Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1697 (Read 57331 times)

RDC · « **on:** July 04, 2015, 06:13:38 AM »

Latest version of the XB1 controller with the 3.5mm Headset connector. It's still a CG layout, and I'll update this with more info once I've gone over it some more.

So far there doesn't seem to be much difference from the earlier 1537 version in how everything works at the core. https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43204.0.htmlrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

The IR LEDs have been removed in this version, though all of the circuitry and support components are still there.

The MCU board has been redone with a Freescale MKL26Z256VMC4 in a BGA package. It's not much different from the 1537 MCU aside from having twice the Flash and RAM. The PCB is now 4-layer also.

1697 BUTTON/POWER BOARD TOP

1697 BUTTON/POWER BOARD BOTTOM

1697 MCU BOARD TOP

1697 MCU BOARD BOTTOM

J1/J5 Connector Pinout

1 - 3.5v (Rumble V+)
2 - DR
3 - DU
4 - DD
5 - DL
6 - SY
7 - LED IR x 2 (IR LEDs are not installed on this version)
8 - 5v USB
9 - LB
10 - D+ USB
11 - POWER OK / SHUTDOWN
12 - D- USB
13 - GROUND
14 - GROUND

J2/J6 Connector Pinout

1 - V+ (3v Wired), (Battery Voltage Wireless)
2 - LED (under GU, does not drive LED directly)
3 - GROUND
4 - 3.3v
5 - RB
6 - GU (thru D27) Only Guide will work if J2/J6 pin 6 is used for new/alternate Guide button. Use Cathode side of D27 on Power/Button board or controller will not power on when it's pressed.
7 - USB Cable LED
8 - A
9 - X
10 - Y
11 - VW
12 - MN
13 - PNC DETECTION
14 - GROUND

BUTTON/POWER BOARD TEST POINTS

TP1 - Manufacturing test point of carbon film at SW7, X button, ~115 ohms to ground (top side test)
TP2 - Manufacturing test point of carbon film at SW7, X button, ~115 ohms to ground (bottom side test)

MCU BOARD TEST POINTS (some)

TP1 - D-
TP2 - D+
TP3 - RESET_b

TP5 - 5v USB

TP9 - 3.3v

TP15 - SWD_CLK

TP17 - SWD_DIO

TP21 - GND

TP27 - LT MOTOR+
TP28 - HEAVY MOTOR+
TP29 - RT MOTOR+
TP30 - LIGHT MOTOR+

TP37 - DR
TP38 - DD
TP39 - SY
TP40 - DU
TP41 - DL

TP43 - LB

TP46 - A
TP47 - Y
TP48 - MN

TP51 - RB

TP53 - X
TP54 - VW

TP77 - B

TP99 - LSY
TP100 - LSX
TP101 - RSY
TP102 - RSX
TP103 - 1.8v, AN+ (vRef)
TP104 - RT
TP105 - LT
TP106 - LSC
TP107 - RSC

TP110 - GND
TP111 - GND

TP114 - Manufacturing test point of carbon film at SW3, B button, ~115 ohms to ground (top side test)
TP115 - Manufacturing test point of carbon film at SW3, B button, ~115 ohms to ground (bottom side test)

TP118 - 3.5v (Rumble V+)
TP119 - LT MOTOR+
TP120 - RT MOTOR+

TP130 - GND
TP131 - GND
TP132 - GND
TP133 - GND
TP134 - GND
TP135 - GND

TP137 - GND
TP138 - GND

My Schematic* of the Button/Power Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201697%20TOP%20BOARD.pdf

* Information will be updated when/if I get them scoped and/or figured out.

leonemax81 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 09, 2016, 09:10:31 AM »

What are the points of rapidfire 9 mode on this new pcb?

Modded Matt · « **Reply #2 on:** April 11, 2016, 12:53:47 PM »

leonemax81 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 13, 2016, 10:57:55 AM »

What are the points of rapidfire 9 mode on this new pcb?

LINK:
https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,43308.new.html#new

Christian87 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 19, 2017, 04:03:34 PM »

Hello everyone. Hope all is well. I believe I'm in the right place. I purchased an Arduino micro in hopes of making my Xbox one controller rapid fire. I can't afford any other alternative really. I have flashed the Arduino successfully with the source code. The video I watched on how to do it the guy was using a Xbox one s controller. Mine being the generation 2 controller the soldering points differ. I've tried to reach him numerous times but he hasn't responded. This is why I looked around the internet for help. I came across this post on the Xbox one controller boards an such. Thought you might be able to help me. The picture I'm attaching are the points I need to find in my controller, the other is just the points on the Arduino

Bejita · « **Reply #5 on:** May 23, 2018, 09:59:30 PM »

I Have a Problem with my Y Button, and someone can help me how to trace it ? because i already change my conductive pad and the problem this same (Y Button Not Work)

RDC · « **Reply #6 on:** May 24, 2018, 03:49:02 PM »

Check and see if R42 is still on the bottom side of the top board.

Bejita · « **Reply #7 on:** May 29, 2018, 09:17:14 AM »

R42 still ok...

RDC · « **Reply #8 on:** May 29, 2018, 10:04:57 AM »

You'll have to get out the meter and see if the traces are good from the Y button to pin 10 of J2 for the top board.

There isn't much tracing you can do on the bottom board since the MCU is in a BGA package.

It would help if you had another controller of the same version so you could swap the boards around to know which one has the issue, but if the meter test checks out then the top board should be fine because there isn't anything up there for the Y button but the contacts, it's traces, R42 and the connector.

Er0cK · « **Reply #9 on:** August 22, 2018, 08:35:25 PM »

Where can I get LT and RT on this PCB?

RDC · « **Reply #10 on:** August 22, 2018, 09:41:11 PM »

Where it says in the MCU Board Test Points list.

Er0cK · « **Reply #11 on:** August 23, 2018, 06:31:49 PM »

. Looked right over that. Thanks for the great scans man. Made this project go really well.

alexf · « **Reply #12 on:** August 24, 2018, 07:47:12 AM »

Which part of the XB1 controller board handles the main functions and which is the wireless chip. My y button on my controller 'the 1697 model' doesn't work and my suspicion is the main chip?

RDC · « **Reply #13 on:** August 24, 2018, 10:03:58 AM »

U1 is on the MCU board, but most of the Y button line is on the Power board, and if there's any issue with the traces/vias and such there then the Y button would still not work. So you can suspect one versus the other, but either could have an issue and cause Y to not work.

All of the buttons are active Lo, so you can short that Y button line to ground at the connector and see if it works or not. That will at least get it narrowed down to which board has the issue, unless you have another working controller of the same version to swap a board in for testing.

alexf · « **Reply #14 on:** August 24, 2018, 01:36:19 PM »

I have shorted out the y button from the connector using 2 wires and still it doesn’t work I suspect a bad mcu board, sadly I do not have another mcu or power board the same model to test to confirm the bad board. At this point I do not see how to proceed. Your help is much appreciated thank you

.

RDC · « **Reply #15 on:** August 24, 2018, 03:30:53 PM »

TP47 on the MCU board is the Y button, and if shorting that to ground gives you no Y press then it's either the short trace run from there to the MCU, the solder ball connection of the MCU or the MCU itself.

A scratched trace or a bad via are the usual culprits. A bad solder joint on the MCU would be rare. Just that one button up and dying inside the MCU would be winning lotto number lucky.

alexf · « **Reply #16 on:** August 24, 2018, 05:32:34 PM »

Ok, thanks for the advise, it was very helpful.

Er0cK · « **Reply #17 on:** September 03, 2018, 08:43:45 AM »

Lost C27 during the removal of the right analog stick. Looks like it connected to RSC. I dont need that button, should the capacitor be replaced, bridged, or omitted? If needed what's the value?

Thanks again

RDC · « **Reply #18 on:** September 03, 2018, 09:07:17 AM »

Never bridge where a Capacitor was installed.

In this case it will be fine with it missing, just clean it up so no bits of it are left over as they can cause a short.

Er0cK · « **Reply #19 on:** September 03, 2018, 09:29:09 AM »

Thanks.

I cleaned it up in preparation of replacing it.

saulveloz · « **Reply #20 on:** September 04, 2018, 03:37:32 AM »

I bought a Faulty controller for really cheap long time ago, faulty model 1697 right Stick drifting it came and it had all the pads ripped, and now im trying to make bridges to the test point Of RSX and RSY but i think the grounds are messing me up
The Red one in the circle i don't know where to connect i thought they were grounds, and the blue ones to the trace or the test point
I didn't return the controller because it was really cheap and maybe for parts if i can't fix it
Sorry for my bad english

RDC · « **Reply #21 on:** September 04, 2018, 09:34:42 AM »

+ are the AN+ rail
G are Ground
O are also ground, solder lugs for the stick
o are also ground for RSC
x are RSC
Y is RSY
X is RSX

The other stick is laid out the same way for power and ground, it's just LSY, LSX and LSC on that one.

Code: [Select]


  O      O
G         x  o
Y
+         x  o
  O      O
   + X G

skysheep132 · « **Reply #22 on:** November 14, 2019, 04:45:20 AM »

Hello, I am working on a xbox controller 1697 and am needing to know what Q3 does up by the charger, if anyone could lend and hand to help.

thanks in advance.

RDC · « **Reply #23 on:** November 14, 2019, 06:49:14 AM »

Q3 is an NPN Transistor, it turns the LED (D19) on/off.

skysheep132 · « **Reply #24 on:** November 14, 2019, 07:43:02 AM »

thank you, would you know any readings from it that can help me test? and details on how to find and buy them

RDC · « **Reply #25 on:** November 14, 2019, 08:18:51 AM »

Code: [Select]

    3
[        ]
  1    2

1 - Base/Gate
2 - Emitter/Source
3 - Collector/Drain

The Base/Gate will have voltage on it to turn the LED on. It's PWM controlled, so a DMM will only measure 0.6v or so if it's on. Really need a scope or Logic Analyzer to see that signal correctly.
Emitter/Source is connected to Ground.
Collector/Drain goes to the LED Cathode.

Provided the controller is working and just the LED is not, you can jumper pins 2 and 3 to see if the LED turns on.

If it does turn on, then Q3 or R10 or the MCU could be bad.

If it does not turn on, then the LED, R5 or the power rail for the LED could be the problem.

It's just a pretty bog standard SOT23 package NPN Transistor or N-channel FET used as a switch, so it's not really critical it be exactly the same. The 3904 would work there, or any of a mountain of others, and any online parts place like Digikey, Mouser and the like would have them.

skysheep132 · « **Reply #26 on:** November 14, 2019, 08:49:30 AM »

Right thank you,

The situation I am in is i have a 1697 xbox controller that will not turn on when using battery's but will come straight on with mains power. From what i can tell there is a fault with the Q3 (markings W1A 55), would think i am running along the right track to sort this out if i replaced the Q3?
but ive removed the Q3 (now wont power on with mains or battery) to try and find one like it but the closest i got to it working is when i have it all connected to batterys and the only way i can get it to be powered on is by holding the xbox home button.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #27 on:** November 14, 2019, 02:13:38 PM »

Q3 has nothing at all to do with the controller tuning on, all that does is make the LED turn on.

Mains power would fry the controller, if you mean the USB cable there then that's different. Does not turn on from battery power, but does from USB cable power?

If that is the issue, then make sure L1 is on the top board and there are no cracks in the PCB first.

skysheep132 · « **Reply #28 on:** November 17, 2019, 02:55:45 AM »

Thank you for the reply, yes that’s what I mean? Connected to a pc via micro usb does work but battery power doesn’t. I’m having a hard time finding L1on the board, finding L2-L4. Pcb itself is fully intact with no cracks.

RDC · « **Reply #29 on:** November 17, 2019, 08:42:41 AM »

Bottom side of the top board. L1 is a much smaller Inductor than L2, L3 and L4. It's just above the octagon hole for the stick, next to C1.

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1697 (Read 57331 times)