Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 425468 times)

saulveloz · « **Reply #90 on:** September 04, 2018, 03:39:44 AM »

Quote from: RDC on August 18, 2018, 02:18:27 AM

Follow the trace just to the right of the lead, it goes to TP65, kind of right under the antenna.

Thank you so much, i didn't saw the trace because of the dam antena, but now i bought a multimeter, thanks again!

SharkyJC · « **Reply #91 on:** October 10, 2018, 12:43:11 PM »

Great work RDC - I'm working on a repair of sorts and wondered if anyone had the points for the X,Y axis for both analog sticks?

The left stick X axis, which is close the edge of the PCB it's unclear to me where the trace goes.

Any clarification would be great!

Thanks,

SharkyJC

RDC · « **Reply #92 on:** October 10, 2018, 01:54:26 PM »

Thanks, but the Y-axis is Up/Down, X-axis is Left/Right, so the Y is the one closest to the PCB edge.

TP63 - LSY
TP64 - LSX
TP65 - RSY
TP66 - RSX

SharkyJC · « **Reply #93 on:** October 15, 2018, 06:56:00 AM »

If I wanted to isolate LSY, LSX, RSY and RSX from the pcb so they are essentially not connected, which traces would I need to cut?

I am trying to do a southpaw hardware modification instead of using the accessories app.

Thanks,

SharkyJC

RDC · « **Reply #94 on:** October 15, 2018, 10:27:14 AM »

All of them have the traces right on the bottom of the board at the POTs. Cut them there, then just rewire solder joint to TP spot. Have fun with that though, as you'll end up with every axis off from where it used to be and worst case some that will be drifting and then need tweaked.

SharkyJC · « **Reply #95 on:** October 15, 2018, 10:38:02 AM »

I thought about the drifting issue. I am planning on removing the pots and physically swapping them, then do the southpaw mod.

EDIT: Physically swapping the POT's should work, unless the heat from the soldering iron changes the characteristics of the POT..

Thanks for the information.

RDC · « **Reply #96 on:** October 15, 2018, 05:29:40 PM »

That's not going to keep it from having an issue. That's like saying you're going to put your drag cars big fat rear wheels on the front and the skinny ones on the back and it'll be fine because you're only going to drive in reverse.

The controller is calibrated with the Sticks in it how they are now, just swapping the POTs will still throw it off because they have a tolerance of their own, just as the mechanical parts of the Stick housing have tolerances, and they are not all 100% the same. Moving anything related to the Sticks around anywhere will toss it off a little bit, how much depends on how far off they are from each other, but again, swapping the POTs will not get you 'out of jail' there and in fact, it could make it worse.

SharkyJC · « **Reply #97 on:** October 16, 2018, 09:55:33 AM »

I am going to desolder the entire assembly, and move both sticks, then cut traces, and solder from x,y to TP's on the PCB.. Electrically, the pots will be attached to the same inputs but wired in southpaw configuration. If I cut the traces and wired up for southpaw without moving the pots, I can understand that would introduce drift.

I'll perform the mod and let you know how it turns out.

RDC · « **Reply #98 on:** October 16, 2018, 05:14:45 PM »

Simply removing the entire stick assembly, and then reinstalling it right back where you just removed it from, will still throw it off a bit. You're not going to get around the fact that messing with it in any way, shape or form will toss it at least a little out of wack from where it was originally calibrated at. How far off it'll get depends, and you may not notice it in most games, but put an app on there that shows where it knows dead center is supped to be, a Cronus or the like, and you'll see it's off after moving any of that stuff around in there. This isn't RDC's first rodeo.

porroman · « **Reply #99 on:** October 23, 2018, 10:31:33 PM »

hello i wanna know if i can solder the trigger output from the halt sensor as older models, and if i need an 100 ohm resistor 1/4 watt for grounding the triggers too in both cases with the halt sensor and the TP

RDC · « **Reply #100 on:** October 24, 2018, 04:41:44 AM »

It is better to use a Resistor, but not required, and even if you blow the Hall sensor up it can be replaced. They are the A1304ELHLK-T, with a sensitivity of 4 mV/Gs.
(NOTE: If you want a bit more sensitive Trigger, but not a hair Trigger like a Tact switch would provide, then the A1319LLHLT-5-T can be used, as it’s sensitivity is 5 mV/Gs)

saulveloz · « **Reply #101 on:** November 29, 2018, 01:54:48 AM »

A client brought me 2 bad repaired controller, do you guys think this is possible to fix, or i'm just wasting my time
Thanks

RDC · « **Reply #102 on:** November 29, 2018, 07:29:09 AM »

The are repairable, though the amount of time you will spend on them and how useful they will be afterward will not be worth it compared to just finding a couple of replacement boards and having a fully functional controller again that you can still take apart without being afraid all of that tedious work you did will come with it.

You can find those boards for less than $20 each, and then keep the old ones for parts. That's how I'd go about 'repairing' those controllers, unless I had nothing better to do and felt like just seeing if I could repair them, but I've already been there and done that on enough PCBs to know that I'd just replace those things and then use those for parts.

Boondocksaintfl · « **Reply #103 on:** December 01, 2018, 06:08:31 PM »

I have no solder on my tp21, and when I try to attach the power wire from my 30 mod chip it won't make a connection. Is there any way to correct this? Or can I just use a other tp location for power.

RDC · « **Reply #104 on:** December 01, 2018, 11:09:00 PM »

TP21 on the top board is the A button, if that's torn up you have a problem.

TP21 on the bottom board is just Ground, any ground spot can be used for that.

Post a good pic of the spot you are having an issue with.

Boondocksaintfl · « **Reply #105 on:** December 03, 2018, 02:55:44 PM »

Boondocksaintfl · « **Reply #106 on:** December 03, 2018, 02:56:56 PM »

Everything works on it fine I have no problems. I just can't attach my power wire for my mod chip

RDC · « **Reply #107 on:** December 03, 2018, 03:07:56 PM »

That's TP9, TP21 is the one there just to the left.

Boondocksaintfl · « **Reply #108 on:** December 03, 2018, 03:45:45 PM »

Okay so if the bottom two the one to the left is tp21? Awesome thanks brother the instructions the have say it's the one on the right.

RDC · « **Reply #109 on:** December 03, 2018, 03:49:34 PM »

No idea what instructions you're looking at, or how they looked at it, but there are only 3 TP spots there, TP54, TP21 and TP9, and TP21 is right there in the middle and it's just ground.

Boondocksaintfl · « **Reply #110 on:** December 03, 2018, 04:19:48 PM »

Boondocksaintfl · « **Reply #111 on:** December 03, 2018, 05:21:08 PM »

Okay my mistake I guess that's tp9. By looking at the picture of the board I posted do you think that I can still solder a wire there? I tried but can't get it to attach I'm also putting flux down as well

RDC · « **Reply #112 on:** December 03, 2018, 06:04:04 PM »

The copper pad is gone, you'd never get a wire to solder there. You're just soldering right onto the bare fiberglass of the PCB there.

Move up to the spot just above TP9 there on the SOIC board (the little board that's soldered to the main board) and where it's marked *31 on there, the bottom right solder joint (can see it in your pic) and solder your power wire there. It's the same as TP9, just be careful and do not bridge that spot to the one just to the left of it, as that one is ground and you'd short the 3.3v rail of the controller if that happened.

owne3d · « **Reply #113 on:** December 24, 2018, 01:04:46 PM »

Hey,

Amazing job with the PCB schematics.

I have a controller to repair, Basically the controller stays on as long as you hold the Xbox button, but as soon as you let go of it, it looses power.

Same story the issue happens on batteries only once you use external power to USB it works fine, I tried to see if any cap is broken however I was unable to find anything.

Any idea?

RDC · « **Reply #114 on:** December 24, 2018, 04:13:04 PM »

Unplug the Button/Power board and do some Resistance measurements.

Check R4 and R7, both should measure 0ohms.

Measure pin 9 of J1 to Ground, should be around 2M (1.5M to 3M is fine).

Make sure D26 is on the board.

Check R25, it's 25.5k and R26, it's 0ohms.

owne3d · « **Reply #115 on:** December 31, 2018, 11:00:43 AM »

You sir are legend.

I have checked R7 and its acting funny.
everything else is checking out pretty much.

I will try to replace it at some point and see how it goes

RDC · « **Reply #116 on:** December 31, 2018, 07:07:45 PM »

You can just toss a small wire in there, or even solder bridge it to jumper R7, that's all it's doing anyway.

Ramon2221 · « **Reply #117 on:** January 28, 2019, 11:55:49 AM »

Hello everyone.

Recently a friend brougth me a controller with a problem similar to the one @lukasz and @FlexBitt described. All the buttons from the button/power board appeared as pressed all the time.

The voltage on those buttons was low and flickery, but the outputs of the buck-down regulators were OK and stable.

With the help of the diagrams provided by @RDC and the datasheet of U4 (which I was able to found via this thread), I isolated the problem to be that the (negated) reset pin of U4 was floating due to a deterioration of the PCB in that area. R4 was disconnected from C37 and the reset pin of U4.

A simple mini-blob of solder did the trick, and the controller functions normally now.

Big thanks to @RDC, and please correct me if I did something wrong.

RDC · « **Reply #118 on:** January 28, 2019, 02:25:08 PM »

Nothing done wrong there at all from start to finish far as I'm concerned, good work.

adamp2006 · « **Reply #119 on:** February 04, 2019, 11:07:23 AM »

Where would be the best place to get 3.3v on the button board that is only active when the controller is on , tried points like tp35 on the button boardbut that seems to be active when the usb is connected not only when the controller is on

Thanks in advance

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 425468 times)