as far back to your soldering points as you can without touching them. i carefully used side cutters
2)unplug the rumble pack and cut out the parts that hold it in place. i used a razor blade. i suggest putting the chip in and putting the the top on making sure nothing is pinching before hot gluing.
3&4)look at the pics provided
5) i put my switch on the right side in the grey part about a inch in so i could turn it on & off with my thumb doing some more trimming with razor. use common sense here and make sure you are putting this slot where the switch will fit.
6)look at the pics provided
7,8&9) on the packaging of the npn transistor it will tell you which one is the base,collector & emitter. step nine i soldered the emitter to bottom trigger pin like it showed in the pic
its always best to read the step your on a few times then look at the pic go back and forth. make sure you go to the project get the wires or what ever for that step together before soldering double and triple check to make sure you got it right. also for the pot i put mine on right side next to thumb stick about inch and a half below the A button as close to thumb stick as i could. hope this helped
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thanks for every1's help ...GREAT MOD MATT it worked perfect 5/5 stars .... :clap: :clap: :clap:
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thanks alot for you help here Tuck.. I really appreciate it, and I am sure scheme7 does also..LOL
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no prob glad to help hopefully soon i will get time to get a pic to try that out to see the difference between the two
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does this work on COD 5, and does it have to be a lower speed?
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im having some problems,, ive set it all up everything works perfect on cod4, but if i play cod5, its auto shooting, but at normal speed, when i adjust the pot for cod5 it seems like no matter which way i turn it, it stays same speed unless i turn it up all the way then i cant fire.. anyone know what the problem is?
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yes it works for cod 5 and omni it sounds like you might have some solder touching some were or a some wires but i could be wrong
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see on the instructions it gives, 7 and 9 both use the base pin? what about the collector on teh transistor? is it left untouched?
7) run a new wire from the switch to a 1k res and into the base pin of the npn transistor
8) solder te collector of the transistor to the middle trigger pin
9) solder the base to the bottom trigger pin.
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you did catch a typo on my part there. I have corrected the wording.. the diagram is and allways has been correct.
7)switch to base
8) collector to middle pin
9) emitter to bottom pin
now as for your problem of it working in one game and not in the other, and this auto fire you speak of, dosnt make any since. there is no diference between the games to make this happen, it is a problem with your soldering. the fact that it worked fine in cod4 and auto fires in cod5 is unheard of. you must have something loose bouncing around inside the controller..please check all conections
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thanks for replying matt,, yea i know its weird, i can adjust the pot fine for cod4, it just dosent do anything for cod5 just auto shoot at normal speed... imma tear my controler apart n check it out when i get home,
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I personally have not tested this in WAW I will hopefully get to it this weekend with the rest of the install pics. I have been told by a few people it works and also been told it dont.. the biggest thing about your situation is the auto fire deal.. that should not happen regardless of what game it is, and if it does happen, it should happen for all games. it kindof sounds like you have a bad, or wrong transistor.
edit:
not to blow my own horn or anything, but I have not seen a better 555 mod anywhere. but this is also obsolete when you get ready to move into programed chips, that will work for any game, I have made it fairly simple look at this:
https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=29999.0 (https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=29999.0)
that has been consuming alot of my free time.
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yea got it working, my problem was the transistor, i had the emitter and collector reversed, but yea everything works good, thanks for the tut
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kicks mentioned on the first page that he did it with out a transistor. kicks if you can please show me how you wired it, or how you did it, i would be very grateful.
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is gears of war 2 and left 4 dead the same settings as cod 5 or cod4? im getting tired of adjusting and just wanted to know which other games work with cod5 set up
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kicks mentioned on the first page that he did it with out a transistor. kicks if you can please show me how you wired it, or how you did it, i would be very grateful.
kicks left out the transistor, and put rapid on a button, not the triggers, if you conect pin three directly to the center pin, it will cause an auto fire, so put a momentary push button in to control it.
is gears of war 2 and left 4 dead the same settings as cod 5 or cod4? im getting tired of adjusting and just wanted to know which other games work with cod5 set up
I have never played gears of war...left for dead is a little trickey, any mode will work, the faster the better, but it only works with duel pistols. this is in the games programing. as for the cod 5 mode. halo is the closest to that speed. put a small mark where you need it for each of the games you want, so you just line up the marks and bam.
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so would the auto fire shot faster than the triggers regularly, or just act as another trigger?
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no it just act as another trigger, you still have the pot to adjust fire rates
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this works on all games and is the best 555 timer mod congrats matt toot away.i think alot of you should read all all posts most of your ?'s will be answered.like the emitter ?,does it work on cod waw,matrix and cg etc... and the way matt has it setup there is no reason to try to add or take away any parts it works perfect the way it is.also this is not a pic so you are going to have to adjust it for differ games.i have noticed the cod waw setting works on most of them there is really no need for 100 differ settings.just make a mark on the controller for the game you play most.however acid mods is the best for answering any ?'s or problems you may have no need to wait a day or 2 for them to get answered. good luck and have fun modding
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no it just act as another trigger, you still have the pot to adjust fire rates
can you explain how to use a momentary button , cuz it gets so annoying switching it on/off during gameplay i just want a button i can press to shoot the mod .. so if i use a button i dnt need the NPN ? im confused can u just clarify how to hook up the momentary button . THANKS !
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can you explain how to use a momentary button , cuz it gets so annoying switching it on/off during gameplay i just want a button i can press to shoot the mod .. so if i use a button i dnt need the NPN ? im confused can u just clarify how to hook up the momentary button . THANKS !
ok go back to the install schematic, do you see pin number three? see how it goes to a on/off switch? replace the on/off with a MOMENTARY push button. then coming out of the push button, solder directly to the center trigger pin. throw away the transistor and resistor. then when playing use trigger for normal, and push button for rapid fire.
FYI.. this works, as with most sleeper/simisleeper mods by applying voltage to the trigger, and just enough voltage, that any more added will cause it to fire. So when the trigger is pulled, adding more voltage, it rapid fires. So if you turn the switch on, leave off the resistor and transistor (these are what brings that voltage down to exactly where it is needed, just before firing) the 555 will be supplying too much power so the controller will read it as a trigger pull, and the chip pulsates so it registers as multiple trigger pulls. Therefore you can replace the on/off switch with a momentary push button and just use this button for rapid fire.
Hope that helps, and that you have a better understanding of what is going on. Please let me know if you need more help.
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i was wondering if anyone has done the dual triggers using extra wire to the left side? will it work? since the idea of it brought up earlier in this forum kinda just died out. thnx! and great tut!
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Hey folks,
I just joined this forum and I have a question concerning the type respectively the brand of the 555 timer which is used in matt´s tut. I´m from germany so I ordered at our local dealer, which in my case is "www.conrad.de (http://)". It´s a huge online store with dozens of different parts. In a phone call I asked them if there will be any TLC555 timers in near future, cuz they were out of stock. The man told me that he has a substitute for me that name is "Ic Xrl555cp = icm7555 = Lmc 555 Dil 8". He Told me that the XRL555 respective LMC555 should be the same in architecture as the TLC555 is. Only the brand is another.
So I bought this part and set up the circuit as described in matt´s tut (which by the way is great :clap: ) and it works. But not as it should. It stutters and shoots erratic. I tried adjusting the pot but the result is not as I hoped. To cut a long story short - my question is, that I´m not sure whether the type of timer he sold to me is the correct type for matt´s setting with caps and resistors or not.
I tried it in Gears of War 2 and tested with different pot settings. Sometimes when I had a nice result in frequency and continuity it happend that there came breaks an stuttering. Could it be that my (rechargeable) battery pack was too empty and had a too low current for the timer to operate smoothly? In the specs of the TLC555 I read about a voltage range form 2 -15V which should work fine for settings powered by batteries as our controllers are.
Any ideas what could went wrong? Wrong type of timer? Or perhaps a damaged part in the circuit. By the way the ceramic capacitor does not look equal to the one matt used in his tut. It is flat but more kind of a rectangle than a disc. I´m not sure if this makes any difference? I´m also not sure if there has to be a correct resistor setting with the pot for each game, so that I perhaps only got the wrong setting of the pot which causes these stuttering effects... :dntknw:
thanks in advance for your comments on this.
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all the literature I can find on the LMC 555 is that the supply consumption is 4.5v, where as the supply consumption of the TLC 555 is 2v I think its safe to say that is part of the problem. you can try to play with the values of the caps and resistors to see if you can get it to act right.
another thing to look at tis the fire rate, depending on what game u are playing, its going to require a different setting of the firerate (pot adjustments) cod5 only will allow 8 pulses per second, and get a cap, cod 4 is coded diferently, it will alow any rate, however, just to throw numbers out there if you fire at 30 sps it will work fine, but if you fire 32 sps it will studder. it is a very fine line.
hope that helps.
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okay it does't work for me here are some pics from it(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.tinypic.com%2F10wnqlc.jpg&hash=7efc1b92c0d26a56372b12d2c667e7a5bb0365a1)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.tinypic.com%2F33uy81w.jpg&hash=895588524d440ba6b9944d68994c88a608eed3b7)
and here the swith im using its not the one you seid to get cus my radioshack does't have it but its spst and i like the switch look :D but will it work? the item code is 275-0324
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi43.tinypic.com%2F2hoz5sp.jpg&hash=13ae42cbe7898a925281c44b5944ce8fd06a67ba)
can you help ive spent like 30 bucks on :censored: and i want this to work :beg: help
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wow, you have some work to do. to start, on the second pic (the back) use a pair of toe nail clippers to cut back the legs and what not. it appears some of those long legs may be touching other parts.
also, with that switch what will happen is when you flip it, you are going to start firing and not stop until you flip it back. what you need is a momentary switch. you have a toggle switch
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nah none of them are touchin just bent over a bit and it looks like there touchin well im doing it for the stock trigger i got some momentary switchs from a previous project i did so want me to do it like that use a momentary switch instead of my spst toggle switch
Post Merge: June 05, 2009, 01:37:35 PM
okay help it still does't work i redid everythinge and put new wires on the wires i were using were silver on the inside these are copper cut down ect.
the back
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.tinypic.com%2F2qbstvd.jpg&hash=85553134c3662e065f09bfbc7189c7dbea04c5a5)
npn and right trigger pins
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi42.tinypic.com%2F2ni45jl.jpg&hash=55603c21a91132c0fe08cb4693b7a7db5dce4cc8)
my switch
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi43.tinypic.com%2Fdc8t4z.jpg&hash=140bd3b8ac34f784d36a4236d9386792cbb95f74)
vdd and ground
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi42.tinypic.com%2F30rogpe.jpg&hash=77bcacc7e0066adca91bd751fb19a268c6f23d48)
what am i doing wrong?
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what6 function are you getting? I cant really see the first picture, that may help..IDK..see how shot the npn is, you may have damaged it (heat sinsitive) I assemble this and run wires off the legs..it looks ok?
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okay okay it is working like a charm i hate my pushbutton going to radioshack tomorrow and getting a bit bigger one mounted glued and tested yay! :#1: ive been called for rapid fire 5 times in 8 games strait m9 and mp5 on cod5 got 270 rounds for pistol and i use em fast... :D
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good I knew you were close...here depending on placement, this one is my fav
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508)
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yeah i looked before you posted and i thought damn that looks good i want it so tommorrow ill take out my old one and put that one in hey is there a size difference between the two?
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for the one I just linked you need a 1/2 inch hole. but it is the nicest button, nice and smooth, easy to press
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ok so mine works great and all however im very confused on how to adjust the chip any help here?
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to adjust speed, slowly turn the pot. it will be in the range. you wont want to go all the way left or right, start in the center and make very small adjustments.
however, today is 6/11/09 and there was an update today that has changed the filters of the WAW rapidfire deterction filters. research needs to be done to find the new speed, primary focus at this point will be adjustments to the pic type rapid fire, once this is complete we will know if there is anything that can be done to correct the 555 type, depending on how we need to modify the code.
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hi...i have all the stuff for the rapid fire its just i dont know what lead is what on the npn transistor (case info TO92h) it would be great if someone knew thanks
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THIS IS FOR ADJUSTABLE 555 RAPID FIRE ON MOMENTARY SWITCH
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi16.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb5%2Fhaloedsparton%2F555buttons.png&hash=54c1998a80547b44567f9c74150dc39f6b8a9287)
I altered your schematic..
Duel Momentary Switches, with toggle on/off: and Trimmer Potentiometer.
Tested And Working.
I made this design since I had the Momentary switches installed already so I wanted to keep them, The toggle on\off is obliviously for the mod to turn on\off, and the Trimmer.. I love it the ability to change the rate of fire, amazing.
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ill test that haloed got a friend of mine who plays halo alot wants it duel ill try this for him :D
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Post Your Results If You Do.
but you may want to put the resistor back in at the trigger points, not absolutly nesecary, but it should be there
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this has been discussed earlier in the thread. yes it works.
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i was just wondering if you could run a led so you no when its on cause tomorrow im going to get the parts for and i was thinking it would be cool to have a led to see if it on so if you can email me please CAMKILLERS@gmail.com please and thank you
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cam killers, please take the time to read, or even skim through the thread, as this has been done, and there is more than one diagram showing how this can be acomplished.
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hey any one trying this make sure u get the tlc555 timer because thats my only mistake besides that its easy i bought the 555ic so make sure
Post Merge: June 29, 2009, 09:06:00 PM
do u think this would work on ps3
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If i wanted to use a resistor instead of the pot which would be faster a smaller one or bigger.
and what size is perfect for WAW. :beg:
(If you figure out the new patch)ß
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setthe pot, and test the resistance.
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im trying to make it non adjustable
but i guess ill just go buy a bunch of resistors and find out
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im trying to make it non adjustable
but i guess ill just go buy a bunch of resistors and find out
You don't have a multimeter or Ohmmeter? If not I recommend investing in one to find the proper resistance.
Because If you just put a random resistor it can potentially ruin your controller(Triggers).
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good point, but it should not hurt the controller, just the 555 chip itself, as the triggers are protected from the 1K off pin three, with the pot or resistor, you are changing the way the chip oscolates. but yea haloed has a good point.
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Very good tut easy to follow and explains enough for the general public like me. For some reason though my rapid fire stutters sometimes like in the middle of a clip it will pause or "break" for not even a second and then continue but it is a lil annoying if anyone has a clue what it could be plz message or post back. The only thing I could recommend for this is posting different places to place the chip in the controller where it can fit and where people have put it if you have to cut the inside a lil bit or w/e. I put my chip in the lil spot on the top part of the controller underneath the left joystick next to the D-Pad and above the left rumble there is a lil pocket. I'm also wondering if using smaller gauge wire is ok because the 30 gauge seemed a lil too delicate for me and kept breaking at the solder joints. TTYL everyone.
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Modded Matt, thanks SO much for this! The tutorial was very clear and a person like me could follow it! I didn't even make any mistakes, worked the first time haha. Works great, but its easy to hit the cap on cod4 =p (unless i didn't do it right)
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oops..lol..bump
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nice schematic. thanks!
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lol
oops..lol..bump
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i got a few question first off
haloed whats the left trigger for?
second modded matt where your trigger supposed to go? or do you use the current trigger with this mod?
oh yeah one more thing modded matt do you think it would be a good idea to drill a hole for the potomitor to adjust it for different games? sorry if you guys already done this and im a little behind please dont chew me up
THIS IS FOR ADJUSTABLE 555 RAPID FIRE ON MOMENTARY SWITCH
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi16.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb5%2Fhaloedsparton%2F555buttons.png&hash=54c1998a80547b44567f9c74150dc39f6b8a9287)
I altered your schematic..
Duel Momentary Switches, with toggle on/off: and Trimmer Potentiometer.
Tested And Working.
I made this design since I had the Momentary switches installed already so I wanted to keep them, The toggle on\off is obliviously for the mod to turn on\off, and the Trimmer.. I love it the ability to change the rate of fire, amazing.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi370.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo142%2Fmoddedmatt%2F555Trigger.png&hash=bfef3a12550515d497ac8686ff0ef4f315a840cf)
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my origional design (as you posted it above) uses the 360 controllers trigger to fire rapidly. the on/off switch turns rapid fire on/off this is a building block that people have tweeked to fit thier needs.
in the modified schematic by haloed, he has rapid fire on an extra button, and added the left trigger.
I personally would mount the pot through the controller. so it can be adjusted for other games.
I have the install tut finished, but my photobucket is on the verge of locking for the month due to bandwidth restrictions (the high res pics I took for the xclamp fix and 360 tear down tuts ate it up.)
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if i play with the control online will it get patched? i made a rapid fire with no chip for my friend and he said that what happened
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Hey!!! This thing it free to who ever whats it. I am to stoopied..... to figuer programing out. I stick to making controller look DOPE. Just P.M me where to send it to . Just pay shipping 2 bucks... The first one to pm is the one who gets it.
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hey mat you said ur photo bucket is nearly full with ur limited upload on it, this sounds crazy but i use facebook they have no photo or video upload limits and its free cos itts facebook, just set up as joke or fake profile tp upload as many ppics and vids as you want to,
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hey mat you said ur photo bucket is nearly full with ur limited upload on it, this sounds crazy but i use facebook they have no photo or video upload limits and its free cos itts facebook, just set up as joke or fake profile tp upload as many ppics and vids as you want to,
I got hundreds of linked pics, as you can see in this thread, lol I will have them up today
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I dont have a scope to measure the squarewave but I would guess somewhere from 2-50
i know I'm new here but id thought i throw my 2 cents in. if you do the math it should be adjustable from 7 herts to 1440 hertz. hertz=pulses per second. the .1uf resistor between 1 and 5 will change the fire rate a little but not much
I would use a 47k ohm in between 7 and 8 instead of the 1k it would change the rate to 5-30 instead of the 7-1440 it would also square the pulse wave better for more consistent operation
also be careful adjusting it too fast because you are only adjusting the off time.
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hey modded matt do i really need to use the pcb board from radio shack and what type of wire should i use 30 gague or 22 gague?
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you dont have to use that board, any will do, or if your good you can free form it. wire dont matter, make sure all the other parts are exact though
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Just finished this mod! didnt order the exact parts, but i found close enough parts off farnell as im from UK. mod works fine! i still havent assemled the controller because tomorow im adding a led and drilling a hole to alter the pot.
if anyone needs help, just post, im new to modding and this was a breeze! peace
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is this verified to work on modern warfare 2? i got it up and running on split screen but then when i tried it online, live capped it. if so, is there a set resistor i could use in place of the pot? thanks
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I was not aware of a cap at all in MW2??? set the pot where you want it and measure the resistance between the two pins, then replace pot with resistor
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a 555 Timer's output signal can determine weather or not the game can detect rapid fire.
555 timers generate a rectangular wave -- most of the time if the duty cycle is 50%.
My Theory: Design a 555 circuit that outputs a rapid fire Sine wave to simulate the trigger's potentiometer moving.
try adding a 0.1uF capacitor from pin 3 to ground to add a sinusoidal curve to the square wave to "trick" the limiters.
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a 555 Timer's output signal can determine weather or not the game can detect rapid fire.
555 timers generate a rectangular wave -- most of the time if the duty cycle is 50%.
My Theory: Design a 555 circuit that outputs a rapid fire Sine wave to simulate the trigger's potentiometer moving.
try adding a 0.1uF capacitor from pin 3 to ground to add a sinusoidal curve to the square wave to "trick" the limiters.
Sorry to bump, does anyone know if this trick works?
Thanks
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it is theroretical. try it and let us know
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Nice Tut
Does the copper on the back of the PC board stop the solder?
It looks like the copper doesn't let the Solder flow past it
I don't want to overheat the timer and other stuff so will a 15 watt iron be low enough?
Post Merge: May 25, 2010, 07:28:20 PM
How do you measure the resistance?
And doesn't the pot act as a resistor of some sort?
about the cap on mw2:
i've seen people with mods online that don't look like their capped at all
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Yes, a 15 Soldering Iron will work just fine. =D
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This rapid fire is outdated for one. Now we use codes written onto micro controllers. they work better a easier install cause you dont have to use capacitors and abou te size of the timer chip. why not take a look at the opensource board we have a few choices from out members.
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Still the 555 has its advantages over the PIC because it rules over a programmer's monopoly on the "rapidfire business". What if someone wanted to make a 555 mod by themselves without programming and brag about it?
Hey its user-choice. =D I still think 555 R/F will always have potential.
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Yeah I think it will be better than the micro chips because programming them is not widely known :laughing: :yess:
Maybe later it'll be better when people actually start letting people know their programming codes
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there is a plethera of codes listed on this site in the opensource area. help your self. I have even done a tutorial much like this one to show you how to program your own chips.
like fookz said, its user preferance
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Ok but honestly which shoots faster and is more reliable?
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a programed chip is by far more reliable and consistant. as far as shooting faster, that is not relevant because speed is determined by the game programing. but to answer your question, there is no diference in speed. a pic can be set to fire at the same speed any 555 is set to the only difference is with 555 you set the speed by changing the resistance where as with a pic chip it is done in programing
look at the first post in this thread, look who wrote this tut you love so. It was me, I made the same statments you are making now over a year ago, before I learend how to program chips.once you learn you will never want to mess with a 555 again
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I Made this mod awhile back. and then i built a programemr and made my own chip. I was shocked on how much stable it was. Also cause of pics we are able to beat the blocks on some games such as waw. If you looking for a code to use Hazer just released his flex code. A good easy install imo maybe a bit tricky if its your first time. Either way pic have revelutionized the rapid fire. The way I look at this is this could be equivlent to the regular xbox. The pic chips are a 360 a bit more advanced.
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Hey could someone help me because when i attach the VDD (power) to the mic supply my controller turns off and i cant turn it back on and yet the mod doesnt work! could someone help me or explain to me how to connect the mod so it will work thanks
Post Merge: June 09, 2010, 06:11:24 PM
Hey could someone help me because when i attach the VDD (power) to the mic supply my controller turns off and i cant turn it back on and yet the mod doesnt work! could someone help me or explain to me how to connect the mod so it will work thanks
oh and i have a matrix motherboard and when i take the vdd out my controller works again
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take a pic of your wiring, that is the problem, you have something wired wrong
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alright ill do that right about now i also wonder if its the chip i made.I also need some help with my npn switching transistor... i cant figure out which side is the collector and which side is the emitter so if possible you could post some pictures to how you did the last couple steps it would be appreciated for almost everyone :w00t: :winker: :tup: :#1: :laughing: :yess: :dribble: :clap: :drunk:
Post Merge: June 09, 2010, 09:55:39 PM
my camera sucks nutsack and you cant see a thing. so ill tell you by speech, my soldering isnt that pretty but i got the job done. secondly my wiring is on the very left point beside the rubber thingy and my other power goes to the first to the left point beside the other rubber thingy. i believe that the problem is probably in my transistor because when ever i put a wire leading to nothing through that particular power point my controller turns off. so maybe i need to figure out how to get the power back in the controller. through the npn transistor.i know it doesnt make sense but its my gut feeling....... :drunk: :drunk: :drunk: :drunk: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help:
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ok, well.... lets see. its not pretty, but are you sure you got the job done correctly..make sure nothing is bridged. if your haveing problems with the transistor, put it to the side for now.leave that pin (right trigger) unhooked to the pad and power it on if it does the same thing, its obviously not the transistor.sounds like you have your power and ground backwards. there should only be one power source.
haha:
you should only have one power. and it should be the 2nd to left spot by rubber thingy, then attach the ground to the left springgy thingyand then the other one goes tot he middle pin thing over by the right stick under the right rubber thingy. realy dude are you kidding me.
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well so i re-looked at it and it turns out its not the power its the ground. when ever i attach the ground to any of ground points like at the point shown beside the left rubber point and/or the top trigger pin, my controller turns off. when i don't use the ground wire and tap my pin3 shooting wire to the middle trigger point it shoots but only once. Sorry for my bad explanation it was late at night and i wanted to reply quickly. ill take more detail on my next time like under the c12 number or whatever. i am going to take 3 hours out of tomorrow and make another chip but with more patience and try and make it perfect and try this again.
Post Merge: June 10, 2010, 05:55:01 PM
and will 1.5uf tantalum capacitors work? or does it have to be 1.0uf because radioshack just got in 1.0uf caps ( of which i have now bought).I was using 1.5 of which i should of specified but.....sorry. if thats the reason why it wont work i will, just for your pleasure, sack myself. Promise :dribble:
Post Merge: June 13, 2010, 04:39:43 PM
Well I remade another one and it still doesn't work. I tried putting it on a newer controller and it didnt turn off but the rapid fire part of It wasn't working. Please help!!
Post Merge: June 13, 2010, 04:43:24 PM
I made two new chips with all the proper tools and it still doesn't work...HELP ME please I have gotten pics using my phone if you would like to see them :beg: :help:
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k i attached them
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WIll this work on a matrix wired controller ? or will i have to change something being that its 5 volts and not 3 volts?
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never tested on wireless controller, but the voltage will not neeed to be changed. the chip is designed to tollerate this voltage flucuation
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I Said MATRIX WIRED CONTROLLER! but i understand what you meant. about the voltage change that the chip is compatible. I just didnt know if I had to up the resistor from 1k to 10k or what ever is needed
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sorry, I was sleeping when I posted that. I ment I have never tested the wired controllers. from what I am told the controller only realy pulls 2.5-3.5v into the actual circut. I know usb supplys 5v but depending on where you pull power from you may not see the 5v. regardless it should still function.
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CMOS is cool because you can operate off of a 1.5v AA battery. Controllers take 2 these kinds of mods last a pretty long time.
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Thats ok matt I have probably been a pain asking how to make a rapid fire wired controller to work , just dont want to burn anything up, I am just learning and burned up some power supplys for computers , that i hope are fixable.
I checked the voltage and pulled it where its around 3.3 volts to the 555 timer, worked great then when i put the controller together it rapid all the time reallly teed me off...lol
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thats what the transistor was for
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Got it working thanks
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Hey guys was wondering if anyone had the part numbers for this mod from mouser. Read through and didn't see anything. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
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Hey guys was wondering if anyone had the part numbers for this mod from mouser. Read through and didn't see anything. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
I went on a search and find mission. I found one:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TLC555CPE4/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsFq5dYAzx%252bAKFGQbs%2fZDwRPFNlz4pbAw0%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TLC555CPE4/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsFq5dYAzx%252bAKFGQbs%2fZDwRPFNlz4pbAw0%3d)
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Thanks,
So this part has been tested and works? There was many different ones to choose from on the site I wasn't sure which to pick.
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Yes this works, I had a little trouble with the wired matrix controller . but works great now. simple little mistake that i made in the begining but all is good now. and works on my wireless controllers also.
I like this one cost more then the other ones to make, but works just as good, i have made 7 different rapid fire controllers now :tup: thanks to the guys at AM for helping me out
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I know this is an old mod.
but is it still viable?
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I know this is an old mod.
but is it still viable?
YES, Just made one not to long ago works great :)
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sweet this is my first controller mod.
I will post pics.
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Cool. cant wait to see them wish i would of took pics of mine, they both came out sweet
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depends what game your playing, I suggest modding your controller without mounting the switch or the chip, leave off the back bezel and let the chip and button hang out the bottom. that way if you want to change mods, you dont have a wasted controller.
this is a good place to start. enjoy
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Finished it last night but it did not work.
I will take it back apart and check my work.
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I burned the timer up. Reordered the parts so i can try again.
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Hey Nam3o you can start your own topic and post pictures of your work log there. You might get more comments and suggestions there instead of here.
i burn out 555 timers all the time, its sucks.
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Hey matt,
I thought I followed your tutorial very well but am still encountering problems. I have the matrix so I'm not sure if I'm connecting the mic supply/ grounding in the right spot since your tut is for the CG. I connected the VDD to the R33 on the controller motherboard. Is this correct? When I tested it out and click my rapid fire button it just shoots once. (no rapid fire). Please help! I'm so close i know it!
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Not sure what points your talknin about, but i just installed this mod on the matrix controller with the same points as the cg and its working perfectly. I didnt use the .1 uf tantalion capacitor thing, as i dont have it right now. I also didnt use the transistor and i just had rapid fire on the button. Heres da pic of my controller to show you the points i used. Im really saprized on how great this mod was since ive never used a 555 timer and ive always thought of them as garbage.
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use the same points for matrix as you do for cg, (you have a on/off switch, so bleeding is not an issue, and you need all the power the controller can give) as for the transistor, its only needed for RF on the trigger. the 0.1 is for static, to help keep it from studdering, it is not neccesary, but recomended.
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Hey, im new to this site, but ive been trying to figure out a way to do this for awhile now. I first tried a video i read on youtube, but didnt do the trick. I then followed exactly what you said, part numbers and all, and it worked. But when i shoot, it will shoot really fast, but then quit, then shoot again later. So i guess you could say it's pulsating? I was just wondering how can i fix this? My controller is a matrix so an older style, does that change anything? Im also trying this on black ops? By the way, adjusting the potentiometer works, but still either way i do it, it will pulsate, and quit shooting. I did use the exact tlc timer too, i read earlier that that may make it stutter? But i do have the right one. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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thats black ops... this was designed to work with cod4, the new rapid fire patch in blops is chats causing your results. try a programed chip from the open source section.
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So this mod will work only for cod4? I have a mod with a chip and it works great on another controller, im just trying to do it on my own this time around.
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So this mod will work only for cod4? I have a mod with a chip and it works great on another controller, im just trying to do it on my own this time around.
This mod will work for pretty much any game if you adjust the potentiometer to the right setting.
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it wll work, just depends on how well.
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Would i be better off then, doing Robbo3's blackops tested 3 mode jitter? That would fully work and better? It seems to me no matter what i do to the potentiometer it doesnt really change the shots.
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Hey Matt,
I was wondering if this mod works on the new cg2 controllers.
Thanks in advance.
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it should, never tried it, but there is no reason why it wont.
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Ok thanks. I'll update you if it works.
Edit: Awesome. It works (like expected). This will be my .. 10th one i've made so far. (Most of them back when cg had just came out.)
[mod]No Double Post edit last post [/mod]
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Thanks so much for the tutorial, very detailed and it worked great!
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I'm trying to do this with a circuit board I have not seen before:
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi98.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl244%2Fm_player%2F652becf9.jpg&hash=834a1fa2e280dc4694ecb09315dbaf2a2619ff4b)
When I connect the VCC on pin 8 to the microphone power pin, the controller will not turn on. Everything is hooked up correctly, using a TLC555 that is brand new. What are my alternatives for power? Any tips for troubleshooting?
Thanks!
m
PS: I realize this is an old thread with an old method, but the method stands true; not necessary to order parts and relatively cheap.
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I'm trying to do this with a circuit board I have not seen before:
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi98.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl244%2Fm_player%2F652becf9.jpg&hash=834a1fa2e280dc4694ecb09315dbaf2a2619ff4b)
When I connect the VCC on pin 8 to the microphone power pin, the controller will not turn on. Everything is hooked up correctly, using a TLC555 that is brand new. What are my alternatives for power? Any tips for troubleshooting?
Thanks!
m
PS: I realize this is an old thread with an old method, but the method stands true; not necessary to order parts and relatively cheap.
old topic... why not use flex rf from hazer?
o and btw that is a cg2 board
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old topic... why not use flex rf from hazer?
Use a what? Link please?
This mod allows for local purchasing of parts and I'm working on it for someone else and I need to have it done by tomorrow. I have money invested into this and I am just curious about another location to connect the VCC.
-m
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I'm trying to do this with a circuit board I have not seen before:
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi98.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl244%2Fm_player%2F652becf9.jpg&hash=834a1fa2e280dc4694ecb09315dbaf2a2619ff4b)
When I connect the VCC on pin 8 to the microphone power pin, the controller will not turn on. Everything is hooked up correctly, using a TLC555 that is brand new. What are my alternatives for power? Any tips for troubleshooting?
Thanks!
m
PS: I realize this is an old thread with an old method, but the method stands true; not necessary to order parts and relatively cheap.
Here you can tell what kind of Circuit board you have for your controller
https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,24699.0.html (https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,24699.0.html)
Also its ok that this is a old topic . this 555 timer RF works.
Edit:
I have used this on Wireless Matrix and Wired controller in the past and Cg controllers but not a cg2 or matrix2 board.. and the wired controllers its been a long time since i done one , but it was a little tricky getting it to work correctly .. but i got it , sorry can't remember what i did , was over a year ago when i did them.
Might be having issues due to its a CG2 board.
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Is there a diagram for this board? Could I use the pin on the back right of the board underneath the left analog?
I have to ask so I don't fry the dang timer first.
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the diagram will be the same for cg2 boards, try wiring pin 8 straight to the pin where the spring for the battery is.
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The diagram is the same in respect to power for the cg2. or as stated you can wire directly to the battery or the PNC terminals. However if it wont turn on you have a dead short. the trigger points my be reversed on this board. remove everything except the ground and turn on the controller. then touch the supply wire to the supply point and see if it turns off. if it does not, proceed to testing the trigger. If it turns off, you have a bad timer or bad wiring.
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The diagram is the same in respect to power for the cg2. or as stated you can wire directly to the battery or the PNC terminals. However if it wont turn on you have a dead short. the trigger points my be reversed on this board. remove everything except the ground and turn on the controller. then touch the supply wire to the supply point and see if it turns off. if it does not, proceed to testing the trigger. If it turns off, you have a bad timer or bad wiring.
I actually used a 10k resistor instead of a 1k on 7&8.
Yet the original orientation of the trigger pins does not work and switching to the top makes the gun fire when I flip the switch for the mod in COD4 but nothing else.
Currently dissassembling my CG controller to see if the wiring/mod is to blame and not the CG2 board.