Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 425502 times)

Qball · « **Reply #420 on:** January 18, 2021, 05:36:59 PM »

Im trying to run jumper wires for the right stick as I botched the replacement and lifted my pads, can anyone help me with where I should be running wires?

Artem_Slowpoke · « **Reply #421 on:** January 22, 2021, 10:54:36 AM »

Quote from: RDC on January 16, 2021, 02:47:04 PM

The center wire needs to be soldered to where those components meet.

Measuring continuity from ground to the antenna center lead will look like a short.

@RDC Thanks a lot!

Apparently, when I soldered it for the first time, I did it not very well. I tried again - now gamepad works just fine.

RDC · « **Reply #422 on:** January 22, 2021, 01:00:25 PM »

@ Qball - Post pics of the damage or specify which pads are damaged.

@ Artem_Slowpoke - Welcome.

Qball · « **Reply #423 on:** January 22, 2021, 01:06:59 PM »

I was able to find the test points and points on the main chip that I needed to solder to and got it working

Qball · « **Reply #424 on:** January 25, 2021, 06:43:45 AM »

Hey, I was wondering where I can find a hall effect sensor for the triggers and there where should I look for the 1.23V's that feeds it as the resistor near it C33 or something like that is gone and took its pads with it.

RDC · « **Reply #425 on:** January 25, 2021, 10:55:41 AM »

It's an A1304ELHLK-T

There is no 1.23v there, it's 3.3v that is turned on/off 125 times a second. That switched voltage comes from U9.

Post a pic of the damage, because your description of the problem is just all over the place.

Qball · « **Reply #426 on:** January 25, 2021, 03:04:52 PM »

Quote from: RDC on January 25, 2021, 10:55:41 AM

It's an A1304ELHLK-T

There is no 1.23v there, it's 3.3v that is turned on/off 125 times a second. That switched voltage comes from U9.

Post a pic of the damage, because your description of the problem is just all over the place.

My bad I was trying to go off memory and it's c37. And where can I find that hall sensor when I google that I get nothing. As for damage

It's a bit ugly now planned on cleaning up upon being done

RDC · « **Reply #427 on:** January 25, 2021, 03:16:07 PM »

Sorry, should be an X instead of K in that part number there - A1304ELHLX-T You can find them at DigiKey, Mouser and the like.

Top connection is Output, connect to TP68
Left connection is Ground
Bottom connection is VCC, connect to TP49

Qball · « **Reply #428 on:** January 25, 2021, 03:27:03 PM »

Quote from: RDC on January 25, 2021, 03:16:07 PM

Sorry, should be an X instead of K in that part number there - A1304ELHLX-T You can find them at DigiKey, Mouser and the like.

Top connection is Output, connect to TP68
Left connection is Ground
Bottom connection is VCC, connect to TP49

Thank you for the help I appreciate it

RDC · « **Reply #429 on:** January 25, 2021, 04:15:25 PM »

Welcome

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #430 on:** January 26, 2021, 03:23:27 AM »

1708 s arcade controller is totally done, for real this time. Expanded to 8 + 4 buttons. PK2 to PK3 jumper so I can use wireless headset with it. And, added the brook wireless adapter to my micro usb extension and played mario kart on nintendo switch wireless. Was amazing.

Ty to RDC for all the help on the 1708 board.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #431 on:** January 26, 2021, 03:47:05 AM »

Also, do u have pinout info for J8? I got both versions of the brook adapter. One is meant for the elite, and worked well, btw. I don't think this version has an independent battery and uses power from the J8, I think. ??

The other one is meant for the x1 controllers with batteries and micro port. Has its own battery power to trick the 1708 board into wired state and then I assume resends the usb commands via bluetooth or whatnot to the other consoles/pc. Pretty ingenious, simple and cheap way to use one controller on any system wirelessly.

Anyways, the SE version for elite is much easier to use and switch systems on. I am sorry if this is off topic. But kinda has a lot to do with the inner workings of the 1708 board vs the elite setup. I was thinking of using the brook SE version on the 1708 boards with some ninjaneering. It basically does the same thing on the elite and seems to force it into a wired state using the elites own power instead of independent battery?

RDC · « **Reply #432 on:** January 26, 2021, 04:20:55 AM »

J8 on the 1708 MCU board has I2C and some I2S stuff on there, also has a 3.3v rail and grounds. The closest for a pinout I have for it is in the 1537 thread, the bottom board schematic, and that's all subject to change as it's not been verified. I never dug much more into that port than that.

Qball · « **Reply #433 on:** January 26, 2021, 02:21:50 PM »

Just curious if anyone knows what c37 is for as after my repair I no longer have it. Controller seems to work fine without it just wanna make sure it's not too important

RDC · « **Reply #434 on:** January 26, 2021, 02:28:40 PM »

It's just a decoupling cap for U11 there. You can leave it off or toss a 1uF back on there.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #435 on:** January 27, 2021, 11:47:44 PM »

Quote from: RDC on January 26, 2021, 04:20:55 AM

J8 on the 1708 MCU board has I2C and some I2S stuff on there, also has a 3.3v rail and grounds. The closest for a pinout I have for it is in the 1537 thread, the bottom board schematic, and that's all subject to change as it's not been verified. I never dug much more into that port than that.

Ty, that's what I needed. I bet it's using the 3.3v. I think I can dig into it from there. Pretty ingenious way to trick a MS controller.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #436 on:** January 29, 2021, 08:59:01 AM »

That j8 is just a mini hdmi port, correct?

I could just use a mini hdmi cable extension.

RDC · « **Reply #437 on:** January 29, 2021, 09:51:39 AM »

Incorrect. It has pretty much the same outer shape as a miniHDMI connector, but that is a 19 pin connector. The one in the XB1 controller is only a 12 pin. I haven't gone looking for a mate for it, so hard to say what it is exactly.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #438 on:** January 29, 2021, 10:13:54 AM »

Interesting, ty. I only need the power and ground to connect. I will investigate further. Maybe just attaching 2 wires to the xbox pcb at that connection (3.3v and ground) and then running it to a similar connector or straight to the brook adapter.

Thank you for the info.

SykoXhadow · « **Reply #439 on:** January 29, 2021, 05:27:52 PM »

Hey guys! So I decided to attempt to install a remapping kit on my controller and royally messed up a few test points. Everything seems to be working fine except my right trigger. Tp67 came off the board. I know it is related to the right trigger. I have seen other issues with the right trigger but it worked fine before this. It seems like the controller thinks the right trigger is being held down. Is there a way to fix this, or am I boned? *I did not mess with the trigger physically at all and no soldering was near any of the components near the trigger*

RDC · « **Reply #440 on:** January 29, 2021, 08:12:09 PM »

If TP67 was pulled off the board then the RT line is now open and it wouldn't work. You can prep and solder to the via that is just below and to the right of it (directly under the T in TP67) and connect that via to U10p2 (U10 pin 2) and you'll get your RT back.

SykoXhadow · « **Reply #441 on:** January 30, 2021, 07:29:40 PM »

I'll give it a shot, thank you for the help! I'm not bad with electronics work but I'm inexperienced with pcb stuff. Practice makes perfect but it can be expensive lol.

beardawg252002 · « **Reply #442 on:** January 31, 2021, 08:06:26 AM »

Quote from: RDC on January 29, 2021, 09:51:39 AM

Incorrect. It has pretty much the same outer shape as a miniHDMI connector, but that is a 19 pin connector. The one in the XB1 controller is only a 12 pin. I haven't gone looking for a mate for it, so hard to say what it is exactly.

Well, not sure what it's really called technically, and I tried looking. Other companies must be able to buy it somewhere cause some 3rd party stuff uses the male side.

Anyways, just went with solving the problem and u can buy the female side on ebay as "xbox expansion port" and the male side is coming from old chat headsets. Then I can just make an expansion port extension cable. Making two of them cause I am making a second arcade controller from x/s controller guts 1914.

Best I can think of without knowing the name of the connection. Thank you.

SykoXhadow · « **Reply #443 on:** January 31, 2021, 09:20:02 AM »

Quote from: RDC on January 29, 2021, 08:12:09 PM

If TP67 was pulled off the board then the RT line is now open and it wouldn't work. You can prep and solder to the via that is just below and to the right of it (directly under the T in TP67) and connect that via to U10p2 (U10 pin 2) and you'll get your RT back.

I did what you said and everything is working again and my "doesn't look hard" mod is complete and working! Thank you for your advice; you are a hero in my eyes lol

Groove Harder · « **Reply #444 on:** February 10, 2021, 05:44:44 AM »

Hi,

Wondering if one of the gurus can help me here? I changed out the right analog stick module on the controller and managed to lift a pad. C

Is it possible to wire in a jumper to a TP spot and if so which TP spot is it?

Cheers!

RDC · « **Reply #445 on:** February 10, 2021, 07:06:52 AM »

That pad does nothing, it'll work fine like that.

Groove Harder · « **Reply #446 on:** February 10, 2021, 07:30:29 AM »

Quote from: RDC on February 10, 2021, 07:06:52 AM

That pad does nothing, it'll work fine like that.

Cheers RDC, I guess I have bad drift on this stick then. I thought it was caused by the missing pad.

Thanks dude!

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #447 on:** February 14, 2021, 11:25:16 AM »

I have a MCU board that shorts out and will not power on via battery or USB when the antenna coax cable is plugged in. When the cable is not plugged in, the controller will power on and work perfectly via USB, when on battery it also powers on but cannot connect since the antenna cable is not plugged in.

I know it is the MCU board because I have used multiple, working power board/antenna cables that are known working. Additionally, the MCU board has no noticeable physical damage to the antenna connector port or anything else.

Any advice to figure this one out is appreciated!

xh0st · « **Reply #448 on:** February 15, 2021, 02:01:21 PM »

Hello, Can you please help me? My xbox one S controller it's not working on battery just on cable. have disassembled the not working and the working controller and swapped the motherboards, the problem it's with the top one with the guide button. i have measured everything and compared and not finding anything different, all resistors and capacitor have the same value. But if I hold down the guide button the controller is working normally when I release the guide button is going off. I have find a temporary solution! I have soldered an resistance between pin TP33/C11 and it's acting like the button is pressed down. The controller is turning on normal and is working, but if you turn of the controller or the console you can't turn on the controller back (to solve this, just disconnect the battery from controller and you are good to go)! Every time you turn off you have to disconnect the battery! Can't figure what's the problem. Can I duplicate the guide button using cathode side of D27 with another button? How to do this D27 and ground on another button?? Please help me! Thanks ?n advance! Hope you understand what I want

RDC · « **Reply #449 on:** February 15, 2021, 02:40:29 PM »

@ Greendaycolt - I haven't seen that issue first hand here, so not sure what is causing that one. Someone on here awhile back had that same issue, and IIRC they never got back with any info about it. There would have to be something jacked up in the Antenna Filter circuit or the actual MCU to cause that kind of issue though.

@ xh0st - Issue is most likely on the Power OK line somewhere. R7, D26 or the trace from J1p9 to R7, D26, Q9. Schematic for the top board is in the first post. When you press Guide, you turn on Q8, which turns on Q9 which turns the controller on. At that point, it should 'latch' Q9 on with the Power OK signal and stay on when you release Guide.

News:

Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 425502 times)