DualSense 5 Controller PCB Scans

[Kraaz]

I tried with voltage, but my PSU on 1.8V give only 0.06A output for shorts. Need to buy better PSU. This is not suitable for this kind of jobs

My recommendation ''Mechanic VC04'' Short killer. Nice compact device.

[marciolima]

Hi everyone,

I?m modding a DualSense controller (BDM-010) for an arcade stick and ran into an issue with the L2/R2 inputs. I noticed that L2 and R2 work with a voltage divider, setting the signal to ~0.9V at rest (instead of using a pull-up resistor).

I replicated this using two 10k resistors to create a similar voltage divider, and it works fine? but only if the BWL-010 board is connected during the controller's initialization. If I remove the BWL-010, the controller doesn't properly initialize.

Does anyone know why the BWL-010 is required at startup? Is it sending some kind of signal or specific resistance values the main board checks?

Any tips on how to bypass this dependency or emulate the BWL-010?s function would be awesome!


Thanks in advance!

[RDC]

Could be it doesn't like the Trigger position line floating, or they're reading the data from the EEPROMs on those boards. Either way, close to a year and a half ago now you asked about this and the same then is true now, just leave them plugged in. Unless you're making an arcade stick that is half the size of the controller shell, you're just making more work for yourself trying to get rid of them.

https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44714.msg339163.html#msg339163

[marciolima]

Ok. Tks.

Happy New Year!

[zis2104]

BDM 030 VIAS

This caps what are their value? 1uf?

[RDC]

1nF

[texpertx]

Hey guys)
When left stick started drifting i was so self-confident that tried to fix it by myself. Replaced both of them with some cheap Hall effect one from aliexpress and now they work perfectly, although desoldering was a real pain. But during first use I discovered that R1 button doesn't work at all and "adaptiveness" of L2 works a bit differently, which doesn't bother me much, but R1 is kinda main button on the controller). I started looking for what I did wrong and I've found this awesome thread) After comparing my board using microscope with scans I've discovered that this little guy https://imgur.com/a/NLbsyhz is missing. Would love to know its specs.

[RDC]

That's just a decoupling capacitor on a voltage rail, it has nothing to do with R1. The controller will still work 100% fine with is missing. The flex cable from the motherboard to the Trigger assembly is where I would look first, as it's easy to mess the contacts up on that thin cable if you are not used to working with it.

[Kraaz]

Houston i have problem.

One of my friends had an issue where the left analog stick got stuck in the upper - left position after being replaced. ( BDM - 20 )
He gave it to me to repair. I measured the voltages. The Y axis showed 1.814 volts, and the X axis showed 1.75 volts.
When I applied 1.814 volts to the X axis using a jumper, the right stick also got stuck,  in opposite the upper - right position.
I checked the traces and repaired some that were broken, but the issue persists. What could be the problem? I need a little help.

[RDC]

Stick pressed Up all the way could be Y-axis shorted to Ground or no power to Y-axis POT or MCU issue.

Stick pressed Right all the way could be X-axis shorted to power or no Ground to X-axis POT or MCU issue.

[Kraaz]

Stick pressed Up all the way could be Y-axis shorted to Ground or no power to Y-axis POT or MCU issue.

Stick pressed Right all the way could be X-axis shorted to power or no Ground to X-axis POT or MCU issue.

Thank you RDC, going to inspect.

[texpertx]

That's just a decoupling capacitor on a voltage rail, it has nothing to do with R1. The controller will still work 100% fine with is missing. The flex cable from the motherboard to the Trigger assembly is where I would look first, as it's easy to mess the contacts up on that thin cable if you are not used to working with it.

Thanks for the reply)
I've got the BDM-040 version, so R1 is on the same FPC as all other buttons. I've checked and cleaned the rubber part and the FPC itself, but it obviously didn't help. I tried to track the lines from R1 connect point on the motherboard, but it seems it does under the surface.

[RDC]

Check and clean the contacts of the FPC and motherboard, just use a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol. Also make sure the foam piece is still behind it.

[texpertx]

Check and clean the contacts of the FPC and motherboard, just use a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol. Also make sure the foam piece is still behind it.

Yep, already did all that, didn't help. I even tried to short the contacts on the motherboard to understand where the issue is (to exclude FPC), but it was so inconvenient and I didn't get clear readings...

[PiingPoong]

I Have a problem with my DualSense 5 BDM-040
It had a drift problem and they decided to change the analogue.
When they changed the analog it is tight to the left
https://ibb.co/hxN8q1Lm
unsolder the analog and the problem still persists
until I saw that these capacitors had been removed
My question is if putting those capacitors will fix the problem? And how much do those that are missing have to measure?

 
https://ibb.co/YTJyxwJG
https://ibb.co/xqzGwfb0

And when I wanted to change the analog, the capacitors broke.
it would be these 3
https://ibb.co/kstqqs9t

[RDC]

It will work fine with those capacitors missing.

Looks like the plating has been torn out of the holes and the LSX POT is not getting power now, possibly the LSX line isn't connected as well. Install a jumper wire to connect the 2 marked spots together and retest first.

[PiingPoong]

I replaced the 3 capacitors and made the bridge in the 2 points that you told me.
The Joystick works excellent
Thank you all very much

[Para81szs]

Hello, I have a problem with a BDM-20 motherboard. It doesn't start, nor is it detected. When I plug the cable into it, it makes two orange flashes and that's it, it doesn't detect the cable either: I changed the battery with a new one, checked the input connector if it is firmly attached to the board...has anyone else encountered this problem? thx

[Rbvn]

Kindy please help with those 2 capacitors values from BDM-010 controllee board.

Left analog button doesn't work and right trigger sometines not work. I see both was scratched by someone from board.
https://imgur.com/a/Objb32c

[TheOneForTheJob]

Hi, I got a question about the touchpad on dualsense as well as ds4. Do we know the pinout for the ribbon connector on it? I want to connect the touchpad to a i2c master to learn how it sends data, then once I understand it, I want to have a microcontroller stored in the controller that sends i2c data to the mainboard pretending to be the touchpad.

I'm just confused why the heck there are so many pins on the ribbon. Is it not just SDA, SCL, power, ground, touchpad button? Are they using multiple pins for power or smth?

[RDC]

Most power and ground are multiples on FPC cables.

You'll need to get the DMM out and a Logic Analyzer and wire it up to sus the exact pinout first.

The DS4 schematic for the JDM-055 will get you close on that one, but IIRC just like the motherboards, there were multiple versions of the touchpads as well. I didn't bother to go digging much deeper on that, but it seems to only have 4 control lines, probably I2C, RST and maybe an INT, but again, the LA is where you need to start there to determine what line really does what as the I2C lines alone wont be enough to mimic the touchpad. https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44645.0.html

The DS5 is the same deal, I know of at least 2 versions of that thing and they use different hardware. The CYTT210 or the MXT144U and neither have datahseets that are incredibly helpful.

[TheOneForTheJob]

Ended up deciding against the faking touchpad thing. I was initially wanting to do it so that I can send ultra specific locations of the touchpad via buttons connected to a microcontroller, so that remapping software on PC can differentiate those ultra specific locations and normal touchpad touches. This way I can get extra buttons that are not merely mimic-ing existing buttons on the controller, but are completely unique.

I realised I can just do what I did before, and just have the microcontroller operate as a bluetooth keyboard like I have done before, and can add unique inputs to the controller that way.

[Para81szs]

Hello, I have a problem with a BDM-20 motherboard. It doesn't start, nor is it detected. When I plug the cable into it, it makes two orange flashes and that's it, it doesn't detect the cable either: I changed the battery with a new one, checked the input connector if it is firmly attached to the board...has anyone else encountered this problem? thx

Has anyone encountered this problem?

[ToastyBoiii]

Hey guys)
When left stick started drifting i was so self-confident that tried to fix it by myself. Replaced both of them with some cheap Hall effect one from aliexpress and now they work perfectly, although desoldering was a real pain. But during first use I discovered that R1 button doesn't work at all and "adaptiveness" of L2 works a bit differently, which doesn't bother me much, but R1 is kinda main button on the controller). I started looking for what I did wrong and I've found this awesome thread) After comparing my board using microscope with scans I've discovered that this little guy https://imgur.com/a/NLbsyhz is missing. Would love to know its specs.

Hi there, I lost this little one while removing the joysticks. I'm assuming this is just a little decoupling capacitor, will it be ok if I just bridge it, or should I try and find a replacement? If so does anyone know what size these are, smd isn't my forte.

Also got a wierd issue with Adaptive Triggers. Did a hall effect mod recently after the pots of the old joysticks bit the dust. Also managed to loose the same decoupling cap like ^Kranex but figured it doesn't matter to much. Double checked every other component with the BDM-030 scan, everything else is still in place and hasn't really been touched. The adaptive triggers got way weaker in games that support them, first I thought it was just an update that screwd up some settings, so i tested the adaptive triggers through https://ds.daidr.me/. Putting the triggers on "Resistance" and amping up the "Force" to max they do still feel pretty powerfull (Don't know how they are supposed to feel usually, but they are firm enough to require decent force to press them down), way more powerfull than in-game.

Also saw a bunch off requirements to make sure the Dualsense Audio is enabled on Windows because apparently some games use the audio signal for the adaptive feedback.

I'm not sure if the hall effect sensors and the adaptive trigger signal is on the same line and now that I changed the component it screws up the voltage on that line making the feedback signal weaker. But it seems like im not the only one that has the adaptive triggers being infulenced by the hall effect mod. I'm not really sure how to fix this problem.