XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537

[RDC]

I did mention that could happen.


You'd only need a single DPST (Double Pole Single Throw) switch in there to pull that off if you wanted to get into it.

You also only need 2 Resistor for the whole mess in there, as both Stick boards can be powered from the same Resistors.

After that, you'd just wire it all up with the 2 Resistors in there, then have the DPST switch wired across the Resistors. When the switch is on, the voltage and ground go straight thru it to the Stick boards, just like nothing was ever done to the controller, then after the controller starts up, you can flip the switch and the contacts will open up putting your Resistors in line to the Stick boards.

DPST shown in the closed position.

[MDave]

Thanks again for the help! When I come to revisit this mod, and when I have money to buy the hardware to make it possible, will take another crack at it!

I don't have the experience with using something like a dremel to perfectly fit a switch into the case, hah. By the time I have invested the money into a mod like this, I might as well have got a proper Xbox One-like controller that has the Bluetooth and other features I was after to make it usable across many different devices and hardware. But I don't think such a thing exists, with this iPega 9037 being the closest I came across. I'm sorry if I derailed this forum thread with my stuff on that. I would probably destroy a few controllers along the way, with one I already sort of broke.

The iPega 9037 is a good controller to modify though! At least to use the plastic casing. If I could make my own internals and PCB's, and could throw in the high quality components the Xbox One controller uses, I would be happy. But I am a ways off that dream!

I'm a software developer first, and a hardware modder dead last hah.

http://www.third-helix.com/2013/04/12/doing-thumbstick-dead-zones-right.html

This is useful stuff I came across for software developers to try and mitigate stick deadzones and sensitivity issues, will implement in one of my current projects and see how well that works with the controller.

Cheers again RDC!

[RDC]

Welcome.

You don't really need a Dremel to drill a hole, and you don't even really need a drill, just the bit, a little tape and some elbow grease would do, it's plastic, not Titanium.

I've been to that site before, and it's all good if you're the one coding everything, but when you're trying to make Sticks work better on crappy controllers, it's not really of much help at all. The code could be spot on and use ever decimal place in the float, but then you have the tolerance of the POTs on the Stick, and the nasty mechanical tolerance of the things deal with, which is where really most of the issues come from. Those things never return to center when released, and are different when released fast or slow, and from one side to the other, plus no 2 are every exactly alike and then the more they get used the worse they get. Then the best part, the more you screw around with the Dead Zone, the more you inadvertently mess with the max ranges. So there is always this see-saw battle going on to get them just right, and then when you do, or close enough, you'll be the only one that likes them that way as no 2 gamers are the same either.

The XB1 controllers are calibrated after they are built (just from my observations of how they work) as the controller is always looking for those original Stick jvalues for center. Then if you have a Stick go bad, and sooner or later you will, you're in for a real mess. You can't even SouthPaw one without it being all out of whack, unless you get very, very lucky and have one where the Sticks were close enough initially in value that the calibration they do on them isn't too far off when they're swapped.

[scharfe1]

Hope this is an ok place to post this.

I have an xbox one controller, one of the connectors that join the boards had a cold solder and fell off yesterday, I managed to fix the connector but looks like a transistor blew up too.

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Any idea what Q8 could be?

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Thanks
Bob

[RDC]

It's a run of the mill PNP Transistor, MMBT3906.

[scharfe1]

It's a run of the mill PNP Transistor, MMBT3906.

RDC, you are my hero  , will any MMBT3906 in the correct package size work then? Don't suppose you know the package size, looks like it might be a SOT523?

[RDC]

Yeah it's an SOT-523, -416 or -490 package, they're all pretty much the same size. SC-75 or SC-89 will fit also.

1 - Base
2 - Emitter
3 - Collector

That doesn't mean it will fix it, as there could be something else on the board there that caused that to blow up, or it could just be mechanical damage that was done to it.

[oxonater]

Hi everyone newbie here, just wondered if anyone has experienced a no sync problem with the x1 controller, is there a particular chip that could be at fault on the mcu board any help greatly appreciated thanx OXY.

[scharfe1]

Thanks again RCD, I replaced the part, an its still dead, guess something else is down. Past my knowledge base haha.

Oxanater, I have no I idea the answer but I have two controllers with the same issue, would be nice to know.

[RDC]

@sharfe1 - If you know for a fact the issue is on the power board there, it's not too difficult to troubleshoot it with a DMM, but it's also easier to just swap the board out with a working one.

Have you all plugged the controller directly into the XB1? I haven't messed with that particular issue before, but on the 360 doing so with the PnC cable would force the controller to sync and sometimes correct a no sync issue, worth a try if it hasn't been already.

If that doesn't correct it, then the Sync button is what I'd check first, as it's a Tact like any other and prone to fail sooner or later. Even though it may 'click' that's no guarantee it's making a connection internally. If the switch is good, and all of it's traces to the MCU, then it's either the MCU or RF module that would be at fault, not really much you could do in either case there.

[oxonater]

Hello thank you for your responses

It does indeed work whilst connected to the X1 but strangely enough still will not sync, light flashes as if it wants too and you can see the IR leds flashing however still no sync. I have traced all connections to the MCU and all seem intact, seems to be more of a no signal issue.

Just wondered if anyone new the particular component that controls the signal between controller and console.

Thanx Oxy

[scharfe1]

@rcd  - Tried plugging it into the xbox directly, still didn't work. It might be a bigger issue than just syncing, As soon as you put batteries in it the home button (white button with x symbol) just flashes forever, can't even turn the controller off. Thanks again for all the help, it is very much appreciated.

Im thinking about trying to take my no power controller's top board that has the sync button and wireless on it and put it with the bottom board of the no sync controller. Only thing is they seem to be different generations. Not sure if it will work haha.


 

[RDC]

The boards between the 1537 and 1697 are pretty much the same, but they turned the LB/RB buttons around on the 1697, so you'd have to use the frame from that one.

[SchwarzerAfri902]

Heyho from Germany,

I was looking through the net to solve my problem and i think that you could my last hope that saves me from buying a new controller for my best friend.


A few weeks ago, the right stick was moving up all time after a fell of the controller. I decided to buy a new stick unit and change it as is have some little soldering skills. I'm aware of the calibration problem but i did it on 2 models before and both went good.

My problem now is that during removal of the old unit, at least one soldering pad from the x axis of the stick ripped off.

From my skills and your Pictures, il could already figure out where the middle of the 3 pins "goes to", but thats the good pad left there, my problem has to be at one of the sided solder pads.
I cant figure out where the lanes run along, from bottom view i think they go from the pads left and right directly to thetiny holes above, or?

So i would be very happy if you could give me an image or can name/show me a point where incan solder the right/left pin for the rights stick x axis pins. So i can see where those 3 lines run along.

Sorry for the horrible grammar, i'm pretty rusted since schooltime.

[RDC]

Looking at the bottom of the board, like in the images, under the Right stick, the left/right pins are AN+ and Ground.

AN+ | X | GND

You can just jumper the AN+ and GND to the Y-axis POT connections on the stick. On the Y-axis it's..

GND
Y
AN+

Code: [Select]

  O      O
G         o  o
Y
+         o  o
  O      O
   + X G


[czerstwy]

I know that you are intrested about gamepad boards, but maybe you can help me.
Can you tell me anything about integrated circuits on Play & Charge board? I can't find anything about them (these short symbols...). I need especially info about circuits between 3V output and battery pins.

[nlh92]

Hi,

I want to use this controller wireless and power it without plugging in a USB cable. Where would I connect a 5v or 3.3v cable and ground to power it on?

Thank you!

[Da 59 fragger]

Sorry if this has been asked before. But anyone know if at all possible to hardwire a usb headset, plantronics gamecom 780, to the stereo adapter? I've been searching for a while through the internet and can really find anything.

[Modded Matt]

no

[joacmart]

Hey. I did the remapping as per the tutorial... worked great until I decided to put in better buttons.. I soldered to d14 but the wire came off an took the point with it is there a way to fix this, the b button doesn't work at all because of this...  help

[RDC]

If you've torn the pad off at D14, then the B trace is now open, so that's why it's dead. You'll need to prep and solder to the via that is to the right of where that pad was, then do the same on the left side at the B trace and then connect the two.

[FTA]

Hi,
I have some question about making new terminals for using my controller with usb cable. The situation is as follows: The USB port started degrading and losing connection. Decided to replace it, but while removing the old one, destroyed the pictured traces and pads (see pic.). Now I want to solder 4 wire type A cable as shown on the diagram. I'm putting a bridge for the ground connection. Is there anything I'm missing? Is the wiring correct? Thanks.



P.S. Do I need to resolder the rumble motors, for controller to work?

[RDC]

You have the pinout correct, but there is no real need for that Ground jumper wire.

The Rumble motors do not need to be wired up for the controller to work.

[FTA]

Thanks for the answer, I just managed to solder the wires, with the bridge (it was prior your answer) . The drivers are installing, but with error code 37 "Windows cannot initialize the device driver for this hardware.", and the LED on the other side is not lit. I did reinstalled the driver several times, but still not properly starting. I had bad connection on D+, so will solder it better. And 2 more questions, should I remove the GND bridge, and what does the fourth trace on the micro USB pads? I read something about ID signal or something, or for OTG connection, do I need to do something about it?

[RDC]

There's no point in removing the ground jumper if it's already installed.

The 4th pin is for the original USB cable's LED, explained in Reply #7 of this thread. Just leave it unconnected.

Without seeing the controller, I can only guess you have something shorted, not connected properly or there is more damage somewhere that needs repaired.

[FTA]

There is nothing else modded, soldered or broken. If the problem persist, will make some photos of the PCB to discuss. Alright, thank you, RDC.

[FTA]

Hi again, I did managed to solder the wires and the controller is recognised correctly, but the D+ is very unstable - the space is too small and the trace will rip off from the pcb. Can I solder the wire somwhere else on a bigger trace?

[Wily91]

Hello. Anybody cand tell me the D23 and C6 and U1 value from the mainboard?

[Wily91]

 Hello. I got my xbox one for 1 week. When I installed the batteries in the controller and started to set up the console I found that the battery door was getting warm to the touch. I immediately opened the door and took put the batteries which were so hot by this time I couldn’t hold them, after the light on the controller would blink twice and then shut off. I's a brand new xbox one s controller. I opened the controller and i found this problem. the controller work well but is overheating after 10 second and disconect.

http://imgur.com/a/I5hSQ I can't atach normal the picture.

[RDC]

Sorry guys, didn't know there were replies on here.

@ FTA - The top of R2 and R3 there are D- and D+ respectively. USe a bit of hot glue to hold the wires on the PCB, but not right on top of the solder joint in case you ever need to rework it.

@ Wily91 - Replied to your PM about the board damage there.