Author Topic: DualShock 4 Controller PCB scans (Read 375923 times)

RDC · « **Reply #150 on:** December 14, 2018, 05:01:56 AM »

Most likely causes are the plating was pulled out of the holes for the L3 button, or that tiny L3 trace was damaged when removing the stick. The Pull Down Resistor on the L3 line could have been knocked off the board also.

Frs_william · « **Reply #151 on:** December 20, 2018, 07:10:47 PM »

hello, does anyone know how to fix pcb boards? I have a jdm-055 and it has this little rectangle thing missing that I have no idea what it's called or what it does.

This image is from this site and where it shows the solder point of (X) the little rectangular thing above it, is missing on mine. That's the only thing I found missing could that cause it to not work anymore? I don't really know anything about this. I've done a few controllers already where I added extra buttons based on the solder points from the site but this is a first where it just messes up completely so I'm lost. Thank you.

RDC · « **Reply #152 on:** December 21, 2018, 01:52:04 AM »

The part is a Capacitor, and it's still on the board there, it's just moved off to the right, directly above the Via for the Triangle button.

Looks to me like there is possibly a short or two on there from the soldering attempts.

What I would do is remove the 'missing' Cap, it's just for decoupling and not really necessary for it to function. The only thing holding it on there should be the solder flux. Then I would clean up both circled spots with the soldering iron and make sure you can see both pads for each of the Caps so there is no more possible way they could be shorted. This will remove the Cap in the bottom right circled spot as well, and it again is just for decoupling and will be fine with it also removed.

If you're not wanting to solder on the boards anymore, look into the SFX I made for those things. https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,44001.0.html

Frs_william · « **Reply #153 on:** December 21, 2018, 12:33:19 PM »

I appreciate the reply, I will try that and see if it works. And Is it okay to message you about those sfx things you make for pricing and whatnot? I've used a few of those I got on Amazon and just make life easier. Ever since the jdm-055 it's hard for me to solder on the front side of the board.

vahrumka · « **Reply #154 on:** April 29, 2019, 12:29:57 AM »

Hello friends! Tell me what is this chip m324s? This dualshock ps4 motherboard 1-893-557-21

RDC · « **Reply #155 on:** April 29, 2019, 01:04:15 AM »

It's a 3.2v Linear Regulator. The LDK130M32R or anything that crosses close to it should work as a replacement. Looks like the Vin pin trace has a lot of corrosion damage at the group of 4 vias, but hard to tell until it gets scraped down a bit to see better.

vahrumka · « **Reply #156 on:** May 04, 2019, 02:25:38 AM »

Thank you very much!

dan_paul · « **Reply #157 on:** May 07, 2019, 03:18:18 AM »

Hello guys,
I am new here, this is my first post.
I have a question, if you could enlighten me I would be thankful.
I bought a ps4 dualshock 4 controller with a JDM-055 board and it is missing (completly)the socket in wich you insert the 12 pin charging ribbon. Can you help me naming the socket and is there a way to buy one? Or is there a way to go around that socket?I don't care if the led wont work … I am hopping that I can use the controller.
Thank you very much.
Sorry for my bad english.

RDC · « **Reply #158 on:** May 07, 2019, 06:39:16 AM »

That is an FFC connector, Flat Flex Cable connector. 12 pin, SMT. 0.5mm pitch. Something like the Molex 0781191128 should work if you can find it. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0781191128/WM20468CT-ND/8638615

Also the Kyocera 046244412010846+ should work. - https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/kyocera-international-inc-electronic-components/046244412010846/1253-046244412010846-CT-ND/10313426

You can skip installing the connector and just wire up the USB lines to make sure it charges and works, just be careful as it is easy to damage those pads. It's kind of rare for a connector to break off like that 'clean' and not tear up at least 1 trace in the process. All you really need to make it work/charge are 5v, D-, D+ and Ground.

1 - 5v
2 - 5v
3 - LED+
4 - BLUE-
5 - RED-
6 - GREEN-
7 - GND
8 - GND
9 - D-
10 - D+
11 - GND
12 - GND

Left side are even numbers, right side are odd.

dan_paul · « **Reply #159 on:** May 07, 2019, 10:05:12 PM »

@RDC

Thank you very very very much. Tonight, after work I will test it. Maybe I will find on the way home a FFC connector.
Ps: I think that the previous owner unsoldered the FFC connector, because the board looks so...clean.

RDC · « **Reply #160 on:** May 08, 2019, 04:19:14 AM »

Welcome. Desoldering would have meant the solder was molten and you wouldn't be able to see all 12 of the spots where the leads of the connector were. That connector was mechanically removed, which also would not touch any other part of the board.

armata007 · « **Reply #161 on:** May 10, 2019, 02:41:09 PM »

Hi,
Does anyone happens to know if there are any spots where I can connect to dpad buttons on 011? I can't see it on the original schematics. Great job BTW on figuring that out

RDC · « **Reply #162 on:** May 10, 2019, 06:30:33 PM »

The connector pads on top of the board 5, 6, 7 and 8 are for the D-pad.

5 - DR
6 - DU
7 - DL
8 - DD

6, 7 and 8 all drop thru a via to the back side of the board, so they are back there. The PITA one is DR as it makes a straight run from the connector to the MCU on the top side, so it can only be tapped onto from that trace by soldering to it.

In the JDM-011 image on page 1 for the button vias, directly under where it says JDM there are 5 vias pretty much in a row, going left to right the first 2 (under J) are already marked Pink and Orange, the next 3 (under DM) are DD, DL, DU.

arashkazemi1371 · « **Reply #163 on:** May 21, 2019, 09:53:29 AM »

This piece is missing on my JDM-030 board
Can anyone tell me what is this exatclly ?

When i press L3, the following buttons get pressed automatically:
Square - Share - Options - Right and Down on both analogs - Left and Down on D-Pad

I think this has something to do with this piece. Everything else seems right to me.

Can anyone help, Please?

RDC · « **Reply #164 on:** May 21, 2019, 11:16:21 AM »

That is a 100k, 0402 sized SMT Resistor. It's used as a Pull Down to keep the L3 button line from floating. Floating button lines can do all kinds of weirdo things, so install a new Resistor and then see how the controller acts.

arashkazemi1371 · « **Reply #165 on:** May 26, 2019, 09:27:17 AM »

Quote from: RDC on May 21, 2019, 11:16:21 AM

That is a 100k, 0402 sized SMT Resistor. It's used as a Pull Down to keep the L3 button line from floating. Floating button lines can do all kinds of weirdo things, so install a new Resistor and then see how the controller acts.

The 100K resistor did the magic
The controller works just fine, like a new one
Thank You so Much.

RDC · « **Reply #166 on:** May 26, 2019, 12:23:04 PM »

Welcome.

Gusnnar · « **Reply #167 on:** June 17, 2019, 01:31:06 AM »

Quote from: RDC on May 07, 2019, 06:39:16 AM

That is an FFC connector, Flat Flex Cable connector. 12 pin, SMT. 0.5mm pitch. Something like the Molex 0781191128 should work if you can find it. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0781191128/WM20468CT-ND/8638615

Also the Kyocera 046244412010846+ should work. - https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/kyocera-international-inc-electronic-components/046244412010846/1253-046244412010846-CT-ND/10313426

You can skip installing the connector and just wire up the USB lines to make sure it charges and works, just be careful as it is easy to damage those pads. It's kind of rare for a connector to break off like that 'clean' and not tear up at least 1 trace in the process. All you really need to make it work/charge are 5v, D-, D+ and Ground.

1 - 5v
2 - 5v
3 - LED+
4 - BLUE-
5 - RED-
6 - GREEN-
7 - GND
8 - GND
9 - D-
10 - D+
11 - GND
12 - GND

Left side are even numbers, right side are odd.

Hi, I'm new, my English is bad. I had the same problem but mine is the jdm-040 I would like to know which are the connectors that I have to solder in order to load it. Can someone help me?

https://imgur.com/a/KR5kaXj

RDC · « **Reply #168 on:** June 17, 2019, 03:36:10 PM »

The JDM-040 connector is the same, it's just turned around.

1 - 5v
2 - 5v
3 - LED+
4 - BLUE-
5 - RED-
6 - GREEN-
7 - GND
8 - GND
9 - D-
10 - D+
11 - GND
12 - GND

Mizuho · « **Reply #169 on:** June 29, 2019, 01:30:59 PM »

Hi guys, I bought a PS4 controller that looks like it's had the pcb sanded or something at the controller connector.

I bought a replacement ribbon flex pcb, since both sides had been done and it seems to have worked, but the L2 still isn't working, it's firing on and off continuously.

I've had a look at can't really see anything wrong, but does anyone know where the pad goes on the pcb? From what I can tell on the scans, I can't really see.

I tried cleaning it up, but it still doesn't look great. But what confuses me is that tracing the pcb flex ribbon to the pcb itself all looks ok and the pads themselves look identical to the other pads and every other button works fine.

Can't figure out how to upload images either lol.

https://imgur.com/a/LuUdK6v

Edit: I should mention, it's a JDM-040

RDC · « **Reply #170 on:** June 29, 2019, 01:54:38 PM »

Take a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol to those contacts and that whole area first.

The carbon coating (black stuff) has been removed from that last contact there, which is the one for R2, so it may be causing an intermittent connection there making it act up. You can try cutting a small rectangle piece of paper the same size as the foam piece that sits in the plastic piece that holds the button flex board, then install it under the foam piece, so it puts a tad more pressure on the contacts when the controller is together.

That exposed copper contact will eventually corrode, so even if cleaning it up and putting a little more pressure on it gets it going again, it's working days are numbered. The best thing to do would be to recoat it, and about your only option there is to use a rear window defogger repair kit. Clean (barely scrape) the copper so it's shiny again, then mask it off and try to paint it the same size and thickness as the other ones. Don't just dump some solder on it, it will just tarnish as well and eventually fail since there is nothing to 'dig' into it when it makes contact with the flex board.

Mizuho · « **Reply #171 on:** June 29, 2019, 05:11:38 PM »

Quote from: RDC on June 29, 2019, 01:54:38 PM

Take a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol to those contacts and that whole area first.

The carbon coating (black stuff) has been removed from that last contact there, which is the one for R2, so it may be causing an intermittent connection there making it act up. You can try cutting a small rectangle piece of paper the same size as the foam piece that sits in the plastic piece that holds the button flex board, then install it under the foam piece, so it puts a tad more pressure on the contacts when the controller is together.

That exposed copper contact will eventually corrode, so even if cleaning it up and putting a little more pressure on it gets it going again, it's working days are numbered. The best thing to do would be to recoat it, and about your only option there is to use a rear window defogger repair kit. Clean (barely scrape) the copper so it's shiny again, then mask it off and try to paint it the same size and thickness as the other ones. Don't just dump some solder on it, it will just tarnish as well and eventually fail since there is nothing to 'dig' into it when it makes contact with the flex board.

I did already try cleaning the area with some IPA and it was pretty dirty, so this is the clean version lol. I should point out that the R2 is working well and the L2 is the one that is triggering by itself. Can't really see any reason for it though, as you say, the R2 is missing the carbon coating, but from what I can see, the L2 is fine. So I'm guessing it's more a problem of where the traces end up, but I can't really figure that out.

Also, there's a foam piece? There wasn't anything like that in it and this is the first JDM-040 I've opened, so I'm not familiar with it. I've only opened two PS4 controllers before to replace R2 parts. I guess I'll go look into that now.

I'll check into the defogger repair kit if I can get it working, but if I can't, it seems like a bit of a waste.

Thanks for the advice though

RDC · « **Reply #172 on:** June 29, 2019, 07:09:30 PM »

My bad, read L2 then looked at the pic and had R2 on the brain from how the older version controllers are laid out. I had to go back a few pages (page 4) and check. That exposed pad is actually a ground connection for the Square button. It wouldn't be messing with the L2 at all.

The Triggers are pretty much just voltage dividers, so either the L2 Resistor (the one right under the L2 button) or the Pull-Up for it (which is built into the flex board close to it) being out of spec or having any crud on them might make it act funky. Same goes for any mess on the board.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #173 on:** July 02, 2019, 02:16:33 PM »

Hi again dear pcb geeks

Can you help me identify 5 legs chip on JDM-001?

I have dead JDM-002 with similar chip but other letters on it. Maybe them the same?

Here heating up chip when usb connected. It is near Li-Ion socket:

Win7 not recognize usb device (JDM-001)

Can I replace R32CC with M32D5 from JDM-020?

Or please help me identify it to order at Aliexpress

Stupid ex-repairer insert narrow tape in wide socket from usb plate!!!
Maybe gamepad go to heaven.

RDC · « **Reply #174 on:** July 02, 2019, 02:24:13 PM »

They are the same 3.2v Regulator.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #175 on:** July 02, 2019, 02:45:53 PM »

Quote from: RDC on July 02, 2019, 02:24:13 PM

They are the same 3.2v Regulator.

Thank you a lot for fast answer

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #176 on:** July 02, 2019, 03:03:57 PM »

Quote from: RDC on July 02, 2019, 02:24:13 PM

They are the same 3.2v Regulator.

GROOOVY!!!

It works after replace!!!
Thanks again

RDC · « **Reply #177 on:** July 02, 2019, 04:00:27 PM »

Welcome.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #178 on:** July 02, 2019, 05:30:53 PM »

Quote from: RDC on July 02, 2019, 04:00:27 PM

Welcome.

I find the problem

Regulator was ok.

Touchpad was dead and heat up that regulator.

ZhenyaKa · « **Reply #179 on:** July 02, 2019, 06:02:21 PM »

And cherry on a cake - ribbon from touchpad was inserted bad and that why regulator heating up!

That a f**ck!!!!

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Author Topic: DualShock 4 Controller PCB scans (Read 375923 times)