...now an opensource usb programmable rf lul...
This is great to hear, is it possible to use this with the sync button instead of the tact. I don't mind soldering etc but dont really want to add a tact to my controller. Many thanks.use a sleeper code like burnmeup then. :)
8 or even 14 modes*cough* t0pfire *cough*
*cough* t0pfire *cough*
Oh and thank you for no resistor optimization, it's only wires a switch and a chip now haha
This is great to hear, is it possible to use this with the sync button instead of the tact. I don't mind soldering etc but dont really want to add a tact to my controller. Many thanks.
firstly it does all loook a bit complicated when you first glance at the operation notes ..
and you have'nt mentioned what the 'default' setting are at when you first program?
which may put alot of people off ...
secondly, just programed it on my matrix controller and there only 'seems' to have 3 modes ..
all off, lower left on, then lower right on, then back to off again ... am i missing something ?
I am going to say this only once: I dont give a crap about stealth installs. You are willing to crack open your controller, solder in a chip with code produced by someone you dont have any backgournd info on, to add a turbo function to your controller, and that function has been optimized for actual playability, and the thing that matters most is the asthetics of an extra button on the bottom of the controller? Is it really that big of a f****ng deal? Is it the idea that you will do something irreversable to a $35 controller (that quite frankly gains $25 in value having the damn chip installed, not degrqades in value)? Are you trying to hide the function? Really? I could go through the hastle of coding the stupid trick of holding DPAD left while tapping SYNC and holding up on the right thumb while sucking my left pinky toe and ligthing a candle with the lighter pinched in my ass as a way to keep the controller 'stealth', but how does that work while 12 people are trying to gun you down and you picked up a weapon that requires you to turn the RF off? The answer is "that method sucks".
How did you do without the resistors Hazer?
1 Q for you whats the top speed you can go in CODWAW with it undetected?
Insert Quote
hiya guys, downloaded and fitted the chip as discribed in picture as new cg board but mine has no brown resistor in the middle or the big silver one, im guessing its a newer version to the cg. anyway all i get from the controller once connected to the 360 is a continued single p3 flash followed by a p3 and p4 flash together and it never changes no matter how many times i press the tactile or triggers, or how long i hold them.
am i doing something wrong has im 100% sure all the wireing is spot on?
plz help, thanks.
Honestly, it sounds like you wired the wrong two prongs on the tact switch. The tact switch has 4 prongs, of which 2 on each side are linked. You need the opposing prongs (open circuit) wired for the chip to operate correctly. Desolder one side of the tact as a test. then you can just tap the bare wire to switch modes to confirm operation (if this is what the problem is)
did actually start from scratch and try the top fire again on a matrix controller, :censored:ed it up coz that dont work now lol, how do i no which 2 prongs on the tacts are correct m8? , i have another spare matrix and deffo want to try this.
think ill be upgrading one of my current pads with this over the weekend.... its just wow.. and yeah once you've got it installed and have the chart of blinks to speeds its not to hard to set up..... i got the hang of it after sett ing this pad up and testing and re-setting it.....
For most tacts, if you bent the tacts flat so they are 90 degrees compared to the button, the two prongs pointing the same way are the ones that are open to each other. Maybe someone else can find a picture to show this better.
Hey guys I have tested HAzers code on cg2, and for works perfectly.can someone please help with a schematic for 3 color led option. I bought a TRi color led with 4 legs, longest one was anode and the three legs represented the red, blue, and green lights.
and also i wired the leds with the 3 color method.... thats cool..... mode 1- no lights
mode 2- blue light
mode 3- red light
mode 4- purple/pinky light (if i turn that mode on......)
this has to be the BEST opensource RF out there..... hands down..... :tup: :tup: :#1:
i wouldent mind unplugging the battery mate, but as said above all wireing is done correct but the p3 flashes once followed by p3 and p4 together and it continues all the time, cant seem to get it working.I had exactualy the same problem as you so its not your wiring. I also told topbuzz about this bug and he seemed to understand what it could be. It also seems to be mobo specific as some people have success installing it on a CG2 board other dont. I just installed on a different mobo in the end and it worked flawlesley.
maybe i will put topfire on it instead has that works on 3 of my other pads ok, just too many modes i think.
Post Merge: April 08, 2010, 10:07:14 AM
tryed the topfire also on cg2 and no luck, p3 and p4 just keep flashing and sometimes blink really fast, and when im shooting it sometimes dont shoot and then it will shoot on its own without trigger pressed.
double checked and triple checked wireing and all as is in tutorial, deffo :censored:ed off with the cg2, i think its time to hit the :censored: with a hammer.
digikey:http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=PIC12F683-I/P-ND
spark is correct
switch is good (as long as its tall enough) I think I used 7.5mm
if you go to microchipdirect.com you can get 4 free samples
also i have a newer cg controller someone metions a octocoupler can someone point me to a link of the right specs or one i need for this controller. wouldent mind playing against me little boy tonight on it lol
to edit the ammount of modes you need to be in mode 1 (i.e the mode with no led indication)right, start editing mode from mode 1 to gain access to mode 4
if you go to microchipdirect.com you can get 4 free samples
well does the trigger work normaly outside of the programming mode. If not you should check the solder points u could have bridged somthing u should not have.
So to sum up, did you accidently wire the right and left triggers backwards?
For the LEDs: Output is 50% duty cycle when on, and tri-stated while off. Perfectly safe for the LEDs as long as the code is not tampered with.
For the triggers: Only the matrix required resistors. This code checks the state of the triggers on each tri-stated pulse. If the PIC see the trigger released, it keeps the output off.
try putting a burst mode on 1 of modes
no rapid fire on each triggers but set burst to like 5 would that work pal ? should do ?
Does anyone know if Flex will work on a CL wired controller.
Thanks
PonyProg serial device programmer heres the link:http://www.lancos.com/prog.html
...Anyone have any other apps like this? I got a new JDM programmer in the mail today and i cant get it to work with any application...
...the damn things already only barely fit inside at the recommended install location...
you can see that I install the chip face down, I feel it fits better this way and prevents the pins from scratching the solder mask off the board and potentially causing a short, and as far as I knew this was the recommended install position
Sorry but the lowest sps I can get is 2.94 which is 10x10. How can I get 2.3 sps?
COD Zombie mod
3 moeds
1st mode both disabled
2nd mode right trigger 11 SPS CODWAW signal
3rd mode Left trigger 2.3 SPS standard signal, right trigger (your prefference).
This last one makes the controller auto-aim at multiple targets.
he prolly meant 2.94Any advances on this?
I'd just like to say thanks for the code. Recently installed it on a CG using the sync button (wired positive tac pin to middle pin on the sync) instead of an external tac and it works like a charm.Are you saying you've done it as a sleeper mod? How is it possible to program without sending the controller into sync mode?
Are you saying you've done it as a sleeper mod? How is it possible to program without sending the controller into sync mode?
When you activate programming mode, it does go into sync mode as well. Just press the sync button on the Xbox and it goes back to normal, allowing you to program; same process to exit programming mode. Kind of a hassle, yes, but it seems like a fair tradeoff for not having an external button.Thanks for that, it works perfectly. Not sure why hazer didn't realise/tell us about this? Also I found that if the press the sync button while it is syncing then it stops syncing so no need to press the xbox sync button. I love this fully programmable sleeper mod. :tup:
I am going to say this only once: I dont give a crap about stealth installs. You are willing to crack open your controller, solder in a chip with code produced by someone you dont have any backgournd info on, to add a turbo function to your controller, and that function has been optimized for actual playability, and the thing that matters most is the asthetics of an extra button on the bottom of the controller? Is it really that big of a f****ng deal? Is it the idea that you will do something irreversable to a $35 controller (that quite frankly gains $25 in value having the damn chip installed, not degrqades in value)? Are you trying to hide the function? Really? I could go through the hastle of coding the stupid trick of holding DPAD left while tapping SYNC and holding up on the right thumb while sucking my left pinky toe and ligthing a candle with the lighter pinched in my ass as a way to keep the controller 'stealth', but how does that work while 12 people are trying to gun you down and you picked up a weapon that requires you to turn the RF off? The answer is "that method sucks".
For all of you who keep asking for stealth installs: Take the goddam plunge and drill teh damn hole. It wont hurt that bad, its just one controller. Hell, its only a $10 shell that can be replaced. Try the freedom of quicktapping where your finger naturally sits (under the controller) and see what all the cool kids are raving about. Until 100 people all swear that they have gone over to the darkside and still demand stealth over a real gameplay setup and reply all in unison to this thread, I will NOT be providing any code that keeps the contorller 'original'. Sorry.
EDIT: To nathd: my response was rather harsh and I dis not mean to jump on you directly. As you are a fairly new poster here you stumbled onto a very raw nerve I have about this subject, and I apologize. You just happened to be the unlucky person to ask me about this.
I will not apologize to any further requests about stealth mods. My statement holds strong (just not a personal attack on nathd). If you people really want your stealth mods so bad, do this: Wire the tact line to the SYNC button, but then cut the trace on the controller that leads to the SYNC. Just be sure you sync your controller first before doing this, otherwisse you will have to open the contorller and solder a jumper in order to resync. If you want your 'stealth' so badly, do the work yourself and stop bugging me about it. You will note that this is a mighty inconvenient solution and there is no way you would be able to sell a stealth install of this on Ebay as the buyer would have no way to sync the controller to his xbox. I like this idea more and more as I read it.
I did say something about it:I do remember reading that but didn't like the idea of cutting the trace. The way we have done it doesn't require cutting the trace. To be honest the reason I wanted to use the sync button wasn't for stealth but for simplicity. It is a lot easier dispensing with the extra button; no hole to drill, no waiting for the glue gun to heat up, less wires to route, all wires consolidated to the board. The only downside is the sync function kicking in when you program, however just pressing the sync button again takes it out of sync mode so it really isn't an issue.
The best way to use the controller is having a tact button where your finger sits while holding the controller. Because I value function over stealth, I dont care about making it convenient. If you like having your controller sync all the time, I am glad that you found a happy medium and I hope youo enjoy the code.
Hazer, I have used this on the CG board, and works awsome. want to thank you for such a great easy to use rapid fire,
can this be used on the CG2 board , wired the same way ?
i realize you cant actually count the shots per sec. but u can tell how fast its going vs 8.9. i think so anyways. soooo.... is flex the best rf this far for Blops...?
crazymoddwers six mode is
wats up guys, i have just installed the flex in a matrix, it works perfect but i was wondering when the controller has battery pack plugged in, the leds are on( just a little bit), and my cg controller won't do anything, the leds go on when i am press the button, but the rapidfire doesn't work, and can the cg be used for a cg2 controller or is there a different hex for cg2
I've tried twice now installing this on a new controller ... flat out doesn't work period! Double checked all my connections and verified them with a DMM and then the PIC programming ... still nothing! Complete waste of time!
This code is perfect. YOU have made a mistake, not our fault. I have personally installed this on many controllers....what do you really think everyone is lying? thats a large consperacy.
I know how to wire a PIC (this is not my first rapid fire mod) and all the wires were soldered on correctly (double checked and verified continuity between all solder points) and I verified the program on the PIC before and after the install.
Brand new CG2 controller, yes I used the CG hex file & wiring diagram and verified the voltages, wires, etc. ... reason I tried it twice.
... still the same result both times .... didn't work at all. It's not that big a deal .... it was free ... figured I'd give it a try ... didn't work on my controller ... oh well :cry2:
I did use a PIC I bought from MADDOG controllers which is much more involve in wiring up and it worked just fine so I know it wasn't a wiring mistake or a controller issue ... problem is that wasn't free and uses momentary buttons, resistors, etc. instead :confused:
Im thinking about using this code in my next controller. Just wondering... how do i get the mode indicator through different colored leds in the guide button, like in your video, instead of through the player leds. Your video makes the controller look so hardcore!That is a tri colored led inserted into the lower half of the guide button, and to be honest a reasonably tricky mod, i will have a look around my pc and see if i have the intructions still
I've tried twice now installing this on a new controller ... flat out doesn't work period! Double checked all my connections and verified them with a DMM and then the PIC programming ... still nothing! Complete waste of time!GTFO nuff said
That is a tri colored led inserted into the lower half of the guide button, and to be honest a reasonably tricky mod, i will have a look around my pc and see if i have the intructions still
Final rapidfire is flex with an rs232 interface to program the controller with a PC utility. Point and click adjustments. At the very end of the design work, I thought it would be a good idea to make the controller have a 'self-editting' feature just in case you did not want to go all the way to the computer to change a speed by one setting.
Flex is basically the Final rapidfire with the PC interface ripped out.
Sadly, I have seen only one design that matched mine in the open market. I cannot even remember who sold it. I would have figured by now there would have been a tremendous leap in rapidfire designs compared to the open-source but it seems like people are happy to spend $20 on a static 6-mode 'a 13 year-old made this' code.
Hell, with all of the information freely out there and discussed many times in these forums, I am shocked no-one has made a USB version of my design. It would take all of about a week or two.
Final rapidfire is flex with an rs232 interface to program the controller with a PC utility. Point and click adjustments. At the very end of the design work, I thought it would be a good idea to make the controller have a 'self-editting' feature just in case you did not want to go all the way to the computer to change a speed by one setting.
Flex is basically the Final rapidfire with the PC interface ripped out.
Sadly, I have seen only one design that matched mine in the open market. I cannot even remember who sold it. I would have figured by now there would have been a tremendous leap in rapidfire designs compared to the open-source but it seems like people are happy to spend $20 on a static 6-mode 'a 13 year-old made this' code.
Hell, with all of the information freely out there and discussed many times in these forums, I am shocked no-one has made a USB version of my design. It would take all of about a week or two.
Would this code work just how it is copy to PIC and install it ? I don't quite
Understand on the info saying about editing etc... same as with
The burnmeup codes, and gameplayRF. It confuses me, can I just copy the
Code to the pic and use it on the games, or do I need to mess with
The code in order to work. I've tried all codes on here but this ones.
Cause they confuse me by saying to change stuff. So far the ones I like are
Robbos jitter and the 6 mode, easier and faster.
For the IL2 opto: Figure 10 in the datasheet says that the Ice (current suplied to the PIC) can only reach a maximum of 25mA at the cost of supplying 50mA to the LED when turned on. This is the wrong opto to use for this.
If when using the diodes you can see the LEDs lit with the controller disassembled, this is normal. It is extremely low current. If you can see the LEDs lit with the controller assembled, then something is wrong.