Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 427041 times)

RDC · « **Reply #270 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:11:15 PM »

Well for a functional stick that's impossible as there was 0.9v on the X-axis POT, so it was getting voltage. That jumper wire should have put the voltage to the Y-axis POT. Has that stick been replaced? It looks like very single solder joint on the thing has been had at.

aydinrad · « **Reply #271 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:19:15 PM »

It has been replaced, but it worked after the repair. It stopped working when I tried to install that button remap kit and tore out the solder joint for TP11, TP67, TP41 on the MCU board and TP20 on the button board (yeah I really goofed). I was able to restore functionality to all of the buttons affected by my mistakes.

RDC · « **Reply #272 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:25:56 PM »

The only way for there to still be 0v on the center Y-axis POT lead now is if the POT has an issue. Unless the jumper wire you put on has a break in the middle of it, which I'd doubt. Measure voltage on both ends of it though, with respect to ground, they should both measure 1.8v. If the center lead of Y still measures 0v and you do have the 1.8v on the bottom lead, then that POT is the problem.

aydinrad · « **Reply #273 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:29:36 PM »

I get 0V DC when measuring both sides of the wire.

RDC · « **Reply #274 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:32:36 PM »

With respect to ground? Black lead on ground, red on wire.

aydinrad · « **Reply #275 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:34:18 PM »

Whoops, my bad, -1.8 V DC. So my POT is bad then?

RDC · « **Reply #276 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:37:56 PM »

Only thing that makes sense so far. You can try resoldering the middle lead and remeasure it, see if anything happens. Kind of odd for one to jut up and die that was working, but I've seen weirder things.

aydinrad · « **Reply #277 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:39:48 PM »

Do you think it could be the little sensor inside the POT that isn't working? I've had success fixing stick drift by replacing those.

RDC · « **Reply #278 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:43:07 PM »

The only thing in there is the Wiper. It's either that, the resistor trace inside the POT or the lead is broken.

aydinrad · « **Reply #279 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:47:19 PM »

By wiper, do you mean this thing? https://xqgaming.com/7631-thickbox_default/xb1-analog-stick-sensor-wheel.jpg

RDC · « **Reply #280 on:** May 23, 2020, 09:56:07 PM »

Yep. It doesn't sense anything, it's just metal, and it doesn't rotate all the way around. It 'wipes' over the resistive trace inside the POT to change the value you get on the middle lead.

The Sticks are just voltage dividers. One side is connected to ground, other side is connected to 1.8v and the middle is connected to the Wiper and is what the controller measures to tell what position it is at. The more you move it one way or the other the higher/lower the voltage you'll get out of it, between 0 and 1.8v, with 0.9v being the center value, since 1.8v / 2 = 0.9v

aydinrad · « **Reply #281 on:** May 23, 2020, 10:02:42 PM »

Changing the wiper didn't fix the stick, I'll order a new POT and switch them out.

Ramon2221 · « **Reply #282 on:** May 28, 2020, 12:58:46 AM »

Hello there!

Today I received a smelly controller, and by opening it this was shown:

The burn was so nasty, a cap now lives fused to the plastic shell:

Except from this little detail, the controller was in mint condition.

Here where I live it is difficult to get a new board fast and cheap. So it was time for some ol' 3rd world engineering...

Upon removing all the bloated components (IC, mofets, ++), I managed to provide power to the other regulators by passing 5V to the V+T trace. TP35 checked 3V3, and the controller seems to work nice from USB power now (at least for the few hours I've tested it).

Now if I could make the controller run like this on batteries, I would forgot to order a new board. I tried connecting L1 to the V+T trace, and TP35 checked 3V3, but the controller wouldn't start. Does the blown circuitry provide 5V from the AA to some key section I'm missing? Or maybe some kind of check? I'm curious now...

Thanks again RDC for your board pics & schematics! This is the second time I use them, and they are great. Greetings from South America!

RDC · « **Reply #283 on:** May 28, 2020, 03:49:34 AM »

Welcome.

The V+T rail is really the 3v/B+ rail. When powered from USB it's 3v, then battery pack voltage when run from them, I need to update that schematic a bit. That's all that U1 does, it just knocks the USB 5v down to 3v for U2 and U3 to step up to 3.5v and 3.3v respectively. Those chips have a max input of 6v, better for them to be run from 0.6v to 4v though.

I've only ever removed U1 alone as a test, but know the controller will work from a battery pack if just that chip alone is missing.

That whole Q6/Q7 area is responsible for getting the battery pack voltage onto the 3v/B+ (V+T) rail, so some of that will need to go back in there to get it to work correctly from a battery pack. Then Q8/Q9 is responsible for turning that Q6/Q7 mess on/off so the battery power isn't always connected to the 3v/BAT+ rail, because if it is then U2/U3 are always on.

Ramon2221 · « **Reply #284 on:** May 29, 2020, 05:26:58 PM »

Thanks for the data RDC.

I finally could power up the controller from batteries. I discovered that I must press the power button within 2 seconds of placing the AAs, otherwise it wouldn't start. And yes, as you said, it has a current of about 60 mA while powered off with the Bat+ connected to the V+T rail.

Good to know about the voltage limits in U2/U3. Now I drop about 1.5V with two diodes in series from the 5V line.

I think I'm happy with the result (the joystick belongs to a friend, if he wants full capabilities he'd have to get a new board).

aydinrad · « **Reply #285 on:** May 31, 2020, 10:59:27 AM »

I've replaced the bad joystick with a known working one and the right stick Y axis is still stuck all the way up. I also put the bad joystick on another controller and it works completely fine. Any advice? It seems the POT is not the issue.

RDC · « **Reply #286 on:** May 31, 2020, 02:44:55 PM »

Measure the voltage on each pin of that POT with respect to ground.

aydinrad · « **Reply #287 on:** May 31, 2020, 03:03:47 PM »

The center lead for the Y-axis is at 0V, the one below it is 1.8V (as it should). The X-axis leads are getting the expected voltages.

RDC · « **Reply #288 on:** May 31, 2020, 03:13:15 PM »

That's just straight up not right unless the center lead is shorted to ground somewhere. Measure the Resistance on the POT leads to ground.

The Top lead of the POT to ground, should get 0 ohms

The Center lead to ground, should get around 4.4k

Bottom lead to ground should measure around 2.5k

If you get 0 on the center lead, there's a short on that line to ground somewhere.

aydinrad · « **Reply #289 on:** May 31, 2020, 03:18:44 PM »

0 on the center lead, so how can I find the culprit of the short?

RDC · « **Reply #290 on:** May 31, 2020, 03:23:43 PM »

There is either a solder bridge at the top and center solder joints, C23 is shorted, somewhere along that trace is shorted to ground, or something on the MCU board has died.

aydinrad · « **Reply #291 on:** May 31, 2020, 03:29:13 PM »

c23 has 0 ohms, does that mean it's shorted?

RDC · « **Reply #292 on:** May 31, 2020, 03:32:16 PM »

If you removed it from the board and checked it, then yes. However, if you tested it on the board then all you're doing is the same thing as checking the center lead to ground and reading the same short.

aydinrad · « **Reply #293 on:** May 31, 2020, 03:49:42 PM »

Oh, my bad. Is it possible to remove it with a soldering iron?

aydinrad · « **Reply #294 on:** May 31, 2020, 04:06:36 PM »

A potential source of short could be the soldering I had to do to reconnect a few test points related to the controller buttons. Here's a photo https://photos.app.goo.gl/y9KUu4KivrVg1wb86. The resistance from the center lead to the wires is in the thousands, leading me to believe it is not the culprit though.

RDC · « **Reply #295 on:** May 31, 2020, 04:38:08 PM »

Looks like there is solder splash on C23 in that pic. Solder splash is just excess solder that lands some place it shouldn't and usually causes shorts. Since you were soldering there just above it at TP67 that could be where it came from.

You can remove C23 with and iron, just drown it in solder so both ends get heated at the same time, but if it just has some splash on there then just knock it off or if it's really stuck on there heat one end then the other so it will open back up.

aydinrad · « **Reply #296 on:** May 31, 2020, 05:06:01 PM »

Oh my gosh, you have a crazy good eye. That fixed it. Thank you so much!

RDC · « **Reply #297 on:** May 31, 2020, 05:40:50 PM »

Welcome, but I didn't catch it in that first pic you posted and it was most likely there also.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #298 on:** June 03, 2020, 05:24:13 PM »

Quote from: aydinrad on May 31, 2020, 10:59:27 AM

I've replaced the bad joystick with a known working one and the right stick Y axis is still stuck all the way up. I also put the bad joystick on another controller and it works completely fine. Any advice? It seems the POT is not the issue.

Hello guys. I have an issue with my RS button, it keeps registering as if presses, I already jumped the ground to multiple ground points on the stick and the button points to TP71 without any luck, also removed c27 and r21 capacities and still the same.

Any suggestion?

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #299 on:** June 03, 2020, 05:26:56 PM »

Quote from: Samuelmorin on June 03, 2020, 05:24:13 PM

Hello guys. I have an issue with my RS button, it keeps registering as if presses, I already jumped the ground to multiple ground points on the stick and the button points to TP71 without any luck, also removed c27 and r21 capacities and still the same.

Any suggestion?

Capacitors*

News:

Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 427041 times)