Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537 (Read 322227 times)

xboxonehelp · « **Reply #30 on:** December 02, 2014, 06:09:35 PM »

Which MCU leads are you talking about specifically? At this point I'd seem most confident in my ability to just solder from the button pad onto another spot directly onto another already soldered down point if at all possible. I'm sorry I'm seeming like such a noob, but I may have gotten a little over my head with this mistake.

RDC · « **Reply #31 on:** December 02, 2014, 06:33:39 PM »

There is only 1 MCU lead that is the B button, and it's marked with red as well in the pic.

xboxonehelp · « **Reply #32 on:** December 02, 2014, 06:42:07 PM »

Quote from: RDC on December 02, 2014, 06:33:39 PM

There is only 1 MCU lead that is the B button, and it's marked with red as well in the pic.

Is this the one you're talking about?

RDC · « **Reply #33 on:** December 03, 2014, 04:57:19 AM »

That is a connector, not an MCU, and that is the D-pad Down trace, it's red with a black dot. The MCU is on the bottom of the main board.

xboxonehelp · « **Reply #34 on:** December 03, 2014, 07:47:55 AM »

Yeah shortly after posting that I realized how dumb that was and got it figured out. Now I just need to find a way to hide all the wires and still be able to close the controller and use the headset lol.

tawy · « **Reply #35 on:** December 18, 2014, 02:22:15 AM »

Hello, i'm hacking a xone pad to put it on an arcade stick. is it possible to make it flat without using the top board ? PCB can be powered via the J5 connector and each button too on J5 and J6.
i tried to connect J5 D+ D- (with 33ohm resistor) 5V and ground unsuccessfully to a usb port. does another pin needs to be connected ? maybe DETECT USB on J6 pin 7 ? if yes, it has to be grounded or powered ? i already read the whole thread on srk, nobody wants to hackpad it like this... using the top board is sure easier, but i want it clean.
thank you.

RDC · « **Reply #36 on:** December 18, 2014, 12:03:08 PM »

Can it be done? Yes. Should it be done? Not really, as it's just more of a pain than using the board that already has everything you need right there. It's an arcade stick, you have plenty of room to work with.

If you're wanting to go that route though, give this a try and see what happens...

J5 connections

1 - 3.5v (only needed if Rumble will be used)
2 - DR
3 - DU
4 - DD
5 - DL
6 - SY
7 - IR LEDs (use a NPN Transistors, do not drive LED directly from this pin)
8 - USB 5v
9 - LB
10 - USB D+ (33ohm)
11 - Not needed
12 - USB D- (33ohm)
13 - Ground
14 - USB Ground

J6 connections

1 - 3v (yes it's needed, the controller doesn't run on USB 5v alone, that top board has all of that crap on there for a reason)
2 - LED (use an NPN Transistor, do not drive LED directly from this pin)
3 - Ground
4 - 3.3v (yes it's also needed)
5 - RB (may need a 1N4148 across RB connections, Anode to Ground, Cathode to RB)
6 - GU
7 - Not needed
8 - A
9 - X
10 - Y
11 - MN
12 - VW
13 - PNC Detection (connect to Ground thru 25k or so)
14 - Ground

tawy · « **Reply #37 on:** December 18, 2014, 02:30:33 PM »

thank you for the answer.

the reason is not only because i want it flat and clean, also because i've bought a damaged xone pad with this problem :

so i remove all the pot, make it flat like that (i just dont understand why everybody use 5k resistor when it's already available)

and i dont want to find all the trace to repair the top pcb. it will certainly work, but i want to try to do something like a "light crossbone pcb"
i will try to make it on oshpark with all your recommandation and validate it by you if you agree.

RDC · « **Reply #38 on:** December 18, 2014, 05:23:33 PM »

Some people use Resistors, some don't, the ones that do use them versus leaving the POTs attached is it's cleaner looking, ironic huh? In the case of the XB1 controller though, I'd use the POTs since that thing is calibrated after it's built to those values, and you'll be able to adjust it out with the POTs on there before securing them versus using Resistors.

tawy · « **Reply #39 on:** December 19, 2014, 01:12:49 AM »

the only real pin needed to have the controller recognized by my xone/pc is to power the bottom PCB with 5V USB, 3V and 3.3V (with a ams1117 3.3 like), connect the ground and D+ D- on 33ohm ?
If i want to make it work only on USB powered, i have to cut this wifi trace (http://i58.tinypic.com/307oxnp.jpg).
can i ignore every IR and LED stuff ?

what is the PNC detection ?

3V (J6.1) is the 2xAA battery ? the controller can work without it... dont know if this pin powered if the battery is removed. i'll try on a test breadboard...
and i dont have plenty of room on my arcade stick (vshg)...

RDC · « **Reply #40 on:** December 19, 2014, 04:41:43 AM »

I didn't say anything about cutting any traces. No battery and plugged up with the USB cable makes it wired.

The LED is just feedback to let you know it's on.

The IR LEDs are so the controller can be tracked by the Kinect and I'd imagine might be required for some games, though I've no idea which ones are using it currently.

PNC detection is what it sounds like, so it knows if you have the PNC cable plugged in or not.

J6.1 is not battery power, it comes from one of the 3 power circuits on the top board. That thing is doing a lot more than just sitting up there with buttons on it.

tawy · « **Reply #41 on:** December 19, 2014, 05:08:27 AM »

cutting this trace is to avoid to turn on the xone on pushing the home button when connected to another system (or my computer) or if i want to dual mod it.
i just googled about pnc... it's play and charge. sorry ;-) i didnt know.

Methsman · « **Reply #42 on:** January 13, 2015, 06:53:51 AM »

Hello again mates.

This Thread helped me alot the last months, so i want to thank you all for the effort you put in here.

Thanks!

I just have a "small" problem with my controller. While i played the Halo 5 Beta, i noticed that my left analoge stick has some drifting to the right side. I tried it in the Internet Explorer, and saw that the cursor didnt move correctly to the left. I remove the faceplate of the controller, and saw that it just recognite the full movement when i press the stick fully to the left. When i hardly tilt it, it doesnt recognize it like when i do it with the right direction. I tried to plug it to the computer and calibrate it with some tools that i found on reddit. But its the same. So i think thats an Harware problem maybe.

Anyways, i decided to exchange the whole left stick with its module. ( i've done this once before with a broken one)

But yeah, its some difficult progress, because you have to suck the solder iron from the contacts of the stick, so you can pull it strongly out then.

But my problem is that some of the contact pads teared off, and i dont know excactly where to connect it properly to.

I have made a photo of it. On the left one, i found the joint next to it. So i'll connect it together.

my question is, does anyone have a plan how to sort this things out? I would.really appreciate it!

I ordered the sticks, so i think it will took about 2 Weeks till they arrive.

Thanks Guys!!

ps: Sorry for my bad english grammar :/

rafaliyo86 · « **Reply #43 on:** January 13, 2015, 07:19:11 AM »

I am not compeltely sure but maybe this help you. RDC is the the person who could help you better (wait for his answer)

You just have to scrap off the circled points

Modded Matt · « **Reply #44 on:** January 13, 2015, 10:09:54 AM »

in the pic above, #1 is just a mounting post. it is tied to ground, but does not need to be. it just holds the stick onto the board. #2 and #3 are correct.

But....

The xbox one controller sticks are cheap and have a bad offset that is calibrated and saved upon initial start-up. swapping the sticks has about a 99% fail rate due to this offset. RDC has made a chip to fix this offset, but I am not sure if he has went into full production. his fix requires cutting traces and soldering to small vias and traces. (not for the faint of heart)

Methsman · « **Reply #45 on:** January 14, 2015, 05:22:45 AM »

Thank you both for your fast answers! I'll try them as soon as i get my Analog Sensors.

@moddedmatt

Thanks for your comment. I have exchanged one stick on another controller because the plastik was broken. and i didnt notice any problems with it. But i didnt test it properly, because i sold it on the other day.

I will give you a shout, if it worked or not! Thanks mates!

Peace

LiquidKustoms · « **Reply #46 on:** January 30, 2015, 01:55:32 PM »

@RDC great job with the PCB scans! I worked with a really good friend of mine which is a PHD in electronic's & did all the traces 1 month after the release of xb1. Everything you have pointed out works great & I have been doing the trigger bypass @ the filters as you described for over a year now with no problems to date. Just wanted to let you know that all your work is awesome & everyone should really pay attention to the details that you point out!

RDC · « **Reply #47 on:** January 30, 2015, 03:17:52 PM »

Thanks and welcome. Did all the traces of what? I have no PhD friend here, nor one myself, and it took less than a week to schematic the entire controller once it was released, minus the RF board on it as I've no interest in that module for the time being.

Psychnah · « **Reply #48 on:** February 01, 2015, 09:58:38 PM »

Really hoping someone can help me.
My problem is that my B button is no longer working after remapping it, I also remapped A and it works great but B doesn't work on the controller pr the tact switch. I think my first mistake was soldering my contact from the tact to both connections at d14, and then I went to desolder them and lifted the pad on the top pin of d14, I haven't really attempted to repair it because I don't wanna screw it up anymore, but I may have because I scraped the carbon off the left side of the B contact pad and soldered my contact here to the tact still not working on the controller or the tact I can provide pictures if that helps. Thanks in advance!

RDC · « **Reply #49 on:** February 01, 2015, 11:07:09 PM »

Soldering to both spots at D14 would cause the B button to be pressed all of the time.

Ripping up the top pad of D14 is the problem now, as that has opened the B button trace, so soldering the new Tact to the B button contact would do nothing.

You need to solder a jumper wire form the left side of the B button contact, provided that it's not already ruined, to the first B button via now. If you ruin the Via on the top then you have 2 more on the top to attempt to get that right, if you ruin all of those then you'll have to connect it to the one on the bottom, if you ruin that you'll have to connect it to the lead on the MCU, if you ruin that then you're done. The entire B button line is traced out in the pics on the first page.

Methsman · « **Reply #50 on:** February 02, 2015, 02:21:32 AM »

Quote from: Modded Matt on January 13, 2015, 10:09:54 AM

But....

The xbox one controller sticks are cheap and have a bad offset that is calibrated and saved upon initial start-up. swapping the sticks has about a 99% fail rate due to this offset. RDC has made a chip to fix this offset, but I am not sure if he has went into full production. his fix requires cutting traces and soldering to small vias and traces. (not for the faint of heart)

Okay! You are right!

I have exchanged the Analog Sensor, and its the same! So i think there is no software solution for this.

It would be very cool, if we can do this on pc or so, but thats just wishes.

So i think i have to wait for some Tools to calibrate it.
Very sad, that they just put so less effort in this sticks. Because what i have read, there are many people with this problem though.

peace Meths!

Psychnah · « **Reply #51 on:** February 02, 2015, 07:34:38 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 01, 2015, 11:07:09 PM

Soldering to both spots at D14 would cause the B button to be pressed all of the time.

Ripping up the top pad of D14 is the problem now, as that has opened the B button trace, so soldering the new Tact to the B button contact would do nothing.

You need to solder a jumper wire form the left side of the B button contact, provided that it's not already ruined, to the first B button via now. If you ruin the Via on the top then you have 2 more on the top to attempt to get that right, if you ruin all of those then you'll have to connect it to the one on the bottom, if you ruin that you'll have to connect it to the lead on the MCU, if you ruin that then you're done. The entire B button line is traced out in the pics on the first page.

Okay so the via next to the top of d14?

RDC · « **Reply #52 on:** February 02, 2015, 07:44:59 AM »

Top/right, but yes, closest one above it.

Psychnah · « **Reply #53 on:** February 02, 2015, 08:51:14 AM »

Okay thank you!! Will try it later on today and report back !

Psychnah · « **Reply #54 on:** February 02, 2015, 02:50:52 PM »

My B button is back to being always pressed. Including pictures

WHITE 4ND N3RDY · « **Reply #55 on:** February 02, 2015, 03:16:53 PM »

Invest in flux! Use rubbing alcohol and clean your area u want to solder to, make sure that u scrapped the via where u can see the copper then apply a little flux to the via. If u Dont have flux a little spit does the trick lol.

RDC · « **Reply #56 on:** February 02, 2015, 03:42:45 PM »

I can't see it. You either haven't scrapped enough masking off, or have scrapped too much and ruined it.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?/topic/512248-broken-trace/#entry3406983

Spit is a good way to catch some solder splash in your eye when that heats up and the expanding gas has nowhere to go because the solder is covering it up, aka a solder balloon that can pop, so do yourself a favor and stop doing that. Regardless of how 'well' it's been working for you, it only takes 1 fail there and you can kiss depth perception goodbye. Good solder already has a rosin core, that is the flux is inside it, and it's not always necessary to go adding more.

Psychnah · « **Reply #57 on:** February 02, 2015, 03:52:46 PM »

Thanks for all the help guys, but at this point I think my controller is done for lol. The left hand side pad on the B button has lifted up, and I'm not sure if that's repairible but if it is let me know.

[mod]Just use the modify tab to add to your post. This way u Dont double post. No biggy just a future F.Y.I thanks. [/mod]

RDC · « **Reply #58 on:** February 02, 2015, 04:30:53 PM »

Back up 1/4" and take the pic again, the part that really needs to be seen is blurry, either way it's not ruined, I could fix it.

Psychnah · « **Reply #59 on:** February 02, 2015, 05:04:09 PM »

Is this one better?

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537 (Read 322227 times)

WHITE 4ND N3RDY