Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537 (Read 322226 times)

RDC · « **Reply #60 on:** February 02, 2015, 05:53:45 PM »

A bit. You've pulled the trace at SW3 for sure, and it looks like the Via wasn't scrapped enough in that pic. Get someone else to take a crack at it for you, or get yourself another controller and keep that one and practice, practice, practice on it before laying the iron on your new one.

Psychnah · « **Reply #61 on:** February 02, 2015, 06:12:25 PM »

Would there be a way for me to fix SW3? If I scrape down where the trace was and retry? I appreciate all your help so far you really know what you are talking about and are very encouraging!

RDC · « **Reply #62 on:** February 02, 2015, 07:39:32 PM »

From what I've seen so far, and no offense intended, you're probably just going to dig yourself in deeper until someone like me can't really repair it. Either write it off and get a new one, then use that one for practice and try things out, or if you're wanting to salvage it, then let someone that works on that kind of thing look at it.

Psychnah · « **Reply #63 on:** February 02, 2015, 07:44:59 PM »

Haha no offence taken, I private messaged you.

fevera1985 · « **Reply #64 on:** April 22, 2015, 08:15:19 PM »

Anyone here is familiar with electronic sketching ? Im wanting to get a small project done and upload to a printing site to get the small boards, i had a few convos with someone here last year but never wrote me.back, i will pay for the work, thanks.

RDC · « **Reply #65 on:** April 22, 2015, 10:37:21 PM »

Electronic 'sketching' is far from PCB designing, that's just drawing wires on paper. PM me if you're after needing an actual PCB designed, but if you're wanting some conductive pen on paper stuff done, then please start another thread as that's even farther from what this topic is about than what the PCB designing is.

CPSM95 · « **Reply #66 on:** June 03, 2015, 08:06:32 AM »

So I ran into a similar problem as a previous person. I was attempting to replace the guide button LED and I accidentally ripped off the contact pad on the left side (positive side). I want to know how to fix it or the best place to hard wire that side of the LED to and what wire I should use for something that small.

Thank you

RDC · « **Reply #67 on:** June 03, 2015, 09:13:00 AM »

The first place to solder to is the Via that's right there at the pad. After that on the bottom of the board, the top of R5 is the next spot you can attach a wire to and run it to the LED. If you ruin both of those spots then you'll also be needing to install a Resistor in the repair at other locations to get everything going again properly.

I'd use 30awg wire or smaller.

CPSM95 · « **Reply #68 on:** June 03, 2015, 12:43:49 PM »

Last night I tried scraping of the coating of the track line going to R5 and attaching it right to the copper track but that didn't work because the solder would not sick to the PCB at all. I also don't think I was using the right wire either, it was stranded copper. I didn't even think of connecting it straight to R5. Then today I went out and bought some 24 AWG solid wire (they didn't have 30) and a new soldering iron because the one I was using was like 100 years old and the solder wasn't even sticking to the iron. I then attached an LED I took off an old xbox 360 that got the red rings to one end of the wire and the other end I attached right to R5 and it's working....finally!

Thank you!

Also the light is red not green. I'm okay with it being red...I'm just curious why it wouldn't be green unless that has something to do with the way I soldered it on there or the fact that the xbox I took it of off had gotten the red rings before.

Update:

Okay so it was working and then it stopped to i opened my controller back up to try to secure the connections and I made it worse. Can you look at these pictures and tell me what I should do to get an LED to work.

[mod]dont double post, please use the edit tab [/mod]

RDC · « **Reply #69 on:** June 03, 2015, 05:49:54 PM »

The LEDs in the 360 RoL are Bi-Color, all you've done there is connect up the Red instead of Green.

To be honest, I think the best thing you can do is let someone else work on that PCB before it's completely ruined and chalk that one up as a learning experience and practice on other things with much larger Thru Hole components before going to the Surface Mount rework. Both LED pads are gone now and the PCB is starting to get burned. You're using far, far too much heat and scraping on the PCB way too much in some places and not enough in others.

Take a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol to it for now and clean that all up so you can see what is still what under all of that nuked flux. Also, make sure you're not using any kind of acid core or really old solder that you have no idea what it is. You need to be using Rosin core 60/40 or similar (63/37, etc) for doing that type of thing.

CPSM95 · « **Reply #70 on:** June 04, 2015, 08:13:19 PM »

Is there anywhere else on the controller where I can attach an LED to through a wire and still have it shine through the guide button such as one of those locations on the side of the PCB? I was thinking I would just glue the LED under the guide button and then run wires to where ever would make it light up. I successfully swapped LEDs on two other controllers and the console itself. I really want this other controller to light up though.

Thank you

RDC · « **Reply #71 on:** June 04, 2015, 10:27:46 PM »

Any other spot you're going to need to install a Resistor as well to keep the LED from being damaged.

TP9 is 3.3v and then use any ground. It will not work like it is supposed to then, and it will only be on when the controller is on, and off when it's off.

Immortal · « **Reply #72 on:** June 15, 2015, 05:50:22 AM »

I've managed to melt off the contacts where you bridge the 2 for the triggers, if I hold the wire in a via or the mfu the trigger acts as if the button is held down is that normal? E.g if I hold the button down and out the wire in the via its fine, however soon as I let up the button it's "pressed" on the PCb?

I posted a thread with other pics but could use some help

RDC · « **Reply #73 on:** June 15, 2015, 07:43:10 AM »

I've replied in your thread, as the info you've given here is not on topic and lacking to proceed any further with.

jortizval · « **Reply #74 on:** July 28, 2015, 08:12:07 AM »

I need some help here. Im pad hacking a xb1 controller i got from ebay, i dismantled the controller and wired all the points needed to put it on a fightstick. I ripped off the point on B so i solder the wire to d14 (its that ok?) Now my problem is when i plug in the usb cable from the controller to the xbox the controller dont turn on. Also i had to "fix" the headset usb connector because it came loose and broke the pins that connect to the pcb. I only wire all bottons (xyab,dd,dr,du,dd,dl,lb,rb,rt and lt with a 100ohm resistor each, guide, start and option buttons) and wired one of the ground points for all ground. What ive done wrong so my controller dont turn on? Do i need to wire anything else to get power on the controller? And where should be?

RDC · « **Reply #75 on:** July 28, 2015, 09:42:08 AM »

Only the top point of D14 can be used for B.

If you didn't test the controller before hand then it may never have worked, and if it did, then something you have done to it is what killed it. I can't see, and no idea what kind of soldering job you did on it.

There is no headset USB connector, those are 2 completely different connectors, but that's where I'd start on it as you both broke and 'fixed' it.

jortizval · « **Reply #76 on:** July 28, 2015, 04:04:13 PM »

Ok i will post pics of soldering job ive done, also will need some advice if hot glue was well applied. Ive used the top point of B on d14

jortizval · « **Reply #77 on:** July 28, 2015, 04:49:14 PM »

Ok here are the pics of the soldering job. I dont know if you can appreciate the soldering because of the glue. Let me know what to do so i can get some help from you. Also, yes i didnt test the controller bafore hand i forgot so idk if it was working before dismantled. My bad there.

RDC · « **Reply #78 on:** July 28, 2015, 05:15:47 PM »

You never want to put hot glue on top of the solder joints. If you need to get back to the joints, that can cause damage to the pads/traces when removing the glue and makes it more difficult to test things.

I can't see the 12 SMT solder joints of the Headset connector J8, but if that thing was pulled even half off the board then there is damage there for sure and I doubt that it will work.

Can't tell if that's a solder flake or damage at C9 also, main board top side.

You have the RT spot wired to pin 1 instead of pin 2 where it should be.

Now for the biggie, you've ripped L2 almost completely off the board, power board bottom side, which has killed the step down voltage from the USB 5v, so the controller is getting no power at all when using the USB cable. That can not be repaired as it's damaged too much, and it needs to be replaced with the correct value component for it to work properly.

jortizval · « **Reply #79 on:** July 28, 2015, 08:41:50 PM »

Ok so RT and LT need to be solder to R39/C36, R42/C38 respectively instead of ut10, ut11 as i solder them?. Also i solder an 100ohm resistor to each wire of this triggers is that ok? And since my usb source is killed because of that ripped L2 can i power the board with jump wiring the batteries to their respective voltage connectors and make the connection wireless? And for the headset connector it wasnt pulled off the board the 4 pins that connect to the board from the connector broke from the main base headset connector and where still soldered on the board, didnt see any damage i just desoldered the remaining pins left in the board and soldered 4 tiny wires in their respectively spot to make the connection but as the board dont have power i dont know if that really work, but its ok this way? Its kinda jump wiring headset connector itself to connect to the board but idk if that work this way since i tried to find that headset connector on ebay with no luck. It would be easier than what i did, just clean board solder and replace with new connector. Please let me know if all this is correct.

RDC · « **Reply #80 on:** July 29, 2015, 12:22:50 AM »

Just move the RT wire over to pin 2.

It should still work powered from a battery pack, provided that it worked to start with and nothing else is damaged, but I've never broken one that way on purpose and tried.

The 4 tabs of the Headset connector are just for mechanical stress, keeping it off the 12 SMT solder joints of it that are the necessary ones. If the 4 tabs for the Headset connector were broken, then the 12 SMT solder joints and/or pads/traces of it have been stressed or damaged.

kriscash2007 · « **Reply #81 on:** July 29, 2015, 12:00:57 PM »

I've put my controller back together and thought the the d-d - pad would work with a new piece. Come to find out it does the same thing as it did before I started. It requires a very push for it to respond. Is there anything I can do about that. Everything else works just fine. I think I messed it up when I raged one time.

RDC · « **Reply #82 on:** July 29, 2015, 04:03:04 PM »

You've taken the D-pad apart, peeling the top off and soldered on the PCB, so I wouldn't expect it to work correctly being put back together as it's nowhere near as flat, clean or conductive as it was before all of that. You also said the controller wasn't tested before, now you are, so I couldn't tell you what the problem was before hand. If it's not clicking like the other 3, then it's the domed piece of metal in the plastic that's worn out or not centered properly.

jortizval · « **Reply #83 on:** July 29, 2015, 07:18:37 PM »

Ok can you show me where is pin 2 with pics? I dont want to make mistakes

Edit: i think is the one below it, am I right?

RDC · « **Reply #84 on:** July 29, 2015, 09:10:47 PM »

Pin 2 of what?

jortizval · « **Reply #85 on:** July 29, 2015, 11:20:28 PM »

Nvm ty for your help if i got any other issues ill come to ask you. You know your business

jortizval · « **Reply #86 on:** August 01, 2015, 08:06:54 PM »

Ok how do i fix Y button not responding on another pcb, i switched working top board between 2 of them but Y button not working on both top board connecting to same bottom board. How do i fix it?

RDC · « **Reply #87 on:** August 02, 2015, 03:57:46 AM »

The Y button, along with every other button, is traced out in the pics of the very first post of this thread. Get out the DMM and start checking the continuity of the Y trace on the bottom board until you find the break in the trace, or a bad solder joint on the connector or the MCU. If all of that is good, then the MCU is the problem and you're not going to fix it.

jortizval · « **Reply #88 on:** August 06, 2015, 03:20:25 PM »

Ok if there is no continuity on the long B trace bottom board, B button still work? Also there have to be continuity on Y trace from the left side to the right side between both connectors or just left connector and left side Y trace are connected and right side Y trace with right side connector are connected? I mean left conector and right connector Y pins dont have continuity between them? They are independant? Just left side Y trace need to have continuity with left side connector and right side Y trace need to have continuity with right side connector?

Sorry if you dont understand my question, let me know please

RDC · « **Reply #89 on:** August 07, 2015, 05:03:17 AM »

You're not using the meter correctly or checking the correct spots if you have no continuity on the B trace and B still works. There is only 1 Y trace on the bottom board, it goes from pin 10 of J6 to pin 58 of the MCU and thru 5 Vias. It's the Yellow trace, the Yellow with Black dot trace is for D-pad Up.

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537 (Read 322226 times)