Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537 (Read 317619 times)

FTA · « **Reply #180 on:** February 15, 2017, 07:55:32 AM »

Hey RDC, thanks but, can I instead,solder longer wires to the 14-pin connector (J1), through 33 ohm resistors? If I'm correct, those two there are 33 ohm resistors. Also, you wrote in the fist post "data" is D+(#10) and D-(#12) and unless I'm wrong (probably I'am

), they should be #9(D-) and #10(D+) - am I numbering the connector pinout correctly, where the count starts and how it goes? And can I solder the +5v from the USB to pin #8 directly? Thank you again.

P.S. The upper leftmost pin should be GND, may be pin #13?

connormtully@gmail.com · « **Reply #181 on:** February 15, 2017, 01:05:09 PM »

I swapped the analog stick modules on my Xbox One controller, was too aggressive with solder braid and accidentally removed the solder pad circled in red on this picture. How should I go about resolving this problem? Is there a place somewhere else on the controller I can wire the pin to?

RDC · « **Reply #182 on:** February 16, 2017, 05:34:58 AM »

@ FTA - Pin 1 is marked (white dot) on the board, and the corner of the connector at pin 1 is also angled. So what you have marked as pin 7 is really pin 1 of the connector. Also, all of the odds are on one side, while the evens are on the other, so pin 14 in your diagram is really pin 2 there. Redo them that way, and you'll find the D+ and D- are on 10 and 12, like I have listed.

Yes you can just solder directly to the connector thru some 33ohm Resistors.

The USB 5v goes thru R1 before hitting pin 8 of the connector, but you can skip that and just go directly to pin 8 if you need.

@ connormtully - That spot is the AN+ for the Y-Axis POT. You can solder a short jumper wire from the spot just to the left of the X spot to the lead of the POT under it and get the AN+ back to it.

FTA · « **Reply #183 on:** February 16, 2017, 10:14:29 AM »

Thank you RDC

Cheers!!

RDC · « **Reply #184 on:** February 16, 2017, 03:07:02 PM »

Welcome.

FTA · « **Reply #185 on:** March 14, 2017, 04:03:27 PM »

RDC, another issue here

I finished the previous repairs and in the meantime replaced the LB switch with one from an xbox360 pad, and maged to play for many hours. But, the swich, suddenly stuck on "pressed". I desoldered it, but unfotunately, this time, with the pads (Only the yellow survived). So my question is, which of those, on the image are the important contacts to solder the new switch to - just the lower two (marked with the U-shape)? What is the yellow connected to, or just holding the switch leg there? Thanks.

RDC · « **Reply #186 on:** March 14, 2017, 04:25:44 PM »

The switch connections are the 2 on the right. The top Yellow circle is one (ground) and the bottom right green circle (connects to the pink trace for LB) is the other one. The 2 green ones on the left (both ground) are mainly mechanical for holding the switch in place.

FTA · « **Reply #187 on:** March 14, 2017, 06:56:00 PM »

Once again, thank you, for the thorough explanation

And something else, could there be a reason (beside damaged switch), for the circuit to be constantly closed for LB - just asking.

RDC · « **Reply #188 on:** March 14, 2017, 07:06:06 PM »

There would have to be a short, or even thru some Resistance, to ground on that LB line somewhere, or the MCU is bad.

FTA · « **Reply #189 on:** March 14, 2017, 09:22:48 PM »

Alright, thanks

Dante1475 · « **Reply #190 on:** September 06, 2017, 08:48:05 PM »

Hello everyone, I like to make a battery mod, but the 4 pin I don't know what are they functions, someone know that info?

These are the 4 pins I like to know they functions.

Sorry for my bad english.

RDC · « **Reply #191 on:** September 08, 2017, 03:20:17 AM »

Those 4 pins are for interfacing with the official battery pack, as it has active circuitry inside it, aka a 'smart' battery. If you plan to install your own rechargeable pack, then you will have to reverse engineer that interface and buying a new official pack would be a much better option there as that would be a mess of work and time.

If you want to make your own rechargeable pack, then I would just leave those 4 pins alone. All you need are the 2 main contacts that the AA batteries use, then recharge your custom pack externally.

Dante1475 · « **Reply #192 on:** September 08, 2017, 11:31:31 PM »

Quote from: RDC on September 08, 2017, 03:20:17 AM

Those 4 pins are for interfacing with the official battery pack, as it has active circuitry inside it, aka a 'smart' battery. If you plan to install your own rechargeable pack, then you will have to reverse engineer that interface and buying a new official pack would be a much better option there as that would be a mess of work and time.

If you want to make your own rechargeable pack, then I would just leave those 4 pins alone. All you need are the 2 main contacts that the AA batteries use, then recharge your custom pack externally.

Ok, I guess is better buy a battery, all this began when my litio battery hace more mah than p&c lipo battery, but I follow your advice.

To bad I can take 5V for the charger module.

Christian87 · « **Reply #193 on:** September 19, 2017, 07:14:25 AM »

Hello everyone. Hope all is well. I believe I'm in the right place. I purchased an Arduino micro in hopes of making my Xbox one controller rapid fire. I can't afford any other alternative really. I have flashed the Arduino successfully with the source code. The video I watched on how to do it the guy was using a Xbox one s controller. Mine being the generation 2 controller the soldering points differ. I've tried to reach him numerous times but he hasn't responded. This is why I looked around the internet for help. I came across this post on the Xbox one controller boards an such. Thought you might be able to help me. The picture I'm attaching are the points I need to find in my controller, the other is just the points on the Arduino

dreeandree77 · « **Reply #194 on:** November 01, 2017, 01:10:09 PM »

Hello,

Open burn XB1 Controller:

Please correct me if wrong.

U1 - MP2161GJ ?

Q6 and Q7 - DMG3415U ?

D22, D23 - diodes i don't know? mark ( V1 )

SparQzz · « **Reply #195 on:** July 11, 2018, 08:14:44 AM »

Hey guys, have a question for anyone still alive on here. I added 2 back buttons to my controller rb and lb, ran the wires from the third pin in from joystick top row on j5 and 6. Ran independent grounds from to 21 and tp22. Those buttons work fine. All my other controls work fine. Except for.... My A button. It's now either Y or A and Y. (I did try to install an arsenal mod chip without success I didn't have a tip small enough to do that. So I went with direct wire route instead.). Any insight into this would be fantastic. Thanks in advance!

RDC · « **Reply #196 on:** July 11, 2018, 08:38:12 AM »

@ dreeandree77 - Sorry I didn't see this any sooner. U1 is correct, Q6 and Q7 I crossed to SSM3J328R, but either of them should work. D22 and D23 just seem to be some typical Rectifier diode, 1N4001 or the like.

@ SparQzz - No idea what the issue is there as the explanation of it makes no sense. The A button doesn't seem to work, but it's not either Y or A and Y, what does this mean? If you have anything installed in there the first thing is to remove it and then see how the controller acts.

SparQzz · « **Reply #197 on:** July 11, 2018, 08:53:33 AM »

@RDC it was meant to say "NOW" not "NOT". The button is now registering as Y instead of A. I didn't get the chip installed bc I couldn't get my tip down onto the pads well enough. So it was never installed really. Just melted the plastic on the connector a TINY bit. I never touched any A or Y point at any time.

RDC · « **Reply #198 on:** July 11, 2018, 09:05:55 AM »

All I can make out in that image there is that you have blurry pixels between all of the solder joints.

That's also a 1697 version board, not a 1537, same pinout on the connectors though.

Was the top board lifted or solder on at all?

So if..

Pressing A = Y

..then..

Pressing Y = ?

Pressing Y and A = ?

drenon · « **Reply #199 on:** July 18, 2018, 06:11:34 AM »

So me and the housemate wee playing away on Skyrim last night when we started to run into some pad issues. The triggers seamed to be miss behaving and after a bit of basic trouble shooting we decided to call it a night and check in the morning. With no success on PC or on Xbox to get it working and hearing something rattling around inside we decided to strip it down.

Inside we found that a screw had broken free and got stuck on the magnet for the holofix sensor and when we went to attack or use that button it has caused some damage on the PCB itself. Using my 'decent' knowledge of electronics and troubleshooting I think I have narrowed the cause down and I am here now to ask for some advice.

The SMD capacitor C38 has no reading for me with a capacitance read, leading me to believe that the capacitor has died and is causing the trigger to register as always on now.
The damaged traces around the area all have continuity and connections seam fine.
Resistor R42, the one next to the capacitor, is reading at 20Momh which for me I suspect is too high, maybe that had failed as well.

Is it possible for anyone to provide me with the correct components to repair these with myself, or at least readings so I can get similar or possibly give me a hint if I am chasing a lost cause.

Thanks for your time!!

RDC · « **Reply #200 on:** July 18, 2018, 06:40:15 AM »

C38 and R42 make up the RC filter after the Hall sensor. While the Capacitor in that circuit isn't super critical, the Resistor is.

C38 = 470nF, 0402
R42 = 100ohm, 0402

saulveloz · « **Reply #201 on:** September 04, 2018, 03:47:26 AM »

Hey guys, so my A and Y button are pressed all the time, check the j1 j5 pinout and reflowed nothing, i'm kinda stuck
I don't know what else i can check with the multimeter or a bridge

RDC · « **Reply #202 on:** September 04, 2018, 09:37:22 AM »

No power to the controller, then Ohm out the A and Y lines to ground and see what they measure, also do X and B for comparison.

If it's 1 ohm or less, there's a short somewhere for sure, but even a few k will still probably register as a button press. I've not tested the limits there, but there isn't much between the buttons and the MCU.

123XYZ123 · « **Reply #203 on:** September 20, 2018, 01:47:22 AM »

Hello guys,

Have a Xbox One controller which doesn't want to power up when connected to USB. When on batteries it blinks twice and goes off.

I disassembled it and when I connect the board to usb charger, U1 chip gets immediately hot, as does the D23 and then other components around it obviously. However, I think the D23 heats up first. At the beginning I think C6 is the cause, removed it but still the same.

The voltage ⚡ on U1 is as follows :

Pin 1- 0v
Pin 2- 0.67v
Pin 3- 0.36v
Pin 4- 0v
Pin 5- 0.36v
Pin 6- 0v
Pin 7- 0.08v
Pin 8- 1.08v

I saw what the right voltage looks like in this thread, this one definitely doesn't look right

Im a noob and don't know much, so what could I try. To remove the U1? How to test the diode on D23 if it's needed? Or might something else be the cause?

Checked the diode with continuity without taking it out, looks normal. Shows 1,when reversing shows about 220.

Thanks in advance

https://ibb.co/dbe04z
https://ibb.co/k9awcK
https://ibb.co/eHjpxK
https://ibb.co/kaPBBe
https://ibb.co/gYcbcK

RDC · « **Reply #204 on:** September 20, 2018, 02:12:16 AM »

U1 is toasted and needs replaced to start with, it's an MP2161. While it is off the board, you can check D23 with any half decent DMM (Digital MultiMeter) as it will have a Diode test feature.

You'll need to be a bit more careful when removing U1 versus if it were fine, as I can tell the thing has already been far too hot and started to burn the board as well as toast the solder joints, which can practically weld them to the pads and then the pads and sometimes traces just all end up coming off with the component. So that could go from a fairly easy repair (replacing only U1) to a real pain to repair (replacing U1 and doing a lot of trace repairs to reconnect everything) to just being a parts board pretty quick.

123XYZ123 · « **Reply #205 on:** September 20, 2018, 02:24:29 AM »

https://ibb.co/gVXCjz

Thanks for the fast response.
This is the only multimeter I have. I tested the diode with continuity, shows 1 in one direction and about 220 in another, without removing it from the board. Can I call that a test?

What's your suggestion for removing the U1, should I use hot air or soldering iron? Also, assuming the U1 is the only faulty component, when removed which voltage should I have on U2 and U3?

Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #206 on:** September 20, 2018, 02:30:43 AM »

That meter is fine, as long as you get a different reading both ways is should be alright.

You could use either method for removing it, though you'll want to try and heat every lead at the same time for the best results, so with the hot air that's easier. I'd also flux the leads of that thing up to help soften that roasted solder. If you don't have any flux, then get the iron and flow some new solder onto the leads as the flux that's in it will be better than nothing.

123XYZ123 · « **Reply #207 on:** September 20, 2018, 02:41:11 AM »

I do have flux.
Just, is there a way to be sure only the U1 is faulty without a new one in the board? I can't get a new one for at least 30 days, because the shipment is slow and I doubt that I can find one in my country.

RDC · « **Reply #208 on:** September 20, 2018, 02:46:19 AM »

All U1 really does is charge the PnC battery pack and knock the USB 5v down for U2 and U3, so it should still work off of batteries with U1 removed.

123XYZ123 · « **Reply #209 on:** September 20, 2018, 03:30:17 AM »

Ok I will remove it and see. Do I have to put back the C6?

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537 (Read 317619 times)