Rapid Fire Method (No Chip)

[Modded Matt]

so i have to run batterys in my controller, so i can't put my charger kit in it.
and no iam not banned from xbox live, i can play with another gamertag but not
with mine. let me know if something happened to you before. thanks joker

you can use the play and charge kit, but it wont rapid fire during charging, nor will it work if it is fully charged.

as far as the gammer tag? that is the strangest thing I have ever heard of???

[joker32774]

you can use the play and charge kit, but it wont rapid fire during charging, nor will it work if it is fully charged.

as far as the gammer tag? that is the strangest thing I have ever heard of???

ya i dont get it. so iam just going to buy a chip from here for 7.99 i think thats how much it is.
well thank matt peace out.

[jolyrojr]

Hello,

Ok, so I have now read every previous post on all 16 pages of this thread.

At this point this thread is like wading through limp noodles.  It starts by talking about using the led pulse to drive rapid fire, then talks about the kit they sell, then Modded matt keeps bringing up the rumble option, which the mods already commented how it is ok but not reccamended.

So there are 3 different methods, all mixed together, with people asking questions about one and getting answers on another...
This thread should be scrapped and reorganized into a new thread.  There is a lot of great info, but its totally drowning in verbal diarea.  If the mods want me to, id like to try my hand at making a new noob proof tutorial with everything all nicely organized...

I do have a question of my own though.  The first controller I did this to worked with no problems.  The second one is giving me a hard time.  I am getting a really odd result, which I have not seen anyone mention yet:

I used the 2nd point, not directly on the led.  Right off I lost led1 function.  By moving the wire a bit I did get the rapid fire to work.  So I tape the wire in place so it can stay just right, and I lose rapid fire.  I decided to resolder the wire.  I forgot to remove the battery pack, and the second I touched the solder point the led came back.  I put the wire on, the led went out, but now when I push the rf button, I get no action at all, EXCEPT that the button now apears to turn the led on instead of firing.  In this state, the rf = dim led, rt = fire, rf held then + rt = led bright.  OH, I forgot, also several times along the way, I have had some sort of error where the rt turns the controller off completely.  While it was like that, as long as I used the rf (when it was working) I could shoot fine, but the second I touched the rt, off.  Now I have not changed anything, and the left analog stick switches between dead and always on, even when I unplug the controller, my character moves forward.

Any idea what is up with that? 

EDIT:  The controller only shuts off when I hit a button IF I have the pnc battery in, with aa's it stays on.

[Modded Matt]

Jollyrojr, I completely agree this thread has gotten way out of hand, it is very long and confusing!!!

there are three methods I have tested and got the same results from all. this is a crappy mod to begin with. any serious modder should know to use a pic. this is like hot wiring your car, it will get you buy but its not the proper way to start it.

this thread is for a simple way to get rapid fire. It is in my opinion, that 99% of the people who do this are noob modders. nobody with that little experience should be directed to solder to the led or to the circuit board trace, for that matter. this is why so many guys are having trouble getting this to work, they are being directed or following instructions to do something that is beyond their skill level. which is why I direct most of them to do the rumble mod, if you follow my video and instructions, nothing can go wrong. like I said I have done it using all three points. the mods here stated some pages back that its not recommended to use the rumble due to stability. I dont agree is all I will say. due to the 5th amendment!!  LOL they are half right. with other mods, no dont use the rumble for anything, but with this one, you get the same exact results using either points of contact. this mod is unstable and spastic regardless. so it dont matter. 

as for your problem. look at the underside of the point on the board you soldered to, it is directly connected to the main chip of the controller. something has bleed from one trace to another, thus shorting out the controller. when it shuts off like that it is real bad. to be honest it sounds like you have damaged the main chip, or brain if you will. your controller now has brain damage, if its operable or not is 50/50. my suggestion to you would be remove everything you have done and see if the controller operates correctly, then start over, or buy a new controller.

I hate to say it dude, but this is the exact reason if someone is going to do this mod, they should use the rumble as I show in my video two posts back. use the plug wire to go to your switch, then you only have to make one solder connection on the controller, which is the easiest center pin connection.  

[802Chives]

By all means Jollyrojr, if you wish to make a new thread with more organized descriptions of the various methods for doing this rapidfire, go for it.  However, I would like you to work with modded matt as he is our expert in this modd and has taken it upon himself to make sure everyone gets it working.

What I would like to see is you guys working through PMs with this tutorial, so both of you can add to it and edit it and when both of you like what you have, post it.

Let me know if there is anything I can do to assist.

[bruceytots]

jolyrojr...

I have noticed that if one wire to the led and the other to the first pin for the right trigger (closest pin to ABYX buttons) the LED brightens, and if the lower pin, it goes off.  Also when I press my RF button when the controller is off it will turn the LED on to a dim glow.  This is probably not the case but, check to make sure solder or wire is not touching the other two pins, only the middle pin.  Also if it touches two the LED will turn off when you press the button.

[ScreamingSkulls]

Greetings everyone.....

I've been reading this thread for the last day and decided to try this on 1 of the controllers I have.....

Now I have 100% confirmed this controller is a old version board. I went to radio shack and picked up SPST Mini (275-1548) Momentary push button switch. I soldered one wire to the #1 LED and then soldered the other wire to the middle (2nd) solder point on the right trigger. Upon completion the results were sporadic, sometimes it worked sometimes it didn't but the controller disconnected continuously.

Now I decided to change the solder points to the right solder point of the rubble motor as suggested in this thread and got the same results.

What is weird is my vision of this rapid trigger would be trigger acted as single shot and pushing the switch would activate the rapidfire. What seems to happen is the trigger does not work at all UNLESS I push the switch in then rapid fire works but doesn't stop. Sometimes it will fire without pushing any switch or trigger. It seems to have a mind of it's own soldered both ways.

Can someone explain in detail the actions this mode should create and make any suggestions based on my postings. BTW I also tried to switch the wires, not knowing if that would matter, and got the same results.

Thanks for listening, errrrrr....I mean reading. 

- Chris

[Modded Matt]

first off, the switch you bought is crap be carefull not to over heat it. anytime I used these switches they fail.

as for the trigger not working and your push button firing rapid/disconecting/screen jumps sparaticly, this is what happens when the middle and bottom trigger pins are bridged together. check that and make sue the top and bottom posts are not touching at all. you are only making contact to the center pin.

when you push your button the screen should not move!! only your gun this is a sign of the bridge I spoke of above. another tell-tell is the trigger not working.

if you bridge the top and center pin it will fire on its own. 

of course to get the above results you must supply the 1.3v comming from the led, or else where, to center pin, then bridge the other conections.

I also noticed last night, that the supply side of the led reads at 3v and the discharge side reds at 1.3v. not sure how this would affect the workings yet, I would imagine greatly still testing (got sleepy and I work full time)

[ScreamingSkulls]

first off, the switch you bought is crap be carefull not to over heat it. anytime I used these switches they fail.

as for the trigger not working and your push button firing rapid/disconecting/screen jumps sparaticly, this is what happens when the middle and bottom trigger pins are bridged together. check that and make sue the top and bottom posts are not touching at all. you are only making contact to the center pin.

As expected you are very helpful....

Regarding the switch: That was the smallest switch 2 of my local radio shacks had. Can you suggest a certain model number from their site?

Regarding the trigger points: When i was soldering I did make a accidental bridge between 1 and 2 and some solder got on the board. I grabbed some desoldering braid and thought I got it all up. I'll try it again and if it doesn't help I'll grab another controller to ruin. That should make the wife happy...lol.

BTW I sent you an e-mail from your store front contact form regarding work (in case you didn't get it)

[Modded Matt]

for this mod, this is my choice http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508  it is revy comfortable and large so you dont miss it when in a rush. it looks big, but if you drill a 1/2 hole for it it will sit very nicely. they come in red or black. I can post some installed pics tonight if you like.

BTW I sent you an e-mail from your store front contact form regarding work (in case you didn't get it)

I dont run the shop, thats king mikes dept.


***edit***
the switches I linked you to should be avail at any rat shack. they cost more though like $2.50 or 3.00 USD ea. but if you think about it, it will be worth it just in the comfort, not to mention the reliability

[ScreamingSkulls]

I grabbed a new controller and was precise on tacking one wire to the middle trigger pin and to the red pin of the rumble connection. I had the same results with random shooting, fire trigger not working on it's own and continuously firing without pushing any buttons.

Now my other question, does this mod work with all games? I have only tested in COD:WAW. Would that have an affect on it not working properly?

[Modded Matt]

I grabbed a new controller and was precise on tacking one wire to the middle trigger pin and to the red pin of the rumble connection. I had the same results with random shooting, fire trigger not working on it's own and continuously firing without pushing any buttons.

Now my other question, does this mod work with all games? I have only tested in COD:WAW. Would that have an affect on it not working properly?

theres now way dude, please post pics. test the switch for continuity and make sure it is releasing when you let go of the switch.

as far as COD5 this mod will not work it is too fast. but you should not get the results you are describing.

[ScreamingSkulls]

Pictures: http://www.xperties.net/photos/v/pcs/360controller/

Larger pictures can be seen to the right by clicking on link "Full size: 2048x1536"

Testing the switch; Should I use a test light? I'll grab one of those switches you suggested but so far mod is not working, or at least tested only in COD5.

[Modded Matt]

Pictures: http://www.xperties.net/photos/v/pcs/360controller/

Larger pictures can be seen to the right by clicking on link "Full size: 2048x1536"

Testing the switch; Should I use a test light? I'll grab one of those switches you suggested but so far mod is not working, or at least tested only in COD5.

first off, great pics, everything looks very clean. everything appears to be in proper order. do you have a test light? or a voltage meter? I need you first test the switch, thest it just normally and wiggle it around a bit make sure it wont close on its own. then I need you to test the trigger pins. test all three pins middle to bottom, middle to top, top to bottom, none of these should have a close circut. (light on, or beep) I am scratching my head it is possible if over heated, the solder could have run under the board and making a connection under the board, betwen the board and the trigger???never heard of such, but the continuity test should tell us this.

Are you sure this is a matrix controller?

this mod will NOT work in cod 5 WAW. it is only good for uncoded games such as cod4 aw!!!! the cod 5 mod is much better, uses a pic. 

[ninjamanhunt]

Alright,  I didn't know my controller was a CG and modded it, now the right trigger won't work at all. Any suggestions?

[Modded Matt]

Alright,  I didn't know my controller was a CG and modded it, now the right trigger won't work at all. Any suggestions?

1. un mod it... try see if that fixes it.
2. it should still do something. tell me exactly what happens when you pull the trigger.
3. use a continuity tester to check continuity between the middle and bottom pins, while you are checking test the top aswell. there should be none. if you have continuity between any of these points, you have bridged the trigger pins together, the solder will need to be removed

let me know what you find during these tests, I am trying to help you fix this controller..., it may be bad and unfixable, but I will try to help you as long as you can help me. good luck

[ninjamanhunt]

thanks a bunch for the help. Alright, when I pull the r trigger absolutly nothing happens. The wires are not brigged for sure I tested it.  The rest of the controller works though, I have no idea what could have happened.

[majorahole]

it there any way to add a pot or resistor or something to slow the rate to make it cod5 compatible? that was the whole reason i did this, i didnt know they capped your fire rate. then i figured i'd just use it on halo3, but i read they do the same thing. any help is appreciated

[Zepher30]

Anyone tried this mod on games like, BF:BC... Left 4 Dead, and Gears 2? 

[2009]

Help...my led thing came off during soldering. any other place i can solder the ground? even the 2nd spot looks very tricky. i lost the led for player 1 but the controller still works. any ideas? thanks

[blackburn]

people please stop using this Rapid Fire as a solution to your needs... it simply WILL NOT WORK in any game besides CoD4 effectively......

[Modded Matt]

Help...my led thing came off during soldering. any other place i can solder the ground? even the 2nd spot looks very tricky. i lost the led for player 1 but the controller still works. any ideas? thanks

I think blackburn said it well enough...LOL

for the second spot you may need to lightly scrape around the hole. just very lightly scrape around it, removing the green coating. take a kitchen knife put the point in the hole and turn it. this will let the solder bond better. 

make sure you allways tin your wire before you solder to the led. or anywhere for that matter.

this is your last chance. good luck

[dark1pro]

frostBYTE!: This site likes to keep things legal. Please keep help us keep it that way.

[Modded Matt]

your controller now has brain damage i love this line out of all the posts i saw.
any who yeah i tried it its not simple and for the faint of heart, a lot of LEDs were lost out there in the world of war fight. And on that note i figerd bucket get a grip on it and pull the trigger as fast as u can and get better at it. but for those of u that wasted a good controller i have some bit of help.
Hears what u do,

Dude, this is not good!! what you are refuring to is fraud!! its agianst the rules here, and agianst the law. at the very least expect your post to be deleted.

[dark1pro]

 

[Modded Matt]

acctually, you are wrong. once you purchase something, its yours, you own the rights to it. you can do whatever you like with it. and we can tell you how to do it. what you cant do is mod it and then sell it for profit, which you admitantly did. expect a call from the FBI LOL!! due to my freedom of speach I can tell you to do anything, due to copyright laws I cannot do it for you.

what you were refuring to is completly different. what you want to do is comit fraud, and you are not ripping off bill gates as you state, you are ripping off the point of sale. once the product gets reviewed, it will be obvious you caused it to malfunction. most stores now days require you to sign for a returned item. I understand what and why you want to do this, but it is still aginast the law. it is also over $50 so it then becomes a felony. if we condone this and you do this with our knowledge, we will become an accessory to a felony.   

it is still agianst the rules here and will not be tolerated, as you can tell...What post?? where??

[360 nerd]

Hi,im unsure about something, for the LED 1 do i need 2 solder the wire touching LED 1 or near it, well you know how theres lines goin from each LED does it just have 2 be on that like between LED 1 and LED 3?Please answer back soon, i really want to do this.

[Modded Matt]

the line leeds to a small silver spot on the edge of the led attach it there

[360 nerd]

alright thanks

[untamedcheetah]

matt, will the rumble pack method work with fully charged bateries or a plug and play?


EDIT: also, can I use the other vibration motor so I can put the momentary switch on that side?