Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537 (Read 317613 times)

RDC · « **Reply #210 on:** September 20, 2018, 03:32:45 AM »

Nope.

123XYZ123 · « **Reply #211 on:** September 20, 2018, 10:33:51 AM »

I took it out, it looks really bad, the chip and the board, don't think I could solder a new one there. Anyway, now the joystick does blink more often when batteries are in and when I hold the wireless button it does start to blink faster. Unfortunately I do not have a xbox console, the joystick is from a friend. Is there a way to test is without the console? I turned it on and connected to USB to the laptop and it did find it, until it went of after a while, like it cant find a connection and goes off. I tried to find it with laptops Bluetooth but it didn't see it, also tried with the Bluetooth of my phone and PS4.

RDC · « **Reply #212 on:** September 20, 2018, 11:23:05 AM »

If it loses USB connection or the USB is unplugged, the controller will blink as it's trying to then connect over wireless and after 35 seconds or so that times out and it shuts off.

Plug in the USB cable to the controller, then into the PC, and then press the Guide button to turn the controller on. It should turn on, solid light, and the PC should detect it and it should stay on. If it does not act that way, then the controller most likely has some other issues, as I have one sitting here now connected over USB that I just removed U1 from and it's working, albeit with batteries over USB, but it's working.

123XYZ123 · « **Reply #213 on:** September 20, 2018, 11:52:05 AM »

It works

Thanks a lot

RDC · « **Reply #214 on:** September 20, 2018, 08:34:34 PM »

Welcome.

rafaliyo86 · « **Reply #215 on:** September 21, 2018, 06:46:05 AM »

Hi guys

Long time I don’t post in the forum. I have bought a faulty (without knowing it) xbox one controller. It has drift problem in the right stick.

I have seen some ways to “fix” this problem like: clean the stick, replace the pot or replace the stick

I tried using a contact cleaner in the stick and it worked for a few minutes but after that it failed again.

So I suppose it would be better to replace the stick or replacing the pot would be enough?

I ask this because I have seen you can replace the pot without using the soldering iron (this would be easier)

Model is 1708, thanks in advance

RDC · « **Reply #216 on:** September 21, 2018, 09:30:52 AM »

You are not replacing the POT without a soldering iron, unless you used a hot air setup, and then you're just splitting hairs there. Even if it is replaced, that's no guarantee that it will stop drifting. Those things are calibrated after they are put together, so even if you took a 100% brand new and perfectly working controller and installed a different brand new stick in there, odds are it would drift or at least be off some versus the original one that was in there before.

You can try swapping sticks, but all you'll be doing there is causing an issue on the other Axis of the stick and having two problems instead of just one.

The only way to 'easily' correct it is to adjust the POT on the stick housing, and you will need a soldering iron and X-actlo knife for that.

Desolder the 3 POT leads from the board.
Unclip the POT from the stick frame.
Cut the 2 posts in the corners of the POT, do not cut the clips on the sides as they are what hold the POT onto the frame.
Clip the POT back onto the frame.
Now that those posts are cut off, there will be some adjustment room in the POT before you solder it back in place.
Adjust it in the direction that it was drifting, that is if it was drifting to the Right, then turn the POT just a little bit to the Right, then solder it back in place and test.
You may need to do the last couple of steps a few times, so take it easy with the soldering iron so the pads don't get damaged.

rafaliyo86 · « **Reply #217 on:** September 24, 2018, 05:15:27 AM »

First of all thanks for the reply RDC

Soldering is not a “problem” actually but it is better if I dont have to do it XD.

These are the parts you mean ?(to cut off):

RDC · « **Reply #218 on:** September 24, 2018, 06:29:18 AM »

The posts that need cut off are on the other side of the POT and in 3 of the 4 corners.

rafaliyo86 · « **Reply #219 on:** September 24, 2018, 06:51:39 AM »

Ok these ones then: (sorry to ask again and again but thw word “posts” in my language have no sense in this context)

Once I remove them I could “adjust” a bit the POT then. Do you recommend me to try first replacing the whole POT or do what you say directly?

I have seen many videos on youtube and this one is the closet what you mean I think

https://youtu.be/ywYuTheUUss

RDC · « **Reply #220 on:** September 24, 2018, 07:17:47 AM »

Yes those are the posts.

That video is not how I correct the drifting. All that is doing is bending the internals of the stick mechanism. You can use either method, it all does the same thing in the end really.

figo1818 · « **Reply #221 on:** September 27, 2018, 12:56:18 PM »

Apologies I know this is off topic question but I recently damaged the C21 and C25 capacitor from the right axis stick, can somebody let me know the values or reading of these two capacitors so I can buy them and therefore solder into the PCB?

Thank you very much!!!

RDC · « **Reply #222 on:** September 27, 2018, 02:31:00 PM »

Both are just for decoupling and you'll never notice they are missing.

C21 - 1uF (1000nf)
C25 - 0.01uF (10nF)

figo1818 · « **Reply #223 on:** September 28, 2018, 02:42:17 AM »

Thank you very much for you prompt reply!, I thought those capacitors helped to someone calibrate the axis module... see attached pictures

As you can see there is a noticeable difference between the right and left axis (the left is the original one) it is like the right axis is sightly to the left and up, to be honest the control during game works perfectly fine.

Here is the module I used:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3D-Controller-Joystick-Axis-Analog-Sensor-Module-Replacement-for-Xbox-One-1/291628285291?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I will place these two capacitors and see what happens, I will keep you guys updated.

RDC · « **Reply #224 on:** September 28, 2018, 03:07:40 AM »

Replacing the Caps will do nothing for calibration, they are just for decoupling. Every controller is calibrated after it's built to the sticks that it was made with, and when you change sticks, or even remove the same one and reinstall it, then it's going to be off a little bit. If it's not drifting in any games then consider yourself lucky, but with it being off that much I'm sure you'll run across a game sooner or later that will be more picky about it.

figo1818 · « **Reply #225 on:** September 28, 2018, 03:37:13 AM »

well in that case I would not be changing the capacitors, is there any way to calibrate the controller?

RDC · « **Reply #226 on:** September 28, 2018, 03:48:04 AM »

Not that I'm aware of, but M$ should implement it in some controller/dashboard update, as this was something you could do on the N64 controller over 2 decades ago. If you want to get it nearer to the original values, then you have to modify the POT on the stick and try to get closer to that calibrated center value manually, as mentioned a few posts above.

rafaliyo86 · « **Reply #227 on:** October 12, 2018, 01:41:31 AM »

Hi

I have been trying to log in a few days and I have gotten today

RDC, I fixed the controller just replacing the pot, lucky me

Thanks for the help

case · « **Reply #228 on:** January 10, 2019, 03:12:03 AM »

Hiii, i just want to say thanx to RDC.

With the help of your scans i was able to build a nice keyboard with a build in controller for combos on the number pad. i only had trouble to power up the board with the connection from J2 so i soldered directly to the power button on the power board.

RDC · « **Reply #229 on:** January 10, 2019, 04:29:10 AM »

@ rafaliyo86 - Welcome.

@ case - Welcome, glad it helped out.

What issue did you have with J2 though? If you were wiring up your new Guide button directly to the J2 connector, pin 6, that will cause an issue because the Guide button goes thru a Diode before it gets to that pin. So if you were to wire Guide directly to J2 it wouldn't work correctly without putting a Diode in there first, but wired to the actual Guide button contact it would.

case · « **Reply #230 on:** January 10, 2019, 07:17:25 AM »

no issue really, i just thought i could power up the controller with J2/p6 but it only activates the guide function. Now you tell me there is a diode between the button on the power board and j2 i understand why i had to solder my power-on-button to the button on the power board. I didn't solder any of the connections to j2 or j1, i used thin one wired IDE cable, they are thin enough to just stick in J5 & J6 and then press the boards together. I haven't been soldering since nearly 25 years, so, better save than sorry.

For soldering the B-button, ground and the needed TP7 for power i used a usb powered soldering needle, great for pcb, i only grilled the pads from the smd LED. LoL

RDC · « **Reply #231 on:** January 10, 2019, 07:37:17 AM »

Gotcha. Yeah that Diode in there will not let the controller power up from pressing it wired that way, because Guide will then be on the Anode side of D27 in there, so when pressing it the Guide button will work, but it will block that ground signal from when you press the Guide button to make the controller turn on. So that Guide button needs to be on the other side of D27 to get the thing to fire up.

Jarhead · « **Reply #232 on:** March 06, 2019, 03:29:34 PM »

Hello there, I need the value for the R44 resistor. Can anyone help me?

Another question: I replaced a stick and noticed, that I can run it without drifting, BUT a small radius around the middle position is "numb". I can move the stick a bit and it would not register.
The stick I received differs a little bit from the one that i desoldered. Mainly noticeble on the bottom of the stick. Are there minor differences in stick versions and do they matter performance wise?

RDC · « **Reply #233 on:** March 06, 2019, 03:47:46 PM »

R44 is 33k

That 'new' stick sounds a bit knackered to me. Technically they're all the same, 10k POTs and mechanically not much different, but some are just better than others based on the luck of the draw. The original ones are made by ALPS, and that should be stamped into the metal on it, if it's not then it's for sure some 3rd party crap one. They also have a grey base while the DS4 ones have a blue base. It's usually best to get them from a board that was scrapped for parts, so they're at least unused but the correct sticks. Barring that method, getting a couple of those things when replacing them is usually best in case you get one that acts a bit off after installing it.

Jarhead · « **Reply #234 on:** March 06, 2019, 07:49:45 PM »

Thank you very much, fortunately I was abled to find that tiny resistor after moving on the floor equipped with a flashlight. Only took me 2 hours of exausting frustration...

The ones I got are also ALPS, but the stamp on the side is not 34 xx but 33 xx. And the bottom side looks like it has been done with another mold.

My issue is, that the output value does not move in small movements, but then skyrockets up to 1 and -1 even tho the stick can still be moved a bit.
So basically from 0 - 100% tilt it starts to show a value great er than 0 at about 20% and reaches full output at maybe 80%.

After I switched the positions of the replacement and the remaining original stick, the issue moved with the replacement stick. I bought a pack of 2 an both do this weird nonsense.

RDC · « **Reply #235 on:** March 07, 2019, 03:02:48 AM »

You can try putting the POTs from your old original stick onto the new one. They just clip onto the sides, unless that's the part that was worn out on them. Usually the mechanical parts of the stick just get all ground up and they fail that way, but I've seen the POTs disintegrate as well, so might only be a 50/50 shot there.

maiojm · « **Reply #236 on:** March 14, 2019, 11:06:39 PM »

Hello!

So I've recently decided to start repairing xbox one controllers and stumbled upon your post. So i was trying to put a new LED on the circuit board and got it to light up but now my d-pad an triggers are malfunctioning. Is it possible that something I did near the micro USB connection site could affect these things?

I looked at the traces and it seems like the pad underneath the home button is somehow attached to the joystick board (I'm guessing this is where my triggers and d-pad are messing up).

If you could offer any insight on this matter, it would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. My controller model is a 1697. Does this make a difference?

Thanks,
Jonathan

RDC · « **Reply #237 on:** March 15, 2019, 01:44:38 AM »

Well none of that makes much sense. The LED is not near anything critical. The Triggers have nothing at all to do with the top board, and the D-pad traces are nowhere near the LED as all they do is run to the J1 connector and then the bottom MCU board that does all of the work.

If that controller for sure worked before messing with it, then the first thing to do is undo what you've already done and see if things get better.

The 1537 and 1697 top boards are pretty much the same, the 1697 just doesn't have the IR LEDs on it, so if you have a 1537 you can plug it on there and test how the Triggers and D-pad act with an untouched board to see which board really has the issue, because either that MCU board is screwy, or you've managed to short/break something that I haven't seen yet on the Button/Power board that's making it act that way.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #238 on:** April 25, 2019, 01:52:12 PM »

Can anybody help me to identify and order U10, U11 part?

My left is broken and need to replace.

How to order it somewhere, for ex. on Aliexpress?

Live one have 304 number on sot-23 body.

I know that Hall sensor, but can't find it.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #239 on:** April 25, 2019, 04:48:38 PM »

https://cdn.datasheetspdf.com/pdf-down/A/1/3/A1304-Allegro.pdf

Maybe this one

http://ecworld.ru/support/sdd/30.htm

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537 (Read 317613 times)